ROCKIN’ RIOJA FROM RODA

This has been a rather interesting story since the onset.  When we first ran into the label years ago, it was one of the more impressive newcomers we had seen.  Yes it was Rioja within the definition of the appellation, but somehow there was a deeper color, plumper mouth feel, and bluer fruit than we had generally experienced in our extensive ‘research’ with a variety of labels in the region.   We took this fresher fruit style to be a more modern but very successful take on the genre and we were big fans in those early years.

Some time later, new offerings from Roda seemed to miss the mark, and what had been an exciting new source for us previously was eclipsed by a number of things we found as we continued our research into the region.  We weren’t as enthusiastic in seeking out the newest releases and, for a time, we didn’t see the wine at all.  A couple of years ago the Roda label reappeared with a new distributer and clearly had rediscovered their mojo.  This 2019, essentially their second tier bottling, is the best Roda we have tasted in that series.

Roda’s history isn’t as lengthy as some of the bodegas in the region.  Their explanation is “in the late 80’s, a new generation renews the vine and wine sector. Carmen Daurella and Mario Rotllant arrived in La Rioja with the firm intention of creating a project able to provide the world of winemaking with something new. This is where a fascinating, ambitious, exigent and unprecedented adventure began: Bodegas Roda.”  We aren’t sure what that means but they seem to be doing everything right.

Their fruit comes only from their estate vineyards and certain parcels are selected for each expression (there are five) of Roda’s wines.  In their words, “In RODA we look for the parcels that that year have ripened in a red fruit profile, with the expression of the aromas present in the edge of the glass, ready to be felt immediately; with sweet spice notes and a kind freshness. In the mouth the red fruit carries the importance, with a fresh, long, silky, voluptuous and continuous mouth pass.”  The vineyards are sustainable, and no chemicals are used.

The vines for the Roda Rioja Reserva 2019 bottling are over 30 years old and bush vines, harvested by hand into small crates.  The grapes are sorted on a conveyor belt then fermented in upright French, temperature-controlled oak vats.  Malolactic occurs in 225L barriques.  The wine then spends 14 months in French oak, 40% new, and then 22 months in bottle until release.  The blend for this vintage is 91% Tempranillo, 5% Graciano and 4% Garnacha.  The wine has gotten some nice press already.

Luis Gutierrez from Wine Advocate wrote, “The wines are quite transparent of the vintage conditions, with the 2019 Roda being round, lush and velvety, with polished and sleek tannins and more volume and concentration, reflecting a low-yielding, warm and dry year. This is a cuvée with more red than black fruit produced with 91% Tempranillo, 5% Graciano and 4% Garnacha from 30-year-old vines fermented with indigenous yeasts and matured in French barriques, 50% of them new, the other 50% second-use for 14 months. It’s a red with 14.5% alcohol, ripe fruit, measured oak and integrated acidity…92 points.”

And from James Suckling, “Fruity and primary with rich black cherries, red plums and damsons, adorned by some coffee, black pepper and chocolate. A pretty, modern, juicy expression of Rioja with a medium to full body, rounded by assertive and fine-grained tannins. Long, with some dark chocolate in the finish. Drink from 2023… 93 points.”

That said, we’ll politely disagree a little.  We’ll give the scribes the benefit of the doubt since both notes are nearly a year old. Presumably this wine has developed further in the bottle because what we tasted was pretty sensational.  It hits all of the notes that the best Roda efforts have.  The fruit is bright, tender and complex, with the dark red fruits they claim they are looking for in full bloom and even leaning a little blue.  Black cherry, ripe plum, and even impressions of blackberry, spice notes, vanilla, dark chocolate, it is succinctly balanced and both modern and engaging. This is an expressive, hedonistic, beautiful, refined bottle of Rioja that really rang our proverbial bell from the first whiff.

