2010

SIERRA CANTABRIA GRAN RESERVA OTRA VEZ

Yeah, we ran this as an email a while back. Sold a bit of it, too. But, being honest, we were a little disappointed in the response. We aren’t usually ones to repeat ourselves but, in this case, we wonder if we didn’t quite convey our enthusiasm well enough. Or was it the day we chose to run it, on a low-key Sunday as opposed to one of our typical weekday slots? Was the one number we posted, all there was at the time, not big enough? Not sure what it was but clearly the message didn’t resonate the way we expected.

This is a special wine, from an exceptional vintage, made by a trusted house, that delivered high quality with over a decade of bottle age for less than you’d pay for a middling, new release Napa Cabernet. It’s fabulous with steak but far more versatile than most other red wine choices with a wide range of foods. We literally drink this about once a week at my house and just wanted to make doubly sure everyone saw the message. That’s all we can do so here’s the piece again.

“We have been fans of Sierra Cantabria at many levels for a couple of decades. We almost feel a familial connection with a couple of Rioja producers (Sierra Cantabria, Muga, La Rioja Alta, and Lopez de Heredia) as we have met the owners, visited the wineries, and sold their wines consistently for a long time. Even though there are no ‘automatics’ here, and we seriously look hard at every new vintage from these vaunted producers, it is almost inconceivable that we wouldn’t have something on the floor from each of them. They are staples for the genre.

“Within that context, you have your high points, and today’s offer is one of those. We were huge fans of the delicious Sierra Cantabria Rioja Gran Reserva 2009, one of the uncanny successes from this warm, successful-but-not-‘epic’ vintage. This time we are talking about the 2010 edition, from a vintage that has been acclaimed as one of the ‘best ever’ from a fairly broad historical perspective. We have been waiting for months for this to arrive, the process bogged down not only by the usual pandemic-tariff-shipping scenario that has had an impact on everything, but an additional delay thanks to the importer changing horses and the ‘new guy’ getting their system in order.

“As to the vintage, we’ll put it simply…on the Wine Advocate vintage chart 2010 was the highest rated vintage along with 2016 and 2004, and a point higher than 2001. In other words, pretty rare company as vintages go. The story here is that the Sierra Cantabria Rioja Gran Reserva 2010 is a traditional blend of 98% Tempranillo and 2% Graciano from vines planted between 1950 and 1970. Those vineyards employ ‘practicing organic,’ dry-farmed viticulture with certain selective biodynamic practices.

“The grapes undergo rigorous double-manual sorting, both before and after destemming then temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel followed by malolactic fermentation in barrel. The wine then spends 26 months in American oak barrels as is tradition for ‘gran reservas’, 25% new.

“So how does this differ from the 2009? More nuance, more elegance, more complexity. The nose starts with the same kind of billowing dark fruits, but there is more focus and definition, and an even greater sense of purity. Black fruits, damp earth, savory spice and notes of cocoa, it’s a complex mélange of scents. The same flavors are the central theme on the palate with a supple core of fruit as the focus. Brightness to the flavors, tender edges, and more evident layers across the palate, this is a very complete and complex version of this wine that is a notch or two higher qualitatively than anything we have tasted previously. Given this series, that’s saying something.

Not all of the critics have weighed in on this one as yet, but the early reviews are impressive, particularly for a wine with this kind of elegant profile. Wine Specator’s take was, “An edge of tar and smoke lines the cherry, clove and herb flavors in this complex red, which is focused and balanced. Mineral elements and woodsy notes combine on the long finish. Drink now through 2032… 93 points.”

“Vinous’s Josh Raynolds wrote, “Bright ruby-red. Highly perfumed red fruit, floral and spice aromas are complemented by subtle vanilla and coconut accents. Smooth, focused and gently sweet, offering raspberry, cherry-vanilla and candied rose flavors and an earthier hint of tobacco. Fine-grained tannins lend shape to a long, energetic finish that strongly repeats the red fruit note. Raised in a 50/50 mix of French and American oak barrels, 25% of them new… 93 points.”

We suspect other critics will be along with big numbers in time, but this little jewel might not be around by then. A lovely, layered, complex Rioja that expresses the kind depth that only a truly great vintage can deliver, the Sierra Cantabria Gran Reserva 2010 is the complete package. With a little air, it’s sensational now, and will easily perform for another decade or two. Here is a gorgeous, top-notch reserve level wine, with a decade of bottle age, for under $40. Nowhere else but Spain does this.

