white

A WONDERFUL, ‘HISTORIC’ WHITE FROM ALSACE

There are many less traveled paths in the wine world where some truly special things can happen. We feel it is our duty as wine merchants to point things like that out for you consideration. Sometimes we wonder why we do it. Guess it’s just the wide-eyed geekiness that we still haven’t lost after all these years. Take this wine. A Alsace white made by a cooperative without a varietal designation for over $30? What next? Hungarian Cabernet Franc? Oh wait, we already did that. Orange wines from Georgia (the country not the state)? Yeah, did that too. If it’s worth knowing about, we’re on it, and this striking little gem is definitely something worth knowing about.

We’ll start with the producer. Cave de Ribeauvillé is a well-run cooperative in Alsace. In their words, Cave de Ribeauvillé covers a unique vineyard of 235 hectares with 8 Grands Crus and numerous high-value terroirs. The entire estate is managed by a quality charter which guarantees manual harvesting, strict control of yields, work in the vineyard using sustainable management or organic farming. All the grapes are brought to the press in whole bunches and the juice then flows by simple gravity into the vats. Thanks to state-of-the-art equipment, the wines from Cave de Ribeauvillé respect the purity of the grape variety and the identity of each terroir. The wines are frank, straight, fresh, fruity and express all the richness of the great Alsatian terroirs.

In other words this isn’t some local cooperative just phoning it in as some do and we have brought to your attention a number of high functioning operations like this over the years like Produttori di Barbaresco, Terlano, and Domaine Wachau to name a few. This is our first experience with Cave de Ribeauvillé but, if they can do things like this, we need to dig a little deeper. The cooperative itself dates back to 1895.

As to the wine itself, this is a stylistic take on the work of Alsace icon Marcell Diess. Deiss’s thing is to highlight terroirs in great vineyards. In this mindset, he does not highlight specific varietals but harvests the various grapes from a vineyard as a field blend and identifies them by the name of the vineyard only. These wines are dazzling and highly sought after, as well as not cheap. The Clos de Zahnacker is planted to Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer.

The history of this Clos is pretty interesting. The oldest writings date its origins back to the 8th century, to the time when Benedictine monks divided their time between prayer and work on the land. The creation of this walled vineyard is attributed to monk-knight Martin Zahn after returning from the crusades. It was a subject of dispute among the Lords of Ribeauville in the Middle Ages and was said to be a favorite of the Sun King Louis XIV. It has been a part of the Cave de Ribeauvillé since 1965.

The nose of the Cave de Ribeauvillé Clos du Zahnacker 2015 speaks of lemon zest, tea, mineral and stone fruits with faint hints of lychee. In the mouth is it rich, rather ample, a little exotic, yet with just the right amount of lift to support its frame and maintain appropriate freshness. It almost feels the weight of a vendage tardive but isn’t particularly sweet and it is loaded with character. At age 8 it shows no signs of fading and has palate coating extract. We’ve had a few nice surprises from the 2015s recently.

We found one review from Wine Enthusiast that kind of captures the essence of this grand but surprising effort, “Chalk, chamomile tincture and dried lemon peel have immense lift on the nose of this wine. They also pervade the bright, balm-like but concentrated palate with their aromatic intensity. This wine is fluid and layered, showing signs of evolution that is set to continue for many years. Gentle sweetness balances the bracing freshness and makes this a real experience. The finish is off dry but very balanced and long. Drink until 2040…94 points.”

We don’t have a lot of it but we had to tell the story.

ENCORE DU GALOPIERE-KILLER BURGS AT LITTLE PRICES

We’ll make our basic case right up front. As we have explained many times, ‘value’ is a relative term. In no place is that harder to define than Burgundy but we think we have a pretty good formula. Simply, find a talented producer that hasn’t been discovered yet, and get them to the back door as cheaply as possible. If you are looking for labels that will impress your friends, notoriety costs. If you are looking for delicious Burgundy, our method works pretty well.

We introduced this new (to us) label, Galopiere, a few weeks ago with a blockbuster Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Clos St. Jean 2020 for a price less than what you’d pay for a villages bottling from some high profile producer. Burgundy is packed with small, unknown, high quality producers. The trick is finding them. Galopiere was quite the find.

