segries

‘ROSE ALL DAY’

Our apologies for rolling this out in ‘fall’. Our intent was to post this a couple of months ago but upgrades to our site, during which we couldn’t update this section, took longer than expected. Locals know that we’re still due for some warmer streaks now through November, plus we believe pink wines have applications all year long. This will likely be our last word on the subject until 2022. The 2020s turned out better than we initially expected to boot. Enjoy.

CORNE LOUPE TAVEL 2020-Classic Tavel with the deeper red/orange hue that tells to it’s a little fuller-bodied and can stand up to a wider range of dishes. The terroir here is strewn with rocks like Chateauneuf and Grenache is the driver (60%) along with 15% Cinsault, 10% Syrah and the remaining 15% is a mix of Mourvèdre, Clairette (a white grape), and Carignan. Red berries, a certain ‘red-winey’ undercurrent, some hints of stony minerality, there are a few more ‘base notes’ to the flavor profile than your typical pink and, of course, it’s bone dry.

Family-owned, starting with 3 hectares in 1966, the estate now covers some 45 hectares in three different appellations, Tavel, Lirac and Cotes du Rhone. The wine comes from a famous sub-parcel called the Plateau de Vallongue, located between the Tavel and Lirac AOC’s. Corne-Loup’s Tavel is a blend of all three soil types found in the Tavel AOC: the flat white stones of the Vestides hamlet, the ‘galets roulés’ pebbles of Vallongue (similar to CDP), and the sandy, stony soil of the Olivet hamlet. The name comes from this side of the Tavel village. In olden times, someone would blow the horn (“corne”) in order to warn others of a sighting of a wolf (“loup”) coming into town. An excellent value for a Tavel.

FONTENIL LUBERON ROSE 2020-A relatively new incarnation from a winery we have worked with for at least two decades, including at least one wine-of-the-month selection under our previous format. Certified organic, this wine comes from the bases of Mount Luberon in the southeastern corner of the Rhone. The grapes are mainly Grenache (50%) with Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvedre filling out the blend. There’s a high toned feel on the palate that would almost give you the impression that there was something white (like Rolle) in the mix, but there isn’t. The flavors hint at yellow melon, red berries, and wild fine herb. Bright and refreshing, light on its feet yet deceptively flavorful, this is both tasty and ‘cost effective’ at $14.98.

DOMAINE BART MARSANNAY ROSE 2020-We won’t get into the whole story about how Bart is one of the descendents of the historic Claire Dau family in Burgundy. Suffice it to say they are quickly becoming one of our favorites in the region for compelling efforts at very attractive prices. The Domaine Bart Marsannay Rose 2020 is 100% Pinot Noir and a very attractive mouthful of pink wine. Deceptive weight atop plenty of fresh acidity, your flavor profile is a cornucopia of fresh red berries and finely woven in streaks of delicate minerality. Last year’s was a favorite among our extensive pink lineup and this one is right there again.

DOMAINE DE SEGRIES TAVEL ROSE 2020-Another day, another Tavel? Heck, why not? This is one of the few places in France where the appellation is based around pink wine and there’s a reason for that. The typical Tavel has a few more base notes to the flavor profile and a little deeper color than your average rose, and the best examples have a certain palate authority that gives them broader applications food-wise. Many, like this one, seem to ‘want’ to be red.

A quick history, owner Henri de Lanzac (cousin of the Delorme family of Domaine de la Mordorée) purchased Chateau de Segries in 1994 from Count Henri de Regis, the founder of the Lirac AOC. The Tavel Rose is a blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, 10% Clairette, and 10% Syrah from vine averaging 60 years of age. This is made from a saignee (bleeding) of juice from the red wines. Mainly strawberry fruit with flecks of white stone fruit and blood orange, more base notes than your average Tavel and more weight on the palate as roses go.

Josh Reynolds of Vinous has this to say, “Lurid orange-pink. Mineral-accented aromas of ripe tangerine, cherry and pungent flowers, plus a suggestion of succulent herbs. Chewy and energetic on the palate, offering concentrated bitter cherry, peach and blood orange flavors and a subtle lavender flourish. Finishes very long and focused, the lavender note repeating…91 points.”

