PINK

ROSÉ ROUNDUP

First of all, our apologies for just getting around to our first words on pink wine in the middle of summer. We’re usually better than that but the supply chain issues are still a reality. A lot of the things we are most excited about just got here. There are still some favorites that are ‘on the water’. We would have loved to have them back in mid-May but it didn’t happen. For the locals, you know that summer itself was a little late this year, but it has come upon us with a vengeance. Hence, it is now time to talk pink.

First off a couple of notes. The 2022 vintage in Europe was generally as warm one. While that is a great thing for red wines in most cases, the effect is sometimes the opposite for whites and pinks. Simplistically speaking, when the grapes get ripe, there is plenty of fruit and body to the wines, but a corresponding drop in the acidity levels. For that reason a lot of our past go-tos were showing a little soft in the middle in 2022 and lacking the backbone to have the necessary brightness that makes rosé so appealing.

Don’t get us wrong. We found enough to like, and a few things we really like. But the ‘hit ratio’ was down quite a bit. We have never felt the need to adhere to any particular numeric guidelines. There’s no particular amount of anything we need to have. But what we do have has to measure up to our criteria. If that means fewer wines in a particular category, so be it.

We’ll also make another point about pink wine. Consumers have been given the notion that rosés have to be just-off-the-boat super fresh. That’s not necessarily an axiom in all cases. Many rosés benefit from a few months to a year in the bottle and drink well until age three. They may have a touch less snap, but reveal more of their origins and pick up nuance provided they have sufficient acidity in the going in.

So don’t ignore the 2021s as you fill your pink needs. It was a cooler vintage and the majority of them are in a really good place right now. We know there are cynics that will accuse us of just saying that to sell the older stocks. We were selling pinks long before they became the item they are today and would argue that anyone who really knows their stuff would not say otherwise. That said, we have both as ’22s and ’21s as options, so whatever you choose is fine with us.

Briefly on the subject of very tasty 2021s, here are a few to consider…

Chateau Sainte Roseline Cotes de Provence Rosé Cru Classé Lampe de Meduse 2021-One of the original Cru Classé Provence rosés (there are only 14 that are permitted to carry that designation), this blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, and Syrah is settling in nicely with red berry and red melon fruit and citrus with classic Provenҫal herb nuance, subtle minerality, and a refreshing finishing salinity. Robertparker.com 91 and a special price ($14.99)

Leo Steen Rose of Grenache Sonoma Valley 2021-The Leo Steen Rose of Grenache Sonoma Valley Rose Ranch 2021 comes from the Rose Vineyard at the base of Sugarloaf not far from Kenwood in Sonoma Valley. Sugarloaf is an extinct volcano and this vineyard, made up mainly of clay laced with lava, has been farmed biodynamically since the 1990s. One of our complaint about domestic rose (besides that there are way to many of them) is that they are often blowsy and alcoholic. Not this one! Steen, a European sommelier in a past life, understands what rosé is about and this Grenache based effort has that euro feel with a bit heartier fruit. Special price $15.99 (was $22) !

Clos Cibonne Rosé Cuvee Speciale des Vignettes 2021– A brilliant and substantial rosé made from old vinte plots of the arcane, ancient grape Tibouren. This can hang with any of those ‘special reserve’ bottlings from Ott and Esclans but with a more textural personality and substance. A 94 point selection from robertparker.com with comments, “…matured in old barrels. It has a delicate, refined bouquet with aromas of spring flowers, garrigue, red berries, tonca bean and iodine as well as delicate oaky hints. Medium to full-bodied, lively and delicate, it has a lively, fine acidity structure and perfectly well-integrated oaky notes. Perfectly ripe, it will offer a broad drinking window…”

Poli Family Ile de Beauté Rosé Nielluc+Sciacca 2021-Corsican grape varieties Neulluccio and Sciaccarellu are still relatively unknown to most folks on this side of the Atlantic, as are the wines of Corsica in general. But this Mediterranean island is perfectly primed for growing crisp rosés with minerality and a haunting salinity from the sea’s influence. Crisp, bright, high-toned and floral, this is a superb pink for food and a cooler-edged choice for aperitif applications. A steal at $10.98 (was $16.99).

Clos Alivu Patrimonio Rosé 2021– Made by the same winemaker as the Poli but from a different estate, this is once again the essence of Corsica…crisp, nervy rosé with flowers, mineral, and salinity reflecting its seaside origins, all augmenting the delicate berry fruit. Made of Niellucciu, which has been genetically linked to Sangiovese, which thrives on the island of Corsica. The naturally low yields result in wines with more freshness and ﬁnesse than those made from its Tuscan cousin. Was 24.98, now $14.98 as we make room for our late shipments of pink wine.

The best of the 2022s:

Saint Damien Gigondas Rosé 2022 Saint Damien Gigondas Rosé 2022– This rosé doesn’t have a long history but this bottling, from one of the absolute top producers in Gigondas is round and ample with a broad palate of red berries and surprising nuance of spice, earth and flowers. A touch rounder than the stunning 2021, this is one of the most complete pinks in the store.

Commanderie de la Bargemone Coteaux d’Aix en Provence Rosé 2022-Typically one of the ‘go-to’ stars of delivering interesting, juicy fruit components, with bright acids and plenty of personality at a really comfortable price, this Bargemone hits all the right notes once again. It may, in fact, be the most engaging versions in recent memory as it reflects the fatter fruit f the vintage and still manages to maintain the necessary lift. The stars of the show are Grenache and Cinsault with Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Sauvignon Blanc in a supporting role. Too easy to drink.

Domaine de Fontsainte Corbières Gris de Gris Rosé 2022– We don’t even remember how long this has been one of the anchors of the rosé section. The 2022 is, as always, a blend of 90% Grenache Gris, 5% Carignan, and 5% Mourvèdre, a saignée rosé made from Grenache Gris. One of the most consistent value pinks on the planet.

