January 2020

PINOTFILES: A SERIOUS NEW FIND

Part of our mission is to find new and exciting sources for, well, everything. We look at an imposing number of wines in order to find a few that really make a statement. Consumer interest in expensive, single-vineyard Pinot Noir has seemed to wane over recent years. But we believe that is because so many of them don’t really perform the task of showing the nuances of the particular sites to justify the escalated pricing.

Clearly the whole idea of those vineyard bottlings is a nod to Burgundy, and when the wines do reflect the unique nuances of their origins, they are worth the extra freight. Of course, the Burgundians have been doing it for a very long time, and there are a few proven performers here on the West Coast. But also of great stature are a few folks from the Southern Hemisphere. We’ve spoken at length over the years about Kiwi superstar Felton Road, and have been more recently singing the praises of the wines from Escarpment.

However, we have recently come across a much less familiar name that appears to be ‘swinging for the fences’. One might ask why we dive into a relatively obscure category and highlight a producer few here, ourselves included, had ever heard of before. Fair question. There are easier ways to make a living to be sure. But the wines of Valli from Central Otago demand an audience based on what we tasted. They are thrilling wines.

It all starts with winemaker/owner Grant Taylor, who started in Central Otago when the whole appellation had only 20 hectares planted back in 1993, incidentally the first vintage from which we tasted any New Zealand Pinots. Prior to that, Otago-born Grant had worked to establish Pine Ridge winery in Napa Valley and then Domaine Napa until 1993. Upon returning to New Zealand, Grant did pioneering work at a number of wineries in the then-emerging Central Otago region including names you have read on our pages in the past like Felton Road, Mt Difficulty, Peregrine, and Rockburn. Grant kept his American ties along the way, helping to establish Oregon’s renowned Pinot Noir producing winery, Archery Summit, in 1995. He has consulted there for many vintages since.

Valli Vineyards, the estate Grant named for his great-great-grandfather who had originally immigrated to New Zealand, was founded in 1998 with the idea of exploring more site-specific expressions of the region. After having logged some 40 vintages, as well as winning a London based international wine competition an unprecedented 4 times, he clearly has a good handle getting the terroir of a particular site to show off. This expressive quartet of Pinot Noirs is proof of that.

Since we had never seen the wines before, we were surprised that a couple of reviewers had chronicled several vintages. The reviews are consistently strong but even perhaps a little less enthusiastic than we would have expected. But truth be told, we tasted them twice. The first time we liked them a lot but were a tiny bit wary of the prices. The second tasting a month or two later, after the wines settled down a little, blew us away. It was full speed ahead.

Gibbston is one of the coolest sub-regions of Otago and has one of the slowest ripening cycles. A key factor in quality Pinot Noir from such a cool area is long hang time and the grapes here are cropped at a low one kilo per vine to facilitate that development. The Valli Pinot Noir Central Otago Gibbston Vineyard 2016 has the coolest perfume to the aromatics, ranging from red to black fruits. It has the requisite sweet middle to the fruit which harmonizes the subtle, herbal framework with the beautifully ripe fruit. A full complement of reviews (WS 92, JS 92, WA 91, VM 93) with Niel Martin’s note, “The well-balanced palate offers a fine thread of acidity, gentle grip in the mouth and good weight and superb delineation towards the finish. An excellent New Zealand Pinot Noir that should age in bottle.”

Of the Otago subregions, Bannockburn is probably the most familiar. The Bannockburn wines reflect this warmer area by displaying darker fruits, more density, more power and longevity based more on their tannin structure, as opposed to Gibbston wines which are based more on their lift. Climate, rather than soil, attributes to the main difference in the wines. Valli Pinot Noir Central Otago Bannockburn Vineyard 2016 shows a bit more flesh but a similar note of red and black fruits, here with accents of Asian spice, a hint of soy and a little more mineral. Deceptive length.

Dual 93s (from Wine Advocate and James Suckling), with Suckling’s comments, “This has impressive depth of fruit as well as fragrant top-line perfume. The oak spice suits the dark cherry and sweet earthiness. On the palate there is a punchy frame of tannins that draws tight and fresh through the finish thanks to bracing acidity.”