The Fournier family, who own and produce Galopiere, have been in the wine trade for over a century starting with Eusebe Fournier in 1882. A century later, in 1982, Gilbert Fournier’s parents gave him a plot of Bourgogne Rouge. Since that time Gilbert has been expanding the domaine, adding plots in Meursault, Ladoix, Aloxe Corton, Savigny-les-Beaune, and Pommard. He added this plot of Chassagne Clos St. Jean in 2010 and a parcel of Chassagne Morgeot in 2016. The estate now totals 11 hectares (about 27 acres).

Their vineyard philosophy involves taking things backward. They have spent great effort to recreate the flora and fauna of an earlier time with the idea that this natural, historic harmony is important for the vine’s performance. Like a lot of vintners, their intent is to reflect and express the terroir. They aren’t interested in talking about oak regimens. In their words, “our wines offer a journey on the original typicity of the terroirs and not on an excessive oakiness which hides everything, even what is missing.” They harvest by hand and perform several ‘sorts’ and ferment with natural yeasts.

Naturally, given the success of that Chassagne, we went back to our purveyor to inquire what other little gems they might have from this promising source. Their response was this pair of wines, though quantities precluded a broad email offer.

The Domaine de la Galopiere Savigny-les-Beaune 2019 is sources from three different vineyards, contiguous Aux Fourches and Les Pimentiers and Dessus des Vermot at the western end of the appellation. The harvest is manual, fermentation is done in traditional open vats and the finished wine sees 12 months in barrels ranging from 10-20% new.

Clean, pure, and expressive, this has loads of bouyant dark cherry fruit as a main thrust with tender edges and an efficient but not intrusive lift of acidity. Subtle notes of forest floor and fresh tobacco punctuate the fruit tones but it is a bright display of that hedonistic fruit aspect that has been a consistent theme of the 2019s. Delicious red Burgundy for under $30? Yes please.

The Domaine de la Galopiere Ladoix Blanc 2020 is a bit of a different proposition in that is from the best white wine vintage in Burgundy since 2014, but with perhaps a little more flesh than the typical ’14. From a single climat more or less in the middle of the hill (Le Clou) with classic clay-limestone and marl soils. If you recall some of the unique Ladoix bottlings we have featured from further up the hill that have profiles that remind one of Corton-Charlemagne, this one has a little of that almond and white flower note as well. The nose is delicate with spice, orange, and white stone fruit elements as well. In the mouth it’s quite flavorful, fresh and focused yet elegant and light on its feet. Very pretty Chardonnay in a style that can only be done here, and nicely priced under $35.

As we said before, since this is our first go-round with Galopiere we have no feel for how much two excellent vintages contributed to the outcomes here. We know that our sourcing had a lot to do with the great prices. But given what we’ve seen so far, you can bet we are gong to keep an eye on these folks moving forward and enjoy these for now.

NOT YOUR GRANDMA’S SOAVE

Soave has come a long way since 1970s when the market was saturated with versions from large industrial producers. A few dedicated vintners paid attention to detail, lowered yields, and today’s Soave bears no resemblance to the innocuous versions of the genre from yesteryear. One of our consistent favorites from what one might call the new age Soave is from Inama.

They have been growing grapes in the region since Roman times, with the DOC being established here in 1968. Garganega is the principal grape but the appellation allows for Trebbiano di Soave as well as Chardonnay to be grown. The secret to the best Soaves is using only Garganega, farming modest yields, and having prime vineyards in the Classico zone. Giusseppe Inama realized this early on and starting pruchasing small plot within the designated area in the 1960s.

The 2019 Inama Soave is one of the most compelling versions we have had from a producer that has been a staple around here. It simply has more of everything. Floral notes, pear, and white stone fruits invite you in via the very attractive nose. The same flavors, plus a subtle streak of minerality (the soils are red clay and volcanic tufo) present themselves on the palate. There is weight, substance, and freshness, the type character that can only be achieved through careful farming and meticulous winemaking.

No tricks here. This is a clean, naked wine at a sensational price ($12.98). It also has an enthusiastic review from James Suckling, “Dried-apple and pureed-pear aromas follow through to a dense, full body with layers of fruit and intense flavors. Such focus and purity. Benchmark, classic Soave. …93 Points.” Fire this up with some white wine fare and they will sing together.

