We have spoken of our penchant for Chablis many times, and how Chablis, the region, is in a better place than it has ever been. There is a great range of activity there these days, classic producers as well as passionate newcomers that are expanding the style range of the region within the context of the classic chalky terroir. Even within the broad context of today, Daniel-Etienne Defaix is no ordinary Chablis producer. This guy is in the ‘aged Chablis’ business and we have had numerous great experiences with his wines dating back more than two decades. That makes him ‘the exception’ over a period of time where premature oxidation has changed people’s expectations about aging white Burgundy. And he does it for you!
His whole approach is not only different, it would be virtually impossible to imitate starting from scratch. For Defaix, aged Chablis is his raison d’etre. He has extensive holdings in Chablis and sells most of his harvest “en vrac” (in bulk). This affords him the capital to underwrite long aging of cuvees from selected lots of wine. First, only a small percentage of his produce actually finds its way into his bottlings in the first place. He retains the very best juice for his own label.
At that point, as we understand it, the wine ages for at least two years in vertical tanks with the lees in constant suspension. Each month or two the lees are pumped up-and-over the wine via an external tube with no exposure to air. Those lees circulate and descend through the vat over the next days and weeks in a state of suspension thus enriching the wine as they pass through.
Defaix decides when to bottle and then ages the wines in bottle until he deems them ready for prime time. He is in no particular hurry and ‘go time’ might not come for more than a decade. But when the wine then hits the shelves, it is in a state of near-perfect readiness. No one else conducts business in this manner. Not sure anyone could. As a number of you found out from the two rounds of offers we did with Defaix’s 2005s, the results are magic.
Today we are pleased to roll out an intriguing pair of 2006s we just tasted. We’ll tell you right up front that Defaix does not go out of his way to court the press and these wines have not been reviewed as yet. But 2006 is a better vintage and this pair is better respectively than those delightful, reviewed 2005s we sold before. Also, they couldn’t be more different from each other which is a pretty sensational demonstration of what terroir is all about.
The Daniel-Etienne Defaix Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 2006 panders in a way that only aged Chablis can. The vines (average age 45 years) are planted on a 28-degree slope in the original parcel of “Vaillon” with a southeast exposure. The soil here is particularly influenced by iron deposits which yields a wine of fruit and spice and great density. The Vaillons is influenced by notes of forest floor and subtle, more iron-like minerality, and is often the most generous wine of the domaine. That generality definitely applies here. The Vaillon has classic apple and citrus fruit up front laced with typical salinity and mineral notes. As it rolls across the palate, it flashes some lifted but surprisingly butter-like notes as well, sort of Chablis meets Cote de Beaune. Delightful, elegant and very civilized, this will appeal to a broad audience with its show of refinement, creamier palate and tender-but-insistent finish.
The Daniel-Etienne Defaix Chablis 1er Cru Cote de Lechet 2006 is more about power and exhibits what Defaix’s careful, purposeful process can deliver. If you are more of a ‘hard-core’ lover of Chablis, this one will ring your bell. It is truly spectacular in a different way. Defaix’s holdings in the Cote de Lechet are on a 38 degree slope facing southeast. Most of the grapes come from a single parcel called ‘Clos des Moines’. The vines are on average 45 years of age, and naturally have smaller yields, thus more concentrated fruit. This specific vineyard section has the reputation of being “the most emphatic and pure expression of the minerality.” That’s the story here, surprising size, stoniness, power, texture and energy, particularly for a 14-year-old white. Amazing.
Once again you have classic, perfectly proportioned Chablis at its optimum and showing a distinct display of the terroir. That is the Defaix way. Considering the effort and time to produce these wines, at these prices they are simply some of the better deals on premium Chablis we’ve encountered.