The higher elevation of this site, called ‘Chinaman’s Terrace’, means slightly cooler temperatures within the context of a warmer (by Kiwi standards) subregion. Good airflow is important to vine health. The wines from this very warm part of Otago have been described as “big friendly beasts”. The Valli Pinot Noir Central Otago Bendigo Vineyard 2016 is, as befits the area, dark, rich, and lush, capturing the rock-reflected heat and ripeness of this special site. It is perhaps

the most similar to something from northern California…a little deeper in color, fuller-bodied with an emphasis on fruit and structure. The dusty, sweet tannins are reminiscent of, say, Sonoma’s Petaluma Gap. Different supporters here (WS 93, JS 92), with Spectator’s notes, “Distinctly spicy, with sarsaparilla, clove and cedar notes that mingle with dense blackberry and blueberry flavors. The tannins are firm, the acidity fresh. Details of sandalwood and cigar box linger on the finish.”

Last, but certainly not least, is the Valli Pinot Noir Central Otago Waitaki Vineyard 2016. Super low yields here from tight plantings of Burgundian clones (Pommard and Dijon) in limestone soils that are featured in this, one of the newest growing areas. A little cooler than Central Otago, this is high-toned stuff with a nose featuring outgoing fruit perfumes and minerality. The ‘Burgundy’ resemblance continues with a wine that is lighter in color, more meaty, peppery and a little ’sauvage’. Not the ‘biggest’ but the longest and most insistent of the bunch. Again the ‘gallery’ approves (VM 93, JS 92, WA 92) highlighting with Wine Advocate notes, “…classic Pinot scents of sous-bois and black cherries, while cola and dried spices add to its considerable appeal. It’s medium-bodied, silky smooth and so, so easy to drink, with no rough edges but just the right amount of acidity to provide life and length on the finish.”

It’s hard to put it in proper perspective, but the magnitude of effort we saw here suggest something on the order of a top producer in the Cote d’Or, a Felton Road, or single vineyard efforts from Calera. Time will tell, but there was definitely a lot to like here. Valli is definitely a significant discovery and well worth exploring for Pinot Noir fans of all persuasions.

SUPER DOLCETTO

Some folks might not understand getting super excited about a Dolcetto. But that’s because they have probably never had one like this. Frankly, not sure we ever have either. Dolcetto is widely considered a ‘small wine’ of Piedmont, something engaging and bright to wash down lunch from vines that usually occupy the lesser parts of the hillside. Doesn’t mean it can’t be delicious, and we have had many good ones over the years. But in Dogliani, the part of Piedmont that is dedicated to Dolcetto, the bar is higher. In the hands of a conscientious producer like Orlando Pecchenino, higher still. Yet even with that understanding, this bottling raised eyebrows.

We haven’t formed a sweeping opinion of the 2017s in this part of the world as yet. But we do know a couple of things. The vintage was warm and the grapes came in ripe. As this is not the norm, some vintners couldn’t quite handle it and there are still questions about consistency. But the vintage has thus far given rise to some of the most pandering, lushest Italian reds we can recall tasting. For the ‘oldtimers’, think some of the ripe vintages of the 90s like 1990 or 1997, but fresher thanks to better winemaking.

The Pecchenino Dogliani Superiore Siri d’Jermu 2017 is something of a freak. It has all of the classic lines…fine acidity underneath, a little bit of an almond skin nip at the finish. But the wave of gushing, opulent blackberry fruit, the plushness of the palate, and tender edges were unlike any Dolcettos we could recall. The wine had exceptional richness yet stayed uncannily light on its feet.

There are those ads with sports stars about ‘the soup that eats like a meal’. This gorgeous Dolcetto ‘drinks like a meal’, though you can certainly accompany it with actual food like a plate of salami, a meaty pasta, or something from the grill and it will play beautifully. The only problem is that people who aren’t familiar with Doliani Dolcettos might think they all drink like this. They don’t! The James Suckling ’92’ doesn’t even begin to convey our impressions of this Dogliani. A must-try for any fan of reds, this is a one of a kind effort.

