July 2022

‘THE BUNNY’ IS BACK PLUS OTHER VALUE CAB NOTES…

First, we’ll reiterate our broad massage. Thanks to the wildfires in Napa in 2020, there will be a lot less Cabernet on the market thanks to the residual smoke taint that affected the later-ripening Cabernet grapes. A lot of wineries simply did not produces Cabernet from the vintage, and were sure the juice is out there somewhere cleaned up in someone’s blend. That said, we suggest people be more attuned to the wines that are currently available, from prior, non-tainted (and actually quite good) vintages,

First up is the Coniglio Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, affectionately called ‘the Bunny’ around here (coniglio is the Italian word for ‘rabbit’). This winery has been a repeated feature over the years as they wind down what we presume are suspended operations. This family winery has favored a rich, well oaked style Cabernet for as long as we have dealt with them … a rich, savory, full-throttle mouthful that begs for some grilled beef.

The Coniglio Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2015 is all could you could ask of a Napa Cab. The nose speaks of spicy oak and a fruit component that centers on cassis and mulberry spice and a direct, full throttle approach. We’ve sold many manifestations over the years that are usually district focused. This one, from a respected and historic district, off the Silverado Trail has the structure one expects from mountain vineyards, yet it is approachable and enjoyable now. It bears that family resemblance to all of the Coniglio Cabs we have sold in the past…full flavored, well seasoned with French oak and with loads of character. It carries a $70 list price on their website but, because of our long term relationship, we can sell you this delicious Napa Cabernet, with bottle age, for a lot less ($32.98). The timing couldn’t be better.

The wines of Rowland Cellars in the Napa Valley (Ramspeck, Cenay, Rowland) aren’t widely known, but they have been on our radar for a long time and we have tasted a number of offerings over the years. They are always solid with the occasional ‘hit’. The Ramspeck Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019 really hit the spot, a particularly timely effort given the current outlook for Napa Cabernet. WInemaker/owner Gerry Rowland is Australian born and got his degree at the prestigious Roseworthy College in Adelaide. Plump, honest, pure varietal black fruits laced with some spice and flacks of minerality, this is a pleasing, round, user-friendly Napa Cab at a great price ($26.98).

Just a reminder, we got in the last bits of the Thread Feather Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District 2019. The Thread Feather lineup, from the obvious well-connected negociant firm Flight Wine Company. To quote ourselves from an earlier email, “Simply put, this wine blew us away, and you know we don’t say that kind of thing all that often. We’ve had plenty of top-end, ‘reserve’ bottlings from Stag’s Leap wineries at three to five times the price that don’t deliver this much character and joy. A gorgeous, hedonistic Cabernet even in its impetuous youth, at $39.98, you’ll feel like you got away with something that was mismarked.”

Finally, as an early warning, you’re likely to see an email pretty soon on the Marietta Cabernet Sauvignon Arme 2019. The ‘Brothers Balbro’ are in quite the groove right now, churning out one jaw dropping value after another. You might recall their highly reviewed 2018 Cabernet Arte from last year and their 95-point Old Vine Red from very recently. Well their 2019 Cabernet Sauvingnon Arte finished in the money again. From Wine Advocate, ” The 2019 Armé Cabernet Sauvignon has a medium ruby-purple color and layered aromas of red and black currants, violet, iron, underbrush and mushrooms. The medium-bodied palate is pleasantly rustic and a touch chewy, with bright acidity, pretty floral perfume and an earth-laced finish…94 Points.” From Sonoma, only $24.98.

SPARKLING NEWS

We’ve been fans of the unique Champagne styles of Henri Giraud and mentioned their reappearance after a long absence from the marketplace as we talked about their delicious entry-level Henri Giraud Brut Esprit Nature. They put a couple of really interesting higher end efforts on the table this week that deserved their own attention.

The Henri Giraud Brut Hommage Au Pinot Noir NV is 100% Pinot Noir done in an unusual style that sees eleven months in oak followed by six months in tank, an approach that is much more common for white Burgundy. According to Antonio Galloni, “In fact, I have never seen this élevage in Champagne. No matter, though, it all works.” That it does. There’s plenty of savory red fruit to behold, ripe plum skin and dark cherry, and plenty going on with the weight on the palate, silky mousse, and notes of spice. Lifted and fresh, it also gives you some of that vinous character that suggest this could play nicely with a number of dishes. We took an immediate liking to it and thought the style, flair, and distinctiveness of this bubbly more than justified the tab.

Speaking of Champagnes with oak, we had the great fortune to revisit the wine that started it all with us all those years ago. The Henri Giraud Brut Grand Cru Fut de Chene MV 16 gets plenty of attention from the wine media with this version garnering a James Suckling 97, Antonio Galloni 97 and Wine Advocate 95. But it really is ‘all that’ with the 70% new oak creaming out the mid-palate in such a seductive way, the mousse so fine and silky and the finish a bit longer and more complex thanks to the process. A lot of folks don’t know this distinctive bubbly yet because it hasn’t been on the market that long and doesn’t have a ‘marketing team’ behind it like the ‘big brands’. There’s a few folks out there trying to marketing expensive, not that great Champagne with gimmicks and over the top packaging. This, however, is the real deal and we’ll put it up against any Grande Marque. Delicious.

