As we said last time, the whole rosé program got started late this year thanks to dual mitigating factors, the early threat of tariffs which interrupted the normal flow of goods (importers did not want to be caught with stuff ‘on the water’ they couldn’t divert) and COVID-19 which screwed up everything. Things are finally starting to dribble in and, thus far, we really like 2019 as a vintage for pinks. Here are some new ones to consider.
The Leoube Rosé Cotes De Provence 2019 has been a steady presence on our shelves for six of the last seven vintages since we first found it, and this edition is particularly appealing. To refresh the memory, the folks that bought the Chateau in 1997 made their money in organic groceries. So their attitude towards organic farming is pretty much ‘hard wired’. Also the property is located next to one of the top vineyard sites for the famous Domaine Ott. As a matter of fact, Jean-Jacques Ott of Domaine Ott wanted to sell his property (and did) but still wanted to stay in the business. The new owners of Leoube just so happened to be looking for a winemaker at the exact same moment. So, Jean-Jacques and his son Romain headed over to Leoube after selling their eponymous property to Roederer Champagne and boom, the magie began.
Now, father and son Ott work the vineyards and make the wine at their next-door neighbor’s place. A crisper and more delicate style with a pale salmon hue, it is mainly Grenache and Cinsault with bits of Syrah and Mourvedre. Light, dry, fresh, berries, apricot, and citrus, and a touch of salinity in the finish, it is quite civilized and feels even a bit more fruit driven and weightier than last year’s very successful model.
Based on our tastings of a wide range of 2019s, we had great expectations for the ‘house favorite’ Leoube. At the same time we were presented the Proprieta Sperino Rosato Piemonte Rosa del Rosa 2019 that we knew nothing about (we had seen the estate before from another small supplier but not this rosé). A unique blend (Nebbiolo and Vespolina) from an area certainly not famous for pink wine ( the Castello quarter of Lessona (Biella) in the foothills of the North Piedmont Alps), it made quite the impression even alongside a very engaging version of a perennial favorite. .
It turned out to be something of a revelation with bright yet piquant red melon and berry fruit, something of a ‘mountain’ texture, an entertaining interplay between the fresh, ripe fruit and savory/mineral notes with a little kick of salinity on the finish. Every sip offers a little different twist and it is both delightful and thought provoking. Only a week later, this wine came out on top of a tasting of Italian pinks on Vinous Media.
The review was as good as any sales pitch we could write, “The 2019 Sperino Rosa del Rosa is stunning, opening to reveal depths of ripe peach and strawberry, with hints of cumin, ginger, dried orange, and roses. It floods the palate with silky textures, tugging at the cheeks as zesty acids settle in, then soothing through sweet liquid florals and ripe fruit. The finish is long, showing a hint of fine tannins, yet not austere; instead tactile, perfectly balanced with a hint of savory spice and just begging me to take another sip. This is a blend of Nebbiolo and Vespolina, which is gorgeous right now, but it may even get better with a little time in the cellar. Frankly, it was hard to put the glass down…93 points.”
We are big fans of Bandol rosés, those Mourvedre-based pinks that have a charm all their own. The problem is that a lot of them sell for $30 and up. That definitely drives up the cost of ‘casual’ warm weather quaffing. That made the discovery of the Moulin de la Roque Bandol Rosé 2019 all the more timely. It’s definitely a legit example of the breed with that slightly musky red melon edge to the predominantly red berry fruit and the requisite little bite at the end. In the middle, thanks to the vintage, it’s pretty direct and fruit driven, and definitely plays well at the table. This blend of 60% Mourvedre, 30% Grenache and 10% Cinsault should only become more complex over the coming months. A Wine Enthusiast ’90’ already, very early in the game with comments, ” Attractively structured with a layer of tannins from the Mourvèdre, this wine has bite as well as red-berry acidity. Richness gives the wine weight and makes it an ideal partner at the table.”
The Penya Rosé Vin De Pays Des Cotes Catalanes 2019 is something of a throwback. Dan Kravitz of hand-picked selections is particularly adept at finding value, and you couldn’t ask for more from something that’s under $10. Admittedly location can add to the price without necessarily adding value. Provence is the ‘proven’ source for pink wine, and commends a bit of a premium. On the other side of the country, in Cotes Catalanes in the Roussillon (the ‘other’ South of France), they have distinctive soils and Mediterranean influence, and can do the rose thing as well. This blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah is boisterous and outgoing, sporting cherry, berry and red melon fruit with flecks of savory and a touch of stone. Unlike most things you will find in this price range, the fruit is clean and genuine. Superb value party pink.