Because of what we do, it is not unusual for us to be asked what our favorite wines are. There are a couple of recurring scenarios that occur as we try and answer the question honestly and not sound like we’re too above it all. If you have only tasted two wines in your life, the answer to the question is quite simple. But when you have tasted literally hundreds of thousands, it’s hard to narrow favorites down even to a couple hundred wines, let alone one or two.
The categories that get our attention can be pretty esoteric as well. For example one of our favorite places for white wines is northeastern Italy. Here in the hills that elevate into the Alps there are high valleys with crystal clean air, bright sunshine and cool nights that create wines like nowhere else in the world. Pure, insistent, remarkably expressive and lively on the palate, perfect foils to a wide variety of foods, the wines from this part of the world have a special character and vigor.
People ask us to name some of our favorites from the region and then have puzzled looks on their faces when we point to wines like Val Isarco, Abbazia di Novacella, Schiopetto, and Cantina Terlano. None of them are exactly household words even among a lot of serious wine cognoscenti. One of our absolute favorites is the subject of today’s offer, a brilliant white wine house in Friuli called Vie di Romans.
We identified these folks as one of the best-of-the-best in the region a very long time ago, and have always jumped at the chance to taste their newest wares. Unfortunately, such chances have come far less often than we would have liked. For one, the wines have not had consistent distribution over the years. Most suppliers don’t have a lot of patience to try and develop higher priced Italian whites. Also, because the wines cost quite a bit more than your run-of-the-mill Friulanos, Pinot Grigios, and Sauvignons, suppliers are more reluctant to show them. The perfectly valid opinion is that most restaurant/retail buyers would find them too pricey to work into standard scenarios.
We’d have to admit ourselves that we have shied away from some pretty stupendous efforts from Vie di Romans simply because we presumed people would be hesitant to spend the additional coin even though these soar above the crowd. People figure they can get ‘good’ Pinot Grigio for $15-16 while Vie di Romans version is closer to $30. Yet there is no comparison. The VdR is richer, more driving and more complex, simply a wine unto itself with dazzling acidity and palate length that bears little resemblance to most of the vapid Pinot Grigios on the marketplace.
We know such wines are not the easiest sell. Sometimes, even against our better ‘marketing’ judgment, we buy them anyway. The very best simply cost more, and these wines deserve the spotlight. So it was with this riveting Sauvignon Blanc duet from Vie di Romans… driving fruit, insistent palate length and mouth- watering acidity.
The single-vineyard Vie di Romans Sauvignon Blanc Piere Friuli Isonzo 2015 simply smells and tastes like something from another strata. There’s power, finesse, and complex flavors of grapefruit, stones, and apple, along with the classically Italian note of tomato leaves. Oak would damage the wine’s purity, so ‘Piere’ is done entirely in stainless steel with an eight month sojourn on the lies and no malo-lactic. The result is a sleek, vividly flavored effort that can play with Sauvignon s costing a lot more. James Suckling’s take, “Plenty of sliced apple, grass and fennel seed character. Medium body, tangy acidity and a smoky, slate aftertaste. Always excellent. Drink now… 93 Points!” You can drink it now, but this meticulously crafted Sauvignon can age as well.
The Vie di Romans Sauvignon Blanc Vieris Friuli Isonzo 2015 kicks it up a notch. It has everything that the Piere has, but more, and with a little different twist to the flavor profile! More palate authority, intensity, and high-toned fruit, plus this one reaches a little into the realm of exotic fruit tones. The main difference between the two is that Piere consists of a higher percentage of Italian clones, whereas the Vieris favors French clones. The vines are a little older here, and Vieris spends nine months on the lies. Again, what a wine…surprising punch yet with an uncommon refinement. Suckling went a little cheerleader on this one, “This is really exotic with peaches, mangoes and grapefruits as well as a steely undertone. Full body, plenty of fruit and a powerful finish. One of the great whites of Italy. Drink now… 96 Points!”
One of the great whites of Italy? Indeed, they both are. Considering they are legitimate best-of-breed, the prices actually don’t seem out of line. You get what you pay for, and these are the works of masters. Treat yourself.
