ESPAÑA – Page 2

JUNIOR CHATEAUNEUF LOOK-ALIKE FROM SPAIN

In the early days of the Spanish invasion in the 90s, this was a staple and an important part of our lineup. It was also one of the first of its kind. Robert Parker himself said of the 1997 version in his review, “Readers can be sure I will be purchasing several cases for enjoying over the next several years. It tastes like an excellent Chateauneuf du Pape, and even though they can be terrific values, a Chateauneuf du Pape of this quality would sell for $20-$30 a bottle.”

Since that time there have been quite a few value selections from old-vine Grenache plantings in Spain that have created their own followings in this marketplace like Borsao, their ‘upper cuvee’ Tres Picos, and Las Rocas de San Alejandro Garnacha Viñas Viejas. New ones are coming along all the time to the point where we haven’t talked about one of the originals, Nekeas El Chaparral de Vega Sindoa Grenache Old Vines 2018, in quite a while, though we have carried many vintages along the way.

This version allows us to talk about it once again. In truth, if you don’t, people forget about it. So do we for that matter, as it is very easy to get caught up with the new and different and not spend a lot of effort on solid brands that have performed admirably for years. Wines like this have value in any market and there are likely a lot of new buyers that have come along since the days we were talking about this wine a lot looking for a good value on a versatile red.

Bodegas Nekeas is located in the high country of Navarra, northeast of Rioja, and the vines that supply the grapes for this wine were planted between 1890 and 1960. That’s old, and incumbent with using grapes from such elderly vines is the naturally low yields and concentration that comes from that growing scenario as well as the depth of flavor that can’t be created by any other means than deep-rooted, old vines.

These are hillside vineyards composed of sandstone and calcerous marl with a long vegetative cycle, warm summers and a great shift between daytime and nighttime temperatures that preserve the wine’s bright acidity. They practically make themselves in that very little needs to be done when the grapes are harvested. It’s a unique situation that exists in this part of the world that allows wines like this to be sold for under $15.

The ‘stats’ are particularly impressive for this edition of El Chaparral which made it a perfect time to mention it again. The lead piece is from Josh Raynolds of Vinous who wrote, “Deep garnet. Mineral-tinged cherry, raspberry, vanilla and exotic spice aromas show excellent clarity and take on a smoky nuance with air. Appealingly sweet and expansive on the palate, offering juicy red fruit, rose pastille and spicecake flavors energized by a minerally topnote. Shows impressive energy and florality on the persistent finish, which is given shape by polished, even tannins…92 points.”

Throw in support reviews from Jeb Dunnuck (90 points) and James Suckling (92 points) and a $13.98 price point and you have a very viable value choice for those everyday occasions where you want something tasty, interesting, and not too expensive that will go with all manner of foods. That, for a lot of people, is most days.

SIERRA CANTABRIA GRAN RESERVA OTRA VEZ

Yeah, we ran this as an email a while back. Sold a bit of it, too. But, being honest, we were a little disappointed in the response. We aren’t usually ones to repeat ourselves but, in this case, we wonder if we didn’t quite convey our enthusiasm well enough. Or was it the day we chose to run it, on a low-key Sunday as opposed to one of our typical weekday slots? Was the one number we posted, all there was at the time, not big enough? Not sure what it was but clearly the message didn’t resonate the way we expected.

This is a special wine, from an exceptional vintage, made by a trusted house, that delivered high quality with over a decade of bottle age for less than you’d pay for a middling, new release Napa Cabernet. It’s fabulous with steak but far more versatile than most other red wine choices with a wide range of foods. We literally drink this about once a week at my house and just wanted to make doubly sure everyone saw the message. That’s all we can do so here’s the piece again.

“We have been fans of Sierra Cantabria at many levels for a couple of decades. We almost feel a familial connection with a couple of Rioja producers (Sierra Cantabria, Muga, La Rioja Alta, and Lopez de Heredia) as we have met the owners, visited the wineries, and sold their wines consistently for a long time. Even though there are no ‘automatics’ here, and we seriously look hard at every new vintage from these vaunted producers, it is almost inconceivable that we wouldn’t have something on the floor from each of them. They are staples for the genre.