THRILLING NEW RHONE WHITE: GONNET VACQUEYRAS BLANC

There are many stories we have told before, including the one about Guillaume Gonnet. For those that haven’t run across this before, we’ll retell the story. Guillaume Gonnet is the name of one of the proprietors of Rhone estate that is called Font du Michelle.  We have been  big fans of this estate for a long time. 

The ‘style of the house’ seems to always showcase a certain sappy sexiness to the fruit that makes them particularly engaging in the glass.  The family has been in the Rhone Valley for some 400 years and settled this particular spot around 1880.  Etienne Gonnet created this estate under the Font de Michelle moniker back in 1950, and it is now run by Guillaume and Bertand Gonnet. 

When given the opportunity to move some additional wine through ‘appropriate channels’, Guillaume created the Guillaume Gonnet label. It has been an extremely fruitful source and we have sold a number of different selections based on the remarkable quality and value that this label has delivered. This offering diverts from our usual position thus far with the Gonnet wines as it is white wine! To take it a step further, we don’t ever remember offering a white Vacqueyras, well, ever! Vacqueyras only became its own appellation in 1990, apparently with whites as an approved portion of the mix though they only represent about 3% of the production.

Like we said, we’ve not proffered one before but this little jewel from Guillaume Gonnet definitely made an impression. The Guillaume Gonnet Vacqueyras Blanc La Sauvage 2022 is composed of 70% Grenache Blanc, 15% Viognier, 15% Clairette from 40+year-old vines situated in sand and light clay soils situated on terraces. The term ‘sauvage’ (wild) refers to the open spaces and natural garrigue that surrounds the vineyard. The grapes are destemmed and fermented entirely in stainless steel via natural yeasts. It is not put through malolactic to preserve the wine’s bright supportive acidity.

The Grenache Blanc delivers the thrust with a broad, rich, unctuous palate flashing engaging elements of  pear, peach, white flowers and citrus, with some florality and honeyed tones courtesy of the Viognier with the Clairette reenforcing the underlying verve. Plump and textured, this is a terrific white with the dual ability to play with a variety of Asian dishes or provide a compelling choice to just haul off and drink. It provides the kind of profile you get with a Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc at a fraction of the price ($18.98). Simply a very tasty white.

‘LUCKY’ FIND IN THE VALUE PINOT DEPARTMENT

Having had enough experience in the wine biz to understand the broad picture, it is almost amusing to us how much of the industry spends its time trying to bamboozle the public with ‘smoke and mirrors’ or, worse yet, proceed without any clue what the market really needs. There are also, in truth, many glaring deficiencies in the marketplace that are easily identifiable to anyone who takes the time to look. Unfortunately, many of the efforts to fill those needs are, shall we say, not really solutions. Take for example value priced Pinot Noir. There are countless dull, overmanipulated, or just plain crummy ‘candidates’ that offer themselves to bargain buyers. Finding something actually viable is cause for celebration.

We can’t say we’ve ever heard of Lucky Rock before. In truth, the label picturing a snake coiled around a pickax and the fact that they also produced wine in cans gave us cause to pause. But in the end, the juice was plush, generous and, most importantly, honest, and the price was right. That’s what made it a worthwhile addition.

A look at how they talk about themselves gives a good clue about where these folks are coming from, “Some blather about “terroir” 🙄 but we’re essentially talking about micro-regions. Yeah there is a lot more science-y stuff to it, but this is the essence of what is important. Too many wineries get all hung up on The Vineyard as the be-all/end-all, forgetting that where it is from is only important if it’s making what’s in the bottle good.”

“At Lucky Rock Wine Co., the name of the vineyard or the valley isn’t important, it’s whether it makes a better wine – solo or blended. We find incredible Pinot Noir vineyards that almost magically blend together in the bottle to create a seamless, harmonious, delicious whole…Each vineyard is chosen for some specific quality in the grapes – a certain flavor, some pop of acid, a select smell. We mix when it serves the taste buds, and don’t when it rhymes on its own.

