This is a simple acknowledgment of a new rendition of one of our old standards in the Spanish section, Artadi’s Vina de Gain 2018. First of all, just to get it out of the way, this is technically a Rioja. Artadi has chosen not to use the name with regard to their wines because they feel the term is too generic. You won’t see the word ‘Rioja’ on their labels. They, like many other wine regions, are on about more specificity regarding where the wines come from. The term Rioja covers a broad area that includes three subsets (Rioja Baja, Rioja Alta, and Rioja Alavesa). Just saying Rioja says it comes from anywhere in the region. Artadi would rather make reference to the more delineated village of Laguardia (within Rioja Alavesa) where their parcels are located.
An excerpt from Wine Spectator stated, “Over the years, the bodega (Artadi) has focused more on origin (bottling a number of single-vineyard wines, including its flagship El Pison) than on the Rioja designations of Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva, which set minimum aging requirements. As a consequence of its decision, Artadi will no longer display the Rioja appellation on its labels.” The winery stated, “We would like to highlight that there is no change in our project…. We will keep betting on the land and the vineyard as the main sources of value for our wines.”
These folks aren’t rebels, just purists. This is 100% Tempranillo grown in several plots around Laguardia and fermented in open-top wooden vats, finishing with 12 months in standard small oak barrels. Packed with dark red fruits, spice and earthy underpinnings, the texture is supple but there is plenty of verve and freshness to the overall impression. What’s in a name, anyway? It certainly doesn’t affect the soulful, classy juice in the bottle and the ‘entry level’ Artadi Vinas de Gain 2018 is another value winner.
Wine Advocate’s Luis Gutierrez even gives it a nod over the striking 2016, “The young red 2018 Viñas de Gaín follows the same philosophy as the white, grapes from a variety of vineyards in Laguardia and Elvillar ferment in oak and stainless steel vats followed by malolactic in barrel and an élevage in oak of nine months. It showcases the serious and fresh style of the best wines from the year. It has cold fruit and a very fine thread in the palate, fine tannins, long and balanced, very fresh. It has depth and complexity. A very good wine, it transcends its price point, like an upgraded version of the 2016…93 points.”
Though more succinct, James Suckling was also on board, “Very pure fruit to this with blackberries and blueberries and some dried flowers. Medium-bodied with very fine tannins and a linear, refined finish. From organically grown grapes…94 points.” Spain does it again, but that should be no surprise by now.