A CUBILLO FOR THE AGES

What a difference a year makes! As the majority of you who read us regularly are aware, there are likely no greater fans of Rioja, with the possible exception of some of the Riojanos themselves, than we are. One of the rewards of doing this kind of thing, for us, is to get paid for doing something we would do anyway. Today’s exercise gives us the opportunity to talk about a few of our favorite things, specifically one of the revered houses located in Rioja’s ‘holy city’ (Haro), Lopez de Heredia, and one of the greatest vintages we have had the good fortune to experience from the region, 2010.

As to Lopez de Heredia, there is little we need to say about this icon of traditional Spanish winemaking founded in 1892. We have tasted virtually every level of wine they produce, including some historic older bottlings, and have never been disappointed even given pretty high expectations. They do all the right things to create the wines they want to make and charge very attractive prices for the various levels offered. Granted prices have edged up a bit as the world continues to discover the wonders of Rioja, but they are still pretty sensational given the other choices of equal caliber.

As to 2010, it has been a while since we have talked about the vintage. It is a sensational harvest with purity of fruit, ripe tannins, classic lines and fine structure. They are wines that will age decades yet can deliver a glassful of joy next weekend. The Riojanos have definitely been surprisingly low-keyed about the exceptional year, but the rest of the wine world has been unanimous in its praise.

Simply put, releases in Rioja come sort of in waves. For the most part crianzas come out first, followed by reservas and finally gran reservas, all titles very specifically defined by Spanish law based on barrel age and time in bottle. Each winery has their own schedule as to how the wines roll out, though they mostly follow the same level by level pattern we described. Most of the 2010 crianzas and reservas are long gone and we have even moved through a number of the gran reservas. But the top older houses run on a much slower cycle. So we will be seeing a number of the ‘big dogs’ from this great vintage coming out over the next several months. Hallelujah!

As for Lopez de Heredia, they are just beginning on their efforts in 2010 starting with the Lopez de Heredia Rioja Vina Cubillo Crianza 2010, their entry-level bottling. This is where we must make the point again, one of the best houses in one of the best vintages. We have faithfully followed Lopez for years and enjoyed virtually every vintage of Cubillo along the way. This is the best version we have ever tasted by a good bit. Made from 65% Tempranillo, 25% Garnacha, and the rest Mazuelo and Graciano all from estate vineyards, this saw three years in barrel (like a gran reserva) after which it is bottled unfiltered.

Sure it has all of the accustomed sweet cherry and plum fruit, dusty/spicy classic Rioja accents and underpinning of vanilla and balsamic. But there is more weight, power and richness in the midpalate, impeccable balance between the fruit and tannins and a remarkable but refined presence in the glass. Over the course of several hours it evolved glacially, so packed and structured, yet it never ceased to impress. We dare say it is better than some of their Tondonia and Bosconia bottlings we have had in the past, yet this surprising beverage can be had for under $25. Amazing? You bet!

But that’s Rioja, that’s Lopez, and the greatness of 2010.

We were not alone in our praise. Luis Gutierrez of robertparker.com wrote, “The 2010 Viña Cubillo Tinto Crianza is superb and shows great depth and nuance, with great freshness, and the red cherries are complemented by notes of blood oranges, nutmeg and other spices. It has a soft and harmonious palate, with great balance and very good freshness. – 93 Points!”

Given James Suckling’s usual brevity of comments, this is a virtual tome, “Cubillo is a very focused and quite crisp style of red that has spent three years in barrique and then in larger cask to wait for bottling, which happens two years before the expected release. The richness and depth of complex dried wood and spice here is seamlessly sewn into the dried red and dark cherries. The palate is pinned around a fresh-blackberry core that marries still sweet fruit to more savory style. Long and balanced. The tannins are fine yet assertive. It freshens into the finish nicely. Drink or hold…95 Points!”

Great house, great vintage, great price, this one checks all the boxes! This is not to be missed.

Marvelous Muscadet: Classic Oyster Wine A Cut Above

Most people who have had any extended exposure to French wine eventually run across Muscadet. The overwhelming image is of a crisp, dry,relatively serviceable wine to wash down some oysters or a chilled seafood plate popular in French bistros. That’s pretty much what we knew about it until one day our world was seriously rocked by a wine from a fellow named Pèpiére. It had more body and density than any Muscadet we had ever run across, and delivered an unforgettable palate experience. ‘Great’ Muscadet? Who knew?

