Truth be told, I wasn’t enthusiastic about 2020 as a rose vintage early on. Somehow they didn’t seem to possess the meat or the moxie of the better vintages. As time has passed, however, they have come together and gained depth beyond expectations.
The tariffs caused things to got off to a late start on imported rosés, and the subsequent shipping backlog has delayed arrivals even further not only to us, but to the reviewers as well. So there aren’t a lot of notes out there right now on pink wines, but we suspect they’ll be along. But we found plenty of tasty things to present so enjoy…
Chateau de Pampelonne Cotes de Provence 2020-We’ve had the Cotes de Provence in the lineup several times over the last couple of decades. It is the exemplary version of Provence rose, bright, fresh, versatile and well priced (that last one is particularly relevant). This vineyard, with a view of the Mediterranean, was first planted after World War I and the estate dates back to the mid-1800s. The blend here is 40% Grenache, 30% Cinsualt, 20% Syrah and 10% the unique, historic grape Tibouren.
Maybe it was just a good day, but this one struck us as one of the more engaging efforts from this historic chateau. The traditional red berry fruit is the central theme but floral notes, orange, and a little salinity all make their presence felt in the bright, appealing blend. A crowd-pleasing choice for under $20.
La Remise de Morderee Vin de France 2020 – We’ve got our Mordoree two ways this time around. The La Remise de Mordoree Rose 2020 has that classic Mordoree style but a different profile because of the unusual combination of grapes here, 40% Grenache, 30% Marselan (Marselan is a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache), and 30% Merlot. That is also why it is labelled ‘vin de France’ as some of the grapes aren’t ‘recognized’ for the appellation. In any case, it is a perfectly delightful pink wine, the unique varietals giving the wine a bit more drive to play against some lighter meat dishes (though it’s perfectly fine as an aperitif), and the $15 fare giving you a rather modest entry fee into the highly respected wines of Mordoree.
It’s from 20-year-old vines planted in sand with some clay and, for the record, hand-harvested, destemmed, direct pressed and estate-bottled. Red berries, maybe a little blood orange, some peppery notes, and a lifted, citrusy finish make for an interesting ‘value’ entrant from a top house.
Domaine de la Morderee Cotes-du-Rhone Rose La Dame Rousse 2020-Always a favorite around here, we select different offerings from among their roses every year but there is always Mordoree on the shelf. The Dame Rousse Cotes du Rhone is the traditional ‘workhorse’ of their rose lineup (they make five) and not far behind their Tavel qualitatively and in under $20 as well (the Tavels are $35-45 these days). Grenache leads the blend at 40% with the rest 35% Syrah, 15% Cinsault, 5% Carignan, and 5% Mourvedre farmed organically and harvested from a variety of terroirs.
A little more weight and density here, with strawberry and red melon the main thrust of the flavors with blood orange, floral aromas, savory herbs and some mineral notes. While this is a great producer on several levels, their pinks are definitely ‘blue chips’ of the category.
Bonny Doon Vineyard Vin Gris de Cigare 2020– We have tasted and sold many vintages of this over the years, but this one struck us as a cut above many of the recent renditions. The blend, from five different Central Coast AVAs, seems scattered but the wine is anything but. The mix is 71% Grenache, 11% Cinsault, 5% Clairette, 5% Grenache Blanc, 4% Mourvedre, and 4% Vermentino and the interplay of this wide varietal range presents juxtaposing impressions of berries, white stone fruit, and citrus with accents of savory spice. This is California rose with a definite French accent that comes together in an appealing way, with an engaging juicy core and snappy highlights. A high point in this series, it shows Randall Grahm still takes the project seriously.
Unlike a lot of Euro pinks that were, until recently, stuck on boats, this one has a nice review from Josh Reynolds at Vinous, “Light, shimmering orange. Fresh red berry and citrus fruit aromas are complemented by suggestions of candied rose and pungent herbs. Silky and open-knit, showing good depth to the raspberry, cherry and bitter orange pith flavors. Tightens up slowly on a long, spice-inflected finish that leaves a gently sweet red fruit note behind…90 points.”
Domaine La Roncalier Tavel Rose 2020– Typically one of the better values among the now trendy Tavels, the 2020 La Rocaliere is a great representation of the concentrated, punchy style that caused people to take notice of it in the first place. The estate, which dates back to 1995 owns 20 ha in both Tavel and Lirac. The Tavel holdings traverse three different terroirs, those differences adding complexity to the blend of 60% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, and 10% Syrah.
One of the deeper colored ‘pinks’ on the shelf (leaning towards ruby), the visual gives you notice that this will be a more substantial rose in the glass. Weighty and fresh at the same time, there’s abundant cherry and strawberry fruit laced with a stony minerality and violet notes.
Los Arrotos del Pendon Leon 2020– Yeah, we know we have complained that it seems everybody is trying to get into the action with rose. But when someone as accomplished as Raul Perez does it, you have to pay attention. Of course, it is a rose born of Raul’s singular vision. It’s from 100% Prieto Picudo from very old vines in stony clay at high-altitude (over 2500 ft above seal level). Macerated for two days on the skins before bleeding off, fermented with only indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, raised on the fine lees for four months in tank, then bottled without fining or filtration, it’s the kind of outside-the-box creation one expects from Perez.
So where’s Leon? Everywhere, it seems. It’s a huge area that stretches across northwestern Spain from Rioja to the Portuguese border and most of the way from Madrid to the north and includes Ribera del Duero and Toro. So it’s anybody’s guess where Raul found this vineyard of old Prieto Picudo. Preito Picudo is indigenous to the region and relatively rare and yields darkly colored reds.
This wine itself is reminiscent of a wine we sold years ago from Australia from Charles Melton. It is unapologetically dark rose, probably better described as ‘light red’ rather than ‘pink’. It has a rich center and weighty feel for a rosé but there is sneaky, well-embedded acidity to give it the necessary lift. This wants to be red wine and the flavors are more vinous than most in the category, yet the texture is smooth and slippery. Dark melon, mulberry, restrained minerality and a hint of wild herb, this is a substantial and delicious addition to the lineup this year. Of course we have come to expect that sort of thing from Raul.