DANIEL RION BOURGOGNE 2017

There always seem to be plenty of ‘experts’ willing to pontificate on the status of the rarest and most expensive of the Cote d’Or in any given vintage. Should you need the information on some of the most sought after bottlings that few can afford and even fewer can find, that info is out there. Around here we are much more practical. Our aim is to find exciting wines that reflect the region and offer exciting opportunities for regular folks who just want an exciting bottle of Pinot Noir without having to worry about car payments, etc.. The 2017 vintage will serve our needs quite well.

We have tasted a number of the ‘little’ wines from 2017 and have found the vintage to have a lot in common with the 2015s, which in turn means we will be able to find a lot of those delicious, lower-priced gems to keep Burgundy a viable and delightful choice. The vintage was warm, and there were some weather quirks that made the quantities bit more modest, all of which combine to make for delightful reds. As luck would have it, we just ran across the Bourgogne from the respected house of Daniel Rion, a source that we have worked with many times over the years, but hadn’t seen much of recently. As they say, timing is everything.

Created in 1955 by Daniel Rion, this family-owned estate began with only two hectares of vines located in the commune of Vosne Romanée, left to Daniel by his paternal grandfather. Until 1978, Daniel sold his wine to Burgundian negociants. In the late seventies, his sons joined the business, bringing new parcels of vines with them. A new winery was built with a larger cellar and a tasting room. Today, the domaine consists of eighteen hectares of vineyards with eighteen appellations in six villages of the Côte des Nuits and the Hautes-Côtes: Prémeaux, Nuits Saint Georges, Vosne Romanée, Chambolle Musigny, Vougeot and Marey-les-Fussey.

The vines for Daniel Rion Bourgogne Rouge 2017 are spread over several plots located at the bottom of the hills in the Nuits Saint Georges appellation totaling about 2 hectares. Slightly sloping, on deep brown soil of silt and clay, the vines average 20 years of age and the wine sees time in second and third use barrels.

The color is an inviting mulberry, the nose shows red and black fruits with a whiff of mineral and earth as befits a wine from this part of the world. In the mouth, it is classic Pinot with ample mid-palate weight, dark red fruit prominent, and slightly soily, spicy peripherals as an accent to the fruit core. In other words, red Burgundy as it should be. Like most 2017s, it is pretty user-friendly right out of the gate though it does expand a bit more with a little air. It outperforms its modest appellation and offers a more compelling experience than a lot of domestic Pinots that cost more.

MAS MONASTERIO MAGNIFICO

It would be very easy to go off on some long-winded rant about the Ribera del Duero in general and Hacienda Monasterio specifically. This area has been producing wines for a couple of millennia and probably became more focused as a region way back in the 12th Century. But the official D.O. of the regions only became official in 1982 which is when we started seeing examples in the U.S.. They clearly didn’t have the marketing savvy of Rioja, nor the identity. But some of the best wines in Spain, indeed the world, come from here.

Vega Sicilia, founded in 1864, is sort of the de facto ‘flagship’ of the region, but there are a few other superstars that also carry the proverbial torch. Probably the fastest rising one was an estate assembled by Danish winemaker Peter Sisseck, whose top wine Pingus, only created in the mid-90s, is now one of Spain’s most revered and expensive bottlings. Sisseck essentially searched the land for vineyards in his spare time from his ‘day job’, which was the founding and development of Hacienda Monasterio. We have followed this wine for a long time and it has only continued to get better and better, these days we believe achieving the quality level of a classified Bordeaux, maybe a 2nd or 3rd growth.

Hacienda Monasterio has been on an upward trajectory since the beginning, which is no small fact since it was pretty much one of the stars of the region almost out of the gate. The styling is modern, but plenty of care is taken to let the true terroir of the Ribera, aromas of chocolate, mineral, orange peel and tapenade and a core of intense dark red and black fruits on the palate, shine through. To quote the importer, “It is a testament to the terroir of Hacienda Monasterio that throughout the evolution towards a more elegant style of winemaking, it still retains all of its power and intensity, deepened and enriched by greater finesse and complexity.”

