Piedmont

DELICIOUS ‘SLEEPER’ BARBARESCO

Given our experience, we can tell you a thing or two about the big reds of Piedmont. First, most folks are content to get into the game when a highly regarded vintage comes along. Relative to that, as we are on the downside of the heralded 2016 vintage, you might want to take a last glance at the remaining 2016 Barolos and Barbarescos. This was a special vintage even among the high success rate in Piedmont over the last decade or so.

We’d also point out that the producers make wine every year and not every harvest becomes a vintage of the century in the eyes of the market. That doesn’t mean that there aren’t any worthwhile efforts, just that the ‘hit ratio’ might be a bit lower. One can find some pretty thrilling wines in most vintages provided they take the time to look. The Nada Barbaresco Casot 2018 is an excellent example of what we are talking about.

It’s easy to miss little gems like this. This is a small family estate is brought in by a small importer, and the 2018 vintage, while good, isn’t going to get the attention of, say, 2010, 2015, or 2016 from a ‘historic’ standpoint. Still, we did our due diligence and were quite pleased to find this elegant, delightful little spice-box of a single vineyard-Barbaresco at a rather attractive price ( it sells for less than the entry-level bottling from Produttori di Barbaresco by $8). As such, it deserves to get some of your attention.

Azienda Agricola Nada Giuseppe was started in 1900, with a vineyard in Casot purchased from a Gaja. In 1964 Giuseppe’s father, Antonio, made the risky decision to begin to estate bottle a part of his production, requiring him to invest in a small winery (he put it in the basement of that house on the Casot hillside). It was a prescient move as, in 1966, the DOC of Barbaresco, named after one of the three villages in the appellation, became established.

These days, Giuseppe and Nella stay fit maintaining the vineyards where they do practically all of the work, while their daughter Barbara manages the office and their son Enrico oversees the wine production down in the cellar. Enrico took the reins in 2008. The additions of SO2 have been greatly reduced and only a light filtration (no fining) is performed in the cellar. The farming has steadily moved to organic and most of the estate is certified organic now.

Packed with a high-toned, very Nebbiolo character, bursting with spicy red fruits and supported by fine but giving tannins, this Casot is an expressive and appealing example of the genre, exhibiting all of the best traits. As the Wine Advocate review alludes, the appeal was definitely immediate but also lasting. It can age, but it doesn’t necessarily need to. The 2018 vintage overall is a lovely, round, accessible vintage that maybe doesn’t have the gravitas or media attention of 2016, but still should not be ignored because of wines like this. At this price, the Casot is a true sleeper.

From Monica Larner of Wine Advocate, “The 2018 Barbaresco Casot is a fragrant and immediate wine that shows a good amount of ripeness and richness up front. This was a cool vintage overall, although the fruit ripened quickly toward the end of the growing season. There are sweet cherry aromas with spice and licorice. The wine drapes over the palate with silky and smooth intensity. The Casot vineyard is distinguished by layers of bluish tufo soil and layers of looser sand…93 points.”

FRIENDLY FOILS FROM SILVIO GRASSO

This is devoted to a more casual, comfortable wine moment. We are keenly aware that we, and other merchants, spend the majority of promotion energy on ‘superlative’ wines. Yes the industry has become very much about ‘highest scores’, ‘greatest ever’ kind of rhetoric. It’s amazing how elevated the jargon has become. Well, this piece is about ‘comfortable’ wines you don’t have to think about but serve their purpose with style.

What do we mean? Well, while we know it is risky not overstate our case because people might think we aren’t enthusiastic enough, we aren’t going to sling about grandiose terms to try and convince you that these wines will change your life. Most wines aren’t the ‘greatest ever’ and what the definition of that would even be is in the eye, or palate, of the beholder. But we are going to tell you that wines like this are absolutely necessary.

The vintners don’t drink Barolo every day. They like to have tasty, serviceable wines for the table. For those mid-week burgers, a take-out pizza, or a quick pasta dish, wines like this that are easy-drinking, tasty, unpretentious and well priced are invaluable companions.

This pair comes from a house we have worked with for a long time, and also sells big time Barolos. But they have also been a great place to procure ‘comfortable’ wines. Silvio Grasso isn’t exactly a household name and these little wines aren’t going to make the winery famous because they aren’t going to get the reviews that will cause people to pay attention. But if you want a glass of something to go along with everyday fare and be interesting enough to keep your attention, these are worthy candidates.