LA BASTIDE BLANCHE BANDOL ROSE 2020-While Provence has the reputation for pink wine, Bandol provides some of the most complex and compelling examples. Unfortunately, top Bandol roses are typically priced 30-50% higher than you’re standard Provencal pink. That’s the beauty of Bastide Blanche. This gives you real Bandol character for a price more in line with Rhone and Provence pinks. This estate dates back to 1972, and the blend here is Mourvedre first with Grenache and Cinsault, and white varietals Clairette and Ugni Blanc giving this pink a little lift and snap in the back end.

This is one with notes by Vinous’ Josh Raynolds, “Limpid orange-pink. Expressive red berry, blood orange and pit fruit aromas are accompanied by building mineral and floral nuances. Taut and energetic in the mouth, offering sappy strawberry, orange zest and lavender flavors braced by a spine of chalky minerality. Finishes silky and impressively long, with repeating mineral and floral notes…92 points.” In other words, bargain Bandol.

DOMAINE LES PALLIERES AU PETIT BONHEUR LES PALLIERES GIGONDAS ROSE 2020-Even though this estate can trace its history back some 500 years, the relevant story started around 2007 when the Brunerl brother of Vieux Telegraph and importer Kermit Lynch bought this property. This rose bottling only goes back a few vintages. It is lighter colored, something of a pale salmon, and lighter on its feet that you might expect from property that produces such beefy reds.

The blend is 33% Grenache, 33% Clairette, and 33% Cinsault, and the high percentage of white juice responsible for this wine’s delicate appearance and unique floral profile. The flavors centers on cherry, though think more Raniers than Bing, with some higher toned spicy notes, the wine achieved an AOC Gigondas status for this vintage (apparently the blend and status varies yearly).

GROS NORE BANDOL ROSE 2020-Yes, Domaine Tempier has established itself as the premier player with Bandol rose. But not far behind, and for considerably less d’argent (money), is Gros Nore. Alain Pascal, a former boxer, farms 16 hectare in a practicing organic method. The estate used to sell fruit to Domaine Ott and Chateau Pibarnon, but he started bottling his own produce in 1997.

The blend here is 54% Mourvèdre, 25% Cinsault, 19% Grenache, and 2% Clairette from vines averaging 30 years old. It starts with the familiar musky strawberry nose and flavor note of Mourvedre grown in Bandol and kicks off from there with blood orange, yellow stone fruits, and floral notes adding complexity. This is ‘big kid’ rose with more weight and palate authority, this has scored 92 points from Vinous in 2016, 2017, and 2019 (no review on 2018). For whatever reason, again with reference to Tempier, this 2020 feels even a touch more successful in the glass than several very engaging versions we’ve had previously. A more serious pink.

ROSE TIME: THE ‘LATE’ SHOW

We are now in the throes of summer and there are still a lot of boats that haven’t landed as yet. But we are pretty happy with what we do have and feel our lineup going forward is as good as it has been in any recent season. The notable exception is some of the stalwarts from Kermit Lynch that we have carried for years. To their credit, Kermit was one of the first companies to shut down to protect employees when the pandemic started in earnest and have been the most cautious in getting back to ‘normal’, whatever that is these days. This will likely be our last ‘comprehensive’ report but you never know.

Tibouren Rosé Cotes de Provence 2019-This rose is produced by the cooperative Vignobles du Ramatuelle, a group comprised of 120 growers in Provence, to the specifications of the American importer. Produced from grapes from ten different parcels across Provence, the blend here is 85% Tibouren, 12% Grenache and 3% Syrah. So what’s Tibouren? Briefly, it is a grape variety largely associated with Provence these days that was introduced by Greek settlers to the region a very long time ago. It’s origins are beleived to be Greece or possibly even the Middle East. It isn’t widely planted because it is kind of fussy and yields vary. You rarely see varietally labelled bottlings but the importer definitely had this in mind.

As roses go, this isn’t one to serve casual wine drinkers. It’s quite tasty but rather ‘geeky’ stuff. The color is more of a copper/salmon, the fruit flavors lean more apricot and orange than berries, there is a savory spice note and a soily undercurrent. Again this one comes alive with food where it has something solid to play off of. Definitely not grandma’s rose but an intriguing choice for the adventurous palate.

