Month: August 2022

NEW NAVARRA NOTABLES

There are things going on all over Spain, and Navarra is no different. It is a historic area that lives in the considerable shadow of Rioja to the southwest. This, however, is a new project by two environmental biologists and former winemaking hobbyists of Basque decent deciding to ‘go pro’ with the intent of focusing on Navarra’s widest planted varietal, Grenache. There’s a bit of a twist as they are looking for old plantings with more historic genetic materials. If those sites contain other ancient indigenous varietals, that’s okay, too.

They have assigned themselves a rather formidable task. They want to establish a new identity for Navarra based on scrutinizing and developing unique sites and allowing them to express themselves. They seem to have caught on in Spain and bottles of their wines started showing up in Michelin-starred restaurants across the country. The key to their work is biodiversity. They are working on high elevation sites with predominantly old vines in places were aromatic plants like rosemary, thyme and lavender naturally sprout up between the rows. Kind of sounds like Provence.

The name of the project, Aseginolaza & Leunda, will be a bit of a stumbling block for some folks, as will the general lack of familiarity regarding what Navarra is really all about. But that won’t be a major problem just yet since there is very little wine at present. The national importer says that only 1000 bottles came into the country among seven different bottlings. So you won’t need to clear away a lot of space in the cellar, but you should get to know this promising startup early on.

The Aseginolaza & Leunda Navarra Kauten 2020 is 100% Garnacha harvested in small bins and fermented with 25% whole clusters (the rest is destemmed) via native yeasts. It spends three months in neutral barrels before being bottled unfiltered with a minimum of SO2. As is the character of Navarra Grenache, the flavors center on cool edged, urgent red fruits.

From Luis Gutierrez at robertparker.com, “The very young and primary 2020 Kauten, produced with fruit from their younger vineyards, is fruit-driven and a little heady, with good ripeness and 14% alcohol, which provided pungent flavors and abundant fine-grained tannins. The oak is neatly integrated and the wine has very good general balance. It’s elegant and powerful with good ripeness, 14% alcohol, very good freshness (pH 3.17 and seven grams of acidity) and integrated oak after six months in barrel. 1,200 bottles were filled in July 2021…92 p0ints.”

As to the Aseginolaza & Leunda Navarra Matsanko 2020, the soil is composed
by a a succession of shales and siltstones, with insertions of coarse-grained sandstones. The wine sees five months in older barrels and then is bottled unfiltered after natural clarification. Luis Gutierrez takes care of the rest of the technicals in his piece.

From Luis Gutierrez, robertparker.com, “I was quite surprised by the complexity and nuance of the 2020 Matsanko, despite being very young. It fermented with full clusters and semi-carbonic maceration and matured in barrel for five months. It’s a blend of old-vine Garnacha (75%), Tempranillo (15%) and Viura (10%). It’s elegant, serious and somehow austere, with good ripeness (14.5% alcohol) and concentration, abundant fine-grained tannins and good depth. 1,239 bottles produced. It was bottled in July 2021…Aseginolaza & Leunda is one of the new names from Navarra worth following…92+ points!”

An intriguing new source to check out, quantities are limited.

AN IMPORTANT NEW FACE IN RIOJA

Even though Spain is a country of history and tradition, there are a number of things happening that question the established order of thing and, in some cases, boldly go where few have travelled.  In Rioja, arguably the most traditional wine region in Spain, there is a lot of new thinking, some of which is generational.  In some cases, this new thinking involves going back to the ‘old ways’ in the vineyard.  The path of young, influential winemaker Arturo de Miguel Blanco is a fine example of that.

Arturo’s family has grape vines, and a strong belief in their land.  Their ‘vision’ is to focus on specific terroirs and ‘return the power to the growers’.  Arturo has converted all of their vineyards to organic farming and has purchased an additional 3.2 hectares in the villager of Samaniego and Villabuena de la Sonsierra, bringing their total holdings to 28.9 hectares of principally 30-40 year-old vines, mostly Tempranillo with some Garnarcha and Viura.  Their ‘terroirs’ are primarily calcerous sandstone (somewhat similar to Barbera and Barbaresco).

As we have discussed on a couple of occasions, there is a trend among producers to eschew the standard classifications of Rioja of Reserva, Grand Reserva, etc.  The thinking is that the standard Rioja designations are about the ‘process’, and strictly define what course a producer must follow to use the designation on the label.  It involves rules on time in barrel and time in bottle, but has no requirements or regard for the sourcing. 

In our minds there is nothing inherently wrong with that system.  But we also understand the thinking of the new wave of vintners.  They are more interested in recognizing villages and individual estates for their terroirs and being free to make the wines however they see fit for their vineyards without regard to structured rules about barrel time and bottling.  There are some pretty loud voices supporting that stance, among them the likes of Telmo Rodriguez and Juan-Carlos López de Lacalle of Artadi.  Arturo di Miguel is in that camp.

As we were presented these wines for the first time, the focus of the information seemed to be centered on the two site-specific bottlings, Paso de las Manas and Finca de los Locos.  They were just fine but that day the show was stolen by the Artuke Rioja Pies Negros 2019, a remarkably expressive, engaging, high quality effort at a surprising price given the quality.  Pies Negros is Spanish for ‘black feet’, a reference to the foot-trodding that is part of this wine’s upbringing.

The source here are high altitude vineyards tucked just below the Sierra Cantabria Mountains in Rioja Alta village of Abalos at about 1900-foot elevation.   The blend here is 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano that are de-stemmed and, yes, foot-trodden.  Maceration in stainless steel is followed by a 12-14 month sojourn in 80% French and 20% American oak barrels, second and third fill.

Visually this is rather dark in color as Riojas go.  The nose showcases deep, dark, very pure cherry fruit that hits with almost laser-like precision.  Plush, layered, polished, this wine looks and tastes like something costing twice the price and possesses a depth and freshness that is kind of uncommon for the genre.   The purveyor’s ‘pitch’ was ‘serious wine at a not so serious price,’ which in this case is entirely accurate.

We taste a lot of Spanish wines and it isn’t easy to surprise us, but the Pies Negros had a unique personality and a very engaging demeanor that took us a little off-guard.  How could something this compelling only cost twenty bucks!?  Even within the context of Spanish value, this one is a notch above.

Curiously, with regard to press, the Wine Advocate has followed the winery and said very nice things about the 2017 Pies Negros (92 points), the 2018 (93 points), and the 2020 (92+ points).     But Luis Gutierrez did not taste the 2019s, (other than the already bottled entry level which got 90 points) because they were not yet bottled.   Too bad since 2019, considered outstanding by the Riojanos, is by far the best vintage of the group. It would likely score higher.  Guess it’s still under the radar which is fine by us. A serious new name in Rioja.