August 2023

GOOD GERMAN DRY RIESLING

We have been pretty vocal regarding our general dislike for the results of the newish trend towards trocken (dry) German Riesling. To clarify, we are mainly targeting the trockens from the Mosel houses, many of whom have been making delightful traditional styled Rieslings for decades, in some cases centuries. Egged on by the sommelier community a number of top flight Mosel producers are dedicating increasing portions of their production to dry wines. Sadly we find most of them lean and skeletal with little innate charm beyond clearing your palate for the next bite.

We also have to wonder why? The Mosel’s classic, crystalline, fruity Rieslings are unique in the wine world and pair spectacularly with a variety of Pacific Rim, Island, and far Eastern dishes. Plus they are newcomers to a genre that is already beautifully (and better) executed in Austria, Alsace, and Australia, not to mention their own back yard.

They have been making excellent dry Riesling in the Rheinpfalz and Rheinhessen for a long time. The growing conditions are different and they trockens from those regions have more body, palate weight, texture, and substance. One of the house favorites for trockens around here is Wittmann in the Rheinhessen. Hand harvested from organically farmed (and certified biodynamic) estate vineyards around the village of Westhofen, the grapes are fermented via native yeasts and matured in large neutral casks.

The nose shows notes of lemon and lime zest, a little honeysuckle, some notes like fresh grain, and stone fruit pith. In the mouth there is tension, but not at the expense of texture. There is weight on the palate with flavors mirroring the nose along with some earthy minerality and chalk notes. If you’re looking for a fine example of German trocken, the Wittmann Riesling Rheinhessen Estate Trocken 2021 is where you go.

From James Suckling, “Stunning nose of ripe pear, mandarin orange and smoke. Impressive concentration for the challenging vintage with a nice juiciness and good chalky minerality. Long, surprisingly complex and harmonious finish, the acidity already beautifully integrated. From biodynamically grown grapes with Respekt certification. Vegan. Drink or hold. Screw cap…92 points.”

From Wine Advocate, “From Westhofen’s stonier soils and assembling 28 different vats, Wittmann’s 2021 Riesling trocken Estate is the former Gutswein, but it’s already a wine that is more than just a Riesling pleasure. The white-yellow colored wine offers a clear and spicy, pure and mineral nose with ripe, elegant fruit with herbal nuances. Mouthfilling, round and textured on the palate, this is a juicy yet pure, saline and finessed, very stimulating dry Riesling with delicate lemon bitters on the finish that reveals some ripe white-peach aromas on the aftertaste. This was vinified in large oak and stainless steel (70/30) and aged on the full lees for nearly six months. Tasted at the domaine in August 2022. 11.5% stated alcohol. Screw-cap closure…91+ points.”

A WORD ON SAKE: HEAVEN

A little over a year ago we reintroduced Japanese sake to our portfolio, something we did for a long time at the Orange location. We have what we think is a tight but well-curated selection of traditional sakes, and have seen a variety of interesting things from less traditional origins (like Brooklyn). We ran across something recently however that is perhaps one of the most intriguing pair of Sakes marketed under the Heavensake label, Heavensake Junmai Daiginjo Sake (Urakasumi) and Heavensake Junmai Daiginjo Sake (Dassai). For you hard core Sake fans, the individual specs of each effort are displayed on the site next to the respective bottlings. And we’ll tell you up front they aren’t cheap. But they stand alone against any Sake we have tasted at any price.

What’s the difference? Well they are each made at a storied Sake house and both are at the highest level of quality, Junmi Daiginjo, using high highly milled, top quality Nishiki rice. They are made under supervision of the same outside specialist. The seimaibuai (the percentage of the rice remaining after milling) is extremely low in both cases, with the Urakasumi under 50% and the Dessai below 39%! Just given the milling and the reputation, these would no doubt be outstanding traditional sakes.

What makes them unique is a French connection. Regis Camus is the world-renowned chef de caves at Maison Rare Champagne. Admired for his skillful blending, Regis defined the soul of Heavensake, immersing himself in the spirit and tradition of Japan yet clearly injecting his wine experience in the mix. His respectful ambition was to compose unique sakes showcasing the power of blending “à la française” while honoring the magnificent heritage of Japanese sake making. That he has done with aplomb.

Both of these have the classic floral/anise aromatics that are recurring themes in this historic beverage. But there is also more evident nuance and stone fruit character in both the aromatics and palate that is truly distinctive and take them to the next level. The fruitiness and polish on the palate is top of the heap. But what truly defines the efforts of this ‘wine guy’ making sake is the round, smooth texture and balance that gives them an almost wine ethos. It is that last element that truly sets it apart from anything we have tasted in the category. A complete sake experience unlike any other. (Go to Heavensake)

NEW ‘FRENCH’ BUBBLY IN AMERICA

It has been a very long time since the first invasion of California by a French Champagne house, Chandon, way back in the 70s. Many more have come since. But over time a lot of the prices have edged up to the point where one can find actual French Champagne for the same kind of prices. This new offering from Pommery serves as an exciting new and well priced option for the genre.

We have sold the French Pommery Champagne off and on for years. But we saw the Louis Pommery Reserve Brut NV California bottling for the first time just recently, and it fills a niche that, at present, isn’t really being addressed…a good California sparkler under $20. As we know with the French, that value factor could change tomorrow. But for the time being this is a find and is definitely made to be a fruit forward, crowd pleasing, easy style.

Maybe we are picky but, while the French Pommery announces their founding in 1857, there is no specific statement on when this program began (there is also an English version in the UK) or where the grapes come from. One can presume that ‘grapes carefully selected across California vineyards’ is about as much info as they are going to provide. They did make the point that this cuvee is 100% Chardonnay and that the production was overseen by Clement Pierlot, the current chef de caves at Champagne Pommery. But, you know us, in the end it’s about the juice and this French inspired domestic sparkler is pretty appealing on that score.

The bubbles are refined and the mousse is creamy. The nose offers bright scent of green apples and citrus tones with a whiff of minerality. The palate is fairly generous while still bright and lifted and it finishes with notes of yellow stone fruits. You wouldn’t necessarily guess domestic at first and, once you get into it, you likely won’t care. It fills the bill nicely for a good price ($19.98).