Bastide Blanche Bandol Rosé 2022– Bandol is a unique and special category, and the predominance of Mourvedre gives them a kind of Provence with attitude vibe. Sure there’s plenty of red berry at the center but it is augmented with notes of spice, mineral, tonic, and that intriguing earthy/musky note we associate with Mourvedre. There is also Grenache, Cinsault, and white grapes Clairette and Ugni Blanc in the mix. A 92 from robertparker.com.

La Coste Coteaux d’Aix en Provence Rosé 2022-If you were making something to work itself into current market sentiment, this would be a good profile. They make their organic practices into a banner and promote the fact that this is an organic wine. “Organic” and “Provence” will push a lot of buttons but the wine’s round, juicy, outgoing demeanor will win friends. Pretty Grenache-y up front with support from Cinsault and Cabernet Sauvignon, this plays nicely to the crowd.

Chateau Pradeaux Bandol Rosé 2022– Thus far, once again, this is the star of the lineup. Deeper color, redder fruits and all kinds of nuance of earth, spice, wild herbs, and that distinct Mourvedre thing, this is packed with character. The folks here have controlled the property since the French Revolution and work as organically as possible. It’s 50% Mourvedre, 50% Cinsault, 93 from robertparker.com and super tasty.

ROSÉ ROUNDUP

There are those that might think rosé season is over as most people’s definition of summer, Labor Day, draws to a close. Locals know that ‘summer’ weather can appear again anytime through mid November, plus we believe that pink wine has appropriate occasions year round. Also, thanks to the general mess that is logistics, a lot of pink wines didn’t even show up until late June and beyond. Here’s a fresh batch of rosés to consider.

Conterno Nervi Il Rosato Piedmont 2021-A 100% Nebbiolo rosé from arguably the greatest estate in Gattinara now under the direction of iconic vigneron Roberto Conterno, such an intro is bound to raise expectations of this pink wine beyond reasonableness. It has actually stood up to its billing in the context of rosé in our experience. Nebbiolo is renowned for its conveyance of terroir and this salmon colored pink shows a lot of nuance under its crisp, appealing, food oriented red melon/red berry fruit. Bright, juicy, and deceptively complex.

Martinelli Rosé of Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2021– If it’s about sourcing, this deeply colored rosé comes from a saignee (bleeding) of the grapes used for this wineries iconic Pinot Noirs. About as dark as it could be and still qualify as rosé, there’s a bit of a red wine attitude with this one. Ample and weighty, it avoids the pratfall of so many California pinks by being relatively lighter on its feet. A great foil for darker fish, fowl, and whiter meats.

Saint Damien Gigondas Rosé 2021-To be honest, seeing a pink wine bearing the appellation Gigondas was a bit of a surprise (we had never seen one nor did we know the AOC allowed pink wine). That said, what a lovely addition to the lineup. A medium salmon-hued blend of 50% Cinsault, 30% Mourvèdre and 20% Grenache, it’s medium-bodied, with a lovely texture and clear layers of complexity that are somewhat unusual for pink wine. White stone fruits, a little citrus cut and some red melon along with notes of stone and a bit of a tactile mouthfeel, this is something of a house favorite.

Clos Alivu Patrimonio Rosé 2021-Corsican rosés are a bit perplexing. There is controversy even over the origins of the Neillucio graoe that is the lone star here as to whether it is indigenous to Corsica or is some transmutated clone of Sangiovese brought here by the Genoans centuries ago. When they are ‘on’, these rosés can be quite compelling as is this one. This comes from some of the best terroir on the island, 50+ year-old vines on terraced slopes composed of unique calcareous limestone, clay, and schist mix called Petra Bianca with marine influence. Strawberry, red cherry, and some floral and chalk underpinning with a little saline lick to the finish.

Pibarnon Bandol Rosé 2021-This is what Bandol rosé can be and why it is revered among wine geeks. The nose alone wafts complexity with berries, mineral, wild herbs, woodsy notes, and a bit of salinity. The aromas give full measure of what you will experience on the palate with, again, a broad array of nuances vying for attention. It’s almost a little wild but, at the finish, you realize these folks knew exactly what they were doing. A straight forward blend of 65% Mourvedre and 35% Cinsault from a terraced vineyard that faces the Mediterranean, it’s a little more money than your average quaffing pink but worth it.

Pascal et Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Terre de Maimbray Rose 2021 -Reverdy is a name you run across a bit in the Loire Valley and there are many iterations of this family name. Pascal and Nicolas Reverdy work out of the the tiny hamlet of Maimbray nestled in a valley surrounded by chalk hills that are nearly mountain-like in steepness forming right angles with famous neighboring towns Chavignol and Verdigny. The estate is known for white Sancerre of course and has something of a name for their red Sancerres as well. The ‘Terre de Maimbray’ refers to their village terroir with its Kimmeridgeon soils. Organically grown, this is classic Loire rosé with fairly unctuous up front strawberry, melon and pear fruit cutting to a crisp slightly ‘flinty’ finish. If you don’t get to it this year, these actually can develop well over the next couple of years.

FINALLY SOME PINK TALK

Yeah, we’ve talked about supply chain and all of that, but we’ve finally accumulated a lovely crop of 2021 roses. Here are some hightlights…

Mirabeau Cotes de Provence Rosé 2021-One of those made for TV type stories where Stephen and Jeany Cronk move their family from south London to Provence with the goal of establishing a successful winery. The happy ending was the Mirabeau wines, a collection of several roses that have garnered international attention. Domaine Mirabeau is a 20 hectare estate which includes 14 hectares of AOP Côtes de Provence vines plus they have established relationships with other premium growers in the region. This is the delightful entry level effort, a blend of 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache, that captures the delicate nature of Provence rose with delicate but outgoing berry fruit with floral and spice tones.

Mas de Cadenet Cotes de Provence Ste. Victoire Rosé 2021-The key to Provencal rose is expressive fruit that is at the same time delicate. This wine reflects the calcerous soils of the area of Ste. Victoire. Inviting pale pink, nose of both berry and white stone fruits, crisp lift to the finish, this is another complete version of the genre that’s engaging but supremely light on its feet. A blend of 45% Grenache, 45% Cinsault, and 10% Syrah.