“The vineyards are in the service of our Lucky Rock County Cuvée Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc. That’s why our labels list the counties with the best damn vineyards we’ve found, whether it be one or several. Our wines aren’t pretending to be some swanky, expensive French Grand Cru Burgundy or Bordeaux Blanc, but those vineyards, with a bit of our help in the winery, make wines that are just as worthy (and a whole lot less pricey) for throwing down with Beethoven or bumping Kendrick.”

Within that context, this particular version, the Lucky Rock Pinot Noir County Cuvee 2021, is a mix of 70% Sonoma fruit with the other 30% coming from Monterey County. The fruit is dark red sporting flavors of black cherry, pomegranate, and red berries, with some surprising weight, and notes of spice, subtle savory herbs and a touch of tea. Plump, juicy, and ample, this is distinctly varietal but also with the kind of substance that might appeal to a broader audience as it is no shrinking violet at 14.1% ABV.

The label states ‘family owned and operated’ (brothers Aaron and Jesse Inman) and everything about their presentation makes the point that the intent is to make enjoyable, fruit driven Pinot at a great price, without any particular concern about if it was going to be served to the British royalty (“Wines made with intension not pretension” is prominently on their website). It also has a screw cap so you don’t have to worry about it being corked, or even having a corkscrew on hand. This is definitely ‘Pinot for the people’ done right and, like they say, that’s the important part.

By the way, as it turned out, this wasn’t a complete shot in the dark. Our research later found that prior releases from these folks were given nice words by James Suckling on a couple of wines and their 2019 Pinot Noir was included in a Wine Spectator article entitled “10 Stellar West Coast Pinot Noirs Under $30”. Guess this time we were a little late to the party which doesn’t happen very often. In any case a good new source for value Pinot is always welcome.

GOOD GERMAN DRY RIESLING

We have been pretty vocal regarding our general dislike for the results of the newish trend towards trocken (dry) German Riesling. To clarify, we are mainly targeting the trockens from the Mosel houses, many of whom have been making delightful traditional styled Rieslings for decades, in some cases centuries. Egged on by the sommelier community a number of top flight Mosel producers are dedicating increasing portions of their production to dry wines. Sadly we find most of them lean and skeletal with little innate charm beyond clearing your palate for the next bite.

We also have to wonder why? The Mosel’s classic, crystalline, fruity Rieslings are unique in the wine world and pair spectacularly with a variety of Pacific Rim, Island, and far Eastern dishes. Plus they are newcomers to a genre that is already beautifully (and better) executed in Austria, Alsace, and Australia, not to mention their own back yard.

They have been making excellent dry Riesling in the Rheinpfalz and Rheinhessen for a long time. The growing conditions are different and they trockens from those regions have more body, palate weight, texture, and substance. One of the house favorites for trockens around here is Wittmann in the Rheinhessen. Hand harvested from organically farmed (and certified biodynamic) estate vineyards around the village of Westhofen, the grapes are fermented via native yeasts and matured in large neutral casks.

The nose shows notes of lemon and lime zest, a little honeysuckle, some notes like fresh grain, and stone fruit pith. In the mouth there is tension, but not at the expense of texture. There is weight on the palate with flavors mirroring the nose along with some earthy minerality and chalk notes. If you’re looking for a fine example of German trocken, the Wittmann Riesling Rheinhessen Estate Trocken 2021 is where you go.

From James Suckling, “Stunning nose of ripe pear, mandarin orange and smoke. Impressive concentration for the challenging vintage with a nice juiciness and good chalky minerality. Long, surprisingly complex and harmonious finish, the acidity already beautifully integrated. From biodynamically grown grapes with Respekt certification. Vegan. Drink or hold. Screw cap…92 points.”

From Wine Advocate, “From Westhofen’s stonier soils and assembling 28 different vats, Wittmann’s 2021 Riesling trocken Estate is the former Gutswein, but it’s already a wine that is more than just a Riesling pleasure. The white-yellow colored wine offers a clear and spicy, pure and mineral nose with ripe, elegant fruit with herbal nuances. Mouthfilling, round and textured on the palate, this is a juicy yet pure, saline and finessed, very stimulating dry Riesling with delicate lemon bitters on the finish that reveals some ripe white-peach aromas on the aftertaste. This was vinified in large oak and stainless steel (70/30) and aged on the full lees for nearly six months. Tasted at the domaine in August 2022. 11.5% stated alcohol. Screw-cap closure…91+ points.”