“Within that context, you have your high points, and today’s offer is one of those. We were huge fans of the delicious Sierra Cantabria Rioja Gran Reserva 2009, one of the uncanny successes from this warm, successful-but-not-‘epic’ vintage. This time we are talking about the 2010 edition, from a vintage that has been acclaimed as one of the ‘best ever’ from a fairly broad historical perspective. We have been waiting for months for this to arrive, the process bogged down not only by the usual pandemic-tariff-shipping scenario that has had an impact on everything, but an additional delay thanks to the importer changing horses and the ‘new guy’ getting their system in order.

“As to the vintage, we’ll put it simply…on the Wine Advocate vintage chart 2010 was the highest rated vintage along with 2016 and 2004, and a point higher than 2001. In other words, pretty rare company as vintages go. The story here is that the Sierra Cantabria Rioja Gran Reserva 2010 is a traditional blend of 98% Tempranillo and 2% Graciano from vines planted between 1950 and 1970. Those vineyards employ ‘practicing organic,’ dry-farmed viticulture with certain selective biodynamic practices.

“The grapes undergo rigorous double-manual sorting, both before and after destemming then temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel followed by malolactic fermentation in barrel. The wine then spends 26 months in American oak barrels as is tradition for ‘gran reservas’, 25% new.

“So how does this differ from the 2009? More nuance, more elegance, more complexity. The nose starts with the same kind of billowing dark fruits, but there is more focus and definition, and an even greater sense of purity. Black fruits, damp earth, savory spice and notes of cocoa, it’s a complex mélange of scents. The same flavors are the central theme on the palate with a supple core of fruit as the focus. Brightness to the flavors, tender edges, and more evident layers across the palate, this is a very complete and complex version of this wine that is a notch or two higher qualitatively than anything we have tasted previously. Given this series, that’s saying something.

Not all of the critics have weighed in on this one as yet, but the early reviews are impressive, particularly for a wine with this kind of elegant profile. Wine Specator’s take was, “An edge of tar and smoke lines the cherry, clove and herb flavors in this complex red, which is focused and balanced. Mineral elements and woodsy notes combine on the long finish. Drink now through 2032… 93 points.”

“Vinous’s Josh Raynolds wrote, “Bright ruby-red. Highly perfumed red fruit, floral and spice aromas are complemented by subtle vanilla and coconut accents. Smooth, focused and gently sweet, offering raspberry, cherry-vanilla and candied rose flavors and an earthier hint of tobacco. Fine-grained tannins lend shape to a long, energetic finish that strongly repeats the red fruit note. Raised in a 50/50 mix of French and American oak barrels, 25% of them new… 93 points.”

We suspect other critics will be along with big numbers in time, but this little jewel might not be around by then. A lovely, layered, complex Rioja that expresses the kind depth that only a truly great vintage can deliver, the Sierra Cantabria Gran Reserva 2010 is the complete package. With a little air, it’s sensational now, and will easily perform for another decade or two. Here is a gorgeous, top-notch reserve level wine, with a decade of bottle age, for under $40. Nowhere else but Spain does this.

NEW FACE ON AN OLD STANDARD

This isn’t a story we have told very often. There are a lot of variables. First, this estate in Cigales is owned by Rioja luminary Baron de Ley. Second, what’s Cigales? Cigales is a small DO in the western part of the broader Castillo y Leon region in western Spain. The grape varieties are mainly Tempranillo and Grenache for reds though international varieties like Syrah, Cabernet and Merlot are permitted. As to Finca Museum itself, it seems their goal is to raise the level of the appellation. You may have seen the label as we have sold it on occasion over the years. It was a unique etched metal on a tall bottle.

We aren’t going to tell you the history is necessarily compelling. The Reserve bottling, which we are offering here, is often on the rustic side, which is a recurring theme in the region probably more as a function of the producers there than the area itself. So these wines are hit and miss from a qualitative standpoint, and Museum typically sells in the mid-$30s as well, which means we seldom have cause to make a case for them. We have sold their wines on only a few occasions over the years, and this is the first time at this location. But that’s why we taste everything. This wine, in this vintage, at this price, made a heck of a lot of sense.

The Finca Museum Reserve Cigales 2016 is made with the kind of attention to detail that producers with high expectations have. The grapes, 100% Tempranillo in this case, are harvested by hand into small crates, fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel, and the juice spend 22 months in new French oak with frequent rackings. Then there is an additional 15 months in bottle before being labeled and released.

As we have said on many occasions, the 2016 vintage is special in many parts of Spain. Here it made the difference between a wine that had some overt rusticity in the past and one that has the stuffing to go along with its underlying muscle. There’s plenty of dark red fruit going on here, and the fruit weight to polish over the ripe tannins. There’s some notes of mineral, earth, and dark chocolate to add interest along the way, and the kind of continuity across the palate that this wine rarely has.