Clos Cibonne Cotes de Provence Rosé Tentations 2021-A new (to us) version from this long time favorite Clos Cibonne whose rose based on the rare Tibouren grape is a consistent favorite around here. That botting is, like Domaine Tempier (in quality not necessarily style), is now in the $40+ range (well worth it we might add), making this more ‘popularly price’ effort a welcome addition. While featuring younger vined Tibouren (15%), Tentations also has 50% Grenache, 20% Cinsault and 15% Syrah in the mix grown by farmers with whom the Deforges family has long-standing relationships, working in prime spots in the villages of La Crau and Carqueiranne. Bottled with a screw cap, this is a fresh, delicate, tasty rose where the flavor range is expanded a bit by the mineral/earthy Tibouren. Very food friendly and also vegan friendly.

Cavalchina Bardolino Chiaretto Rosato 2021– The Cavalchina folks are shining stars in a region that is largely uninspired. The Chiaretto (key-ar-et-to) is what they call their rosé and it here it is made as a rosé rather than as a ‘bleed’ from the red wine. That helps retain this juicy wine’s its vibrant acidity. Made from the classic grapes of Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara (some as Valpolicella) this is full of lively berry and citrus flavors. This is a winery that has been around since 1948 and Vinous Media’s Ian D’Agata calls them, “…a recognized master in the making of Chiarettos.” This is also the fourth vintage in a row we have carried this delightful, crowd pleasing pink.

Raul Perez Leon Rosado Arrotos del Pendon 2021– Made from 100% Prieto Picudo from very old vines in stony clay at high altitude (800m ASL). The grapes were macerated for two days on the skins before bleeding off, fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, raised on the fine lees for four months in tank, bottled without fining or filtration. The extended maceration would explain the deeper color and give you a clue that this is a ‘pink’ with an attitude more of a red wine. Dark berries, some minerality, more ‘vinuous’ than most roses, if there was a rose on the shelf that could stand up to grilled meats, this is it. Distinctive and delicious.

Commanderie de la Bargemone Coteaux d’Aix en Provence Rosé 2021-Bargemone is another label that has been with us for many seasons, and the 2021 is on point again as one of the best values from this region. Definitely more of a red berry feel to the profile here, a bit more midpalate weight (as pinks go) and . Older vines (30 year average) and a different mix of grapes (40% Grenache, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cinsault…Cabernet not a common ingredient around these parts). Organic farming here, this one shows dark berries and yellow melon, a little spice, pepper, and florality in the nose and always a really palatable price.

‘ROSE ALL DAY’

Our apologies for rolling this out in ‘fall’. Our intent was to post this a couple of months ago but upgrades to our site, during which we couldn’t update this section, took longer than expected. Locals know that we’re still due for some warmer streaks now through November, plus we believe pink wines have applications all year long. This will likely be our last word on the subject until 2022. The 2020s turned out better than we initially expected to boot. Enjoy.

CORNE LOUPE TAVEL 2020-Classic Tavel with the deeper red/orange hue that tells to it’s a little fuller-bodied and can stand up to a wider range of dishes. The terroir here is strewn with rocks like Chateauneuf and Grenache is the driver (60%) along with 15% Cinsault, 10% Syrah and the remaining 15% is a mix of Mourvèdre, Clairette (a white grape), and Carignan. Red berries, a certain ‘red-winey’ undercurrent, some hints of stony minerality, there are a few more ‘base notes’ to the flavor profile than your typical pink and, of course, it’s bone dry.

Family-owned, starting with 3 hectares in 1966, the estate now covers some 45 hectares in three different appellations, Tavel, Lirac and Cotes du Rhone. The wine comes from a famous sub-parcel called the Plateau de Vallongue, located between the Tavel and Lirac AOC’s. Corne-Loup’s Tavel is a blend of all three soil types found in the Tavel AOC: the flat white stones of the Vestides hamlet, the ‘galets roulés’ pebbles of Vallongue (similar to CDP), and the sandy, stony soil of the Olivet hamlet. The name comes from this side of the Tavel village. In olden times, someone would blow the horn (“corne”) in order to warn others of a sighting of a wolf (“loup”) coming into town. An excellent value for a Tavel.

FONTENIL LUBERON ROSE 2020-A relatively new incarnation from a winery we have worked with for at least two decades, including at least one wine-of-the-month selection under our previous format. Certified organic, this wine comes from the bases of Mount Luberon in the southeastern corner of the Rhone. The grapes are mainly Grenache (50%) with Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvedre filling out the blend. There’s a high toned feel on the palate that would almost give you the impression that there was something white (like Rolle) in the mix, but there isn’t. The flavors hint at yellow melon, red berries, and wild fine herb. Bright and refreshing, light on its feet yet deceptively flavorful, this is both tasty and ‘cost effective’ at $14.98.

DOMAINE BART MARSANNAY ROSE 2020-We won’t get into the whole story about how Bart is one of the descendents of the historic Claire Dau family in Burgundy. Suffice it to say they are quickly becoming one of our favorites in the region for compelling efforts at very attractive prices. The Domaine Bart Marsannay Rose 2020 is 100% Pinot Noir and a very attractive mouthful of pink wine. Deceptive weight atop plenty of fresh acidity, your flavor profile is a cornucopia of fresh red berries and finely woven in streaks of delicate minerality. Last year’s was a favorite among our extensive pink lineup and this one is right there again.

DOMAINE DE SEGRIES TAVEL ROSE 2020-Another day, another Tavel? Heck, why not? This is one of the few places in France where the appellation is based around pink wine and there’s a reason for that. The typical Tavel has a few more base notes to the flavor profile and a little deeper color than your average rose, and the best examples have a certain palate authority that gives them broader applications food-wise. Many, like this one, seem to ‘want’ to be red.

A quick history, owner Henri de Lanzac (cousin of the Delorme family of Domaine de la Mordorée) purchased Chateau de Segries in 1994 from Count Henri de Regis, the founder of the Lirac AOC. The Tavel Rose is a blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, 10% Clairette, and 10% Syrah from vine averaging 60 years of age. This is made from a saignee (bleeding) of juice from the red wines. Mainly strawberry fruit with flecks of white stone fruit and blood orange, more base notes than your average Tavel and more weight on the palate as roses go.