We wrote an email that was a virtual love letter about the 2015 in February of last year, complete with appropriately enthusiastic scores like a 95 from Jeb Dunnuck and 94 from Wine Advocate, ending with Dunnuck’s words that, “Even at $50, it’s a smoking value!” Our take was, as people who have been following this estate for some time, we were comfortable saying that it may have been the best and most seamless and complete effort of Monsaterio we have ever had as well as one of the best red wine options for this kind of price from anywhere in the world. We sold it for $39.99 and it vaporized…as well it should have.

We were recently presented with the 2016. Sadly, there wasn’t enough juice for us to consider sending out a full-blown email offer, but that didn’t stop us from buying all they did have. Why? Well, once again, it got strong praise. The 94 from Wine Advocate was actually a little higher given that there was a ‘plus’ attached. Also the words were strong, “The Crianza is now simply the 2016 Hacienda Monasterio, a powerful wine from a large vintage where the vines delivered a good crop of ripe grapes, even when the grapes were harvested early… This is a generous and ripe wine with a juicy texture, ripe flavors and abundant, round tannins. It feels very young and undeveloped, and the wine seems to have the stuffing and balance for a positive development in bottle.”

Jeb Dunnuck hasn’t issued a review yet but we would be surprised if it wasn’t the same or higher as the last one. In point of fact, the 2016 is a notch better, with a more complete and seamless texture, great fruit, and plenty of stuffing. It is the best Monasterio we have ever tasted in this series, period, and thanks to a market quirk, we are able to offer it for $5 a bottle less! Enough said.

A NEW DECADE: PART ONE

As we enter the new decade, we see a lot of nuanced changes that will have a big impact on the wine world and how people make buying decisions over the long haul. There is a waning of the power of the wine media which, while it isn’t as much of a factor for us as some merchants, will definitely auger for adjustments in how wines are presented to the public. If you go onto the internet, most merchants say nothing about the wine other than pasting up some third party media review.

But the media itself has changed and expanded, and there are a lot more ‘wannabees’ crowding the field. Producers and purveyors are quoting an ever metastasizing group, always searching to find someone that will give them reviews that will help them sell wine. Also a lot of the ‘old guard’ review sources, seem much more interested in selling advertisements or events than truly being reliable consumer advocates. What is a aficionado to do?

Accountability is one issue. As an example, let’s take one of the publications largely responsible for the wine sales becoming so media-driven in the first place, The Wine Advocate. In the beginning, there was just one guy, Robert Parker. Whether you agreed with his assessment or not, you knew where he was coming from, that it was ‘from the heart’ and there was a consistency to the perspective. For that reason, there was a certain trust that created loyal followers and, by association, empowered what the critic said about individual wines. As the publication grew, there was still the feeling that the expanded group of reviewers reflected, in their own way, the general direction and intent of the publication as an unbiased source of wine information.

The Wine Advocate was later purchased by a group in Singapore and, just recently, by Guide Michelin. Nothing personal, but is the consumer ‘trust factor’ that accompanied those passionate individual(s) in the beginning going to be the same for a rating service owned by a highly visible multinational corporation? Will the individual collector feel a connection to reviews from such a source? Sure it has the same name. But, in truth, it isn’t quite the same thing. Will the response to big scores be the same? It has been steadily changing already. As we have said elsewhere, 10-15 years ago we knew when one of the big reviewers came out, the phones would start ringing and ‘touted’ products that were on the website would vaporize. It doesn’t happen that way anymore.

Are we saying that’s a bad thing? Not necessarily, but it is definitely a ‘thing’ and there will be a growing vacuum as to where consumers will get their wine information and guidance. Some, perhaps many new options will evolve to fill the need for those folks that want more out of wine than what they see at the grocery store.

As to the grocery stores, the buying program is in part dictated by something called the ‘Nielson 300’, a service that publishes a list of the best selling ‘brands’). That publication may be useful in making recommendations as to what sells in the marketplace to grocers seeking to minimize their inventory risks. It does not, however, make any qualitative assessments that we are aware of but has a great impact on what consumers get to see on the shelves. Also, to be on a list that chronicles sales, there has to be a lot of wine produced by those wineries. That typically runs counter to the nuanced, place-driven kinds of bottlings that we think make wine truly interesting.