We also think this kinder, gentler version has enough size to appeal to New World palates as well as Old World. Take all of that, and factor in a nearly half-price buy-in (we’re selling it for $19.98), and the whole proposition changes. This ‘new look’ Museum is worthy of attention and delivers great value as well.

ARTADI: A BLUE CHIP VALUE AS ALWAYS

This is a simple acknowledgment of a new rendition of one of our old standards in the Spanish section, Artadi’s Vina de Gain 2018. First of all, just to get it out of the way, this is technically a Rioja. Artadi has chosen not to use the name with regard to their wines because they feel the term is too generic. You won’t see the word ‘Rioja’ on their labels. They, like many other wine regions, are on about more specificity regarding where the wines come from. The term Rioja covers a broad area that includes three subsets (Rioja Baja, Rioja Alta, and Rioja Alavesa). Just saying Rioja says it comes from anywhere in the region. Artadi would rather make reference to the more delineated village of Laguardia (within Rioja Alavesa) where their parcels are located.

An excerpt from Wine Spectator stated, “Over the years, the bodega (Artadi) has focused more on origin (bottling a number of single-vineyard wines, including its flagship El Pison) than on the Rioja designations of Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva, which set minimum aging requirements. As a consequence of its decision, Artadi will no longer display the Rioja appellation on its labels.” The winery stated, “We would like to highlight that there is no change in our project…. We will keep betting on the land and the vineyard as the main sources of value for our wines.”

These folks aren’t rebels, just purists. This is 100% Tempranillo grown in several plots around Laguardia and fermented in open-top wooden vats, finishing with 12 months in standard small oak barrels. Packed with dark red fruits, spice and earthy underpinnings, the texture is supple but there is plenty of verve and freshness to the overall impression. What’s in a name, anyway? It certainly doesn’t affect the soulful, classy juice in the bottle and the ‘entry level’ Artadi Vinas de Gain 2018 is another value winner.

Wine Advocate’s Luis Gutierrez even gives it a nod over the striking 2016, “The young red 2018 Viñas de Gaín follows the same philosophy as the white, grapes from a variety of vineyards in Laguardia and Elvillar ferment in oak and stainless steel vats followed by malolactic in barrel and an élevage in oak of nine months. It showcases the serious and fresh style of the best wines from the year. It has cold fruit and a very fine thread in the palate, fine tannins, long and balanced, very fresh. It has depth and complexity. A very good wine, it transcends its price point, like an upgraded version of the 2016…93 points.”

Though more succinct, James Suckling was also on board, “Very pure fruit to this with blackberries and blueberries and some dried flowers. Medium-bodied with very fine tannins and a linear, refined finish. From organically grown grapes…94 points.” Spain does it again, but that should be no surprise by now.

TOUGH NAME, STUNNING RIOJA

We’ll get the name, which will be a stumbling block for some, out of the way first. The property is called Castillo de Cuzcurrita (Cuzcurrita Castle), and the wine itself, the premium bottling from this estate, is Senorio de Cuzcurrita. Located half an hour west of Haro, Rioja’s ‘holy city’, is a castle with a history dating back to the 14th Century. We love getting into historical stuff but there isn’t space this time around (the owner is completely renovating the property to preserve the unique architecture). The castle has seen many owners over its life time but the current owner, whose name was never mentioned anywhere that we read, purchased the property in 1999.

Within the courtyard of this castle is an enclosed vineyard containing vines up to 80-years-of-age which was the inspiration for this wine. Winemaker Ana Martin, who has a reputation in Spain but has few wines in this market, was hired to make magic here. The owner underwrote a modern gravity flow winery for the property, no small task given the terrain, and the first vintage was a 1999. The proprietor was so pleased with it he decided to sell it commercially the following year.

There’s a lot of info to digest but we’ll try and keep it tight. Located in the hamlet of Cuzcurrita del Rio Tiron, at 600 meters above sea level, in Rioja Alta, this is the coolest and highest microclimate within the DO. The walled vineyard is the heart of this cuvee and the rest of the grapes come from long term contracts from bush pruned vines averaging 30 years of age, the farming is predominantly organic, and the grapes (100% Tempranillo) are harvested by hand into small crates to protect the grapes from bruising or breaking.