Josh Reynolds of Vinous has this to say, “Lurid orange-pink. Mineral-accented aromas of ripe tangerine, cherry and pungent flowers, plus a suggestion of succulent herbs. Chewy and energetic on the palate, offering concentrated bitter cherry, peach and blood orange flavors and a subtle lavender flourish. Finishes very long and focused, the lavender note repeating…91 points.”

LA BASTIDE BLANCHE BANDOL ROSE 2020-While Provence has the reputation for pink wine, Bandol provides some of the most complex and compelling examples. Unfortunately, top Bandol roses are typically priced 30-50% higher than you’re standard Provencal pink. That’s the beauty of Bastide Blanche. This gives you real Bandol character for a price more in line with Rhone and Provence pinks. This estate dates back to 1972, and the blend here is Mourvedre first with Grenache and Cinsault, and white varietals Clairette and Ugni Blanc giving this pink a little lift and snap in the back end.

This is one with notes by Vinous’ Josh Raynolds, “Limpid orange-pink. Expressive red berry, blood orange and pit fruit aromas are accompanied by building mineral and floral nuances. Taut and energetic in the mouth, offering sappy strawberry, orange zest and lavender flavors braced by a spine of chalky minerality. Finishes silky and impressively long, with repeating mineral and floral notes…92 points.” In other words, bargain Bandol.

DOMAINE LES PALLIERES AU PETIT BONHEUR LES PALLIERES GIGONDAS ROSE 2020-Even though this estate can trace its history back some 500 years, the relevant story started around 2007 when the Brunerl brother of Vieux Telegraph and importer Kermit Lynch bought this property. This rose bottling only goes back a few vintages. It is lighter colored, something of a pale salmon, and lighter on its feet that you might expect from property that produces such beefy reds.

The blend is 33% Grenache, 33% Clairette, and 33% Cinsault, and the high percentage of white juice responsible for this wine’s delicate appearance and unique floral profile. The flavors centers on cherry, though think more Raniers than Bing, with some higher toned spicy notes, the wine achieved an AOC Gigondas status for this vintage (apparently the blend and status varies yearly).

GROS NORE BANDOL ROSE 2020-Yes, Domaine Tempier has established itself as the premier player with Bandol rose. But not far behind, and for considerably less d’argent (money), is Gros Nore. Alain Pascal, a former boxer, farms 16 hectare in a practicing organic method. The estate used to sell fruit to Domaine Ott and Chateau Pibarnon, but he started bottling his own produce in 1997.

The blend here is 54% Mourvèdre, 25% Cinsault, 19% Grenache, and 2% Clairette from vines averaging 30 years old. It starts with the familiar musky strawberry nose and flavor note of Mourvedre grown in Bandol and kicks off from there with blood orange, yellow stone fruits, and floral notes adding complexity. This is ‘big kid’ rose with more weight and palate authority, this has scored 92 points from Vinous in 2016, 2017, and 2019 (no review on 2018). For whatever reason, again with reference to Tempier, this 2020 feels even a touch more successful in the glass than several very engaging versions we’ve had previously. A more serious pink.

PINK II: ROSE REPORT

Truth be told, I wasn’t enthusiastic about 2020 as a rose vintage early on. Somehow they didn’t seem to possess the meat or the moxie of the better vintages. As time has passed, however, they have come together and gained depth beyond expectations.

The tariffs caused things to got off to a late start on imported rosés, and the subsequent shipping backlog has delayed arrivals even further not only to us, but to the reviewers as well. So there aren’t a lot of notes out there right now on pink wines, but we suspect they’ll be along. But we found plenty of tasty things to present so enjoy…

Chateau de Pampelonne Cotes de Provence 2020-We’ve had the Cotes de Provence in the lineup several times over the last couple of decades. It is the exemplary version of Provence rose, bright, fresh, versatile and well priced (that last one is particularly relevant). This vineyard, with a view of the Mediterranean, was first planted after World War I and the estate dates back to the mid-1800s. The blend here is 40% Grenache, 30% Cinsualt, 20% Syrah and 10% the unique, historic grape Tibouren.

Maybe it was just a good day, but this one struck us as one of the more engaging efforts from this historic chateau. The traditional red berry fruit is the central theme but floral notes, orange, and a little salinity all make their presence felt in the bright, appealing blend. A crowd-pleasing choice for under $20.

La Remise de Morderee Vin de France 2020 – We’ve got our Mordoree two ways this time around. The La Remise de Mordoree Rose 2020 has that classic Mordoree style but a different profile because of the unusual combination of grapes here, 40% Grenache, 30% Marselan (Marselan is a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache), and 30% Merlot. That is also why it is labelled ‘vin de France’ as some of the grapes aren’t ‘recognized’ for the appellation. In any case, it is a perfectly delightful pink wine, the unique varietals giving the wine a bit more drive to play against some lighter meat dishes (though it’s perfectly fine as an aperitif), and the $15 fare giving you a rather modest entry fee into the highly respected wines of Mordoree.

It’s from 20-year-old vines planted in sand with some clay and, for the record, hand-harvested, destemmed, direct pressed and estate-bottled. Red berries, maybe a little blood orange, some peppery notes, and a lifted, citrusy finish make for an interesting ‘value’ entrant from a top house.

Domaine de la Morderee Cotes-du-Rhone Rose La Dame Rousse 2020-Always a favorite around here, we select different offerings from among their roses every year but there is always Mordoree on the shelf. The Dame Rousse Cotes du Rhone is the traditional ‘workhorse’ of their rose lineup (they make five) and not far behind their Tavel qualitatively and in under $20 as well (the Tavels are $35-45 these days). Grenache leads the blend at 40% with the rest 35% Syrah, 15% Cinsault, 5% Carignan, and 5% Mourvedre farmed organically and harvested from a variety of terroirs.

