This is devoted to a more casual, comfortable wine moment. We are keenly aware that we, and other merchants, spend the majority of promotion energy on ‘superlative’ wines. Yes the industry has become very much about ‘highest scores’, ‘greatest ever’ kind of rhetoric. It’s amazing how elevated the jargon has become. Well, this piece is about ‘comfortable’ wines you don’t have to think about but serve their purpose with style.
What do we mean? Well, while we know it is risky not overstate our case because people might think we aren’t enthusiastic enough, we aren’t going to sling about grandiose terms to try and convince you that these wines will change your life. Most wines aren’t the ‘greatest ever’ and what the definition of that would even be is in the eye, or palate, of the beholder. But we are going to tell you that wines like this are absolutely necessary.
The vintners don’t drink Barolo every day. They like to have tasty, serviceable wines for the table. For those mid-week burgers, a take-out pizza, or a quick pasta dish, wines like this that are easy-drinking, tasty, unpretentious and well priced are invaluable companions.
This pair comes from a house we have worked with for a long time, and also sells big time Barolos. But they have also been a great place to procure ‘comfortable’ wines. Silvio Grasso isn’t exactly a household name and these little wines aren’t going to make the winery famous because they aren’t going to get the reviews that will cause people to pay attention. But if you want a glass of something to go along with everyday fare and be interesting enough to keep your attention, these are worthy candidates.
The Silvio Grasso Nebbiolo2018 is a fine representation of the varietal with the high toned minerality, rosehips, and sweet earth with a central theme of supple red fruits. The grapes here are 95% Nebbiolo and the remaining 5% a combination of Merlot and Barbera from vines planted between 1980 and 2000. This vintage has created a kinder, gentler, suppler, more user-friendly version of Nebbiolo without the edgy tannins that can sometimes make a stern impression and a sweet middle of cherry fruit. Perfectly quaffable, authentic (it’s from La Morra) Nebbiolo that you can fire up with a modest midweek meal and it will elevate the experience without denting the wallet much ($14.98)
The Silvio Grasso Barbera d’Alba 2017 represents the same kind of delicious pop-and-serve choice. Barbera can sometimes have a pretty stern lick of acidity but this rendition is supple, round, gentle and fruit-driven. It is 100% Barbera harvested from 35-year-old vines and is done entirely in stainless steel. As we have noted in other pieces, some of the 2017s from Piedmont have been particularly plush and engaging, almost New World in their suppleness and this one definitely has that profile. Again, at only $14.98, the price angst is greatly reduced.
We could try to ratchet up the prose because that is what people expect to hear these days. But we’d rather represent these for what they are…delicious, engaging, low-cost options when you just want a surprisingly good glass of wine and don’t necessarily need a lot of drama to go along with it. We all have those days and these are an answer.