On the other end of the price spectrum, we’ve gotten the newest version of the ‘who says you can’t buy French Champagne for under $20?’, the
Champagne Gouet-Henry Brut NV . It’s a blend of 50% Pinot Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay done in a clean, fruit-driven style. You’ll probably be seeing an email on this in short order but here’s an early warning. Yes, real Champagne, that tastes like real Champagne, for $19.98.

ANOTHER CAPTIVATING 2019 VOSNE ROMANEE

First we’ll again make the point that, while we know our way around Burgundy pretty well, it isn’t necessarily our mission to focus on higher end fare. We are more the guys who look first for that diamond in the rough that doesn’t cost a car payment to purchase and plays above its station. But every so often we run across one of those ‘must have’ bottles that’s approaching three-digit price territory. Vosne Romanee is expensive real estate anyway and the produce from here is among the most sought after and highest priced. So something like this, that exhibits the personality of the village so eloquently, is very desirable. This version also comes from a source that has an exceptional track record for engaging reds which is even more important in a great vintage like 2019. Though most Burgundy fans know this, here’s a brief ditty on the producer. Maison Camille Giroud ranks among the most venerable boutique négociants in Burgundy. Founded in 1865, Giroud earned an impeccable reputation over the last 150 years as a specialist in traditional vins de garde. In 2001, Giroud was acquired by a group of investment bankers led by wine collector Joe Wender and his wife, Napa cult vintner Ann Colgin. They hired wunderkind David Croix not only to manage the distinguished cellar but also to begin acquiring grapes and making first-class wines. Croix accomplished this goal with flying colors and has now been succeeded by the highly-talented Carel Voorhuis. The Les Chalandins is located on the Flagey-Echezeaux side of the village at an altitude of 245 meters on a hill that faces south-east and extends up to the lower part of Clos Vougeout. It sits on deep clay-silt soil laid atop the marl of Bresse. Barrel notes from Neal Martin of Vinous tell the story, “The 2019 Vosne Romanee Les Chalandins is matured with just under 50% whole cluster and 20% new oak. It ha a well-defined bouquet of brambly fruit, rose petal. and crushed rock aromas. The palate is medium bodied with supple tannins, a rounded texture and a harmonious silky smooth finish. A lovely wine from Camille Giroud...90-92 points.” Nice cellar notes from Burghound as well from a year and a half ago, “A spicy and very Vosne-like nose freely offers up its aromas of black pinot fruit, plum, hoisin and exotic tea. The suave and highly seductive flavors coat the palate with sappy dry extract while the finish displays focused power on the mildly warm finale. This needs to develop more depth but it should be able to do so if allowed a few years of cellaring.” The scores are pretty strong considering the ‘hierarchy’ as these folks make a lot of wines and a number of Grand and Premier Crus. The Camille Giroud Vosne Romanee Les Chalandins 2019 is everything you could want from this part of the world. That layered, super-spiced red cherry fruit that is distinct to this village, that lush yet suave, nuanced palate, it’s all here in an engaging style that should age nicely as well, though like most 2019s it is quite pleasing already.

TASTY BARGAIN SUMMER QUAFFERS FROM PORTUGAL

We aren’t going to write one of our epic tales here. There aren’t any rock star winemakers, famous vineyards, or legendary reviews here. We’re just going to say a few words about a couple of low-priced, delicious quaffers for holiday weekends and summer in general. When it comes to delightful, bright casual quaffers, the Portuguese are a great source.

Muralhas de Moncao has been a regular player for quite some time. Their newest release, the Muralhas de Moncao Vinho Verde Moncao e Melgaco 2021 is everything you could ask for in a casual summer sipper. Bright nose of tropical fruit and floral notes, lifted presentation of white stone fruits and spices, a little impression of fizz, this is clean, refreshing, but also has enough body to engage serious wine folk. A blend of 85% Alvarinho (we have also sold their varietal Alvarinho) and 15% Trajadura, 12.5% ABV, it doesn’t pretend to be a wine to contemplate but it serves its purpose well.

What we had not seen, and which was a welcome addition to this easy drinking lineup, was the Muralhas de Moncao Vinho Verde Rose Moncao e Melgaco 2021. An inviting rosy pink, this has the some kind of QQ (‘quaffabilty quotient’) as its white Vinho Verde stablemate, fresh, lively, light on its feet, but the flavor profile suggests more strawberry and fresh melon. A blend of Alvarelhao, Pedral, and Vinhao, all indigenous red grapes. With an ABV of 11%, it is a great choice chilled for warm day outdoors. A faint impression of sweetness it has the cut to be food friendly as well.