A little more weight and density here, with strawberry and red melon the main thrust of the flavors with blood orange, floral aromas, savory herbs and some mineral notes. While this is a great producer on several levels, their pinks are definitely ‘blue chips’ of the category.

Bonny Doon Vineyard Vin Gris de Cigare 2020– We have tasted and sold many vintages of this over the years, but this one struck us as a cut above many of the recent renditions. The blend, from five different Central Coast AVAs, seems scattered but the wine is anything but. The mix is 71% Grenache, 11% Cinsault, 5% Clairette, 5% Grenache Blanc, 4% Mourvedre, and 4% Vermentino and the interplay of this wide varietal range presents juxtaposing impressions of berries, white stone fruit, and citrus with accents of savory spice. This is California rose with a definite French accent that comes together in an appealing way, with an engaging juicy core and snappy highlights. A high point in this series, it shows Randall Grahm still takes the project seriously.

Unlike a lot of Euro pinks that were, until recently, stuck on boats, this one has a nice review from Josh Reynolds at Vinous, “Light, shimmering orange. Fresh red berry and citrus fruit aromas are complemented by suggestions of candied rose and pungent herbs. Silky and open-knit, showing good depth to the raspberry, cherry and bitter orange pith flavors. Tightens up slowly on a long, spice-inflected finish that leaves a gently sweet red fruit note behind…90 points.”

Domaine La Roncalier Tavel Rose 2020– Typically one of the better values among the now trendy Tavels, the 2020 La Rocaliere is a great representation of the concentrated, punchy style that caused people to take notice of it in the first place. The estate, which dates back to 1995 owns 20 ha in both Tavel and Lirac. The Tavel holdings traverse three different terroirs, those differences adding complexity to the blend of 60% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, and 10% Syrah.

One of the deeper colored ‘pinks’ on the shelf (leaning towards ruby), the visual gives you notice that this will be a more substantial rose in the glass. Weighty and fresh at the same time, there’s abundant cherry and strawberry fruit laced with a stony minerality and violet notes.

Los Arrotos del Pendon Leon 2020– Yeah, we know we have complained that it seems everybody is trying to get into the action with rose. But when someone as accomplished as Raul Perez does it, you have to pay attention. Of course, it is a rose born of Raul’s singular vision. It’s from 100% Prieto Picudo from very old vines in stony clay at high-altitude (over 2500 ft above seal level). Macerated for two days on the skins before bleeding off, fermented with only indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, raised on the fine lees for four months in tank, then bottled without fining or filtration, it’s the kind of outside-the-box creation one expects from Perez.

So where’s Leon? Everywhere, it seems. It’s a huge area that stretches across northwestern Spain from Rioja to the Portuguese border and most of the way from Madrid to the north and includes Ribera del Duero and Toro. So it’s anybody’s guess where Raul found this vineyard of old Prieto Picudo. Preito Picudo is indigenous to the region and relatively rare and yields darkly colored reds.

This wine itself is reminiscent of a wine we sold years ago from Australia from Charles Melton. It is unapologetically dark rose, probably better described as ‘light red’ rather than ‘pink’. It has a rich center and weighty feel for a rosé but there is sneaky, well-embedded acidity to give it the necessary lift. This wants to be red wine and the flavors are more vinous than most in the category, yet the texture is smooth and slippery. Dark melon, mulberry, restrained minerality and a hint of wild herb, this is a substantial and delicious addition to the lineup this year. Of course we have come to expect that sort of thing from Raul.

ROSÉ: SORRY WE’RE LATE

We usually jump on the rosé wagon earlier in the game but physically getting the juice here was quite the challenge this time around thanks to the trifecta of tariffs, COVID related issues, and now shipping bottlenecks because there aren’t enough containers to use, boats to load, or people to unload them. The 2020s have an ease about them that should win them many friends. The hit ratio is a little lower in 2020 but there are many good things to be had. These just in…

Domaine de la Solitude Cotes Du Rhone Rosé 2020 -The Cinsault-heavy blend of 50% Cinsault, 40% Grenache, and 10% Syrah yields a beautiful pale salmon pink color and a certain delicacy to the overall personality. Floral notes, strawberry, a touch of earth and citrus (pink grapefruit) make this a bright, refreshing quaff. AN outstanding value as well at $12.98.

Tardieu-Laurent Tavel Rosé Vieilles Vignes 2020 -From one of our favorite Rhone producers, this is the first time we have seen the Tavel. As to the juice itself, this could easily be someone’s ‘house rose’ for its versatility and reasonable fare. The color is an inviting salmon pink, and nose expresses strawberry and some blood orange along with playful minerality and florality. It is seamless and broad across the palate with precise acidity giving everything a lift. Texturally complete, this has the presence to play with appropriate, fairly serious dishes (salmon, pork, poultry), but has some spice and nuance that give it the kind of personality to be consumed alone as well. In an area like Tavel that has a reputation that allows vintners here to charge a bit of a premium, this particular effort from an acknowledged master in the Rhone is actually rather a smart value as well at $19.98.

Chateau Sainte Marguerite Rosé Cotes de Provence Cru Classé 2020 -Our first dance with this one (we’ve sold a different bottling) but it is important to note it is one of the Cru Classes, a designation limited to only 18 producers. Grenache plays the lead here with Cinsault and Syrah, and this pink shows a softer middle of bright berries with that little bit of a musky edge that is one of the highlights of these French rosés. Like all rosés from this part of the world it works with a wide range of cuisines, and they make a point of the fact that they are Certified Organic and Vegan.

Cavalchina Bardolino Chiaretto Rosato 2020– Cavalchina has been on our shelves in various colors over the years…red, white, and pink. They are a quality producer in the Veneto that makes consistently exciting wines in a place that, by and large, is mainly seen as the source of mass marketed, innocuous efforts from wine ‘factories’ destined for red-checkered tablecloth eateries…Bardolino. The Cavalchina folks are shining stars in a region that is largely uninspired. The Chiaretto (key-ar-et-to) is what they call their rosé and it here it is made as a rosé rater than as a ‘bleed’ from the red wine to retain its vibrant acidity. Made from the classic grapes of Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara (some as Valpolicella) this is full of lively berry and citrus flavors. This is a winery that has been around since 1948 and Vinous Media’s Ian D’Agata calls them, “…a recognized master in the making of Chiarettos.”