The corporate ‘big-brand’ approach plays right into that arena. We have seen cellar manipulation and winemaking ‘tricks’ becoming more obvious and prevalent in a broader swath of wines as we move forward. A decade or more ago, ‘blandness’ was the enemy. A lot of wineries expanded production to appeal to broader audiences at the expense of style. Wines were overly filtered, acidified to within an inch of their lives, with the goal being not to ‘offend’. By depriving wines of any overt character, there was nothing to object to. Safety first.

That protocol has changed to a more aggressive one. These days, in the name of ‘brand-building’, wines are pumped up with concentrates, wood staves are floated in the tank to give an oak character, and residual sugar is left in the wine to give it more body. There are a host of other techniques we don’t even know about. The object is to make the wine fit a broad audience by working as formulaic as possible, like a soft drink. That way it tastes similar every year, negating the effect of vintage and grape sourcing.

From a marketing perspective, we get it, and a few early successes with such winemaking regimens at certain wineries inspired copycats. The practice has expanded not only to more wineries here but overseas as well. To try and be objective, if that is what the people want, give it to them. But we have a problem thinking of that stuff as wine, even if, chemically speaking, it is. What’s more, we wonder where most people will have the opportunity to experience ‘real’ wine. If all they have had is are these ‘doctored’ versions, will they even like the honest stuff?

So what’s the big deal? In a word, ‘homogenization’. If ‘control group’ wine production creates a world where everything starts to taste the same, and controlled marketing makes it difficult for anything that might not be mainstream to find an avenue to reach the market, diversity is stifled. What’s the fun in that?

THE MAESTRO OF MOSCATO

Yeah, we know, New Year’s resolutions. But everyone needs a little joy in their life, and there is nothing more joyous than an expressive Moscato with its engaging apple/yellow stone fruit, enticing spicy aromas, and lively spritz on the palate. Through the years we have sold truckloads of Moscato d’Asti, which is pretty remarkable really. Not because of the wine itself, mind you. It is one of those wines that appeals to people who aren’t very sophisticated in their wine tastes, but also to people that are pretty experienced as well who appreciate an artful version . The thing is that ‘sophisticated’ wine drinkers would never admit they enjoyed a sweet, fizzy wine. Our message is that there is nothing wrong with shameless pleasure.

That point made, just being Moscato is not enough. All Moscatos are not created equal. Some are a little too clipped and lean and can come off as a little soapy. Others come off as dumpy and too sugary because they lack buoyancy and verve. The key is to have that tension between the juicy fruit and the wine’s acidity. Very fresh, even boisterous fruit, sitting atop refined, lifting acidity, with the right touch of fizz to cleanse the palate but never steal the show, make these wines the ultimate crowd-pleasers.

As we think back, there have been many labels on our shelves over the years. We are naturally curious sorts and seek out new and unique producers in every genre in our effort to find the very best stuff out there. Heck in a world that doesn’t admit that they like ‘sweet’ wine, we have at times carried (and sold) a dozen examples of Moscato d’Asti. Where they are ‘on’, they are pretty irresistible. But there were only a handful that were always on the shelf. Saracco was always part of that inner circle. Paolo Saracco is the Moscato whisperer, and his wines hit that perfect balance of fruit, acidity and sparkle, with extra points for clarity and purity, year in and year out. He is a master of Moscato magic.

Ian d’Agata of Vinous Media has the same kind of passion for the subject as we do. A small excerpt from his piece on Moscato that he wrote last year sets the tone, “Asti and Moscato d’Asti are two of Italy’s best-known and most delicious sparkling wines. Light in alcohol and strong on flavor, Asti and Moscato d’Asti are the ultimate party wines, but they can be remarkably nuanced and terroir-specific, too. At their best, the wines offer aromas and flavors of orange blossom, pear, peach, sage, vanilla and other sweet spices, and are an absolute joy to drink on their own, as aperitifs or with fruit and cream-based desserts.”