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A WORD ON SAKE: HEAVEN

A little over a year ago we reintroduced Japanese sake to our portfolio, something we did for a long time at the Orange location. We have what we think is a tight but well-curated selection of traditional sakes, and have seen a variety of interesting things from less traditional origins (like Brooklyn). We ran across something recently however that is perhaps one of the most intriguing pair of Sakes marketed under the Heavensake label, Heavensake Junmai Daiginjo Sake (Urakasumi) and Heavensake Junmai Daiginjo Sake (Dassai). For you hard core Sake fans, the individual specs of each effort are displayed on the site next to the respective bottlings. And we’ll tell you up front they aren’t cheap. But they stand alone against any Sake we have tasted at any price.

What’s the difference? Well they are each made at a storied Sake house and both are at the highest level of quality, Junmi Daiginjo, using high highly milled, top quality Nishiki rice. They are made under supervision of the same outside specialist. The seimaibuai (the percentage of the rice remaining after milling) is extremely low in both cases, with the Urakasumi under 50% and the Dessai below 39%! Just given the milling and the reputation, these would no doubt be outstanding traditional sakes.

What makes them unique is a French connection. Regis Camus is the world-renowned chef de caves at Maison Rare Champagne. Admired for his skillful blending, Regis defined the soul of Heavensake, immersing himself in the spirit and tradition of Japan yet clearly injecting his wine experience in the mix. His respectful ambition was to compose unique sakes showcasing the power of blending “à la française” while honoring the magnificent heritage of Japanese sake making. That he has done with aplomb.

Both of these have the classic floral/anise aromatics that are recurring themes in this historic beverage. But there is also more evident nuance and stone fruit character in both the aromatics and palate that is truly distinctive and take them to the next level. The fruitiness and polish on the palate is top of the heap. But what truly defines the efforts of this ‘wine guy’ making sake is the round, smooth texture and balance that gives them an almost wine ethos. It is that last element that truly sets it apart from anything we have tasted in the category. A complete sake experience unlike any other. (Go to Heavensake)

NEW ‘FRENCH’ BUBBLY IN AMERICA

It has been a very long time since the first invasion of California by a French Champagne house, Chandon, way back in the 70s. Many more have come since. But over time a lot of the prices have edged up to the point where one can find actual French Champagne for the same kind of prices. This new offering from Pommery serves as an exciting new and well priced option for the genre.

We have sold the French Pommery Champagne off and on for years. But we saw the Louis Pommery Reserve Brut NV California bottling for the first time just recently, and it fills a niche that, at present, isn’t really being addressed…a good California sparkler under $20. As we know with the French, that value factor could change tomorrow. But for the time being this is a find and is definitely made to be a fruit forward, crowd pleasing, easy style.

Maybe we are picky but, while the French Pommery announces their founding in 1857, there is no specific statement on when this program began (there is also an English version in the UK) or where the grapes come from. One can presume that ‘grapes carefully selected across California vineyards’ is about as much info as they are going to provide. They did make the point that this cuvee is 100% Chardonnay and that the production was overseen by Clement Pierlot, the current chef de caves at Champagne Pommery. But, you know us, in the end it’s about the juice and this French inspired domestic sparkler is pretty appealing on that score.

The bubbles are refined and the mousse is creamy. The nose offers bright scent of green apples and citrus tones with a whiff of minerality. The palate is fairly generous while still bright and lifted and it finishes with notes of yellow stone fruits. You wouldn’t necessarily guess domestic at first and, once you get into it, you likely won’t care. It fills the bill nicely for a good price ($19.98).