Commanderie de Peyrassol Cotes de Provence Rosé 2019– This house is one of the more highly reputed in the region, this partcular bottling being “Cinsault, Syrah and Grenache make a balanced trio full of fruity flavors, nicely sharpened with a touch of Mourvèdre.” They go to the trouble of harvesting at night to protect the freshness of the fruit and get it into stainless steel right after destemming. The color is a very light salmon leaning a little orange and the flavors here are a bright, lively mix of tropical fruits and citrus (more orange than anything) with expressive floral notes. Tasting it one might have guessed there were some white grapes in the mix but that was not the case. A delicate but engaging offering.

Chateau Peyrassol Cotes de Provence Rosé 2019– This is the ‘reserve’ bottling for Peyrassol sourced from 35 year-old-vines on the property. The ‘main characters’ are Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah, but the ‘wild card’ in the “Chateau” bottling is Tibouren, the ancient and regal Provencal grape. Again this has more of a ‘white wine’ texture though there is more red fruit character (strawberry) to go along with the blood orange, a little more palate density and more perceptible dusty minerality. A ‘classic’ Provencal pink.

La Mordoree Cotes du Rhone Rosé La Dame Rousse 2019 – This house has been a favorite around here for a long time, and the 2019 is a top effort in recent memory. A denser, darker, more ‘red winey’ Rose, the mix here is 40% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 15% Cinsault, 5% Carignan, and 5% Mourvèdre of grapes that were grown organically, harvested by hand, and destemmed. This is a heartier pink, the deep rose color an indicator of more palate weight and earthier undercurrents. One of the few pinks with any press thus far, Jeb Dunnuck gave this one a 92 with comments, “…elegance and purity as well as complexity. Giving up notions of ripe strawberries, cherry blossoms, white flowers, and a kiss of minerality, it’s a beautifully textured, medium to full-bodied, incredibly balanced effort that actually has a touch more richness than the Tavel, although both are rich, textured rosés geared for the table.”

Chateau de Segries Tavel Rosé 2019-We have played the Segries card a few times over the years but don’t recall a better one than this. Deep color again, ‘red wininess’, denser texture, evident Tavel minerality, this is one of the more authoritative pinks on the shelf. Produced via saignee from 50% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, 10% Syrah, and 10% Clairette (a white grape) from vines averaging 60 years of age, this is a fairly substantial rose that boasts freshness but also weight as pink wines go. It caught the attention of Vinous’ Josh Raynolds, who handed it a 91, with comments, “Deep orange-pink. Powerful aromas of ripe red berries, cherry, blood orange and nectarine, plus a hint of lavender emerging in the background. Palate-staining raspberry, bitter cherry and tangerine flavors develop a sweetening touch of honey. Chewy and expansive on the persistent finish, which repeats the pit fruit and floral notes.” It’s a ‘fave’ around our house and even stands up to meat. A great effort for the price, particularly among Tavels.

La Bastide Blanche Bandol Rosé 2019– One of the best buys you will find for a Bandol as well as a brighter, more forward example of a genre that is a little bit of an acquired taste because it is based on Mourvedre, a notoriously fussy grape. It does well in these limestone soils with plenty of sunshine and, because it ripens well here, offers of a more forward, charming version of the grape. Low yields and organic farming play a part in the process. In this version the red berry and blood orange fruit are more forward with the underlying minerality, garrigue notes and seaside salinity playing subtle supporting roles. This is a great introduction to Bandol because it delivers the true character of the appellation without extremes. Another superb food choice but it’s also a Bandol you can just haul off and drink.

Cavalchina Bardolino Chiaretto 2019-Cavalchina has been on our shelves in various colors over the years…red, white, and pink. They are a quality producer in the Veneto that makes consistently exciting wines in a place that, by and large, is mainly seen as the source of mass marketed, innocuous efforts from wine ‘factories’ destined for red-checkered tablecloth eateries…Bardolino. The Cavalchina folks are shining stars in a region that is largely uninspired. The Chiaretto (key-ar-et-to) is what they call their rosé. This is a winery that has been around since 1948 and Vinous Media’s Ian D’Agata calls them, “…a recognized master in the making of Chiarettos.”