His review of the outstanding 2017 Saracco Moscato d’Asti ended with the phrase, “For my money, this estate is the DRC of Moscato d’Asti.” That is pretty spectacular praise for any fermented beverage. Clearly his review of that particular bottling took the Moscato adulation to new heights, with all of the glowing words and the 93 point score. But we can’t really disagree. We are fans and will openly admit we love a good Moscato (How could you not?) and Paolo has been one of the stars for a long time.

But with the new vintage, Vinous’ D’Agata upped his own ante, writing of the 2018,” Luminous pale straw-green with golden tinges. Captivating aromas of orange blossom, lemon verbena, vanilla, sage and ripe grapefruit nectar. Dense, juicy and suave, presenting a multilayered, complex set of flavors similar to the aromas. The finish is very long, resonating with a floral topnote and delightful vibrancy. Outstanding, concentrated, complex and very pure Moscato d’Asti…94 points.” All of that prose, a point higher score, and still a price under $13!

There are probably a lot of people that tuned out when they noted this is about a fruity, frizzante white wine. Even more will be incensed that ‘big-time’ wine merchants would waste their time talking about such a wine to anyone other than ‘grandma’. Move over grandma, we’re right there with you. We have tasted the great wines of the world, and appreciate them for what they are. But there is nothing wrong with enjoying some sheer, unadulterated pleasure in the form of a well made Moscato d’Asti.

We have no problem professing our love for this intentionally pandering, joyous white. Saracco’s effort is, as always, seriously delicious. If you are already a fan of the genre, your path is clear. If not, you need to have the experience. Simply the Saracco Moscato d’Asti 2018 is one of the best versions from one of the best makers. Fresh, lively, low in alcohol and captivating, if the ‘DRC of Moscato’ doesn’t put a smile on your face, too bad for you. Joy in a bottle.

WHITE TABLECLOTH COSTIERES?

We have been following Michel Gassier’s work for over two decades, and he along with Grenache virtuoso Philippe Cambie, have established an enviable track record going back to the days when the wines were under the Chateau de Nages label (Michel’s home estate). Since 2006, the Nostre Pais reds have garnered 90-and-above scores all but twice, and on every vintage both great and small since 2010. As we have said many times about this wine that, at its normal ‘upper teens’ pricing, selling this kind of juice at this kind of price never gets old.

When it comes to wine, Michel Gassier ‘gets it’. When we visited his estate in 2000, he was already experimenting with micro-oxygenation, pretty advanced for the times and the region. Most folks don’t really have a feel for where Costieres de Nimes even is, but this guy has been A-game for a long time and, because he is working with a less than famous appellation, there is somewhat of a limit to what he can charge. That makes it an ideal scenario for consumers.

The Nostre Pais program has been like clockwork getting Wine Advocate scores predominantly between 91 and 93 points, even in difficult vintages. The exercise here is about introducing his newest red which we believe is among his best ever. We’ll also submit that Nostre Pais 2016 represents another level of refinement in his winemaking. White tablecloth Costieres des Nimes? Why not? Yet the wine is still at very palatable prices given the performance.

We are very pleased with this newest Nostre Pais wines overall, and with this red we see an even more notable step up. Typically in this part of the world, whether deliberately or not, size does matter for the critics. The region’s wines can sometimes be a bit direct and one dimensional and strictly rely on ‘punch’ to impress. This Nostre Pais is a notch better than their very fine efforts from past vintages, but here expect more balance, seamlessness and elegance. It plays well above its appellation and is more akin stylistically to a Chateauneuf from the cooler northern area. Very classy and complex, this is not your father’s Costieres.

One again, ‘the critics agree’. The Wine Advocate’s notes are, “A Grenache-led blend (55% Grenache Noir,25% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, 5% Carignan, and 5% Cinsault to be exact), the 2016 Costieres de Nimes Nostre Pais features compelling aromas of crushed stone, black olive and blueberry. It’s medium to full-bodied, with crunchy, fresh fruit and silky but firm tannins. It should drink well through 2025.”

