Grenache

JUNIOR CHATEAUNEUF LOOK-ALIKE FROM SPAIN

In the early days of the Spanish invasion in the 90s, this was a staple and an important part of our lineup. It was also one of the first of its kind. Robert Parker himself said of the 1997 version in his review, “Readers can be sure I will be purchasing several cases for enjoying over the next several years. It tastes like an excellent Chateauneuf du Pape, and even though they can be terrific values, a Chateauneuf du Pape of this quality would sell for $20-$30 a bottle.”

Since that time there have been quite a few value selections from old-vine Grenache plantings in Spain that have created their own followings in this marketplace like Borsao, their ‘upper cuvee’ Tres Picos, and Las Rocas de San Alejandro Garnacha Viñas Viejas. New ones are coming along all the time to the point where we haven’t talked about one of the originals, Nekeas El Chaparral de Vega Sindoa Grenache Old Vines 2018, in quite a while, though we have carried many vintages along the way.

This version allows us to talk about it once again. In truth, if you don’t, people forget about it. So do we for that matter, as it is very easy to get caught up with the new and different and not spend a lot of effort on solid brands that have performed admirably for years. Wines like this have value in any market and there are likely a lot of new buyers that have come along since the days we were talking about this wine a lot looking for a good value on a versatile red.

Bodegas Nekeas is located in the high country of Navarra, northeast of Rioja, and the vines that supply the grapes for this wine were planted between 1890 and 1960. That’s old, and incumbent with using grapes from such elderly vines is the naturally low yields and concentration that comes from that growing scenario as well as the depth of flavor that can’t be created by any other means than deep-rooted, old vines.

These are hillside vineyards composed of sandstone and calcerous marl with a long vegetative cycle, warm summers and a great shift between daytime and nighttime temperatures that preserve the wine’s bright acidity. They practically make themselves in that very little needs to be done when the grapes are harvested. It’s a unique situation that exists in this part of the world that allows wines like this to be sold for under $15.

The ‘stats’ are particularly impressive for this edition of El Chaparral which made it a perfect time to mention it again. The lead piece is from Josh Raynolds of Vinous who wrote, “Deep garnet. Mineral-tinged cherry, raspberry, vanilla and exotic spice aromas show excellent clarity and take on a smoky nuance with air. Appealingly sweet and expansive on the palate, offering juicy red fruit, rose pastille and spicecake flavors energized by a minerally topnote. Shows impressive energy and florality on the persistent finish, which is given shape by polished, even tannins…92 points.”

Throw in support reviews from Jeb Dunnuck (90 points) and James Suckling (92 points) and a $13.98 price point and you have a very viable value choice for those everyday occasions where you want something tasty, interesting, and not too expensive that will go with all manner of foods. That, for a lot of people, is most days.

OFF-THE-BEATEN-PATH VALUE GEM

One could say that we are practicing ‘inclusion’ here. This is an exceptional wine and an amazing value that deserves serious attention. But at a time when the wine world is filled with panic selling because of a number of current pandemic/economic reasons, and there are enough wild offers to fill the airwaves for the foreseeable future, a wine like this little gem has much less of a chance of getting the attention it deserves.

First off, the name is both foreign and unfamiliar. The name Edetaria Terra Alta Via Edetana Negra doesn’t just roll off tongue. It comes from a somewhat obscure appellation called Terra Alta, south of Priorat and Monsant and arguably less highly regarded as a region. As much Spanish wine as we work with, even we don’t see a lot of stuff specifically from this appellation, and most of what we do is rustic, closed, and requires extensive aeration and patience.

The Edetaria Terra Alta Via Edetana Negra 2017 is a notable exception, the proverbial ‘needle’ in a ‘haystack’ that few people bother to even sift through. Wouldn’t it be easier for us to find someone panicked to unload a Cabernet at half price? Sure. There’s plenty of that going around these days, and we will do more than our share. But that is exactly the point. A wine like this a year ago was a stunning deal, and still holds its own even in the current tumult. Down the road, when all of this uncertainly subsides and things return to normal (however that will be defined), wines like this will still be exceptional value choices.