The wines are fermented in stainless steel with malolactic occurring in barrel then the juice sees 12 months in new, second and third year, French-oak
Bordeaux-style casks with a fine wood grain and medium toast followed by 5
months in 20,000-litre concrete vats for blending the wine before bottling. This wine, from the extraordinary 2016 vintage, was bottled in April, 2018 with no stabilization or filtration. Minimal intervention to be sure, and what a result.

As one piece we read about Ana Martin offered, “This is not a powerhouse wine, but a refined Tempranillo, with breeding and style that suit its castle upbringing.” Lovely black-cherry color, with an intense, complex nose with
aromas of dark fruits like ripe black plums, blueberries and blackcurrants, with some spice, balsamic nuances, cedar wood and anise coming through. Smooth, juicy mouth-feel with soft, enveloping tannins. Complex, well-balanced and elegant with a long, gentle finish and haunting aromatics.

We don’t know a lot about Ana, but this is one whale of a wine…silky, layered, tender, sleek, oozing with class. The traditional trappings of Reserva and Gran Reserva have no relevance here as this is a wine with more of an eye to a great Margaux for its inspiration. We had nothing quite like this, nor have we tasted anything quite as polished and engaging from this part of the world.

PICARO RIBERA DEL DUERO VINES VIEJAS 2018

One thinks typically of the Ribera del Duero as a more ‘serious’, what with the neighborhood harboring such heavyweights as Vega Sicilia, Hacienda del Monasterio, Pingus, and Pesquera. The term ‘Picaro’, the brainchild of Dominio di Aguila, refers to someone who is a rascal, or a rogue. The question posed by Picaro is, can a Ribera be, well, fun? While they are clearly deadly serious about their winemaking, they seem to be able to be a lot more light-hearted with their winery persona.

Picaro definitely operates ‘outside the box’ for an area like the Ribera. Sure you’ve got your Tempranillo here, the backbone grape of the region, and the specific clone that the region hangs it hat on. But here it is co-fermented with an unusual mixture of Garnacha, Bobal (a grape we associate with climes further south), and Albillo (the rare, indigenous white of the Ribera). So what do you get? Well, let’s call it a rogue within the typical confines of the region, but more accurately it is Ribera with its ‘party hat’ on yet with the complexity and dimension to be taken seriously alongside the icons of the region.

There’s plenty of richness here, but there is also a lift to the flavors that is unlike anything else we have tasted from the Ribera, as well as a certain ‘old school’ demeanor that speaks more of Rioja than the Ribera. Gushing berry and cassis flavors steal the show, but there are also streaks that are like a marinated black cherry, some (Rioja-like) dusty spice, and refined tannins to let you know that this is no ordinary Ribera.

The vine age here is somewhere north of 50-years-old, and the property is farmed organically/biodynamically, with grapes trodden by foot before being put in French oak for malo-lactic fermentation and a sojourn of 12-20 months in wood. The vineyards here are north-facing, which give the wine a little cooler profile to begin with. It all sounds formal enough yet the wine’s wild fruit notes, more lifted personality, and outgoing spiciness can only be described as…fun. Sure there are structural things that you can point to with wine aficionados that will present the appropriate level of gravitas. But you could just haul off and drink this with reckless abandon (responsibly of course) in a way that would seem inappropriate with most, admittedly more ‘modern’ Riberas.

Jorge Monzon and Elizabeth Rodero founded the winery only in 2010 after Jorge spent years selling his produce to ‘several high profile neighbors’. The winemaking is pretty serious here as well and they have definitely separated themselves from the pack in a very good way. We can only marvel at their successful new approach and how Aguila takes such a stylistic diversion and makes you wonder why more people haven’t done it in this way.

We aren’t the only fans either. Their stock has gone up with Wine Advocate’s Luis Gutierrez who wrote, “I tasted two vintages of the entry-level red, of which the young 2018 Pícaro del Águila Tinto had just been bottled and should be released soon. This is their most approachable red, and it has the depth, concentration and nuance of the best wines from many wineries. It’s produced in a more jovial style, but the wine comes from old vines that always have a field blend with small percentages of whatever grapes that are all fermented together, and these vines always produce a serious and deep wine. In 2018, it matured in French oak barrels for 11 months. This is very young and tender, expressive and aromatic, very much in line with the 2016. It has lots of energy and power, more than you might think, and it’s serious. It’s drinkable now, but it should get even better with some time in bottle….94 points.”