Last year’s was a serious hit and the 2019 is even better. A blend of 60% Corvina, 35% Rondinella, and 5% Molinara, it is a lively, bright display of berry, red melon, and citrus, light in color and light on its feet with the requisite touches of fresh wild herbs and finishing salinity. As you might expect, it is particularly food friendly.

IN THE PINK, PART TWO: ROSE TIME AGAIN

We spoke our piece last time about the current market for pink wine. In short, it is stronger than ever, but there has been a proliferation of labels well beyond what should have been. In other words, there is a lot more rosé to look at these days, which by definition would give us more things to choose from. That is partially true. There are more good rosés out there, but a much higher percentage of clunkers in the mix because there are a lot of mediocre efforts being made by people who are just trying to participate in the market and many examples being made from places that really haven’t made them before.

All of this just makes our job harder because there is much more pink wine to slog through to find the few gems. But it’s summer, we love pink wine, and the 2017s are generally quite satisfying. So here’s another update on a few more favorites from this year’s crop.

LE PARADOU CÔTES DE PROVENCE ROSÉ 2017– This wine’s performance should be no surprise given the people involved. The Paradou project is a partnership between the brothers Alex and Fred Chaudière of Château Pesquié and importer Eric Solomon. We have been selling Pesquié wines for years and appreciate the honest, terroir driven character that the wines exude. It seems only natural that these folks could create something enjoyable for this label and the Le Paradou Côtes de Provence Rosé 2017 is that wine.

The grapes for this wine come from the more remote center of Provence, a land of lavender fields, olive groves, and wild herbs growing on the hillsides. This is far from the French Riviera and the Cinsault, Grenache and Vermentino (known as Rolle in this part of the world) grapes come from a vineyard at the foot of Sainte Victoire, a peak featured in a number of works by Cezanne. The term ‘Paradou’, while it might sound like some ancient French word for ‘paradise’, actually refers to the old watermills that once dotted the landscape

Each grape plays its part. The Cinsault provides this wine’s delicate fruit flavors reminiscent of raspberries and strawberries, the Grenache its color and spice, and the Vermentino its freshness and acidity plus a hint of white stone fruit in a supporting role. Put it all together and you have one engaging, tasty rosé. Here they do all the right things as the grapes are sustainably farmed, harvested by hand in the early morning, and pressed whole cluster in a cool cellar to extract the lightest color possible.

The 2017 pinks in general show a bit rounder demeanor up front and a bit more weight, yet still deliver the classic rosé experience. Besides that the wine is nicely packaged and well priced. Again, this one checks all the boxes. Jeb Dunnuck had some praise for this juicy pink, “Light pink in color, the 2017 Côtes de Provence Rosé from Le Paradou is a juicy, yet textured, lively rosé that does everything right. Offering lots of white cherry, strawberry, and floral notes, with an almost salty minerality, this beauty hits the palate with medium-bodied richness, nicely integrated acidity, and a clean, dry finish. This is what Provençal rosé is all about and it’s worth a case purchase….90 points.”

CHATEAU DE SEGRIES TAVEL ROSE 2017– Here’s one of those classic Tavels that still thinks it is red wine. The color is a deep orange/pink and there is considerably more mid-palate weight than most of the rosés out there. Yet at the same time it still has the required lift to function beautifully in its capacity as a rosé.

Segries has provided us with a number of tasty selections over the years in both the red and pink variety, and it is one of the sources that still provides ‘old school’ value. It’s added muscle allows it to play with a bit more substantial fare like grilled pork, smoked chicken, sausages, or even meats and provide a more refreshing alternative when the weather is warm.

This is a mix of 50% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, 10% Clairette, and 10% Syrah from 60-year-old vines planted in soils composed of pure silica, sand, clay, pebbles and, of course, stones. This is a saignée which means it was light pressings from grapes that were ultimately destined to be red wines. Everything is done by hand, the grapes were destemmed, and the fermentation takes place at low temperatures to preserve the fruit component.