EXCITING ‘INSIDER’ FIND IN CHABLIS

There are always new things to discover with wine. As odd as it may sound, the other day we ran across a designation we had never seen before. Now that, in and of itself, isn’t necessarily shocking. There are lots of new things coming to light in wine as new areas and producers are appearing as the world becomes smaller and more connected. But we are talking about Chablis, a place that has existed as a wine appellation for centuries within the same boundaries more or less, and our buying team that, combined, is approaching a century of experience.

The producer is one that is pretty familiar around here, Chateau des Malandes in Chablis. Founded in 1949 by the grand parents of the current owners, it was run until 2018 by their daughter, Lyne Marchive. We have sold the wines for years and they have always had a very appealing, some might say ‘feminine’ style. Malandes Chablis, while portraying the various terroirs from which they came, always had in common a tender, fruit-driven palate feel and rather gentle demeanor. Thus far not much has changed under the guidance of son Richard and daughter Amandine, and that’s a good thing.

The estate has holdings in a number of Premier Cru climats including Vau de Vey, Lechets, Montmains, Fourchaume and Mont de Milieu, as well as Grand Crus Vaudesir and Le Clos. But the subject of this piece is, as we said, something we had never seen until this bottling, the Domaine de Malandes Chablis ‘Envers de Valmur’ 2019. This is what they call a ‘lieu dit’ or ‘named vineyard’ in Burgundy. Essentially they are naming the vineyard on the bottle even though it does not have an official designation, something not that unusual in in the Cote d’Or but not all that common in Chablis.

As we all know about Burgundy, location is everything. We have talked many times about relatively unknown parcels that exist in close proximity to famous ones, and how the potential can far exceed the price commanded. That is the case here. This 1.6 ha parcel exists on the backside of the hill of Grand Cru vineyard Valmur (envers de Valmur literally means ‘behind Valmur’), and face west looking out at Grand Cru Vaudesir. The vines were planted in 1967 and typically deliver small, concentrated berries that give the wine plenty of punch and acidity as well as well-woven minerality.

The vineyard is farmed organically and the fruit sees time in oak vessels from one to seven years old with the purpose of rounding the wine and giving it a creamy texture while not letting pronounced wood notes get in the way of the vineyard terroir. The plush, inviting, somewhat gentle texture and palate feel has been a consistent feature of Malandes wines for as long as we have known them. Given this wine and the location, one has to wonder why this vineyard was never given any ‘official’ standing.

Like we said, we had not seen this designation before and there isn’t a lot of it anyway (about 900 cases produced). But it didn’t slip past the folks at Decanter Magazine who wrote, “Domaine des Malandes is a 29ha estate with the ‘Envers de Valmur’ an intriguing ‘insiders’ choice from vineyards abutting Grand Cru Vaudésir. Classic in colour, aroma and flavour profile on the palate, this is a fine Chablis with great potential for further ageing. Bright, focussed and mineral with a lovely balance between freshness, bright acidity and ripe fruit flavours. Long and precise on the finish… 94 Points!

This would have been an email but there really wasn’t enough juice to support that. We bought everything there was anyway because it is simply a lovely, well-priced example of the genre from a vintage that looks like it is going to get some attention.

DISTINCTIVE 2006 DUO FROM DANIEL-ETIENNE DEFAIX

We have spoken of our penchant for Chablis many times, and how Chablis, the region, is in a better place than it has ever been. There is a great range of activity there these days, classic producers as well as passionate newcomers that are expanding the style range of the region within the context of the classic chalky terroir. Even within the broad context of today, Daniel-Etienne Defaix is no ordinary Chablis producer. This guy is in the ‘aged Chablis’ business and we have had numerous great experiences with his wines dating back more than two decades. That makes him ‘the exception’ over a period of time where premature oxidation has changed people’s expectations about aging white Burgundy. And he does it for you!

His whole approach is not only different, it would be virtually impossible to imitate starting from scratch. For Defaix, aged Chablis is his raison d’etre. He has extensive holdings in Chablis and sells most of his harvest “en vrac” (in bulk). This affords him the capital to underwrite long aging of cuvees from selected lots of wine. First, only a small percentage of his produce actually finds its way into his bottlings in the first place. He retains the very best juice for his own label.

At that point, as we understand it, the wine ages for at least two years in vertical tanks with the lees in constant suspension. Each month or two the lees are pumped up-and-over the wine via an external tube with no exposure to air. Those lees circulate and descend through the vat over the next days and weeks in a state of suspension thus enriching the wine as they pass through.