‘Aguila’ is Spanish for ‘eagle’, and this eagle is flying high, if maybe a little bit outside the typical stylistic boundaries of typical Riberas. But this is a bold, exciting twist and a welcome addition to the genre as Jorge Monzon is a breed apart from ‘typical’. A rogue? Yeah, maybe. Delicious? Absolutely.

UN CONTINO MUY ESPECIAL

As you surely know if you have been seeing our offers for any length of time, we have been fans of the talented folks at CVNE for a long time. But among their three separate, high performance wineries, Contino holds a special place for us. Back in the early 90s, before the coming of the ‘Spanish invasion’ lead by Jorge Ordonez and Eric Solomon, there were two wineries that kind of opened our eyes to the world of Spanish wines in general. One of them was Contino (the other was Mauro for reference sake). We have plying the varied wares from CVNE (Compañía Vinícola del Norte del España, aka Cune) under their Contino, Vina Real and Imperial labels, ever since.

That means there is almost always something exciting from them coming down the pipe under one of those three labels, all of which are run as separate wineries. Among them Contino has a somewhat unique position. The Cune people refer to Contino as the ‘first chateau in Rioja’, a reference to the comparison between this property and the typical profile of a Bordeaux chateau. The estate is formed by 62 hectares of vineyard in Rioja Alavesa, considered the best of the three regional designations in Rioja (Baja, Alta, and Alavesa). Contino, as it exists today was founded in 1973.

The history of the property itself dates from the 16th century, and that history is reflected in its name. The “contino” was the officer in charge of the guard corps of a hundred soldiers who protected the royal family “de contino” (continuously) from the times of the Catholic Monarchs onwards.

A single vineyard wine is still a pretty rare thing in Rioja, though that is changing somewhat with a surge of winemakers passionate about establishing more specific ‘village’ and ‘pago’ (vineyard) identities. We have done a number of offers on Contino over the years, our last missive on the Rioja Reserva 2014. When we wrote that piece, we closed with saying we got the deal on the 2014 “probably because the purveyor was itching to get their hands on the highly publicized 2015 and 2016 vintage.” Now we can see why. The 2015 is muy, muy bueno!

It has the same style points as the previous classics, but has more volume, richness, and outgoing fruit. The color is a deep, vibrant maroon, and the nose gives the immediate impression of ripe cassis and black cherry.

In the mouth there is simply ‘more’. The fruit is lush and vibrant, the acidity is refined and well tucked away, and its is loaded with engaging ripe flavors. Like a Bordeaux, this Contino Rioja Reserva 2015 exudes elegance, yet in this vintage there is an increased level of juiciness. It differs from other great vintages in that it is, flat out, flashier from start to finish.

Early ‘reports’ are impressive. From Wine Advocate’s Luis Gutierrez, “…a blend…t hat wants to express the character of the Contino estate…It feels fresher than the 2014, and it also shows younger, with better integrated oak, subtle aromas and nice balance. It’s medium-bodied, with very fine tannins and good freshness, integrated and balanced. I look forward to tasting the 2016 of this wine, because this 2015 is going in a direction that I like…94 points.”

James Suckling was gushing in this review from 2018, “This shows so much intense dark berry such as blueberries and blackberries with hints of flowers. Lavender too. Full body, dense tannins with freshness and intensity. So tight and focused. A classic Rioja. Need five to six years of bottle age to come around. Try in 2024… 96 points.”

You can wait if you want to, but we have enjoyed a few bottles already with relish thanks to that outgoing fruit component. Either way, this is a real winner from a source with a great track record.

GREAT NEW JUICE FROM SIERRA CANTABIA

It’s a family affair in a way. We have been fans of Sierra Cantabria at many levels for a couple of decades. We almost feel a familial connection with a couple of Rioja producers (Sierra Cantabria, Muga, La Rioja Alta, and Lopez de Heredia). We have met the owners, visited the wineries, and sold their wines consistently for a long time. Even though there are no ‘automatics’ at Winex, and we look hard at every new vintage of everything, it is almost inconceivable that we wouldn’t have something on the floor from each of these producers.

Sierra Cantabria just recently rolled out an impressive ‘triple play’. The lineup is distinctive, with stylistic variety based on different philosophies for each wine and sourcing from three different vintages. We have already done an email in the two sensational Gran Reserva efforts, Sierra Cantabria Rioja Gran Reserva 2009 and the Egurens’ single vineyard estate El Puntido Rioja Gran Reserva 2007. The reviews are sensational, the styles distinctive, and we advise you to check this pair of classics out if you didn’t see that offer.