The Silvio Grasso Nebbiolo2018 is a fine representation of the varietal with the high toned minerality, rosehips, and sweet earth with a central theme of supple red fruits. The grapes here are 95% Nebbiolo and the remaining 5% a combination of Merlot and Barbera from vines planted between 1980 and 2000. This vintage has created a kinder, gentler, suppler, more user-friendly version of Nebbiolo without the edgy tannins that can sometimes make a stern impression and a sweet middle of cherry fruit. Perfectly quaffable, authentic (it’s from La Morra) Nebbiolo that you can fire up with a modest midweek meal and it will elevate the experience without denting the wallet much ($14.98)

The Silvio Grasso Barbera d’Alba 2017 represents the same kind of delicious pop-and-serve choice. Barbera can sometimes have a pretty stern lick of acidity but this rendition is supple, round, gentle and fruit-driven. It is 100% Barbera harvested from 35-year-old vines and is done entirely in stainless steel. As we have noted in other pieces, some of the 2017s from Piedmont have been particularly plush and engaging, almost New World in their suppleness and this one definitely has that profile. Again, at only $14.98, the price angst is greatly reduced.

We could try to ratchet up the prose because that is what people expect to hear these days. But we’d rather represent these for what they are…delicious, engaging, low-cost options when you just want a surprisingly good glass of wine and don’t necessarily need a lot of drama to go along with it. We all have those days and these are an answer.

DOLCETTO: THE FORGOTTEN CHOICE

There is so much to choose from out in the wine world these days, it is easy to see how consumers can get confused. It truth, in trying to cover all of the choices out there, we still neglect categories ourselves. With the holiday season upon us, there are lots of choices for feasts. But we must apologize that we haven’t really given any attention to one of the more versatile reds out there for this time of year…Dolcetto.

If you want a simple handle for the wine, think of it as Piemontese ‘Beaujolais’, not so much in flavor profile but in function. Dogliani, at its best self, is a fruit driven, bright, easy drinking quaff to wash down some pasta, meat, or plate of charcuterie. No one speaks of them in the terms of the icons of the region, Barolo and Barbaresco. But that doesn’t mean they don’t have an important place.

With the exception of Dogliani, where Dolcetto is king, Dolectto isn’t planted on the best part of the ‘bricco’ in most of Piedmont. But they serve well as the ‘house pour’, along with Barbera, at the table. There are many versions out there. Some can be a little too nervy, which will definitely narrow their appeal. But the gregarious, forward style in a warm vintage, in the hands of a talented winemaker, creates some excellent, well-priced all-purpose candidates for the table.

Italian aficionados already know this, but we think Dolcetto should have a broader audience because it has the potential to fill many niches. We happen to have a couple that we think will make friends and influence people because of their quality/price relationship and easy going, versatile styles. We usually don’t get a lot of help from the critics because Dolcettos are usually tasted in context from producers that are also trotting out a lineup single-vineyard Barolos. Often they don’t get mentioned at all. Are there 99 point Dolcettos? Not that we have ever seen, but that is totally not the point.

Beppe Ca’Viola is one of the most ‘important’ winemaking consultants in Italy. His own winery, opened in 1991, is in Dogliani where there aren’t ‘cru’ Nebbiolo vineyards. He has some small parcels in Barolo but his personal wines have been more recognized for flashy versions of the ‘lesser’ varietals like Dolcetto. The guy has a way of jamming a lot of fruit into his wine and the Ca’Viola Dolcetto D’Alba Vilot 2018, a single vineyard Dolcetto, harvested from 20-year-old vines, is a great demonstration of the Ca’Viola style.

Lifted, bright, juicy black fruits, medium weight but vigorous on the palate, just the right touch of acidity, this outgoing red will play beautifully alongside a variety of fare, even that holiday bird. All done in stainless, this is expressive, fruit driven, and easy to like. Since Beppe is more known for these types of wines, we even have a review from James Suckling, “Sour cherries, blueberries and lemon peel here. Medium body, fine, silky tannins and a fruity finish. Drink now… 91 Points.” We didn’t really get ‘lemon peel’ but we’re all over the ‘drink now.’ Like most of what we have tasted from Ca’Viola, this is a joy to drink.