Defaix decides when to bottle and then ages the wines in bottle until he deems them ready for prime time. He is in no particular hurry and ‘go time’ might not come for more than a decade. But when the wine then hits the shelves, it is in a state of near-perfect readiness. No one else conducts business in this manner. Not sure anyone could. As a number of you found out from the two rounds of offers we did with Defaix’s 2005s, the results are magic.

Today we are pleased to roll out an intriguing pair of 2006s we just tasted. We’ll tell you right up front that Defaix does not go out of his way to court the press and these wines have not been reviewed as yet. But 2006 is a better vintage and this pair is better respectively than those delightful, reviewed 2005s we sold before. Also, they couldn’t be more different from each other which is a pretty sensational demonstration of what terroir is all about.

The Daniel-Etienne Defaix Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 2006 panders in a way that only aged Chablis can. The vines (average age 45 years) are planted on a 28-degree slope in the original parcel of “Vaillon” with a southeast exposure. The soil here is particularly influenced by iron deposits which yields a wine of fruit and spice and great density. The Vaillons is influenced by notes of forest floor and subtle, more iron-like minerality, and is often the most generous wine of the domaine. That generality definitely applies here. The Vaillon has classic apple and citrus fruit up front laced with typical salinity and mineral notes. As it rolls across the palate, it flashes some lifted but surprisingly butter-like notes as well, sort of Chablis meets Cote de Beaune. Delightful, elegant and very civilized, this will appeal to a broad audience with its show of refinement, creamier palate and tender-but-insistent finish.

The Daniel-Etienne Defaix Chablis 1er Cru Cote de Lechet 2006 is more about power and exhibits what Defaix’s careful, purposeful process can deliver. If you are more of a ‘hard-core’ lover of Chablis, this one will ring your bell. It is truly spectacular in a different way. Defaix’s holdings in the Cote de Lechet are on a 38 degree slope facing southeast. Most of the grapes come from a single parcel called ‘Clos des Moines’. The vines are on average 45 years of age, and naturally have smaller yields, thus more concentrated fruit. This specific vineyard section has the reputation of being “the most emphatic and pure expression of the minerality.” That’s the story here, surprising size, stoniness, power, texture and energy, particularly for a 14-year-old white. Amazing.

Once again you have classic, perfectly proportioned Chablis at its optimum and showing a distinct display of the terroir. That is the Defaix way. Considering the effort and time to produce these wines, at these prices they are simply some of the better deals on premium Chablis we’ve encountered.

A TRIO OF INTRIGUING CALIFORNIA WHITES

NORIA SAUVIGNON BLANC BEVILL FAMILY VINEYARD RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY 2017-There are many approaches to wine, and those approaches can vary based on a number of factors, not the least of which is orientation based on where someone is from. Nori Nakamura first learned about fine wine at his uncle’s Italian restaurant in Tokyo. After college he visited Italy and tasted a phenomenal 1981 Barbaresco that clarified his life’s goal of being a winemaker. He earned a Japan Sommelier Certification in Tokyo and transferred to the Hotel Nikko in San Francisco where he religiously visited wine country every weekend for two years.

He decided winemaking was his ultimate passion and graduated from U.C. Davis in 2002. He went on to become assistant winemaker at Koves-Newlan, Pine Ridge Vineyards and Artesa and head winemaker at Jamison Ranch and is currently at Larson Family Winery. Noria, Spanish for ‘waterwheel’, is his own project, the term symbolic of a ‘circle of life’ state of mind. But his ideal involves sake as much as wine, referring to this as inspired by daiginjo sake (junmai daiginjo is the top level of sake indicating the smallest percentage of a rice kernel, polished down to less than 60% of the original…it’s a long story).

In any case a top daiginjo is the finest, most refined level of sake and the Noria Sauvignon Blanc Bevill Family Vineyard Russian River Valley 2017 reflects that ethereal presence and light-on-its-feet nature of a fine sake in personality but reflects it in this distinctive varietal bottling. The owner of Bevill Vineyard was the uncle of one of Nori’s Japanese friends who made the introduction and Nori decided the higher pitched expressive fruit of Russian River Sauvignon Blanc would be a stylistic complement to what he intended for this wine.

