Tag: leoube

ROSE TIME: PART TWO

As we said last time, the whole rosé program got started late this year thanks to dual mitigating factors, the early threat of tariffs which interrupted the normal flow of goods (importers did not want to be caught with stuff ‘on the water’ they couldn’t divert) and COVID-19 which screwed up everything. Things are finally starting to dribble in and, thus far, we really like 2019 as a vintage for pinks. Here are some new ones to consider.

The Leoube Rosé Cotes De Provence 2019 has been a steady presence on our shelves for six of the last seven vintages since we first found it, and this edition is particularly appealing. To refresh the memory, the folks that bought the Chateau in 1997 made their money in organic groceries. So their attitude towards organic farming is pretty much ‘hard wired’. Also the property is located next to one of the top vineyard sites for the famous Domaine Ott. As a matter of fact, Jean-Jacques Ott of Domaine Ott wanted to sell his property (and did) but still wanted to stay in the business. The new owners of Leoube just so happened to be looking for a winemaker at the exact same moment. So, Jean-Jacques and his son Romain headed over to Leoube after selling their eponymous property to Roederer Champagne and boom, the magie began.

Now, father and son Ott work the vineyards and make the wine at their next-door neighbor’s place. A crisper and more delicate style with a pale salmon hue, it is mainly Grenache and Cinsault with bits of Syrah and Mourvedre. Light, dry, fresh, berries, apricot, and citrus, and a touch of salinity in the finish, it is quite civilized and feels even a bit more fruit driven and weightier than last year’s very successful model.

Based on our tastings of a wide range of 2019s, we had great expectations for the ‘house favorite’ Leoube. At the same time we were presented the Proprieta Sperino Rosato Piemonte Rosa del Rosa 2019 that we knew nothing about (we had seen the estate before from another small supplier but not this rosé). A unique blend (Nebbiolo and Vespolina) from an area certainly not famous for pink wine ( the Castello quarter of Lessona (Biella) in the foothills of the North Piedmont Alps), it made quite the impression even alongside a very engaging version of a perennial favorite. . 

It turned out to be something of a revelation with bright yet piquant red melon and berry fruit, something of a ‘mountain’ texture, an entertaining interplay between the fresh, ripe fruit and savory/mineral notes with a little kick of salinity on the finish. Every sip offers a little different twist and it is both delightful and thought provoking. Only a week later, this wine came out on top of a tasting of Italian pinks on Vinous Media.

The review was as good as any sales pitch we could write, “The 2019 Sperino Rosa del Rosa is stunning, opening to reveal depths of ripe peach and strawberry, with hints of cumin, ginger, dried orange, and roses. It floods the palate with silky textures, tugging at the cheeks as zesty acids settle in, then soothing through sweet liquid florals and ripe fruit. The finish is long, showing a hint of fine tannins, yet not austere; instead tactile, perfectly balanced with a hint of savory spice and just begging me to take another sip. This is a blend of Nebbiolo and Vespolina, which is gorgeous right now, but it may even get better with a little time in the cellar. Frankly, it was hard to put the glass down…93 points.”

We are big fans of Bandol rosés, those Mourvedre-based pinks that have a charm all their own. The problem is that a lot of them sell for $30 and up. That definitely drives up the cost of ‘casual’ warm weather quaffing. That made the discovery of the Moulin de la Roque Bandol Rosé 2019 all the more timely. It’s definitely a legit example of the breed with that slightly musky red melon edge to the predominantly red berry fruit and the requisite little bite at the end. In the middle, thanks to the vintage, it’s pretty direct and fruit driven, and definitely plays well at the table. This blend of 60% Mourvedre, 30% Grenache and 10% Cinsault should only become more complex over the coming months. A Wine Enthusiast ’90’ already, very early in the game with comments, ” Attractively structured with a layer of tannins from the Mourvèdre, this wine has bite as well as red-berry acidity. Richness gives the wine weight and makes it an ideal partner at the table.”

The Penya Rosé Vin De Pays Des Cotes Catalanes 2019 is something of a throwback. Dan Kravitz of hand-picked selections is particularly adept at finding value, and you couldn’t ask for more from something that’s under $10. Admittedly location can add to the price without necessarily adding value. Provence is the ‘proven’ source for pink wine, and commends a bit of a premium. On the other side of the country, in Cotes Catalanes in the Roussillon (the ‘other’ South of France), they have distinctive soils and Mediterranean influence, and can do the rose thing as well. This blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah is boisterous and outgoing, sporting cherry, berry and red melon fruit with flecks of savory and a touch of stone. Unlike most things you will find in this price range, the fruit is clean and genuine. Superb value party pink.