The nose has an almost red wine element to it as well as notes of ripe melon, red berry and blood orange. All of that plays on the palate along with subtle notes of mineral and pepper. Like we said, this is a more mouth-filling and weightier version of rose than the rank and file, but it still has the freshness to pull it off. It is one of the more impressive and distinctive efforts from this year’s crop of pinks. Thus far the wine got a 92 from Wine Enthusiast with comments, “Beautiful ripe cherry and red berry aromas with floral scents. Good concentration on the palate, flavorful and perfectly balanced. Good acidity and mineral backbone make it a great match with Provençal or Asian cuisine, grilled meat, fresh fruit salads.” We expect there will be more.

CHATEAU PRADEAUX BANDOL ROSE 2017- Every year as we taste through countless pink wines we find a reasonable number of engaging examples and one or two that play on a level all their own. Most long time Francophiles will tell you that Provence is a fine source for rose, but that Bandol has ‘home run’ potential. When a Bandol rosé hits its highest level, it is the quintessential choice. Domaine Tempier has set the standard for years and now sits in the $40 range more or less, expensive even for Bandol. But this one was one of the standouts we have tasted this year, and arguably one of the most memorable ever for its sheer richness, style and layered complexity.

We have had a positive, if somewhat inconsistent relationship with Chateau Pradeaux dating back into the 1990s. This is one of the few times we have had their rosé, but we dare say that it is the most complete, impressive, engaging examples of this category we can recall. This is classic Bandol rosé in both the most traditional and best possible way. The current family took the helm around the time of the French revolution, and the near-the-coast location clearly has a profound effect on the wine’s personality.

The blend here is 50% Cinsault and 50% Mourvedre, with the latter imparting the wine’s distinctive undercurrent of that unique musky minerality that seems to be proprietary to how that varietal performs in this terroir. In more rustic versions it can be overwhelming, but here it is another instrument in a virtual symphony of flavors. The effusive nose speaks of red berries, blood oranges and that earthy/mineral thing that is so indicative of the region. In the mouth it shows layers of flavor including, strawberry, orange and spice. The tension is nearly perfect and there’s enough outgoing fleshiness to easily make friends who aren’t necessarily even fans of Bandol.

The bottom line is that the Chateau Pradeaux Bandol Rose 2017 is an enlightened version of a traditional style and operates in this vintage a level or two above most everything else we have tasted this year. Rosé doesn’t get much better at any price and, at $25, the intensity and complexity in this wine over delivers. If you can find a more compelling pink drink, good on’ya.

DOMINIO DEL AGUILA PICARO CLARETE ROSE 2014- Now for something completely different. First it is important to point out that this is the current release, not some ‘old rosé’ we found in the back room. Some rosés are built to develop in the bottle. The Alphonse Mellot we sold last year is still developing and the Tiburon-based wine from Clos Cibonne is kept in bottle a year before release, just to name a couple. So we are already in rarified air with this element in general, and that is further compounded by the completely unique approach of Dominio del Aguila Picaro Clarete Rose 2014.

Firm, melon, citrus, and berry fruit laced with a kind of chalky minerality and surprising verve for a pink wine at this age, this lets it be known right away that it is not your rank and file pink. A rather unusual blend of Tempranillo, Albillo (a white grape unique to the Ribera del Duero), Garnacha, and Bobal (neither of which are usually associated with the Ribera), this unique mix of red and white grapes is sourced from 60-year-old vines sitting at nearly 3000 ft. elevation. It spends 16 months in a combination of French and American oak, another indication it isn’t necessarily made to be quaffed in its youth.

Wine Advocate’s Louis Gutierrez was quite taken with this wine, and the estate in general. His comments, “The 2014 Pícaro Clarete… is more in the style of a white wine than a red. There are white flowers, aromatic herbs, fine spices and a touch of petrol? The palate is extraordinary, incredibly fresh and complex, with good weight and very good acidity. This has to be the finest vintage to date. The 2012 is drinking superbly today and it’s still young, so I don’t see why this 2014 should not age the same or even better, as I see more freshness and balance here...93 points.”