Made from 97% Sauvignon Blanc and 3% Gewurztraminer, which gently spikes the aromatics in an engaging way, this Sauv. Blanc expresses fruit components of lime, pear, lemon grass and orange as well as stones, bay and a whiff of honey. The flavor is important, but equally so is the texture which is ample but also extremely delicate and one that sits airily atop the palate. Not aggressive in any aspect, this succinctly proportioned, refreshing wine that will make both a polite aperitif or a sensational foil for lighter fare. A cool, off-the-beaten-path find.

FOXEN CHENIN BLANC OLD VINES ERNESTO WICKENDEN VINEYARD 2018-We know that it says ‘old vines’, but honestly there aren’t a lot of new vines of the varietal being planted these days, and not a lot of practitioners either. Perhaps even more pertinent is the fact that even among the few, experienced folks that regularly produce a Chenin Blanc in California, sensational examples are relatively rare and many of those are priced near the epic examples from the Loire Valley. We wrote about a stunning offering from Chalone a couple of years back but it has been pretty quiet otherwise.

We have tasted many vintages of the Foxen with the hopes that they would have one of those ‘home run’ moments but, previously, we have not been moved. This, however, is the one! The Foxen Chenin Blanc Old Vines Ernesto Wickenden Vineyard 2018 showcases everything we love about Chenin Blanc, and we dare say if there were more examples like this of beautifully honed, dry styled Chenin Blanc, the varietally would be considerably more popular with consumers. The complexity of the peach, orange zest, baking spice and floral aspects like this one exhibits make for a very engaging drink. There simply haven’t been enough examples like this in California to make a lasting impression.

Antonio Galloni tells the story beautifully and covers all the bases, though we could easily spew substantial rhetoric ourselves given our enthusiasm for this particular bottling, “The 2018 Chenin Blanc Ernesto Wickenden Vineyard Old Vines is a dense, powerful wine that shows the more savory side of Chenin off to great effect. Dried flowers, herb, almonds and mineral inflections give the Chenin its super distinctive personality. There is plenty of texture and depth, but the fruit is pushed into the background. The Foxen Chenin is one of the most distinctive wines in Santa Barbara. It is also an insane value… 94 Points.”

Our experience with this wine over the years is perhaps less enthusiastic based on our extensive familiarity with the top efforts in the Loire. But this one can play with those big boys, and that is high praise from us. “All we are saying (clap) is give Chenin a chance (clap).”

This one will change a lot of people’s existing notions on Chenin Blanc.

ALMA DE CATTLEYA SAUVIGNON BLANC SONOMA COUNTY 2019–Bibiana González Rave Pisoni seems to be a consistent source of news. Her credentials are nothing short of amazing. This is a Colombian born lady that decided in her teens that wine was her calling and she proceeded to get herself to France where she worked with luminaries like Ogier and Clusel-Roch in the Rhone and Haut Brion and La Dominique in Bordeaux (there was a stint in South Africa as well). She didn’t slow down when she got to California in 2007, working at La Crema, Peay Vineyards, Au Bon Climat and Qupé before Lynmar, where she was winemaker from 2009 through 2011.

She married Jeff Pisoni, of the Pisoni Vineyard family, formed a winery with him called Shared Notes (they make a $60 Sauvignon that’s pretty special), secured new grape sources for her own wines and signed on as winemaker for Jayson Pahlmeyer’s Sonoma Coast Pinot and Chardonnay project called Wayfarer Ranch. Her premium label is called Cattelaya (named for the national flower of Columbia, an orchid) and, along the way she created a value-focused label called Alma de Cattleya (alma is the Spanish word for ‘soul’) that may be discreetly one of the best value labels in California.

She has displayed ‘touch’ in a way that only the best winemakers seem to possess, and to be able to experience her style at the modest fares that the Alma de Cattleya wines sell for is a bonafied opportunity. The girl has remarkable chops and we have been particular fans of the work she does with Sauvignon Blanc under her value label. We’ll get the review out of the way first. Wine Spectator bestowed a 90 point score on the Alma de Cattleya Sauvignon Blanc Sonoma County 2019, with comments “Shows terrific intensity, opening with honeysuckle, pear and melon flavors, revealing a tangy side of Meyer lemon juice. Refreshing and fragrant through the finish. Drink now.”