PINK WINE TIME: PART 2

Muga Rioja Rosado 2018 -This one just rolled in, making it a little late to the ‘party’ but the distinctive styling and lifted freshness make this a fine summer quaff and the pricing has made it a consistent favorite over the last few seasons. This is made as a rose (as opposed to being the result of a saignee or bleeding of red grapes) and the blend is 60% Garnacha,
30% Viura and 10% Tempranillo. The usage of the white Viura gives this rose some impressions of white stone fruits like white peach to go along with the more traditional berry flavors. Lifted, fresh, and very food-friendly, this is another value performer.

Terrebrune Bandol Rosé 2018 –As we spoke about the Pradeaux in part 1 of this rosé focused piece, we mentioned that the 2017 may have been our favorite of the lot for that vintage. In the 2018 lineup, this could well be the MVP (Most Valuable Pink). These folks have been doing great work for a while but the 2018 just seems to have a little bit more ‘pop’ and vigorous yet engaging fruit. As is the norm, Mourvedre (50%) is the star of this show with the other half of the wine is split roughly equally between Grenache and Cinsault. Half of the juice is saignee (bled from the red grapes) while the other half is made directly into rosé. Limestone and organic farming are key elements in this story, with this pink as the happy ending. Equal impressions of both berries and yellow stone fruits like peach and apricot, that cool, funky little twist is the Mourvedre speaking its piece, and there’s a nice touch of minerality to the finish.

La Mordoree Cotes du Rhone Rosé 2018-This family winery has been a Winex favorite for a long time and this is the entry-level bottling among 4-5 different rosés that can range up to $50. We like this one because it gives the Mordoree experience at the most attractive price, and this 2018 is the most engaging we have had in some time. Their pinks have a huge following and for good reason. This version is made up of 40% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 15% Cinsault, 10% Carignan, and 5% Mourvedre. In the glass the Grenache appears to be the lead singer, delivering a broad, juicy blast of decidedly red berry fruit. It’s rounder in the mouth than some but still maintains plenty of freshness and finishes with a touch of garrigue. Far too easy to drink and a strong choice for under $20.

Leoube Rosé Cotes De Provence 2018 –Our lineup of pinks changes every year based on our tastings, so it is important to note that Leoube has been on the roster five of the last six vintages since we first discovered it. Though it doesn’t make much of a point of it, the folks that bought the Chateau in 1997 made their money in organic groceries. Also the property is located next to one of the top sites for the famous Domaine Ott. As a matter of fact, Jean-Jacques Ott of Domaine Ott wanted to sell his property but still wanted to stay in the business. The new owners of Leoube just so happened to be looking for a winemaker at the exact same moment. So, Jean-Jacques and his son Romain head over to Leoube after selling their eponymous property to Roederer Champagne and boom, magic. Now, father and son Ott work the vineyards and make the wine at their next-door neighbor. A crisper and more delicate style with a pale salmon hue, it is mainly Grenache and Cinsault with bits of Syrah and Mourvedre. Light, dry, fresh, berries, apricot, and citrus, and a touch of salinity in the finish, it is quite civilized.

Nervi Conterno Il Rosato Piedmont 2018-You can make rose out of anything, as the market continues to prove. But not all of those efforts are compelling. But there are a few cases where a non-mainstream example shines brightly. We have seen rose of Nebbiolo before, but not very many and not very often. The way this one came out, there might be a lot more folks trying their hand at it, though hitting this mark will be no picnic. The grapes come from the Nervi estate in Gattinara that was acquired by the Giacomo Conterno estate, hand-harvested with the intent to make a pink wine, fermented in stainless steel and then exposed to the lies for four months. Made from 90% Nebbiolo and 10% Uva Rara, this has an inviting nose of melon, berry, wild herbs and that perfumy floral aspect that is Nebbiolo. Deceptively broad on the palate, with plenty of energy underneath, this delivers in an aperitif scenario but has enough substance to play with some meat and sausage dishes. A 91 score from vinous. A cool diversion in pinks.