We have been fans of Brovia for a long time, though we haven’t always had access to the wines. They have multiple Barolos that the critics are going to be much more attentive to, so we can’t roll out any reviews on this newly arrived Dolcetto. Unlike Ca’Viola, this is more of an ‘old school’ affair founded in 1863 with the fourth generation firmly in charge. Harvested from classic clay-limestone soils from plots in serious dirt (Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga d’Alba) some planted in 1981 and the other portion in 1993, the Brovia Dolcetto D’Alba Vignavillej 2018 has, again, inviting, deep color, volume on the palate, and is done entirely in stainless steel to preserve the gregarious fruit.

The profile here is more black cherry fruits as well as notes of plum, anise, and a touch of mocha. Sometimes this house can be a little rustic, but this time around it’s fleshy, fruit forward, and ready for action. Deep Color, aromas of dark cherry and mulberry, notes of violet and anise, reasonable size for the genre but a forward, juicy demeanor that encourages quaffing.

Both of these can be had for under $20, will play with a variety of fare as mentioned, and can be served with a slight chill if that is preferred. It can play with that American holiday bird as well.

POLISHED ‘GO-TO’ BARBERA

There has and will continue to be a lot of attention paid to the fantastic 2016 vintage in Piedmont, though history will remember the great Barolos and Barbarescos. We have had a lot of fun with the little wines of the region and the vintage provided a number of very appealing Barberas and Dolcettos. In our minds the vintage should have passed through the market by now, the fragmented distribution of Italian wines (lots of small purveyors) in this marketplace still seems to have a few pockets of the vintage wine to be had.

The Giovanni Rosso ‘Donna Margherita’ Barbera D’Alba 2016 is a fine example of this special vintage, coupled with a more generous style. It shows a sweet nose of red and black fruits, with earth, minerality and spice/herb/floral accents subtly woven in. Probably due both to the bottle age and the vintage itself, this particular version comes off as more fleshy and elegant than your typical commercial rendition of Barbera, which can be wildly different but often lean towards higher acidity. Consider this a ‘kinder, gentler’ example of the breed.

Monica Larner’s description of the wine we felt was pretty on point, “The Giovanni Rosso 2016 Barbera d’Alba Donna Margherita shows a slightly aged personality with toasted hazelnut, dried blackberry, dusty mineral and campfire ash. Barbera maintains bright primary fruit for a long time, but this wine (tasting four years after the harvest) is just beginning to show that added complexity of time, especially on the bouquet. In the mouth, however, Donna Margherita is surprising lively, bright and fresh.”

We sure liked it and the description appeared pretty positive. Given that, we have to say we were a little surprised by the ‘conclusion’, a ’89’ point score. What’s wrong with “added complexity” while still being “surprising lively, bright and fresh”? It goes to show that, on any given day, it is difficult to figure out what might be in the reviewer’s head. This rather plush, varietally true, engaging Barbera should please a lot of folks and delivers a lot for its modest tab.

VIETTI’S EXCEPTIONAL ARNEIS

Around here we have been noticed that there are a number of vintners throughout the wine world that are definitely color oriented. Very often producers (in Burgundy in particular) that make great white wine also produce adequate but seemingly uninspired reds. There are red wine guys that follow the same pattern in reverse, exceptional reds but not necessarily compelling whites. Then there are a precious few that seem to do everything well. Luca Currado is one of those.

Sure he makes a variety of exciting reds from Dolcetto to Barbera to Nebbiolo, including some of the most highly prized single-vineyard Barolos around. But his Moscato d’Asti can sit on the same table with any producers’ efforts, including guys that are Moscato specialists. We have had a number of his Arneis wines over the years, and they have always been proper. But, for whatever reason, the Vietti Roero Arneis 2018 is a cut above most of the examples we recall from him as well as most of what we have tasted in general in recent years.

Sure, there’s only so much you can say about a regional white of this kind, but it matters when you get a textbook example that you can point to of what the wine is supposed to be. The aromatics are outgoing with mineral and florality vying for attention with notes of green apple and white nectarine. In the mouth, you get the expected verve but a bit more flesh in the midpalate and a bright, slightly piquant note of tonic and a touch of salinity to the finish. A lifted, bright white that has enough midpalate for casual sipping but really comes alive with food.