To us that way undersells this Sauv. Blanc and we will respectfully suggest that, in some tasting flight of who knows how many wines, the Cattleya’s precise and delicate nature may have been lost a little bit in the crowd. The review suggests this is a ‘nice little wine’. It has way more character and dimension than that.

One on one, the way most people drink wine, this wine’s florality, harmony and presence make a much greater impression. This is a lovely example that highlights the fruit notes of pear, melon, and fig elements that are round, lifted and fresh and one should take the opportunity to experience this lady’s particular skill at this kind of price. Most domestic Sauvignons in this kind of price don’t have anywhere near the ‘alma’ this one does.

CLASSY, AGED ITALIAN SAUVIGNON

We’ve never been afraid to swim outside the mainstream. We just realize when we do, the wines have to be a little more than just a cut above. This is actually our first go-round with Vigne del Malina Sauvignon but we have had their wines before. Aged Sauvignon Blanc is an oddity in most parts of the world, but in northeastern Italy and Slovenia it’s practiced by a few talented producers.

We’ll start by saying that the Vigne del Malina Sauvignon Blanc 2013 is the current release. These folks lke to put some tank and bottle age their Sauvignon Blanc in their own cellars until they deem it ready. The immediate concern would be that Sauvignon would sacrifice some of its freshness to achieve the nuance developed with aging but there is more than enough lift here to pull it off beautifully. Sauvignon Blanc from this part of the world has its own, rather unique profile.

Aromas of tomato leaf, a certain florality to the citrus aspects of lime and grapefruit and a less aggressive ‘Sauvignon’ demeanor in general is sort of the thread running through a lot of the best efforts from around these parts (Friuli, Alto Adige, etc.). The bottle time tones down the sometimes sharp edges this varietal can have and highlights more the mineral elements in these alluvial gravels.

Fermatation is done in open vats with some maceration of grape skins and frequent punch-downs. Malolactic fermentation and aging is done in older oak barrels for one year, then it sits reclined in bottles for fifteen months at a constant temperature.

The result is a very elegant and stylish approach to Sauvignon Blanc that one could compare to some of the more avant garde Slovenian practitioners, but this bottling comes off a little fresher and more to our taste. Stylistically a little off the beaten path, but in a good way.

‘OLD’ CHABLIS LABEL IS NEW TO US

There is always room for another classy Chablis around here, and this one has all the right stuff. The 2018 vintage has been an interesting one for white Burgundies in general. There was plenty of ripe fruit like 2015, a vintage where the wines generally suffered a lack of acidity and focus. But unlike 2015, you can’t make sweeping generalizations about 2018s. Sure we have run across some of those. But there are also many that have just barely enough acidity to hold them together and, because they do, are enormously pleasurable to drink, if a little atypical.

The Domaine de la Meuliere is different yet again. You would describe it as a slightly riper version of ‘classic’ Chablis, with all of the traditional trapping of green apple and citrus fruit foiled succinctly by a more restrained version of the chalky, flinty salinity that makes Chablis what it is. The slightly more tender palate feel makes this an ideal example to serve folks who aren’t as experienced with the genre, yet there is plenty to love for hardcore Chablis fans like us.

This Laroche family (there are others) has been producing in Chablis from their 24-hectare property since 1780. Claude Laroche was the one that got the inspiration to create a domaine in 1984. Now sons Nicolas and Vincent are running the show, updating the prior seven generations’ knowledge with more modern takes on winemaking. The soils of the vineyard are classic Kimmerigeon with vines averaging 25 years of age.

The grapes are harvested by hand, sorted, and done completely in stainless steel where the wine subsequently rests for nine months. This is our first ‘dance’ with Meuliere, but the delicacy, purity and authenticity of this wine compelled us to add it to the lineup, and the relative tenderness of the 2018 vintage gives it a broader appeal while still being true to type.

AN ASSYRTIKO FOR THE AGES

The title is a little tongue-in-cheek, though we are completely serious about this remarkable effort. Years ago someone trying to hustle up business for a company that was a essentially Greek grocery wholesaler rolled in and showed us a few Greek wines. We were surprised at how good some of them were and were particularly taken with one in particular, a Santorini Assyrtiko from a winery called Sigalas. The grape was unfamiliar to us, as was the island appellation of Santorini, and this crisp white from Sigalas (which we sold for like $14-15 back then) became a regular item that sort of ‘anchored’ our Greek wine section, such as it was. Clearly there was more to Greek wine than Retsina.

