Month: November 2019

A WORD ON THE BIRD

We realize there are folks that have the Thanksgiving holiday all planned with wines from their own cellar stock.  But there are folks who treat this family holiday differently than they would a dinner or event with their ‘wine and food’ friends. Ours is neither to judge, nor comment on prices, because that is up to everyone’s discretion and based on their individual needs.  Truth be told some people don’t think about it at all and simply serve things that they like, food pairing notwithstanding.  Nothing wrong with that.  We are merely here to comment on some categories that we think work well with that Thanksgiving bird from a symbiotic food and wine perspective. 

Isn’t it the same stuff every year?  To a point, yes.  Same bird, same wine categories to choose from.  The ‘basics’ still apply.  No matter how the turkey is cooked, our agenda is to provide our ‘best bets’ for the wine service.  Turkey is still generally a fowl that tolerates a wide range of wine choices.  As we see it, choices are less about the bird itself and more about the stuffing and other accouterments in determining which wine choices might prove most complimentary.

Every year is different wine-wise as well.  There are some categories hitting a high note this year, and others that are at a nadir.  For the most part this year offers more potential choices in what we feel are the ‘right’ categories.  Our rule of thumb is that, given the varied goodies that will be on the holiday table, whites should have good acidity, bright flavors, and little or no oak.  Again, given the ‘fixins’, it is a fine spot for something with a little residual sugar like a German Riesling, Vouvray, or Pinot Gris from Alsace. 

As for reds, bright fruit, light to medium body, and not a lot of tannin or obvious wood work best.  A bit of underlying acidity and lift is a good thing.  Large framed, oaky, high alcohol wines can get tiresome over the course of the meal and can overwhelm the various dishes.  Those ‘big reds’(Cabernet, Bordeaux, Syrah, etc.), should be saved for hearty beef or lamb roasts.  Acidity is good, wood and tannins not so much with roast fowl.  As a general rule, we aren’t dogmatic.  But, if asked, we see turkeys that are roasted, fried or smoked as all being best with lighter red wine.  Here are our favorite red plays with the bird from a broad perspective, and a couple of specific suggestions. 

Pinot Noir-The fruit-driven, bright fruit of a Pinot marries beautifully with roast, smoked, or fried bird.  These are wonderful times for Pinot fans as California has been rolling out the hits and there are plenty of 2016 and 2017 examples on the shelves, with a few 2015s now in the mix.  Most current vintages have an elegant, tender edge that makes them pretty serviceable.  Oregon has plenty of good stuff, too.  Burgundy?  Of course, if the budget allows. Suggestions: Grochau Pinot Noir 2015, Sostener Pinot Noir, Belle Pente Pinot Noir Belle Pente Vineyard Yamhill-Carlton 2015 , Walter Hansel Estate Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2017, Edmond Cornu Ladoix Vielles Vignes 2015, Charles Noellat Nuits St. Georges 2009,

Beaujolais-This is also the ‘near-perfect’ choice always and one we have been recommending for ages.  Nouveau Beaujolais is not the play anymore. They arrive with travel shock and bottle shock under the best of circumstances.  This year add to that the cost of tariffs that will make a passé option even less viable. On the other hand,  Beaujolais has had a nice run of vintages, and we have outstanding Beaujolais and Cru wine (Morgon, Moulin-A-Vent, Fleurie, etc.). Suggestions: Maison L’Envoye Fleurie Chateau Vivier 2016, Maison L’Envoye Morgon Cote du Py Vieilles Vignes 2016, Pavillon de Chavannes Cote de Brouilly Cuvee des Ambassades 2017, Clos de la Roilette Fleurie Cuvee Tardive 2017, Joseph Drouhin Fleurie Hospices de Belleville 2015

Rioja-Somehow you knew we’d get to Rioja, but the elegance, versatility, and the bottle age of reservas and gran reservas make them crowd-pleasing choices.  Spanish wine for an American holiday?  Claro que si. Suggestions: Lealtanza Rioja Gran Reserva 2010, Viña Santurnia Rioja Gran Reserva 2008, Faustino I Rioja Gran Reserva 1996 (open with Ah So or Durand corkscrew)

Chianti- Sangiovese works nicely particularly on tables where the food choices have a more savory bent.  The 2016s, as a vintage, are some of the best we have tasted in quite a while.  The 2015s are also very appealing and have an extra year of bottle time.  The classic cherry fruit, crisp acidity, and modest tannin match well with roast bird, particularly with savory sides. Suggestions: San Felice Chianti Classico Il Grigio Riserva 2015, Felsina Chianti Classico 2016, Castell’in Villa Chianti Classico 2015



‘HOUSE RED’ CANIDATE

We’ll take the opportunity to make a couple of points.  First is the vintage, 2017.  In short, it’s a really smart vintage with plenty of bright fruit and great freshness. If it had come in the middle of the 70s, 80s, or 90s, it would have been hailed as a special vintage.  These days, with global warming and following one of the best vintages of modern times in 2016, it likely won’t ever get the respect it is due.  That will likely have a greater impact on the higher end, but there will be a consistent source of opportunities in the more moderate price ranges on things like Cotes du Rhones, Rasteaus, et. al..

Moving forward, that discussion is a preface to us talking about a wine that has been something of a staple here since Eric Solomon hooked up with Jean-Francois Nicq at Les Vignerons d’Estézargues to create the Domaine de Andezon label back in 1995.  This is one of those rare cooperatives that is dialed into the growers and has the resources and the flexibility to create some very interesting juice.  Ten growers in this network vinify their best lots from which the coop creates the d’Andezon blend using no cultured yeasts, no filtering, no fining and no enzymes during vinification or aging and only add a small amount of SO2 at bottling.

The track record for this wine is pretty remarkable, garnering 90 points or greater many times since its inception, no easy feat for a wine that has never exceeded $12 on our shelves.  What is perhaps somewhat kitchy about Andezon is that, even though the cooperative is near Avignon in the south, and sources grapes from the surrounding areas, the majority of the wine is Syrah (writers says 100% Syrah, importer notes say there is a m=small amount of Grenache).  Ripe, substantial and character-filled, as always, the 2017 Domaine d’Andezon Cotes du Rhone 2017 also has a lift and brightness befitting the vintage.  As always, it’s the consummate value at $10.98.

Jeb Dunnuck, former Wine Advocate ‘Rhone guy’ now on his own, confirms, “Deeply colored, the 100% Syrah 2017 Côtes du Rhône Domaine D’Andézon (brought up all in concrete) reminds me of a Côtes du Rhône from Pierre-Marie Clape with its iron, violets, plums, white pepper, and sappy aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, supple, and elegant on the palate, it’s a fleshy, delicious Syrah well worth seeking out. Drink it over the coming 4-5 years… 91 Points.”