This isn’t a story we have told very often. There are a lot of variables. First, this estate in Cigales is owned by Rioja luminary Baron de Ley. Second, what’s Cigales? Cigales is a small DO in the western part of the broader Castillo y Leon region in western Spain. The grape varieties are mainly Tempranillo and Grenache for reds though international varieties like Syrah, Cabernet and Merlot are permitted. As to Finca Museum itself, it seems their goal is to raise the level of the appellation. You may have seen the label as we have sold it on occasion over the years. It was a unique etched metal on a tall bottle.
We aren’t going to tell you the history is necessarily compelling. The Reserve bottling, which we are offering here, is often on the rustic side, which is a recurring theme in the region probably more as a function of the producers there than the area itself. So these wines are hit and miss from a qualitative standpoint, and Museum typically sells in the mid-$30s as well, which means we seldom have cause to make a case for them. We have sold their wines on only a few occasions over the years, and this is the first time at this location. But that’s why we taste everything. This wine, in this vintage, at this price, made a heck of a lot of sense.
The Finca Museum Reserve Cigales 2016 is made with the kind of attention to detail that producers with high expectations have. The grapes, 100% Tempranillo in this case, are harvested by hand into small crates, fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel, and the juice spend 22 months in new French oak with frequent rackings. Then there is an additional 15 months in bottle before being labeled and released.
As we have said on many occasions, the 2016 vintage is special in many parts of Spain. Here it made the difference between a wine that had some overt rusticity in the past and one that has the stuffing to go along with its underlying muscle. There’s plenty of dark red fruit going on here, and the fruit weight to polish over the ripe tannins. There’s some notes of mineral, earth, and dark chocolate to add interest along the way, and the kind of continuity across the palate that this wine rarely has.
We also think this kinder, gentler version has enough size to appeal to New World palates as well as Old World. Take all of that, and factor in a nearly half-price buy-in (we’re selling it for $19.98), and the whole proposition changes. This ‘new look’ Museum is worthy of attention and delivers great value as well.