Since we almost never put more than two items in an email these days, we did not include this one in that offer. But the Sierra Cantabria Rioja Reserva Unica 2016 is another really impressive effort that certainly should not be overlooked. We just finished up the last bottle of the 2009, and it was smoking! This 2016 comes from a great vintage and is perhaps finer tuned and more seamless than that ’09 from a warmer vintage.

This series has been around since at least 2008 and, while it is done in the traditional manner (as you’ll see in Jeb Dunnuck’s notes below), this definitely sports a fresher, more modern bent to the fruit and comes off a bit more modern. Lots of dark cherry and red plum fruit with a subtle underpinning of earthy minerality and baking spice. Appealing and pretty user friendly out of the gate, as that 2009 demonstrated, it will age nicely if that is the call.

From Jeb Dunnuck, “The 2016 Reserva Unica comes from a single vineyard located in the alluvial soils beside the Ebro river. Made from 97% Tempranillo and 3% Graciano that was all destemmed and aged 24 months in 30% new French and America oak, this deep, concentrated 2016 packs some serious muscle in its blackcurrants, black cherry, licorice, toasted spice, and dried earth-like aromas and flavors. Medium to full-bodied, with a dense, concentrated mid-palate and ripe tannins, give bottles a few years in a cold cellar and enjoy over the following 10-15 years…94 points.”

A great choice at a modest $24.98, it’s a sensational value for a quality red.

SPECIAL OFFER ON A CLASSIC ‘ESTATE’ RIOJA

As you surely know if you have been seeing our offers for any length of time, we have been fans of the talented folks at CVNE. But among their three separate, high performance wineries, Contino holds a special place for us. Back in the early 90s, before the coming of the ‘Spanish invasion’ lead by Jorge Ordonez and Eric Solomon, there were two wineries that kind of opened our eyes to the world of Spanish wines in general. One of them was Contino (the other was Mauro for reference sake). We have plying the varied wares from CVNE (Compañía Vinícola del Norte del España, aka Cune) under their Contino, Vina Real and Imperial labels, ever since.

That means there is almost always something exciting from them coming under one of those three labels, all of which are run as separate wineries. Among them Contino has a somewhat unique position. The Cune people refer to Contino as the ‘first chateau in Rioja’, a reference to the comparison between this property and the typical profile of a Bordeaux chateau. The estate is formed by 62 hectares of vineyard in Rioja Alavesa, considered the best of the three regional designations in Rioja (Baja, Alta, and Alavesa). Contino, as it exists today was founded in 1973. The history of the property itself dates from the 16th century, and that history is reflected in its name. The “contino” was the officer in charge of the guard corps of a hundred soldiers who protected the royal family “de contino” (continuously) from the times of the Catholic Monarchs onwards.

A single vineyard wine is still a pretty rare thing in Rioja, though that is changing somewhat with a surge of winemakers passionate about establishing more specific ‘village’ and ‘pago’ (vineyard) identities. We have done a number of offers on Contino over the years, our last missive on the Rioja Gran Reserva 2012. This time around where highlighting the Contino Reserva 2014 for a couple of reasons. One, of course, is that it is really good again (no surprise). The other that we can offer an even better price ($10 less!) than we offered the 2009 and 2010 Reservas a while back.

This Reserva is made up of 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, and 5% a combination of Mazuelo y Garnacha. The wine is made in the traditional manner and placed in barrels already used oak (40% American and 60% French) where it remained for two years plus the additional minimum of two more years in bottle aging in the cellars until it is released to the market. Bright red and black fruits, spice and earth nuances, a cool feel to the flavors, it is long, well woven, and refined. While the vintage itself is not as heralded as, say, 2001 or 2010, these folks did a fabulous job and kept it true to the style of the house. Terroir does matter, too, and while some Riojanos got some rain in 2014, it was dry in this unique microclimate and healthy grapes were harvested without issues .

Like a Bordeaux, this wine exudes elegance. Unlike a Bordeaux chateau, this ‘current release’ already has bottle age, though it will live a couple of decades more should that be one’s wish. The 2014 also has the usual battery of reviews including 92s from Wine Advocate, Vinous Media, and Wine Enthusiast, 90 from Wine Spectator and Decanter, 93 from Spanish publication Peñan Guide and a substantial ‘95’ from British reviewer Tim Atkins. If everybody likes it, that is the greatest testament. We liked it a lot ourselves for its classic elegance and lovely integration.