A FRESH TAKE ON PASO WHITE: FAVORITE NEIGHBOR CHARDONNAY

The back story here is worth knowing.  The property was assembled by two orphaned brothers, Dick and Claude Booker, back in the ‘20s.  Over the decades their property grew to nearly 1200 acres of land which they ultimately left to charity on their passing.  They were exceptional farmers and humanitarians.  Eric and Lisa Jensen acquired a 100 acre parcel of the estate in 2001.  Eric learned the ropes working with Justin Smith (Saxum) and Stephan Asseo (L’Aventure).  In 2005 Jensen launched his own winery which he named for the brothers, Booker.  This producer has been pretty much a juggernaut since its inception.  Booker Syrahs and Rhone Blends moved into the spotlight almost from the outset.

Their own words define the ongoing vision of the estate, “Booker is dedicated to the pursuit of farming perfection, constantly striving to find the perfect balance in the vineyard through certified organic farming practices as well as methods that draw inspiration from biodynamics. The westside of Paso Robles terroir is unique, boasting extreme vertical slopes and calcareous soils. Limestone beds with very little water make it hard to believe that anything could grow, yet the Booker estate produces some of the greatest wine grapes on earth.”. 

They eventually they decided to add to the portfolio by creating an adjunct label which was originally marketed un the Booker banner, using their relationships, particularly that with Asseo as the inspiration for the new name, My Favorite Neighbor.  It didn’t stop there as Jensen went on to create another label in honor of his parents who, in his words, “loved wine, but in today’s world, couldn’t have afforded a quality bottle.” Harvey and Harriet is the brand.

The reach for quality grapes has spread beyond the confines of Jensen’s estate to include other like-minded growers for additional fruit, organics and biodynamics being the words of the day every day.  Everything is made at the solar powered winery at Booker.  Even the purchase by mega corporation Constellation hasn’t changed the mantra…yet.  What they have done is give each of the labels more or less their own stage and, while you can get info on each of them from the same website, they don’t use the Booker name on the other wines any more.  They also probably had a hand in creating a white wine program though, clearly from the results, Jensen’s philosophy inspired the tasty, unique new lineup of whites. 

Some might think California doesn’t need another Chardonnay, but the My Favorite Neighbor Blanc Chardonnay 2021 is expansive, palate coating efforts that has its own unique personality. Sure it’s ripe and layered. But it also boasts elements that one might associate with a something white from the northern Rhone. There’s spice, tropical notes, baked apple, and a richness to the fruit that some might confuse with sweetness. In any case this is a very likeable, maybe even a little exotic wine that lovers of big, bold domestic Chardonnay should embrace.

Erin Brook of robertparker.com liked it too, “The 2021 MFN Blanc Chardonnay is very ripe in style with scents of banana chip, apple pie, jasmine, allspice and brown sugar. The full-bodied palate is packed with ripe, spicy fruits and plenty of refreshing acidity, and it finishes long with a satiny, mouth-coating texture. It’s an old-school style reminiscent of Napa that fans of ripe, oaked Chardonnays will enjoy…97 points.”

ROSÉ ROUNDUP

First of all, our apologies for just getting around to our first words on pink wine in the middle of summer. We’re usually better than that but the supply chain issues are still a reality. A lot of the things we are most excited about just got here. There are still some favorites that are ‘on the water’. We would have loved to have them back in mid-May but it didn’t happen. For the locals, you know that summer itself was a little late this year, but it has come upon us with a vengeance. Hence, it is now time to talk pink.

First off a couple of notes. The 2022 vintage in Europe was generally as warm one. While that is a great thing for red wines in most cases, the effect is sometimes the opposite for whites and pinks. Simplistically speaking, when the grapes get ripe, there is plenty of fruit and body to the wines, but a corresponding drop in the acidity levels. For that reason a lot of our past go-tos were showing a little soft in the middle in 2022 and lacking the backbone to have the necessary brightness that makes rosé so appealing.

