France – Page 2

SIZE DOES MATTER: JEAN LAURENT 2008 MAGNUMS

Years ago (like the 80s and 90s), there was a publication called Connoisseurs’ Guide had significant influence on people’s tastes. Besides being a pretty good source for finding obscure California gems, they also wrote some of the best pans when they didn’t like something. More to the point, every so often they would do a tasting of California sparklers and one particular quirk of theirs was that incumbent in those reviews they would have notes on the same bubbly in regular bottles and also in magnums. The magnums consistently scored higher. After much of our own ‘research’, we came to accept their axiom. While it is difficult to verbalize why exactly (and you know we’re not usually ‘lost for words’), somehow magnums seemed to present more layers of flavor and more refinement. We can’t explain the science of it, but we are believers.

We tell that story to tell this one. We have found a modest cache of magnum bottles from a long-time house favorite Jean Laurent. The estate is situated south of Epernay, in the outlying Côte des Bar region of Champagne. We’ve talked about the Bar recently as an emerging source for serious boutique producers but these guys were out in the market long before ‘the Bar’ had the cool kid vibe it has today.

Their vineyards are in the village of Celles‐sur‐Ource, with a few parcels in the neighboring village Landreville. They total 39 acres (30 of Pinot Noir, 6+ of Chardonnay, 3 of Pinot Blanc (a legal but not widespread grape in Champagne), and small plantings of Arbane (a historic grape in this Aube region but there is little remaining). The vines are planted in distinctive chalky soils, part of a band that stretches from Champagne to Chablis and all the way to the White Cliffs of Dover (where the Brits are making some sparklers of their own).

The vineyards average 25 to 30 years in age, with the oldest parcels at more than 60 years old. Jean Laurent was one of the earliest RMs we were exposed to (“Recoltant Manipulant” – the French term for Grower Producer) and we have since followed this genre of Champagne producers with great enthusiasm. Like the title says, Jean makes Champagnes exclusively from his own vineyards. You’ve heard us yammer on about the terroir aspect that grower Champagne has over the big houses and this is one of those special places where the juice comes from small, distinctive patches of vines farmed sustainably and is produced in a limited batch.

There are a number of other key points but the most important are that this is large format bottle from, according to the Wine Advocate vintage chart, the highest rated vintage in Champagne in the last quarter century. The Jean Laurent Brut Blanc de Blanc La Griffe de l’Ource 2008 Magnum is 100% Chardonnay from this legendary vintage aged 30 months in tank prior to bottling (no oak) and then seeing 8 years on the lees sur latte (on their sides) and 2 years on the lees sur point (cork down) prior to disgorgement.

Given the vintage and what we have referred to in past pieces as the riper, richer character of ‘the Bar’, this is an ample Champagne with notes of citrus, yellow melon, cherry, brioche, and honeylike flecks in the nose and finish. The mousse is refined, no doubt in part due to the bottle age, and the palate is both lifted and creamy. This is a fine and expressive bottle of Champagne to plan something around and, yes, the extra nuance that the ‘big bottle’ provides appears to be in full effect.

The Magnum format itself ostensibly adds a point or two to the review here that was done by Wine Spectator on the 750 ml bottle in December, 2019, “Creamy and well-knit, with good focus to the baked white cherry, honeycomb and ginger biscuit flavors. A harmonious version, framed by sleek acidity and a chalky underpinning, this is long and mouthwatering on the lightly spiced finish. Disgorged July 2019. Drink now through 2028. 375 cases made…93 points.”

Large format, epic vintage, this is a very special holiday treat. Only 20 magnums available at this writing.

FINE BUBBLY BUY: CHARLES LE BEL 1818 FROM BILLECART-SALMON

Where has this been all our lives? We have been selling Billecart Salmon wines for a very long time but never got a whiff of this one until several months ago. One curiosity was that this was coming through a different wholesale source than the folks that have been Billecart’s market representative for well over a decade. Still, the prospect of a Champagne this good for the kind of price we were going to be able to sell it for with a connection to an elite and well-respected house was an exciting development. You can imagine our disappointment when the anticipated rollout of this wine didn’t happen because there were only a couple of cases at the wholesaler that vaporized instantly at kickoff time.

We never forgot about it though, and the first load of Champagne Charles Le Bel “Inspiration 1818” has finally arrived. The story is that this is the ‘second label’ of Billecart Salmon Brut Reserve NV. Billecart-Salmon vinifies base wines from a greater number of parcels than it actually needs for the production of its core cuvees. The winery has very specific ideas about the style and consistency of the sparklers that bear their label. The tasting committee tastes each of these base wines and selects only the ones that match the house palate to go into the Billecart bottlings. Those cuvees that don’t make the Billecart cut are then eligible for second wine. Bear in mind that they were grown and produced to Billecart’s standards, so this is not second tier juice.