ROSE TIME: THE ‘LATE’ SHOW

We are now in the throes of summer and there are still a lot of boats that haven’t landed as yet. But we are pretty happy with what we do have and feel our lineup going forward is as good as it has been in any recent season. The notable exception is some of the stalwarts from Kermit Lynch that we have carried for years. To their credit, Kermit was one of the first companies to shut down to protect employees when the pandemic started in earnest and have been the most cautious in getting back to ‘normal’, whatever that is these days. This will likely be our last ‘comprehensive’ report but you never know.

Tibouren Rosé Cotes de Provence 2019-This rose is produced by the cooperative Vignobles du Ramatuelle, a group comprised of 120 growers in Provence, to the specifications of the American importer. Produced from grapes from ten different parcels across Provence, the blend here is 85% Tibouren, 12% Grenache and 3% Syrah. So what’s Tibouren? Briefly, it is a grape variety largely associated with Provence these days that was introduced by Greek settlers to the region a very long time ago. It’s origins are beleived to be Greece or possibly even the Middle East. It isn’t widely planted because it is kind of fussy and yields vary. You rarely see varietally labelled bottlings but the importer definitely had this in mind.

As roses go, this isn’t one to serve casual wine drinkers. It’s quite tasty but rather ‘geeky’ stuff. The color is more of a copper/salmon, the fruit flavors lean more apricot and orange than berries, there is a savory spice note and a soily undercurrent. Again this one comes alive with food where it has something solid to play off of. Definitely not grandma’s rose but an intriguing choice for the adventurous palate.

Commanderie de Peyrassol Cotes de Provence Rosé 2019– This house is one of the more highly reputed in the region, this partcular bottling being “Cinsault, Syrah and Grenache make a balanced trio full of fruity flavors, nicely sharpened with a touch of Mourvèdre.” They go to the trouble of harvesting at night to protect the freshness of the fruit and get it into stainless steel right after destemming. The color is a very light salmon leaning a little orange and the flavors here are a bright, lively mix of tropical fruits and citrus (more orange than anything) with expressive floral notes. Tasting it one might have guessed there were some white grapes in the mix but that was not the case. A delicate but engaging offering.

Chateau Peyrassol Cotes de Provence Rosé 2019– This is the ‘reserve’ bottling for Peyrassol sourced from 35 year-old-vines on the property. The ‘main characters’ are Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah, but the ‘wild card’ in the “Chateau” bottling is Tibouren, the ancient and regal Provencal grape. Again this has more of a ‘white wine’ texture though there is more red fruit character (strawberry) to go along with the blood orange, a little more palate density and more perceptible dusty minerality. A ‘classic’ Provencal pink.

La Mordoree Cotes du Rhone Rosé La Dame Rousse 2019 – This house has been a favorite around here for a long time, and the 2019 is a top effort in recent memory. A denser, darker, more ‘red winey’ Rose, the mix here is 40% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 15% Cinsault, 5% Carignan, and 5% Mourvèdre of grapes that were grown organically, harvested by hand, and destemmed. This is a heartier pink, the deep rose color an indicator of more palate weight and earthier undercurrents. One of the few pinks with any press thus far, Jeb Dunnuck gave this one a 92 with comments, “…elegance and purity as well as complexity. Giving up notions of ripe strawberries, cherry blossoms, white flowers, and a kiss of minerality, it’s a beautifully textured, medium to full-bodied, incredibly balanced effort that actually has a touch more richness than the Tavel, although both are rich, textured rosés geared for the table.”

Chateau de Segries Tavel Rosé 2019-We have played the Segries card a few times over the years but don’t recall a better one than this. Deep color again, ‘red wininess’, denser texture, evident Tavel minerality, this is one of the more authoritative pinks on the shelf. Produced via saignee from 50% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, 10% Syrah, and 10% Clairette (a white grape) from vines averaging 60 years of age, this is a fairly substantial rose that boasts freshness but also weight as pink wines go. It caught the attention of Vinous’ Josh Raynolds, who handed it a 91, with comments, “Deep orange-pink. Powerful aromas of ripe red berries, cherry, blood orange and nectarine, plus a hint of lavender emerging in the background. Palate-staining raspberry, bitter cherry and tangerine flavors develop a sweetening touch of honey. Chewy and expansive on the persistent finish, which repeats the pit fruit and floral notes.” It’s a ‘fave’ around our house and even stands up to meat. A great effort for the price, particularly among Tavels.

La Bastide Blanche Bandol Rosé 2019– One of the best buys you will find for a Bandol as well as a brighter, more forward example of a genre that is a little bit of an acquired taste because it is based on Mourvedre, a notoriously fussy grape. It does well in these limestone soils with plenty of sunshine and, because it ripens well here, offers of a more forward, charming version of the grape. Low yields and organic farming play a part in the process. In this version the red berry and blood orange fruit are more forward with the underlying minerality, garrigue notes and seaside salinity playing subtle supporting roles. This is a great introduction to Bandol because it delivers the true character of the appellation without extremes. Another superb food choice but it’s also a Bandol you can just haul off and drink.

Cavalchina Bardolino Chiaretto 2019-Cavalchina has been on our shelves in various colors over the years…red, white, and pink. They are a quality producer in the Veneto that makes consistently exciting wines in a place that, by and large, is mainly seen as the source of mass marketed, innocuous efforts from wine ‘factories’ destined for red-checkered tablecloth eateries…Bardolino. The Cavalchina folks are shining stars in a region that is largely uninspired. The Chiaretto (key-ar-et-to) is what they call their rosé. This is a winery that has been around since 1948 and Vinous Media’s Ian D’Agata calls them, “…a recognized master in the making of Chiarettos.”

Last year’s was a serious hit and the 2019 is even better. A blend of 60% Corvina, 35% Rondinella, and 5% Molinara, it is a lively, bright display of berry, red melon, and citrus, light in color and light on its feet with the requisite touches of fresh wild herbs and finishing salinity. As you might expect, it is particularly food friendly.

