We are now in the throes of summer and there are still a lot of boats that haven’t landed as yet. But we are pretty happy with what we do have and feel our lineup going forward is as good as it has been in any recent season. The notable exception is some of the stalwarts from Kermit Lynch that we have carried for years. To their credit, Kermit was one of the first companies to shut down to protect employees when the pandemic started in earnest and have been the most cautious in getting back to ‘normal’, whatever that is these days. This will likely be our last ‘comprehensive’ report but you never know.
Tibouren Rosé Cotes de Provence 2019-This rose is produced by the cooperative Vignobles du Ramatuelle, a group comprised of 120 growers in Provence, to the specifications of the American importer. Produced from grapes from ten different parcels across Provence, the blend here is 85% Tibouren, 12% Grenache and 3% Syrah. So what’s Tibouren? Briefly, it is a grape variety largely associated with Provence these days that was introduced by Greek settlers to the region a very long time ago. It’s origins are beleived to be Greece or possibly even the Middle East. It isn’t widely planted because it is kind of fussy and yields vary. You rarely see varietally labelled bottlings but the importer definitely had this in mind.
As roses go, this isn’t one to serve casual wine drinkers. It’s quite tasty but rather ‘geeky’ stuff. The color is more of a copper/salmon, the fruit flavors lean more apricot and orange than berries, there is a savory spice note and a soily undercurrent. Again this one comes alive with food where it has something solid to play off of. Definitely not grandma’s rose but an intriguing choice for the adventurous palate.
Commanderie de Peyrassol Cotes de Provence Rosé 2019– This house is one of the more highly reputed in the region, this partcular bottling being “Cinsault, Syrah and Grenache make a balanced trio full of fruity flavors, nicely sharpened with a touch of Mourvèdre.” They go to the trouble of harvesting at night to protect the freshness of the fruit and get it into stainless steel right after destemming. The color is a very light salmon leaning a little orange and the flavors here are a bright, lively mix of tropical fruits and citrus (more orange than anything) with expressive floral notes. Tasting it one might have guessed there were some white grapes in the mix but that was not the case. A delicate but engaging offering.
Chateau Peyrassol Cotes de Provence Rosé 2019– This is the ‘reserve’ bottling for Peyrassol sourced from 35 year-old-vines on the property. The ‘main characters’ are Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah, but the ‘wild card’ in the “Chateau” bottling is Tibouren, the ancient and regal Provencal grape. Again this has more of a ‘white wine’ texture though there is more red fruit character (strawberry) to go along with the blood orange, a little more palate density and more perceptible dusty minerality. A ‘classic’ Provencal pink.
La Mordoree Cotes du Rhone Rosé La Dame Rousse 2019 – This house has been a favorite around here for a long time, and the 2019 is a top effort in recent memory. A denser, darker, more ‘red winey’ Rose, the mix here is 40% Grenache, 35% Syrah, 15% Cinsault, 5% Carignan, and 5% Mourvèdre of grapes that were grown organically, harvested by hand, and destemmed. This is a heartier pink, the deep rose color an indicator of more palate weight and earthier undercurrents. One of the few pinks with any press thus far, Jeb Dunnuck gave this one a 92 with comments, “…elegance and purity as well as complexity. Giving up notions of ripe strawberries, cherry blossoms, white flowers, and a kiss of minerality, it’s a beautifully textured, medium to full-bodied, incredibly balanced effort that actually has a touch more richness than the Tavel, although both are rich, textured rosés geared for the table.”
Chateau de Segries Tavel Rosé 2019-We have played the Segries card a few times over the years but don’t recall a better one than this. Deep color again, ‘red wininess’, denser texture, evident Tavel minerality, this is one of the more authoritative pinks on the shelf. Produced via saignee from 50% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, 10% Syrah, and 10% Clairette (a white grape) from vines averaging 60 years of age, this is a fairly substantial rose that boasts freshness but also weight as pink wines go. It caught the attention of Vinous’ Josh Raynolds, who handed it a 91, with comments, “Deep orange-pink. Powerful aromas of ripe red berries, cherry, blood orange and nectarine, plus a hint of lavender emerging in the background. Palate-staining raspberry, bitter cherry and tangerine flavors develop a sweetening touch of honey. Chewy and expansive on the persistent finish, which repeats the pit fruit and floral notes.” It’s a ‘fave’ around our house and even stands up to meat. A great effort for the price, particularly among Tavels.
La Bastide Blanche Bandol Rosé 2019– One of the best buys you will find for a Bandol as well as a brighter, more forward example of a genre that is a little bit of an acquired taste because it is based on Mourvedre, a notoriously fussy grape. It does well in these limestone soils with plenty of sunshine and, because it ripens well here, offers of a more forward, charming version of the grape. Low yields and organic farming play a part in the process. In this version the red berry and blood orange fruit are more forward with the underlying minerality, garrigue notes and seaside salinity playing subtle supporting roles. This is a great introduction to Bandol because it delivers the true character of the appellation without extremes. Another superb food choice but it’s also a Bandol you can just haul off and drink.
Cavalchina Bardolino Chiaretto 2019-Cavalchina has been on our shelves in various colors over the years…red, white, and pink. They are a quality producer in the Veneto that makes consistently exciting wines in a place that, by and large, is mainly seen as the source of mass marketed, innocuous efforts from wine ‘factories’ destined for red-checkered tablecloth eateries…Bardolino. The Cavalchina folks are shining stars in a region that is largely uninspired. The Chiaretto (key-ar-et-to) is what they call their rosé. This is a winery that has been around since 1948 and Vinous Media’s Ian D’Agata calls them, “…a recognized master in the making of Chiarettos.”
Last year’s was a serious hit and the 2019 is even better. A blend of 60% Corvina, 35% Rondinella, and 5% Molinara, it is a lively, bright display of berry, red melon, and citrus, light in color and light on its feet with the requisite touches of fresh wild herbs and finishing salinity. As you might expect, it is particularly food friendly.