Joan Àngel Lliberia grew up here, studied Agricultural Engineering in Lleida and earned a Master of Science in Wine Management, whereupon he worked at several wine companies in France. He moved back to Catalunya, where he continued his career in the wine sector and later on multinational corporations. But his dream come true was to establish this winery in central Tierra Alta as an homage to his grandfather oenologist Llorens and viticulturist parents . The goal is making true terroir wines out of his family vineyards in a ‘genuine style’.

The story is relatively simple because these folks are all about the land which was already there. Winemaking in this part of Catalonia predates Roman times (the name of the winery is a reference to an old Roman road that stretched between Torotosa and Zaragoza). They keep it simple by farming organically and fermenting the grapes from the varied soil types separately, giving them 12 months in 300 liter barrels and then blending.

The blend here is 60% Garnacha Fina and Garnacha Peluda, 30% Syrah and 10% Cariñena from 20 to 40 year-old vineyards in different terroirs: The Garnachas and Syrah come from soils they call “tapàs” (silty soils with clay materials), and Carignan from ”tapàs blanc” (shallow soils with marl carbonated fragments). The unique soils really suit the Grenaches and the cool, expressive dark cherry character is the highlight of the show. The Syrah adds muscle and some blue fruits, and the Carignane dashes in some earth tones.

The wine shows great purity of fruit with the impression fluctuating between a kinder, gentler Priorat and something from the northern part of the southern Rhone. The 2017 was one of a string of excellent vintages in this part of Spain, and this wine’s layered, juicy, cool flavors and tender-but-bright demeanor deliver far beyond the sub-$20 fare. We have tasted a lot of wines from this part of the world and few are this ‘together’, clearly demonstrating the character of the region in an open, engaging way, but doing so with the polish of a serious, boutique label aimed at discriminating buyers.

James Suckling took a shine to this one as well, writing “I love the licorice accents here, which work so well with the overtones of blueberries, citrus, boysenberries and brambles. Firm and tight on the taut palate, which is medium-bodied and so lithe and restrained. Clear-cut and precise. Drink now… 94 points.”

Like we said, it would be easy for a wine like this to get lost in the shuffle of the here and now. But it would also be a shame. This is a soulful, personality-filled effort at a great price, and the kind of delicious, off-the-beaten-path find everyone needs in their life. The flash deals of today won’t last forever and this is a potential friend for the long haul. There’s also a small amount of their expressive all-Grenache Edetaria Via Terra Garnatxa Negra Terra Alta 2018 (James Suckling 92, $11.98!).

WELCOME BACK, POWELL

We have been at the Aussie game for nearly three decades now, and can honesty say that we were involved in the earliest days of the boutique influx. We were among the very first customers for groundbreaking importers like the late John Larchet (Australian Premium Wine Collection) and Dan Philips (Grateful Palate). We can still recall looking at a status report from an early shipment from Grateful Palate where a wine that we had never heard of called Torbreck RunRig (1994 vintage if memory serves) was on our manifest. We asked Dan about it and he simply said, “you want it.”

Turned out it was sensational and the first step in a long and successful run for the Torbreck label. The mind behind it was one Dave Powell, clearly a man of enormous winemaking talents and great ambition. Over the years he continued to amaze with one distinctive, deliciously well-conceived bottling after another. His winemaking associate at the time was Dan Standish, who has spun off to create a sensational label of his own.

Torbreck is now in the capable hands of former Peter Lehmann winemaker Ian Hongell. What happened to Dave? Well the story of his personal life would probably make a pretty good cable series on one of the edgier channels. But the key elements were that Dave got into a situation where he needed a serious infusion of capital to keep the label afloat and subsequently made his investment arm so distraught with some of his antics that he was essentially kicked out of the company he founded.

People have said all kinds of salty things about Powell. But no one, even his detractors, could honestly say that he wasn’t a brilliant winemaker. Well after the Torbreck debacle, the supremely confident Powell kind of disappeared from view. Apparently he spent some time teaching his son, Callum, the ropes and, clearly, the guy hasn’t lost a step. Whether or not this new duo will be able to equal the pinnacle of success that Torbreck enjoyed remains to be seen. But if you are looking for great purity of fruit, expressive personality, and unique profiles, why not go with one of the best winemakers in all of Australia.