Wine Advocate’s Monica Larner said, “This is always such a delicious wine and one I could imagine pairing with a Thai salad or grilled shrimp. The 2018 Roero Arneis opens to fragrant aromas with spring flower, cut grass and white peach. This is a lean-bodied white with a bright, tonic and zesty personality…90 points.” Since her review is from over a year ago, we suspect the wine has expanded a bit since that note was written, but it still maintains the mouth-watering freshness to play its intended role. As to ‘scores’, we’d be even a point or two higher based on what we tasted.

SUPER DOLCETTO

Some folks might not understand getting super excited about a Dolcetto. But that’s because they have probably never had one like this. Frankly, not sure we ever have either. Dolcetto is widely considered a ‘small wine’ of Piedmont, something engaging and bright to wash down lunch from vines that usually occupy the lesser parts of the hillside. Doesn’t mean it can’t be delicious, and we have had many good ones over the years. But in Dogliani, the part of Piedmont that is dedicated to Dolcetto, the bar is higher. In the hands of a conscientious producer like Orlando Pecchenino, higher still. Yet even with that understanding, this bottling raised eyebrows.

We haven’t formed a sweeping opinion of the 2017s in this part of the world as yet. But we do know a couple of things. The vintage was warm and the grapes came in ripe. As this is not the norm, some vintners couldn’t quite handle it and there are still questions about consistency. But the vintage has thus far given rise to some of the most pandering, lushest Italian reds we can recall tasting. For the ‘oldtimers’, think some of the ripe vintages of the 90s like 1990 or 1997, but fresher thanks to better winemaking.

The Pecchenino Dogliani Superiore Siri d’Jermu 2017 is something of a freak. It has all of the classic lines…fine acidity underneath, a little bit of an almond skin nip at the finish. But the wave of gushing, opulent blackberry fruit, the plushness of the palate, and tender edges were unlike any Dolcettos we could recall. The wine had exceptional richness yet stayed uncannily light on its feet.

There are those ads with sports stars about ‘the soup that eats like a meal’. This gorgeous Dolcetto ‘drinks like a meal’, though you can certainly accompany it with actual food like a plate of salami, a meaty pasta, or something from the grill and it will play beautifully. The only problem is that people who aren’t familiar with Doliani Dolcettos might think they all drink like this. They don’t! The James Suckling ’92’ doesn’t even begin to convey our impressions of this Dogliani. A must-try for any fan of reds, this is a one of a kind effort.

THE MAESTRO OF MOSCATO

Yeah, we know, New Year’s resolutions. But everyone needs a little joy in their life, and there is nothing more joyous than an expressive Moscato with its engaging apple/yellow stone fruit, enticing spicy aromas, and lively spritz on the palate. Through the years we have sold truckloads of Moscato d’Asti, which is pretty remarkable really. Not because of the wine itself, mind you. It is one of those wines that appeals to people who aren’t very sophisticated in their wine tastes, but also to people that are pretty experienced as well who appreciate an artful version . The thing is that ‘sophisticated’ wine drinkers would never admit they enjoyed a sweet, fizzy wine. Our message is that there is nothing wrong with shameless pleasure.

That point made, just being Moscato is not enough. All Moscatos are not created equal. Some are a little too clipped and lean and can come off as a little soapy. Others come off as dumpy and too sugary because they lack buoyancy and verve. The key is to have that tension between the juicy fruit and the wine’s acidity. Very fresh, even boisterous fruit, sitting atop refined, lifting acidity, with the right touch of fizz to cleanse the palate but never steal the show, make these wines the ultimate crowd-pleasers.

As we think back, there have been many labels on our shelves over the years. We are naturally curious sorts and seek out new and unique producers in every genre in our effort to find the very best stuff out there. Heck in a world that doesn’t admit that they like ‘sweet’ wine, we have at times carried (and sold) a dozen examples of Moscato d’Asti. Where they are ‘on’, they are pretty irresistible. But there were only a handful that were always on the shelf. Saracco was always part of that inner circle. Paolo Saracco is the Moscato whisperer, and his wines hit that perfect balance of fruit, acidity and sparkle, with extra points for clarity and purity, year in and year out. He is a master of Moscato magic.