Fast forward probably a decade and a half, and Sigalas now sells for around $40, and has been on the Wine Spectator Top 100. Not only that, from being an addendum to a Greek grocery company’s line, several wine importers have made commitments to an extensive Greek wine program. Given our love of these unique varietal, which comes off like a crisp white from, say, Alto Adige with even more minerality and aromas of the sea, we have been very receptive to being presented such wines and have found some real definitive beauties.

That said, the Santo Assyrtiko Santorini Selection Cuvee 2018 took us aback in a way that few examples ever have. Super intense on the palate, with bright white stone fruit, citrus, and pineapple center stage, but vivid acidity and penetrating minerality and salinity balancing it perfectly, this was a sizable white that was light on its feet but carried big flavors all woven together harmoniously. As we were doing some research for information on this breakthrough wine, we ran across a review from a source that we don’t regularly follow.

The piece, from Wine & Spirits, tells the story eloquently and provides some key details as well as a ‘quotable’ 95 point score. “Founded in 1947, this cooperative has some 1,200 grower-members, giving winemaker Nikos Varvarigos access to a wide variety of terroirs. For this cuvee, he prioritized fruit from Pirgos and Imerovigli, two of the highest points on the island, where the grapes ripen more slowly. This was particularly relevant in 2018, the earliest harvest he’d ever seen in his 33 years of winemaking. Vinified in stainless steel and left for 14 months on its lees, it’s a lush, expansive Santorini from its sunny lemon scents to its mouthfilling texture.

“The flavors are ripe, from pineapple to golden raisin, yet they’re balanced by a strong mineral impression, like the scent of hot sand. It holds its form and flavors for days after the bottle is opened, the powerful structure promising that this will just get more complex with age. Whenever you open it, make sure you have some lamb or meaty fish on hand.”

We doubt there will be a lot written about this wine as there wasn’t a lot of it, and that’s too bad. It is special. As to the article, a couple of comments. True or not, the purveyor told us that the 14 months time on lees was something of an error, a forgotten tank that was discovered later on and, once they tasted it, created a special cuvee bottling. Either way, this is an epic example of this distinctive varietal and terroir that should not be missed!

We don’t see it going with lamb necessarily as it is a crisp, high-toned white. A plate of fresh things from the sea would be our ideal match, or all by itself to appreciate all that is going on in the glass. We cannot comment on the assertion that it will “hold its form and flavor for days”. It would never be around “for days”(or even hours) at our house. It’s simply too good.

VIETTI’S EXCEPTIONAL ARNEIS

Around here we have been noticed that there are a number of vintners throughout the wine world that are definitely color oriented. Very often producers (in Burgundy in particular) that make great white wine also produce adequate but seemingly uninspired reds. There are red wine guys that follow the same pattern in reverse, exceptional reds but not necessarily compelling whites. Then there are a precious few that seem to do everything well. Luca Currado is one of those.

Sure he makes a variety of exciting reds from Dolcetto to Barbera to Nebbiolo, including some of the most highly prized single-vineyard Barolos around. But his Moscato d’Asti can sit on the same table with any producers’ efforts, including guys that are Moscato specialists. We have had a number of his Arneis wines over the years, and they have always been proper. But, for whatever reason, the Vietti Roero Arneis 2018 is a cut above most of the examples we recall from him as well as most of what we have tasted in general in recent years.

Sure, there’s only so much you can say about a regional white of this kind, but it matters when you get a textbook example that you can point to of what the wine is supposed to be. The aromatics are outgoing with mineral and florality vying for attention with notes of green apple and white nectarine. In the mouth, you get the expected verve but a bit more flesh in the midpalate and a bright, slightly piquant note of tonic and a touch of salinity to the finish. A lifted, bright white that has enough midpalate for casual sipping but really comes alive with food.

Wine Advocate’s Monica Larner said, “This is always such a delicious wine and one I could imagine pairing with a Thai salad or grilled shrimp. The 2018 Roero Arneis opens to fragrant aromas with spring flower, cut grass and white peach. This is a lean-bodied white with a bright, tonic and zesty personality…90 points.” Since her review is from over a year ago, we suspect the wine has expanded a bit since that note was written, but it still maintains the mouth-watering freshness to play its intended role. As to ‘scores’, we’d be even a point or two higher based on what we tasted.