The southern Rhone is home to a number of small estates that do great work in relative obscurity. We have made it our mission to look into as many as we can and that process has turned up a few hidden gems. While we can tell stories about a number of domains that we have been working with for a long time, or discovered before they became famous, La Roubine isn’t one of them. In fact we didn’t first see this house until the 2010 vintage. We bought some Gigondas from that vintage based not on press, or fame, but because it was simply a delicious, soulful bottle of wine. Crazy, huh?
Even though we have a small cache of that wine probably thanks to the media-centric world we live in (it did get a rather low-key 91 from Spectator in a vintage full of 95s), we are still going to sing the praise of this stylish small domaine. The domaine itself isn’t all that old in a place where some families can trace their roots back centuries. It was only 1990 when Eric Ughetto took over the family vineyards located in Gigondas.
he was joined by Sophie in the late 90s and the two of them decided to make wine with their own grapes. They defined the estate “La Roubine” in 2000 with the first bottled vintage of Gigondas. Today the company is still a family run business. Eric works at the wine cellar, while Sophie manages both the cellar and the business. They both do vineyard work. Though the estate has expanded via inheritance, purchase, and lease (which the couple farms), it is still relatively small with 15.5 hectares of vines (38 acres) spread over four appellations.
They bring it ‘new school’, which these days is actually ‘old school’. They use no chemical pesticides, herbicides or fertilizers, are agriculture biologique (organic) certified, and, because of their modest size, can wait on harvesting individual parcels until they are optimally ripe. The harvests are by hand, as is the first and second sorting, only natural yeasts are employed, fermentations takes place in concrete, and everything is bottled unfined and unfiltered. These are reds that speak of their origins, but also provide plenty hedonistic pleasure via their open, round, ripe, tender fruit.
Our focus today is on Eric’s sub-$20 duo, Sablet and Seguret, both appellations located in the higher ground near the base of the Dentelles de Montmirail. Both areas have enjoyed status as an appellated Cotes du Rhone Villages for over 40 years. Their higher-ground locales provide cooler nights that allow the wines to retain a certain freshness, but there is plenty of charisma to these efforts.
The Domaine La Roubine Cotes du Rhone Villages Sablet 2015 comes from 30-year-old vines, this particular assemblage being 70% Grenache, 25% Syrah, and 5% Cinsault. Plush kirsch and blackcurrant fruit is the center of attention, with underpinnings of spice and a subtle streak of stony minerality. There are also some savory elements as the grapes are not destemmed. The acids are tame in this vintage and the tannins are ripe, the wine itself layered and tasty, and very true to the region.
Domaine La Roubine Cotes du Rhone Villages Seguret 2015 has a somewhat cooler edge, no doubt thanks to the 30% Mourvedre (the rest is Grenache). The kirsch tones here are front and center with the Mourvedre providing pepper, garrigue and some earthy cocoa that add dimension. A little closer to the vest than the Sablet but there is plenty to like here too.
Some of you might wonder if we have any convincing scores that validate these wines. In truth, we don’t. La Roubine doesn’t get a lot of media attention in the first place, and what it does receive is on the Gigondas and Vacqueyras, not these. That’s OK as these punch well above their weight class, delivering pretty serious yet engaging wine for rather modest fares. We have been impressed the few times we have had Eric Ughetto’s wines. Numbers are all well and good, but delicious matters, too. You can’t brag about a producer most folks have never heard of from somewhat obscure appellations. But you can sure enjoy the heck out of them, and that’s what matters most. We even have a few bottles left of that 2010 La Roubine Gigondas if you want to see where these are headed or drink a mature bottle.