Our apologies for rolling this out in ‘fall’. Our intent was to post this a couple of months ago but upgrades to our site, during which we couldn’t update this section, took longer than expected. Locals know that we’re still due for some warmer streaks now through November, plus we believe pink wines have applications all year long. This will likely be our last word on the subject until 2022. The 2020s turned out better than we initially expected to boot. Enjoy.
CORNE LOUPE TAVEL 2020-Classic Tavel with the deeper red/orange hue that tells to it’s a little fuller-bodied and can stand up to a wider range of dishes. The terroir here is strewn with rocks like Chateauneuf and Grenache is the driver (60%) along with 15% Cinsault, 10% Syrah and the remaining 15% is a mix of Mourvèdre, Clairette (a white grape), and Carignan. Red berries, a certain ‘red-winey’ undercurrent, some hints of stony minerality, there are a few more ‘base notes’ to the flavor profile than your typical pink and, of course, it’s bone dry.
Family-owned, starting with 3 hectares in 1966, the estate now covers some 45 hectares in three different appellations, Tavel, Lirac and Cotes du Rhone. The wine comes from a famous sub-parcel called the Plateau de Vallongue, located between the Tavel and Lirac AOC’s. Corne-Loup’s Tavel is a blend of all three soil types found in the Tavel AOC: the flat white stones of the Vestides hamlet, the ‘galets roulés’ pebbles of Vallongue (similar to CDP), and the sandy, stony soil of the Olivet hamlet. The name comes from this side of the Tavel village. In olden times, someone would blow the horn (“corne”) in order to warn others of a sighting of a wolf (“loup”) coming into town. An excellent value for a Tavel.
FONTENIL LUBERON ROSE 2020-A relatively new incarnation from a winery we have worked with for at least two decades, including at least one wine-of-the-month selection under our previous format. Certified organic, this wine comes from the bases of Mount Luberon in the southeastern corner of the Rhone. The grapes are mainly Grenache (50%) with Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvedre filling out the blend. There’s a high toned feel on the palate that would almost give you the impression that there was something white (like Rolle) in the mix, but there isn’t. The flavors hint at yellow melon, red berries, and wild fine herb. Bright and refreshing, light on its feet yet deceptively flavorful, this is both tasty and ‘cost effective’ at $14.98.
DOMAINE BART MARSANNAY ROSE 2020-We won’t get into the whole story about how Bart is one of the descendents of the historic Claire Dau family in Burgundy. Suffice it to say they are quickly becoming one of our favorites in the region for compelling efforts at very attractive prices. The Domaine Bart Marsannay Rose 2020 is 100% Pinot Noir and a very attractive mouthful of pink wine. Deceptive weight atop plenty of fresh acidity, your flavor profile is a cornucopia of fresh red berries and finely woven in streaks of delicate minerality. Last year’s was a favorite among our extensive pink lineup and this one is right there again.
DOMAINE DE SEGRIES TAVEL ROSE 2020-Another day, another Tavel? Heck, why not? This is one of the few places in France where the appellation is based around pink wine and there’s a reason for that. The typical Tavel has a few more base notes to the flavor profile and a little deeper color than your average rose, and the best examples have a certain palate authority that gives them broader applications food-wise. Many, like this one, seem to ‘want’ to be red.
A quick history, owner Henri de Lanzac (cousin of the Delorme family of Domaine de la Mordorée) purchased Chateau de Segries in 1994 from Count Henri de Regis, the founder of the Lirac AOC. The Tavel Rose is a blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, 10% Clairette, and 10% Syrah from vine averaging 60 years of age. This is made from a saignee (bleeding) of juice from the red wines. Mainly strawberry fruit with flecks of white stone fruit and blood orange, more base notes than your average Tavel and more weight on the palate as roses go.
Josh Reynolds of Vinous has this to say, “Lurid orange-pink. Mineral-accented aromas of ripe tangerine, cherry and pungent flowers, plus a suggestion of succulent herbs. Chewy and energetic on the palate, offering concentrated bitter cherry, peach and blood orange flavors and a subtle lavender flourish. Finishes very long and focused, the lavender note repeating…91 points.”
LA BASTIDE BLANCHE BANDOL ROSE 2020-While Provence has the reputation for pink wine, Bandol provides some of the most complex and compelling examples. Unfortunately, top Bandol roses are typically priced 30-50% higher than you’re standard Provencal pink. That’s the beauty of Bastide Blanche. This gives you real Bandol character for a price more in line with Rhone and Provence pinks. This estate dates back to 1972, and the blend here is Mourvedre first with Grenache and Cinsault, and white varietals Clairette and Ugni Blanc giving this pink a little lift and snap in the back end.
This is one with notes by Vinous’ Josh Raynolds, “Limpid orange-pink. Expressive red berry, blood orange and pit fruit aromas are accompanied by building mineral and floral nuances. Taut and energetic in the mouth, offering sappy strawberry, orange zest and lavender flavors braced by a spine of chalky minerality. Finishes silky and impressively long, with repeating mineral and floral notes…92 points.” In other words, bargain Bandol.
DOMAINE LES PALLIERES AU PETIT BONHEUR LES PALLIERES GIGONDAS ROSE 2020-Even though this estate can trace its history back some 500 years, the relevant story started around 2007 when the Brunerl brother of Vieux Telegraph and importer Kermit Lynch bought this property. This rose bottling only goes back a few vintages. It is lighter colored, something of a pale salmon, and lighter on its feet that you might expect from property that produces such beefy reds.
The blend is 33% Grenache, 33% Clairette, and 33% Cinsault, and the high percentage of white juice responsible for this wine’s delicate appearance and unique floral profile. The flavors centers on cherry, though think more Raniers than Bing, with some higher toned spicy notes, the wine achieved an AOC Gigondas status for this vintage (apparently the blend and status varies yearly).
GROS NORE BANDOL ROSE 2020-Yes, Domaine Tempier has established itself as the premier player with Bandol rose. But not far behind, and for considerably less d’argent (money), is Gros Nore. Alain Pascal, a former boxer, farms 16 hectare in a practicing organic method. The estate used to sell fruit to Domaine Ott and Chateau Pibarnon, but he started bottling his own produce in 1997.
The blend here is 54% Mourvèdre, 25% Cinsault, 19% Grenache, and 2% Clairette from vines averaging 30 years old. It starts with the familiar musky strawberry nose and flavor note of Mourvedre grown in Bandol and kicks off from there with blood orange, yellow stone fruits, and floral notes adding complexity. This is ‘big kid’ rose with more weight and palate authority, this has scored 92 points from Vinous in 2016, 2017, and 2019 (no review on 2018). For whatever reason, again with reference to Tempier, this 2020 feels even a touch more successful in the glass than several very engaging versions we’ve had previously. A more serious pink.