ROSE TIME: PART TWO

As we said last time, the whole rosé program got started late this year thanks to dual mitigating factors, the early threat of tariffs which interrupted the normal flow of goods (importers did not want to be caught with stuff ‘on the water’ they couldn’t divert) and COVID-19 which screwed up everything. Things are finally starting to dribble in and, thus far, we really like 2019 as a vintage for pinks. Here are some new ones to consider.

The Leoube Rosé Cotes De Provence 2019 has been a steady presence on our shelves for six of the last seven vintages since we first found it, and this edition is particularly appealing. To refresh the memory, the folks that bought the Chateau in 1997 made their money in organic groceries. So their attitude towards organic farming is pretty much ‘hard wired’. Also the property is located next to one of the top vineyard sites for the famous Domaine Ott. As a matter of fact, Jean-Jacques Ott of Domaine Ott wanted to sell his property (and did) but still wanted to stay in the business. The new owners of Leoube just so happened to be looking for a winemaker at the exact same moment. So, Jean-Jacques and his son Romain headed over to Leoube after selling their eponymous property to Roederer Champagne and boom, the magie began.

Now, father and son Ott work the vineyards and make the wine at their next-door neighbor’s place. A crisper and more delicate style with a pale salmon hue, it is mainly Grenache and Cinsault with bits of Syrah and Mourvedre. Light, dry, fresh, berries, apricot, and citrus, and a touch of salinity in the finish, it is quite civilized and feels even a bit more fruit driven and weightier than last year’s very successful model.

Based on our tastings of a wide range of 2019s, we had great expectations for the ‘house favorite’ Leoube. At the same time we were presented the Proprieta Sperino Rosato Piemonte Rosa del Rosa 2019 that we knew nothing about (we had seen the estate before from another small supplier but not this rosé). A unique blend (Nebbiolo and Vespolina) from an area certainly not famous for pink wine ( the Castello quarter of Lessona (Biella) in the foothills of the North Piedmont Alps), it made quite the impression even alongside a very engaging version of a perennial favorite. .

It turned out to be something of a revelation with bright yet piquant red melon and berry fruit, something of a ‘mountain’ texture, an entertaining interplay between the fresh, ripe fruit and savory/mineral notes with a little kick of salinity on the finish. Every sip offers a little different twist and it is both delightful and thought provoking. Only a week later, this wine came out on top of a tasting of Italian pinks on Vinous Media.

The review was as good as any sales pitch we could write, “The 2019 Sperino Rosa del Rosa is stunning, opening to reveal depths of ripe peach and strawberry, with hints of cumin, ginger, dried orange, and roses. It floods the palate with silky textures, tugging at the cheeks as zesty acids settle in, then soothing through sweet liquid florals and ripe fruit. The finish is long, showing a hint of fine tannins, yet not austere; instead tactile, perfectly balanced with a hint of savory spice and just begging me to take another sip. This is a blend of Nebbiolo and Vespolina, which is gorgeous right now, but it may even get better with a little time in the cellar. Frankly, it was hard to put the glass down…93 points.”

We are big fans of Bandol rosés, those Mourvedre-based pinks that have a charm all their own. The problem is that a lot of them sell for $30 and up. That definitely drives up the cost of ‘casual’ warm weather quaffing. That made the discovery of the Moulin de la Roque Bandol Rosé 2019 all the more timely. It’s definitely a legit example of the breed with that slightly musky red melon edge to the predominantly red berry fruit and the requisite little bite at the end. In the middle, thanks to the vintage, it’s pretty direct and fruit driven, and definitely plays well at the table. This blend of 60% Mourvedre, 30% Grenache and 10% Cinsault should only become more complex over the coming months. A Wine Enthusiast ’90’ already, very early in the game with comments, ” Attractively structured with a layer of tannins from the Mourvèdre, this wine has bite as well as red-berry acidity. Richness gives the wine weight and makes it an ideal partner at the table.”

The Penya Rosé Vin De Pays Des Cotes Catalanes 2019 is something of a throwback. Dan Kravitz of hand-picked selections is particularly adept at finding value, and you couldn’t ask for more from something that’s under $10. Admittedly location can add to the price without necessarily adding value. Provence is the ‘proven’ source for pink wine, and commends a bit of a premium. On the other side of the country, in Cotes Catalanes in the Roussillon (the ‘other’ South of France), they have distinctive soils and Mediterranean influence, and can do the rose thing as well. This blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah is boisterous and outgoing, sporting cherry, berry and red melon fruit with flecks of savory and a touch of stone. Unlike most things you will find in this price range, the fruit is clean and genuine. Superb value party pink.

IT’S ROSE TIME: PART ONE

Spring is here and summer is right around the corner. Pandemics can screw up a lot of things but most of us can still walk outside, sit under a tree or umbrella (properly distanced, of course), and drink pink. It has been a curious year, pandemic notwithstanding, as the threat of tariffs early on caused the wheels of vinous commerce to grind to a halt until the ‘game plan’ became clear. We would have expected to physically have a larger group of wines by now but they will get here soon enough for the most part, and there are a lot of things we haven’t seen yet because, well, you know.

We have had the opportunity to taste a number of the 2019s and we are generally pleased. Thus far we have seen mainly labels we have been familiar with but we like what we have seen and if we had to get through a season with this kind of small lineup, we’d be all right. For the most part the colors strike us as a little more delicate, the wines have bright fruit and fresh flavors. We’ve seen reviews on a few Southern Hemisphere pinks but there has been little yet on Europe and America. These will definitely hit the spot. Enjoy.

Chateau Routas Rosé Coteaux Varois en Provence 2019– Cinsault is the lead here (nearly half) with Grenache, Syrah, and a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon. Red melon, yellow stone fruits, a touch of earth and a refreshing savory streak (probably from the Cab), with the finish showing a little minerality and a faint kiss of garrigue. Delicate, bright, well done in an old school style and well priced also.

