We usually like to give a detailed analysis from our perspective as to what we expect to be the most interesting categories we expect to see this year. As buyers, planning for deeper dives into certain areas is an important part of the business model. We also presume this information will help collectors make plans for their own acquisitions as well. This time around we’re going to keep it a little tighter with regards to the focus and concentrate on the biggest areas of interest.
Here at home, we’re in the middle of a fabulous, if a little bit different run on Cabernet Sauvignon. After the uncertainty of the 2020s with regard to wildfires, smoke taint, and other issues with the vintage, the prospects of 2021 are exciting. But we noted from the start that this is a little different take on Napa Cabernet, with a little lower alcohols, less bombast to the fruit, and more elegance to the overall wines. We aren’t trying to sell green edged, acidic reds as ‘food wines’. There are plenty of sommeliers to do that. The 2021s have plenty of substance and ripe fruit flavors. But they are longer, sleeker, and more refined, more resembling Bordeaux from a riper vintage than the typical bowl-you-over style we are known for.
Here’s an overview piece from Antonio Galloni that, while the message is the same, approaches it from a little different angle, “After the brutal 2020 vintage, Napa Valley fans will be thrilled to start exploring the 2021s. The 2021s are aromatic, refined and wonderfully expressive. I found many wines to be truly exceptional both in terms of quality and what seems to be a more finessed approach than in the past, something that is evident at many estates. Vintage 2022 presented more than its fair share of challenges, so 2021 is most certainly the vintage to focus on…
“In tasting, the 2021s show tremendous energy and finesse. As noted last year, the wines share some attributes with other drought vintages, specifically 2013 and 2014. But there are some major differences, too…” These 2021s are attractive now but also have the right proportions to age nicely and, while we always manage to find good stuff, 2022 is more of a mixed bag.
On Bordeaux, your have a too-much-good-stuff scenario, which is the opposite of a problem. First you have three outstanding vintages before you, 2018, 2019, and the currently arriving 2020s. Global warming not withstanding, we can’t recall three vintages of this kind of quality in succession in the decades we have been doing this. With the exception of the 2020s, which are still rolling in, what is here is generally all there is going to be so have a good look and take the opportunity to augment your cellar…or start one. The 2021s by and large aren’t earth shattering, but the reviews are out on the 2022 futures and it is a vintage that also has some gems.
The Wine Advocate review on the 2022 Bordeaux will give you the perspective, “At its best, this is a vintage of remarkable concentration, energy and harmony; but far from forgiving mistakes, 2022 punished them, and the less-successful wines are jammy, astringent and rustic. And where sunny vintages such as 2018 sometimes efface differences between sites and styles, 2022 has thrown them into heightened relief. This is true at every level of the hierarchy, and terroirs conventionally thought to be of only modest potential were also capable of delivering brilliant results this year…” Lots of options with Bordeaux.
Burgundy as well offers lovely options among the 2019s and 2020s that are on hand though there are still a few things on the market that will show up a little later. The 2021 whites are exciting while we are being selective with the 2021 reds. For the most part the ’21 red are ‘like Burgundies of old’ in that they are sleeker and less ample but crisp and elegant. Most don’t possess the punch of the other vintages we mentioned.
We have had our first arrivals of the 2022s which, thus far, look like a suppler version of the 2015s which means they will be flattering early on and, hopefully because the vintage was generous volume-wise, prices will be mediated to some extent. Juicy, plump Pinot Noir is always welcome.
Here’s a snippet that tells the story, “Generous yields brought respite from the relative traumas of high temperatures, dry conditions, devastating frosts and regrettably empty cellars of recent vintages – and then there’s the quality of the wines too. For most vignerons, 2022 was a gift. The best Pinot Noir this year is joyous. Fresh and vibrant, with ripe yet crunchy fruit, incredibly fine but present tannin structure, moderate alcohols, and often with a saline, savoury or bitter edge: these are modern, climate-change era wines, yet remain classically proportioned.
“The 2022s are almost irresistible from barrel, many of them so juicy and delicious that they are quite frankly hard to spit out. But don’t let their approachability fool you into thinking they won’t age, for everything is there in the best wines. As Jean-Marie Fourrier noted, they’re the sort of wines that are so good young that you will likely regret drinking them so early.” More good Burgundy? Yes, please.
The 2021 Pinot Noirs from both California and Oregon are special, with plenty of bright fruit and a lifted demeanor. The 2022s are a bit more of a mixed scenario so playing the ‘bird in the hand’ in this category is the smart move.
Times are promising in Italy with 2019, 2020, and 2021 in the prime northern regions all offering exciting options but relative to each vintage’s differing profiles. There are 2019 Barolos on hand as well as expectations for 2020 Barbarescos and 2019 Brunellos in the first half of the year. As a heads up, though there hasn’t been a lot written so far, but we are very excited about the 2021 vintage in both Piedmont and Tuscany based on the ‘little’ wines we have tasted so far.
Those are the ‘biggest’ topics as we see them. As always there will be plenty of stuff going on and our expectations is that we will find a number of exciting things from the usual suspects (Spain, South America, New Zealand, Australia, et. al) as viticulture, winemaking, and logistics continue to improve and, for the most part, generally good weather and fewer (though more violent) climate quirks provide overall better results for wine overall. Don’t be surprised if you see some things from less familiar places like South Africa, Greece, and Georgia (the country not the state) as they continue to spread their wings. As always, we will be there to filter out the chaff and provide the best wines and the best deals out there. Happy 2024.