Ian d’Agata of Vinous Media has the same kind of passion for the subject as we do. A small excerpt from his piece on Moscato that he wrote last year sets the tone, “Asti and Moscato d’Asti are two of Italy’s best-known and most delicious sparkling wines. Light in alcohol and strong on flavor, Asti and Moscato d’Asti are the ultimate party wines, but they can be remarkably nuanced and terroir-specific, too. At their best, the wines offer aromas and flavors of orange blossom, pear, peach, sage, vanilla and other sweet spices, and are an absolute joy to drink on their own, as aperitifs or with fruit and cream-based desserts.”

His review of the outstanding 2017 Saracco Moscato d’Asti ended with the phrase, “For my money, this estate is the DRC of Moscato d’Asti.” That is pretty spectacular praise for any fermented beverage. Clearly his review of that particular bottling took the Moscato adulation to new heights, with all of the glowing words and the 93 point score. But we can’t really disagree. We are fans and will openly admit we love a good Moscato (How could you not?) and Paolo has been one of the stars for a long time.

But with the new vintage, Vinous’ D’Agata upped his own ante, writing of the 2018,” Luminous pale straw-green with golden tinges. Captivating aromas of orange blossom, lemon verbena, vanilla, sage and ripe grapefruit nectar. Dense, juicy and suave, presenting a multilayered, complex set of flavors similar to the aromas. The finish is very long, resonating with a floral topnote and delightful vibrancy. Outstanding, concentrated, complex and very pure Moscato d’Asti…94 points.” All of that prose, a point higher score, and still a price under $13!

There are probably a lot of people that tuned out when they noted this is about a fruity, frizzante white wine. Even more will be incensed that ‘big-time’ wine merchants would waste their time talking about such a wine to anyone other than ‘grandma’. Move over grandma, we’re right there with you. We have tasted the great wines of the world, and appreciate them for what they are. But there is nothing wrong with enjoying some sheer, unadulterated pleasure in the form of a well made Moscato d’Asti.

We have no problem professing our love for this intentionally pandering, joyous white. Saracco’s effort is, as always, seriously delicious. If you are already a fan of the genre, your path is clear. If not, you need to have the experience. Simply the Saracco Moscato d’Asti 2018 is one of the best versions from one of the best makers. Fresh, lively, low in alcohol and captivating, if the ‘DRC of Moscato’ doesn’t put a smile on your face, too bad for you. Joy in a bottle.

BOISTEROUS BARBERA 2017

We weren’t sure how to title this one. The reference to Barbera is a murky one for some people. In Piedmont, Barbera is considered one of the ‘little’ wines, something of an everyday beverage with the grapes usually relegated to the lesser terroirs.

Barbera also has an image problem of a sort. What is it? There are so many variations. You’ve got something decidedly utilitarian and unadorned from a number of the larger producers in Piedmont all the way to someone like Braida who is shooting for the stars with carefully tended vineyards and an upscale oak regimen.

There are many personalities from firm and fruit forward to stern and acidic, and all of them perform better if the is food involved. Most recently in the 2013 and 2014 vintages, very difficult for the earlier harvest, ‘lesser’ grapes in particular, they mostly ranged from uninspired to awful. The 2015s and 2016s were at the other end of the spectrum, generally very good and often outstanding. Given the variations in style and dramatic swings in vintages, we couldn’t begin to guess what most folks think about Barbera.

The 2017 vintage isn’t going to answer the question of what Barbera should be. But it is a unique and joyful look at something the grape can be but rarely is. The short story of the vintage is crops reduced by weather quirks in the spring, low yields, warm dry summer, phenolic ripeness and an early harvest. The result is possibly the juiciest, tenderest, most engaging examples of Barbera we can recall tasting…ever!

Hey it’s early in the game, but there’s no reason to expect that the freakishly friendly 2017 Barberas we have tasted thus far aren’t a proper vanguard for what is coming (the 2017 Nebbiolos have been remarkably precocious as well).

Our poster child for what we have seen thus far is the Revello Barbera d’Alba 2017 . Billowing nose of spicy dark red fruits, supple palate with tender edges, gregarious and juicy every step of the way, the profile hardly says Barbera given the history of the grape here, though the flavors are varietally correct.

Also, at $15, it’s a lot of wine for the fare and, even though it is an uncommonly friendly version of the genre, it is just as food friendly as it should be as, under all of that fruit, there’s enough cut to get the job done.