Don’t get us wrong. We found enough to like, and a few things we really like. But the ‘hit ratio’ was down quite a bit. We have never felt the need to adhere to any particular numeric guidelines. There’s no particular amount of anything we need to have. But what we do have has to measure up to our criteria. If that means fewer wines in a particular category, so be it.

We’ll also make another point about pink wine. Consumers have been given the notion that rosés have to be just-off-the-boat super fresh. That’s not necessarily an axiom in all cases. Many rosés benefit from a few months to a year in the bottle and drink well until age three. They may have a touch less snap, but reveal more of their origins and pick up nuance provided they have sufficient acidity in the going in.

So don’t ignore the 2021s as you fill your pink needs. It was a cooler vintage and the majority of them are in a really good place right now. We know there are cynics that will accuse us of just saying that to sell the older stocks. We were selling pinks long before they became the item they are today and would argue that anyone who really knows their stuff would not say otherwise. That said, we have both as ’22s and ’21s as options, so whatever you choose is fine with us.

Briefly on the subject of very tasty 2021s, here are a few to consider…

Chateau Sainte Roseline Cotes de Provence Rosé Cru Classé Lampe de Meduse 2021-One of the original Cru Classé Provence rosés (there are only 14 that are permitted to carry that designation), this blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, and Syrah is settling in nicely with red berry and red melon fruit and citrus with classic Provenҫal herb nuance, subtle minerality, and a refreshing finishing salinity. Robertparker.com 91 and a special price ($14.99)

Leo Steen Rose of Grenache Sonoma Valley 2021-The Leo Steen Rose of Grenache Sonoma Valley Rose Ranch 2021 comes from the Rose Vineyard at the base of Sugarloaf not far from Kenwood in Sonoma Valley. Sugarloaf is an extinct volcano and this vineyard, made up mainly of clay laced with lava, has been farmed biodynamically since the 1990s. One of our complaint about domestic rose (besides that there are way to many of them) is that they are often blowsy and alcoholic. Not this one! Steen, a European sommelier in a past life, understands what rosé is about and this Grenache based effort has that euro feel with a bit heartier fruit. Special price $15.99 (was $22) !

Clos Cibonne Rosé Cuvee Speciale des Vignettes 2021– A brilliant and substantial rosé made from old vinte plots of the arcane, ancient grape Tibouren. This can hang with any of those ‘special reserve’ bottlings from Ott and Esclans but with a more textural personality and substance. A 94 point selection from robertparker.com with comments, “…matured in old barrels. It has a delicate, refined bouquet with aromas of spring flowers, garrigue, red berries, tonca bean and iodine as well as delicate oaky hints. Medium to full-bodied, lively and delicate, it has a lively, fine acidity structure and perfectly well-integrated oaky notes. Perfectly ripe, it will offer a broad drinking window…”

Poli Family Ile de Beauté Rosé Nielluc+Sciacca 2021-Corsican grape varieties Neulluccio and Sciaccarellu are still relatively unknown to most folks on this side of the Atlantic, as are the wines of Corsica in general. But this Mediterranean island is perfectly primed for growing crisp rosés with minerality and a haunting salinity from the sea’s influence. Crisp, bright, high-toned and floral, this is a superb pink for food and a cooler-edged choice for aperitif applications. A steal at $10.98 (was $16.99).

Clos Alivu Patrimonio Rosé 2021– Made by the same winemaker as the Poli but from a different estate, this is once again the essence of Corsica…crisp, nervy rosé with flowers, mineral, and salinity reflecting its seaside origins, all augmenting the delicate berry fruit. Made of Niellucciu, which has been genetically linked to Sangiovese, which thrives on the island of Corsica. The naturally low yields result in wines with more freshness and finesse than those made from its Tuscan cousin. Was 24.98, now $14.98 as we make room for our late shipments of pink wine.

The best of the 2022s:

Saint Damien Gigondas Rosé 2022 Saint Damien Gigondas Rosé 2022– This rosé doesn’t have a long history but this bottling, from one of the absolute top producers in Gigondas is round and ample with a broad palate of red berries and surprising nuance of spice, earth and flowers. A touch rounder than the stunning 2021, this is one of the most complete pinks in the store.