Once again, the comments were quite consistent, with Jeb Dunnuck offering, “…Orange peel, black raspberries, exotic flowers, spice, and a limestone-like minerality all flow from this elegant, seamless, medium to full-bodied 2016 that has both freshness and richness. It’s a no-brainer purchase and will drink nicely for 5-6 years.”

Both pundits gave the Michel Gassier Costieres De Nimes Rouge Nostre Pais 2016 91-point reviews, but we actually think this one deserves better. Balance and refinement might have even put it the Nostre Pais at a little bit of a disadvantage in an arena that favors chunkier wines. We like this one even better than the critics for its polished presentation. It reaches another level stylistically and plays above its price point even more than its predecessors. This is a ‘wine for all seasons’ and a definite must for value and versatility. Like the man said…a no brainer.

A LOOK AHEAD

As has been our tradition over the years, we like to kick off January by telling our loyal customers exactly how we see things moving forward. As we have consistently said, we work for you. But we consider that job being to find the best wines and the best deals out there. The point of this piece is to let you know what to expect over the coming months which, in theory, might help you planning purchases over that time by going over important categories both here and upcoming. As you all know, wine is like few other things in that, for the most part (with the few exceptions of things like solera sherries and ports and non-vintage Champagne) when something is gone, you just can’t make more.

In the long view, for some categories your best choices aren’t necessarily ‘yet to come’. They are already here and are beginning to disappear. Take advantage of the 2016 Southern Rhones, 2016 Tuscans, 2015 and 2016 Bordeaux, and whatever scraps of 2015 red Burgundies and 2015 red Northern Rhones are still around. They represent not only the best available player for the here and now, but for at least the next twelve months. Those vintages all represent exceptionally successful harvests from a more historical perspective as well.

Things coming along that are of sweeping categorical importance are the 2015 Brunellos and 2016 Barolos. These, again, represent distinctive harvests from a broader perspective, as in being among the best of their genre over the last decade or two. There will be several exciting things coming out of both Argentina and Chile thanks to particularly successful vintages there in 2018 and 2019. We also look forward to the continued arrival of more Rioja Gran Reservas from the great 2010 vintage plus early releases (Crianza and Reserva level stuff) from 2015 and 2016, excellent harvests in much of Spain.

California has had a string of good vintages and there promises to be a number of noteworthy wines. For the most part, the only issue will be paying for them as vintners here still do not seem to believe their current price levels are unsustainable. On the bright side, we expect to find a few more instances of surprising ‘domestic’ value bottlings as lots of higher quality juice will quietly ‘leak’ out the back door because fewer consumers are enamored with paying $50-60 and up for median quality bottlings.

It is going to be a year of exceptional individual efforts. What we mean by that is that the coming year doesn’t boast the same number of compelling categories. As an example, the 2017 southern Rhones are very good, and they would have been much more heralded in many other decades. But the vintage ranks third behind 2010 and 2016 in recent times, and we would (and still will if given the opportunity) buy 2016s first. In 2017, however, some regions enjoyed very successful harvests and the best examples will provide some ‘must have’ individual efforts that could hold their own in any company, even if the year itself couldn’t legitimately be called a ‘vintage of the century’. The potential to excel is there but only for those who put forth an exceptional effort.

Also, as internet marketing changes the way wines are sold, selection will be one of the things that will suffer over the long run. Buying has become much more targeted and the dynamic doesn’t encourage a lot of browsing. Internet buyers, by and large, are much more specific in their searches, typically looking for an item of specific interest or responding to an item-targeted email. People wander ‘off course’ considerably less.

It changes the game completely from the early days of the internet (the 90s) when most sales were still face-to-face. It has swung greatly in the other direction. The Orange store ran roughly 50-50 online versus in-store, the Santa Ana location is closer to 80% ‘etail’, though that may change as the new tasting program gets into full swing. The bottom line, there are more great wines available than ever, and this year will be no different in that regard. But, for the most part, they won’t come in ‘waves’ but rather one at a time. As always, we will be on top of it. More next time. Happy New Year.