Yeah, we know, New Year’s resolutions. But everyone needs a little joy in their life, and there is nothing more joyous than an expressive Moscato with its engaging apple/yellow stone fruit, enticing spicy aromas, and lively spritz on the palate. Through the years we have sold truckloads of Moscato d’Asti, which is pretty remarkable really. Not because of the wine itself, mind you. It is one of those wines that appeals to people who aren’t very sophisticated in their wine tastes, but also to people that are pretty experienced as well who appreciate an artful version . The thing is that ‘sophisticated’ wine drinkers would never admit they enjoyed a sweet, fizzy wine. Our message is that there is nothing wrong with shameless pleasure.
That point made, just being Moscato is not enough. All Moscatos are not created equal. Some are a little too clipped and lean and can come off as a little soapy. Others come off as dumpy and too sugary because they lack buoyancy and verve. The key is to have that tension between the juicy fruit and the wine’s acidity. Very fresh, even boisterous fruit, sitting atop refined, lifting acidity, with the right touch of fizz to cleanse the palate but never steal the show, make these wines the ultimate crowd-pleasers.
As we think back, there have been many labels on our shelves over the years. We are naturally curious sorts and seek out new and unique producers in every genre in our effort to find the very best stuff out there. Heck in a world that doesn’t admit that they like ‘sweet’ wine, we have at times carried (and sold) a dozen examples of Moscato d’Asti. Where they are ‘on’, they are pretty irresistible. But there were only a handful that were always on the shelf. Saracco was always part of that inner circle. Paolo Saracco is the Moscato whisperer, and his wines hit that perfect balance of fruit, acidity and sparkle, with extra points for clarity and purity, year in and year out. He is a master of Moscato magic.
Ian d’Agata of Vinous Media has the same kind of passion for the subject as we do. A small excerpt from his piece on Moscato that he wrote last year sets the tone, “Asti and Moscato d’Asti are two of Italy’s best-known and most delicious sparkling wines. Light in alcohol and strong on flavor, Asti and Moscato d’Asti are the ultimate party wines, but they can be remarkably nuanced and terroir-specific, too. At their best, the wines offer aromas and flavors of orange blossom, pear, peach, sage, vanilla and other sweet spices, and are an absolute joy to drink on their own, as aperitifs or with fruit and cream-based desserts.”
His review of the outstanding 2017 Saracco Moscato d’Asti ended with the phrase, “For my money, this estate is the DRC of Moscato d’Asti.” That is pretty spectacular praise for any fermented beverage. Clearly his review of that particular bottling took the Moscato adulation to new heights, with all of the glowing words and the 93 point score. But we can’t really disagree. We are fans and will openly admit we love a good Moscato (How could you not?) and Paolo has been one of the stars for a long time.
But with the new vintage, Vinous’ D’Agata upped his own ante, writing of the 2018,” Luminous pale straw-green with golden tinges. Captivating aromas of orange blossom, lemon verbena, vanilla, sage and ripe grapefruit nectar. Dense, juicy and suave, presenting a multilayered, complex set of flavors similar to the aromas. The finish is very long, resonating with a floral topnote and delightful vibrancy. Outstanding, concentrated, complex and very pure Moscato d’Asti…94 points.” All of that prose, a point higher score, and still a price under $13!
There are probably a lot of people that tuned out when they noted this is about a fruity, frizzante white wine. Even more will be incensed that ‘big-time’ wine merchants would waste their time talking about such a wine to anyone other than ‘grandma’. Move over grandma, we’re right there with you. We have tasted the great wines of the world, and appreciate them for what they are. But there is nothing wrong with enjoying some sheer, unadulterated pleasure in the form of a well made Moscato d’Asti.
We have no problem professing our love for this intentionally pandering, joyous white. Saracco’s effort is, as always, seriously delicious. If you are already a fan of the genre, your path is clear. If not, you need to have the experience. Simply the Saracco Moscato d’Asti 2018 is one of the best versions from one of the best makers. Fresh, lively, low in alcohol and captivating, if the ‘DRC of Moscato’ doesn’t put a smile on your face, too bad for you. Joy in a bottle.