Chateau de Pampelonne Cotes de Provence Rosé 2019–Pampleonne is one that seems to make the cut most yearsbased on performanceand value. Made to specifications for an American importer, it is a single estate bottling made by a cooperative in Saint Tropez. Grenache gives the wine a rounder feel in the end but it is light on its feet and fresh, followed by Cinsault, Syrah, and Tibouren (an ancient varietal). Citrus is the first impression followed by berry and white peach, with a pleasing little tactile note to the finish.

Caves D’Esclans Whispering Angel Cotes de Provence Rosé 2019–Sasha Lichine’s mega-producing winery has a very large footprint in the region. Usually bigger does not mean better in wine, but the consistency here has been laudible. Now that LVMH has a 55% stake we’ll see what happens but they are pretty quality oriented themselves. It starts with the ‘usual suspects’ of Grenache and Cinsault but the inclusion of Rolle (a.k.a. Vermentino) and Tibouren add distinct elements. The high pitched aromatics, palate liveliness, and certain ‘white wine’ flavors like grapefruit are explained by the Vermentino, and acts as an energizer to the more expected melon and peach tones. They are big, but the are good at what they do.

Puech-Haut Coteaux du Languedoc Rosé Argali 2019-Some will find the frosted bottle attractive, others gimmicky. But anything this producer does inside the bottle has to be taken seriously. This is a straight forward 60% Grenache and 40% Cinsault, the color is quite pale and the flavors runs from citrus to strawberry to peach, with a pleasing little kick of garrigue at the end. Far to easy to drink.

Commanderie de la Bargemone Coteaux d’Aix en Provence Rosé 2019–Bargemone is another label that has been with us for many seasons, but we dare say this is one of the most pleasing in memory. Definitely more of a red berry feel to the profile here. Older vines (30 year average) and a broad mix of grapes (the 2017 was 30% Grenache, 28% Syrah, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cinsault, 5% Rolle, 2% Carignan, 2% Counoise). Organic farming here, this one shows dark berries and yellow melon, a little spice and florality in the nose and a really palatable price.

Clos Alivu Patrimonio Rosé 2019–If you are looking for something a little different, get thee to Corsica. Corsican pinks are a breed unto themselves. They can be a little misdirected, sometimes curious, but one year the best rose we had in the store was Corsican. Thrill of victory, agony of defeat, you bet. Anyway when they hit they are not only quite tasty but maybe a little cerebral. The grape here is Neillucio, from 50 year old vines on terraced vineyards. The flavors run from strawberry to watermelon, and maybe a touch of yellow pit fruit, plus a distinct-but-subtle background of salty minerality that puts a different spin on it.

RANDOM ROSÉ RANT PLUS A KILLER PINK

The other night, a decision had to be made about what to serve with a couple disparate of dishes that could play well with both. A white simply would get overwhelmed but a red was a little too heavy. The answer, which worked beautifully, was a pink wine. Rosé in the winter? Why not? Granted winters here in Southern California aren’t necessarily all that severe. This year, so far, it has been a particularly mild one. But, consistent with our message, pink wines can play all year long as aperitifs or perfect solutions with a variety of dishes, even ones consumed indoors!

The industry itself has done a marginal job handling the explosion in popularity of rosé wines. Far too many folks have gotten involved in rose production with no experience and have littered the landscape with pinks that are flabby, alcoholic, and not particularly distinctive. The ‘good guys’, the proven performers responsible for initiating the craze in the first place, are still doing great work and it is those that we focus on.

Cavalchina has been on our shelves in various colors over the years…red, white, and pink. They are a quality producer in the Veneto that makes consistently exciting wines in a place that, by and large, is mainly seen as the source of mass marketed, innocuous efforts from wine ‘factories’ destined for red-checkered tablecloth eateries…Bardolino. The Cavalchina folks are shining stars in a region that is largely uninspired. The Chiaretto (key-ar-et-to)is what they call their rosé. This is a winery that has been around since 1948 and Vinous Media’s Ian D’Agata calls them, “…a recognized master in the making of Chiarettos.”

A brief word about pinks in general. The industry as a whole has created an image in the public’s mid that buying rosé is like buying fish. You want it as fresh as possible. That is true to a point. You won’t necessarily get the best experience out of a 5 or six year old pink. But some rosés aren’t even released until they are a year old, and others (like Tavel, for example) don’t hit their full potential until year two and cruise into year three.

In fact, a lot pinks hit the shelves these days too early, before they are really settled in. We are keenly aware of that as we have been tasting 2019s since mid-January. Our point is that this offering isn’t about ‘unloading’ one of the best rosé values on the floor like yesterday’s bread. We simply had so much other stuff come our way over the last six moths that we never got around to doing this piece. This little beauty has enough verve, texture, and subtle minerality to waltz through the next summer and beyond. It’s a little less ‘fizzy’ than it was last spring, but we don’t see that as an issue. All of the fresh citrus/melon flavors and mineral/saline augments are perfectly on point.

D’Agata’s narrative explains a lot about the technical aspects of the Cavalchina Bardolino Chiaretto 2018, besides providing a rather impressive score for a pink wine, “Straw-pink with a copper tinge. The very clean nose offers fresh pomegranate, apple, pear and herb aromas. Then also clean and fresh in the mouth, with some hints of residual sweetness enrobing the melon and pink grapefruit flavors. A lovely Rosé from a recognized master in the making of Chiarettos. Made with a blend of (native varietals) 55% Corvina, 35% Rondinella and 10% Molinara; the presence of the latter grape is absolutely key in explaining this wine’s freshness and saline bent (plus the fact that many of this estate’s vines are extremely old, planted back in 1911)…93 points.”

Our little meal last week reaffirmed the idea that it is great to have some pink wine around all the time. For aperitif, and a great many food ‘applications,’ this outstanding pink makes a lot of sense year round. It belongs in everyone’s working wine matrix. The price ($14.98), given the performance, only enhances the proposition. We apologize for getting to this one a little later than we wanted. But, trust us, this is a value gem and a bright, stylish ‘winner’ who’s ‘expiration date’ is still quite a ways off.