WELCOME BACK: MATTEO CORREGGIA ROERO ROSSO 2016

This was one of our favorite under-the-radar labels from back in the 90s when Corregia was part of the ‘new school’ Italian troupe under the Marco di Grazia banner. Corregia’s wines always had an engaging warmth and suppleness supported by ample dark fruits, gentle acidity and ripe tannins. He was thrust into winemaking at an early age when his father passed away in the ’80s, and he himself was killed in a vineyard accident in 2001. In between, he decided to bottle his own wine and developed a very captivating, generous style that won a lot of friends

A lot of his new school Barolista associates at the time, who created a bit of a sensation with using modern oak regimens in their winemaking, developed big reputations in the press. Corregia made his bones with more modest appellations like Roero, Barberas and Nebbiolos from sandier terroirs. After his death, the winery understandably lost some of its mojo, and we went quite a while without seeing much of the label here. Being presented the wine recently rekindled our interest in this lCorreggia and brought back memories as it is the same kind of honest, generous, palate caressing, bright red that we recall from the days of yore.

It is still a family affair with son Giovanni working with long-time winemaker Luca Rostagno, and mom, Ornella, handling the business and hosting. There are no secrets here. This is 100% Nebbiolo from a sandy parcel surrounded by a forest. All is harvested by hand and the finished wine sees six months in big barrels. We couldn’t find a review more recent on the Roero than 2012. But Correggia was never a media darling, especially given the high-profile folks he was associated with, just a guy who made juicy wines people enjoyed drinking.

The wine is the important thing and Correggia’s style was then, and is again, pleasing and comfortable with a supple core of dark cherry fruit augmented with floral notes and brown spice notes. The Matteo Correggia Roero Rosso 2016 is a wine to drink with gusto and, while you can get contemplative if you want to, that clearly isn’t the point here. Glad to have them back, and the vintage probably played right into the house style. Some folks out there don’t take wines labeled ‘rosso’ seriously. We say ‘respect the Rosso’.

‘House’ Barbera: Bosco Agostino Barbera d’Alba Volupta 2015

Barbera is one of Piedmont’s great go-to wines. Steaming plate of pasta? Barbera. Hearty lasagna? Barbera. A good, ripe Barbera can hit it with a burger and fries as well. It’s about the juice. Barbera can be fussy to grow. The acids can be too high and, when the vintage isn’t cooperative, you can get the lifeless examples of 2013 and 2014. The thing is, most top Piedmont estates grow some Barbera. It’s what’s for dinner. But so often it is an afterthought to the more famous Nebbiolo grown higher on the hill. But there are a few guys that do take their little wines as seriously as their flagships and one of them we have been working with for a long time is Agostino Bosco.

Year in and year out Andrea Bosco seems to stuff more fruit into his Barbera than almost anyone we can think of. That riper, somewhat plump palate has an almost New World feel to it, yet the personality of the fruit itself is unmistakably Italian.

As we mentioned, we have sold many vintages of this, but the Bosco Agostino Barbera d’Alba Volupta 2015 might be the juiciest yet. Why don’t more people know about this producer? Well, first off, this isn’t some fancy Piedmont estate trying to pass itself off as a ‘small family farm’. This actually is a small family farm with good holdings and a good dose of passion.

Second, they are not with one of those large international import companies that make sure they have all of their wines in front of critics. This hands-on operation doesn’t have the staff to do that. So you see little in the way of press, though this did get a 91 from James Suckling and comments, “Plenty of blue fruit, slate and violets to this Barbera on the nose as well as hints of resin. Full body, fine acidity and a fruity finish. Drink now.” But this wine delivers in the glass as a compelling, easy going, authentic mouth full, especially this year.

The estate itself consists of four hectares in the La Morra area divided among Nebbiolo, Barbera, and Dolcetto. The family existed as growers for decades until they decided to make their own wines in 1979. This Barbera is a blend of two different vineyards, one with 20-year-old vines in clay and limestone and a southwest exposition, the other 30-year-old vines in tufa and limestone with a southeast exposition. The blend yields a wine with ripe dark red and black fruit, sufficient but never intrusive acidity, not a lot of evident tannin, and a minerality that adds an interesting textural underpinning. In other words, perfectly tasty yet deceptively serious Barbera.