Commanderie de la Bargemone Coteaux d’Aix en Provence Rosé 2022-Typically one of the ‘go-to’ stars of delivering interesting, juicy fruit components, with bright acids and plenty of personality at a really comfortable price, this Bargemone hits all the right notes once again. It may, in fact, be the most engaging versions in recent memory as it reflects the fatter fruit f the vintage and still manages to maintain the necessary lift. The stars of the show are Grenache and Cinsault with Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Sauvignon Blanc in a supporting role. Too easy to drink.

Domaine de Fontsainte Corbières Gris de Gris Rosé 2022– We don’t even remember how long this has been one of the anchors of the rosé section. The 2022 is, as always, a blend of 90% Grenache Gris, 5% Carignan, and 5% Mourvèdre, a saignée rosé made from Grenache Gris. One of the most consistent value pinks on the planet.

Bastide Blanche Bandol Rosé 2022– Bandol is a unique and special category, and the predominance of Mourvedre gives them a kind of Provence with attitude vibe. Sure there’s plenty of red berry at the center but it is augmented with notes of spice, mineral, tonic, and that intriguing earthy/musky note we associate with Mourvedre. There is also Grenache, Cinsault, and white grapes Clairette and Ugni Blanc in the mix. A 92 from robertparker.com.

La Coste Coteaux d’Aix en Provence Rosé 2022-If you were making something to work itself into current market sentiment, this would be a good profile. They make their organic practices into a banner and promote the fact that this is an organic wine. “Organic” and “Provence” will push a lot of buttons but the wine’s round, juicy, outgoing demeanor will win friends. Pretty Grenache-y up front with support from Cinsault and Cabernet Sauvignon, this plays nicely to the crowd.

Chateau Pradeaux Bandol Rosé 2022– Thus far, once again, this is the star of the lineup. Deeper color, redder fruits and all kinds of nuance of earth, spice, wild herbs, and that distinct Mourvedre thing, this is packed with character. The folks here have controlled the property since the French Revolution and work as organically as possible. It’s 50% Mourvedre, 50% Cinsault, 93 from robertparker.com and super tasty.

ANTHONY THEVENET MORGON LES CLOS 2021

The name is familiar. There are lots of folks named Thevenet in southern Burgundy. But they are typically white wine producers. Associating the name Thevenet with Beaujolais is, however, something fairly new for most folks. The domaine itself has only been around since 2013, and Anthony Thevenet has had to learn on the fly given the wide variations in vintages since the domaine’s inception.

Anthony is a member of Beaujolais new wave of young, passionate vignerons that hold as ideal the purity and legacy in Cru Beaujolais. In 2010, Thévenet inherited his grandfather’s vineyard in Villié-Morgon, with vines ranging from 40-150 years old. That same year he began working alongside Beaujolais icons Jean Foillard and George Descombes in the field and in the cellar. He honed his skills with these established producers and, based on this wine, he learned well. The vintage 2021 was no slam dunk but this is a gem by any standard.

All the wines are vinified with a carbonic maceration without any sulfur added until just before bottling, and they ferment at temperatures no lower than 16°C. There are no added yeasts, and the fermentations are done in a gentle, infusion style, and can last between eight to thirty days, with the latter rarer and only employed for the top wines. There is no fining or filtration, and the total sulfite levels are under 15mg/L (15ppm…extremely low). The purity and clarity of each wine’s terroir expression is due to Thevenet’s ultra-low sulfite content and his undivided attention to detail.