As for words, Vinous Media Spanish reviewer Josh Raynolds made the point, “Deep brilliant ruby. Smoke-accented cherry, black raspberry, mocha and licorice scents are energized by suggestions of candied rose and cracked pepper. Sweet and concentrated on the palate, offering smoky, intense red and dark berry flavors that slowly become more lively with air. Smoothly blends power and energy and finishes very long and spicy, with rounded tannins and lingering florality.”

The best part is, probably because they are itching to get their hands on the highly publicized 2015 and 2016 vintages, the purveyor gave us a ‘clear the decks’ price of $29.98 (list is $51) for the Contino Rioja Reserva 2014 provided we keep it on the ‘down low’. The price will appear at checkout. Good hunting, quantities are limited.

ULTIMATE ‘INSIDER’ RIOJA FROM LA RIOJA ALTA

We see ‘wine clubs’ operating in California all the time. The direct-to-consumer programs are the life blood of a number of domestic producers. But wine selling in Europe seems to generally work rather differently. In most top chateaux in Bordeaux, for example, there are no gifts shops or trinkets, and you can’t even buy a bottle of wine. So the idea of direct-to-consumer/wine club type programs doesn’t even cross our minds when we’re over the ‘pond’. That’s why when Kyle saw a bunch of wines displayed at one of our favorite Spanish wineries, La Rioja Alta, that he had never seen before, he posed a question.

“What are these?” he asked. The Bodega answered that these wines, designated Reserva Club de Cosecheros (loosely translated ‘vintage reserve club’), were specially selected barrels for wine club members of the bodega that committed to about a half barrel per year (roughly twelve cases) and received a yearly allocation of the wines. The wines were not available for sale in any other fashion, but the seed was planted. If these were specially selected for ‘members only’ from one of our long-time favorite Spanish bodegas, what’s the downside? Answer, there isn’t one.

That impression was pretty much burned into the memory banks and the search was on. Recently, one of our purveyors, the one who has been the source of the lion’s share of the great old Riojas we have been proffering over the last six or seven years, presented us with a list that included several bottlings of Reserva Club de Cosecheros. We bought every bottle they had of the six best vintages without hesitation. We opened a bottle of each literally right offf the truck. It was Kyle’s gift to himself for his 50^th birthday and the tasting was fascinating for Rioja-heads like us.

It was a memorable showing of classic Spanish Rioja, with the general style falling somewhere between Las Rioja Alta’s refined, lifted Vina Ardanza and the more fruit forward, though still unmistakably Rioja ‘904’ Gran Reserva. Tasting them side-by-side, it was a fantastic demonstration of the differences between these outstanding vintages, with the youngest (the 2004) starting to really open up and the oldest (the 1989) showing some resolved tannins and more tender edges but still with, as Clive Coates used to say, ‘bags of life’ left at 30 years of age. Sadly, the 1994 was a solo bottle but we’ve got reasonable quantities of the other (3 to 5 cases each).

Don’t bother looking for scores. The press doesn’t see these, and what would be the point anyway since they are only for club members. These likely came from restaurant ‘members’ or private collections in Spain. In fact, almost no one sees these outside of the winery and their club. We’re pretty confident in saying that these are probably the only bottles in the country. If you are a Rioja lover, these are a must…classic old school elegance, bright fruit, ageless demeanors. These are special, insider wines.

We’re not the least bit pressed to sell them but feel obligated to give the folks who support our expansive Spanish program a chance at something you don’t see every day, or in this case ever. We’d suggest nibbling on a variety of vintages instead of focusing on just one as we think that will provide the most fulfilling experience. In any case, give these a serious look soon. Prices range from $69.98-79.98, certainly great prices for one-of-a-kind reservas with this kind of bottle age. Since we have never sold them before, we have no idea how long they might be around. Then again, we might come to our senses and decide to keep them. Salud.

La Rioja Alta Rioja Reserva Club de Cosecheros 2004

La Rioja Alta Rioja Reserva Club de Cosecheros 2001

La Rioja Alta Rioja Reserva Club de Cosecheros 1995

La Rioja Alta Rioja Reserva Club de Cosecheros 1991

La Rioja Alta Rioja Reserva Club de Cosecheros 1989