Dave believes most of the work happens in the vineyard and this is where Dave and Callum spend most of their time. The resulting wines have the same kind of flair that those early Torbreck wines showed. The short story is that Dave is back, and doing what he does best in creating distinctive, hand-made wines. It doesn’t hurt that these debut wines are from 2016 which was an exceptional vintage Down Under.

Powell and Son Riverside Grenache Mataro Shiraz Barossa Valley 2016–It starts here with The Powells’ entry-level red, the 2016 Riverside Grenache Mataro Shiraz, a 70% Grenache, 20% Mataro and 10% Shiraz blend that spent 15 months in large foudres and concrete prior to bottling. A Wine Advocate 91, the comments are, “It’s full-bodied but floral and fine, with a silky texture, cherry fruit and a bit of earthy depth. It should drink well for 3-4 years, possibly more.” It’s like the old Torbreck Woodcutters value bottling only more engaging and packed with fruit. It’s kind of ‘old World’, as is Dave’s bent, but there’s an appealing lift and new World freshness. At $17.98 it’s a buy.

Powell and Son Shiraz Barossa and Eden Valleys 2016– The Barossa & Eden Valleys Shiraz “epitomises the philosophy of Powell & Son to marry the greatness of the Barossa and Eden Valleys”. Barossa supplies the rich middle with the higher elevation, cooler Eden Valley giving the wine a lift and freshness that people don’t typically think is a part of Australian reds. A 50/50 blend of Eden Valley Shiraz from 40+ year-old vines and Barossa Valley Shiraz from 60+ year-old vines, the fruit is fermented separately in concrete vats before spending 15 months in 4,500 liter French oak foudres.

The aroma of this wine shows kirsch, lavender, sage and charred meats. It has a dark, brooding character to add further complexity. The palate is dense and deep with ripe black fruits: plum, blackberry compote as well as a cured meats and black olive.

Wine Advocate was quite supportive with a 94 point score and notes, “Taking price into account, the GMS and this wine, the 2016 Barossa & Eden Valleys Shiraz, are my favorites in the Powells’ lineup. The blend is 50-50, as there was a single foudre from each region used in the blend. The nose is more floral and garrigue-like than the straight Barossa Shiraz, with mulberry and blueberry fruit mingling easily on the palate. It’s full-bodied, creamy-textured and rich, with a concentrated, velvety finish that’s a clear step up from the entry-level wines.”

Wine Spectator was equally enthusiastic with a 93 point score and comments, “Whiffs of eucalyptus and white pepper announce the massive, dense and concentrated blueberry and blackberry flavors, with Earl Grey tea— and clove-scented notes on the finish. There’s no denying the power here. A good candidate to evolve with mid-term cellaring.” The $44.98 price is serious, but so is the wine.

Powell and Son Grenache Shiraz Mataro Barossa Valley 2016– The Barossa Valley GSM takes the various ‘parts’ and hones it into a complete new world Chateauneuf type wine. The blend is about 2/3 Grenache from mature Barossa Valley Grenache bush vines, with Shiraz and Mataro making up the balance. Again the maturing in big foudres harmonizes everything while not allowing the wood to get in the way of the fruit. Engaging, expressive, and intense, yet never overblown.

Again impressive words from Wine Advocate, “…One of the best values and flat-out sexiest wines in the lineup is the 2016 Grenache-Shiraz-Mataro. Driven by the 1901-planted Grenache from Seppeltsfield that makes up 60% of the blend, it’s richer, darker and deeper than the Riverside bottling. Sage and licorice notes add nuance to the black cherries on the nose and palate of this full-bodied, richly concentrated and layered offering. 94 Points!”

Dave is back and this line with his son is an important new (old?) face on the Aussie scene.

VIDEO: THE EXTRACT INTERVIEWS WINEMAKER TROY KALLESKE

Have you checked out our Youtube channel, The Extract? It’s a weekly video series dedicated to wine geeks and cork dorks from novice to expert. We talk shop with wine producers, growers, and makers from all over to bring you candid discussions about wine philosophy, technique, and most of all…passion.

Here’s our most recent interview with Australian winemaker Troy Kalleske of Kalleske Wines. Troy’s family has been around the Barossa block growing grapes for over 160 years but somehow Troy is the first generation to actually make wine with them!

Enjoy.