The ‘old knowledge’ also reinforced the idea that Muscadet was at its absolute best when it was at its freshest. For the typical mass produced Muscadets that populate the majority of the marketplace, that is probably true. But we came in contact with some remarkable examples that were given extended lees contact that enriched the wine and gave them the structure to last a decade or more. These ‘super-Muscadets’ took the genre to unexpected heights and today’s offering is one of those that will give you a whole new perspective on the subject.

Founded in 2005 by the talented winemaking duo of Jérémie Huchet and Jérémie Mourat, Les Betes Curieuses (literally translated ‘The Curious Beasts’) is a collaboration to explore the distinct terroirs of Muscadet and showcase a more serious and age-worthy side of the region. Jérémie Mourat, from the Vendee (south of Nantes) initially met Jérémie Huchet, whose winery is located in Muscadet at Chateau Thebaud, through a shared interest in organic viticulture. Huchet was heavily influenced in his approach to farming and winemaking by Marc Olivier (of Domane Pepiere). Besides their technical skills, the partners draw on generations of experience in knowing the best sites of the region. They make four different single cru bottlings.

This is not your grandfather’s Muscadet. While Muscadet has long been recognized as one of the world’s great value wines, there is much more to the region. The cru communaux (communal crus) were initially set up in 2011 and now total 11 in number (as of 2017). These are distinct crus (think cru Beaujolais as a comparison) that were associated with unique soil types where exceptional examples of Muscadet’s grape, Melon de Bourgogne, were consistently harvested. Lower yields and longer aging sur lie (a minimum of 18 months on the lees and 2 years total elevage is required) help to ensure only the very best wines carry the cru names on them. Only 1% of all Muscadet is cru communaux!

The ‘Curious Beasts’ vinify the crus separately using the same farming and winemaking techniques for each. They focus on old, head-trained vines (most are more than 50 years old), organic farming, and minimal intervention winemaking. After fermentation the wines are aged for long periods of time in underground cement tanks on the lees. By keeping everything the same between plots, they clearly demonstrate the differences in terroir. Chateau-Thebaud is comprised of 50-year-old vines planted at a dense 7000 vines/ha on clay gravel atop granite. The grapes are hand harvested, slowly pressed and cold settled. The native yeast fermentation occurs in underground tanks with no lees stirring and the wine is aged on those lees solids for 5 years before bottling.

The result is this riveting white. The Jérémie’s Chateau Thebaud Muscadet Sevre et Maine 2010, at age eight, is remarkably vigorous, and shows no sign of tapering off. The bright flavor band hurls intense stony minerality, skin-on pear, lime, honey, orange and almond, with a changing profile every sip. High pitched yet creamy through the middle, this engages all of the palate and finishes with a snappy salinity. It gets your attention, shows invigorating complexity, and has plenty of tension and grip to keep everything nicely humming along.

Great producer, outstanding ‘cru’, exceptional vintage, this is Muscadet at its very best. This is Muscadet that can play with the ‘big boys’ from anywhere and change people’s expectations of what the region can do, even though only a handful of vignerons work at this level. If you are a fan of Chablis, northern Italian or Austrian whites, or crisp whites in particular, this will be right in your wheel house. The best part is that you can get this ‘game changer’ for under $20.

Spanish Immersion, Part Dos: Ravishing Rioja

It is pretty easy to buy Spanish wines ‘by the numbers’ these days. There seems to be no end to the parade of well-priced, aged reds from places like Rioja that are getting great notes from the media, and deservedly so. But every once in a while one comes along that is so accommodating and delicious that reviews aren’t really a factor. Simply put, we have an outstanding selection of Spanish wines that fall into that big score, little price category already. We didn’t need this one, but bought it anyway with an eye to our own consumption.

The Lealtanza Rioja Gran Reserva 2010, is, by classic Riojano definition, the top traditional bottling from this house. What impressed here, besides the obvious depth of quality to the fruit as expected from a gran reserva in one of Rioja’s benchmark vintages, was the plush, ample, velvety palate feel that was a cut above the crowd even for this typically crowd-pleasing genre.

The wine is packed with cassis, black raspberry and other dark berry fruit laced with cocoa, spice, a hint of pepper and a whiff of tobacco, all served on a bed of nicely ripe, mellow tannins. But what really sets it apart is its fleshy sweetness on the palate, engaging roundness, and soft core of fruit as it rolls across your tongue. Yes, Riojas aim to please. But this wine simply does it a bit better. The reviews will likely come. We haven’t seen any yet. But in truth, we’re already pretty smitten with this one. Deliciousness trumps everything. As Gran Reservas go, it’s pretty attractively priced as well ($22.98). All the better.