This is the first bottling of this cuvee, Anthony Thevenet Morgon Le Clos 2021, is from 20-year-old vines situated in granitic bedrock and sand. Even though it is done with carbonic, it has none of the cursory, simple fruitiness of a lot of commercial Beaujolais. It is, instead, more in the Burgundian, ‘old school’ style of mentor Foillard, but with a more focused style. There is weight and richness, complex aromatics, and a refined palate authority. Rather than blend it into other Morgon bottlings, Thevenet felt this cuvee made its own statement. There’s an abundance of red fruits (cherry, plum, mulberry) with subtle underpinnings of mineral as you expect from such a site, and an augmenting savory backbone. Precise and delicious, this is one of those wines that performs well above most people’s perception of its appellation.

Apparently Neal martin of Vinous, one of the few to deliver early words on the 2021s, was also in our camp,” The 2021 Morgon le Clos is the maiden release from vines just in front of the winery on soils of clay with a little sand. it undergoes a 10-day maceration. This is sprightly on the nose with rose petal infused transparent red fruit. Very elegant. The palate is medium-bodied with a life affirming mineral-driven entry. Vivid and refined with a precise tart finish that is simply one of the best you will come across in this vintage. Brilliant… 94 points.”

ANOTHER RISING STAR IN CHABLIS

We’ll start with what is essentially the importer’s notes. Sebastien Christophe is a budding superstar from Chablis but is the ultimate underdog. While known for its stolid rigidity, France’s wine culture still allows for a lot of mobility. That’s how a young kid gifted just a couple of acres of average vineyard land in Chablis could rise up seemingly out of nowhere to make brilliant wine from the three most heralded Premier Crus in the region. That happened because he was also gifted with a good bit of moxie and a cranking work ethic, which will you get far anywhere.

What makes Sebastien’s wines so great? Well, as is the case in Chablis, it’s not the winemaking, which is pretty standard for the region, as the goal here is never to showcase cellar prowess, but rather the nature of the vineyard itself. Sebastien vinifies and ages wine overwhelmingly in stainless steel, as is the general practice of the region. Less than 10% of the wines see cellar aging in neutral oak barrels, providing a little textural and structural contrast to the bristly energy of stainless steel.
He started with a small half hectare parcel of Petit Chablis from his family and made a run for it. After winemaking school he started to vinify this tiny parcel and has slowly acquired small parcels of village vineyards and a lot of Petit Chablis land. He also rents parcels that he farms entirely himself. Today, he has three premier crus on the right bank of the Serein river, Fourchaume, Mont de Milieu and Montée de Tonnerre. Except for the wines designated for Paris hotspots, almost all of his wines are exported.

Chablis itself is a place that is changing. Obviously the soils and exposures remain the same. But the warming climate and consequential erratic weather have had impact. There have been unpredictable frosts that have devastated some harvest. Plus the heat can have a negative effect on acidity. But there are some plusses. You don’t get searing acidity as much these days. The problem is actually maintaining adequate acidity to support the fruit and keep the mineral laced, brisk backbone that is an important part of the region’s identity. The best winemakers like Sebastien know what to do, and Mont de Milieu is a vineyard has many faces stylistically depending on the producer, but is a perfect ‘centrist’ for today’s Chablis.

The grapes are picked by hand, pressed, settled in tank overnight, then racked off the heavy sediments after one day before beginning its low temperature fermentation. The spontaneous wild yeast fermentation lasts between 1-2 months and takes place in stainless steel (80%) and the remainder in 228-liter oak barrels (new, 1-, 2- and 3-year-old, the total new wood is approximately 7%). Battonage (lees stirring) is sometimes made, but only in the steel tanks and the frequency depends on the vintage—warm years nothing and in colder ones no more than two times.

This Christophe Chablis Mont de Milieu 2021 shows the perfect combination of the more tender fruit of these warmer times but with perfectly proportioned minerality and acidity to stay true to its origins. Apple, apricot, and lime alongside chalky minerality and some salinity, it is clean and insistent but with just the right volume. It is for Chablis drinkers to enjoy and not designed to overpower. In other words, perfectly engaging. None of the media has caught up to this vintage as yet (many are several vintages behind with this producer) so there is nothing else to add to our own enthusiastic recommendation. Well priced for the performance and pedigree.