Again according to testimony (we couldn’t find any mention of Charles Le Bec on the Billecart website though 1818 was the year that Billecart was founded) the vinification is done at Billecart’s facility in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. The grapes come from vineyards with younger vines. The entire operation from start to finish takes place in the Billecart-Salmon cellars. That makes it a surety with respect to originality and character. The cepage is 37% Chardonnay, 33% Pinot Noir and 30% Pinot Meunier with 70% of the blend originating from reserve wines.

Of course, it’s ultimately about the juice and the Charles Le Bel Inspiration “1818” Brut NV is a delicious, classic Champagne with fine bead, aromas of baked bread, almond skins, apples, berries and pears. It is clear the winemaking aspect was done by talented cellar masters, with a refined, creamy palate feel, round mid-palate and a crisp but metered finish with touches of minerality and citrus. It’s arrival is perfect timing as, in a market where a number of Champagne producers are pushing up prices even as the euro is at a historic low, we are presenting a new value Champagne option from an unimpeachable source at a great price.

ROSÉ ROUNDUP

There are those that might think rosé season is over as most people’s definition of summer, Labor Day, draws to a close. Locals know that ‘summer’ weather can appear again anytime through mid November, plus we believe that pink wine has appropriate occasions year round. Also, thanks to the general mess that is logistics, a lot of pink wines didn’t even show up until late June and beyond. Here’s a fresh batch of rosés to consider.

Conterno Nervi Il Rosato Piedmont 2021-A 100% Nebbiolo rosé from arguably the greatest estate in Gattinara now under the direction of iconic vigneron Roberto Conterno, such an intro is bound to raise expectations of this pink wine beyond reasonableness. It has actually stood up to its billing in the context of rosé in our experience. Nebbiolo is renowned for its conveyance of terroir and this salmon colored pink shows a lot of nuance under its crisp, appealing, food oriented red melon/red berry fruit. Bright, juicy, and deceptively complex.

Martinelli Rosé of Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2021– If it’s about sourcing, this deeply colored rosé comes from a saignee (bleeding) of the grapes used for this wineries iconic Pinot Noirs. About as dark as it could be and still qualify as rosé, there’s a bit of a red wine attitude with this one. Ample and weighty, it avoids the pratfall of so many California pinks by being relatively lighter on its feet. A great foil for darker fish, fowl, and whiter meats.

Saint Damien Gigondas Rosé 2021-To be honest, seeing a pink wine bearing the appellation Gigondas was a bit of a surprise (we had never seen one nor did we know the AOC allowed pink wine). That said, what a lovely addition to the lineup. A medium salmon-hued blend of 50% Cinsault, 30% Mourvèdre and 20% Grenache, it’s medium-bodied, with a lovely texture and clear layers of complexity that are somewhat unusual for pink wine. White stone fruits, a little citrus cut and some red melon along with notes of stone and a bit of a tactile mouthfeel, this is something of a house favorite.

Clos Alivu Patrimonio Rosé 2021-Corsican rosés are a bit perplexing. There is controversy even over the origins of the Neillucio graoe that is the lone star here as to whether it is indigenous to Corsica or is some transmutated clone of Sangiovese brought here by the Genoans centuries ago. When they are ‘on’, these rosés can be quite compelling as is this one. This comes from some of the best terroir on the island, 50+ year-old vines on terraced slopes composed of unique calcareous limestone, clay, and schist mix called Petra Bianca with marine influence. Strawberry, red cherry, and some floral and chalk underpinning with a little saline lick to the finish.

Pibarnon Bandol Rosé 2021-This is what Bandol rosé can be and why it is revered among wine geeks. The nose alone wafts complexity with berries, mineral, wild herbs, woodsy notes, and a bit of salinity. The aromas give full measure of what you will experience on the palate with, again, a broad array of nuances vying for attention. It’s almost a little wild but, at the finish, you realize these folks knew exactly what they were doing. A straight forward blend of 65% Mourvedre and 35% Cinsault from a terraced vineyard that faces the Mediterranean, it’s a little more money than your average quaffing pink but worth it.

Pascal et Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Terre de Maimbray Rose 2021 -Reverdy is a name you run across a bit in the Loire Valley and there are many iterations of this family name. Pascal and Nicolas Reverdy work out of the the tiny hamlet of Maimbray nestled in a valley surrounded by chalk hills that are nearly mountain-like in steepness forming right angles with famous neighboring towns Chavignol and Verdigny. The estate is known for white Sancerre of course and has something of a name for their red Sancerres as well. The ‘Terre de Maimbray’ refers to their village terroir with its Kimmeridgeon soils. Organically grown, this is classic Loire rosé with fairly unctuous up front strawberry, melon and pear fruit cutting to a crisp slightly ‘flinty’ finish. If you don’t get to it this year, these actually can develop well over the next couple of years.

FINALLY SOME PINK TALK

Yeah, we’ve talked about supply chain and all of that, but we’ve finally accumulated a lovely crop of 2021 roses. Here are some hightlights…

Mirabeau Cotes de Provence Rosé 2021-One of those made for TV type stories where Stephen and Jeany Cronk move their family from south London to Provence with the goal of establishing a successful winery. The happy ending was the Mirabeau wines, a collection of several roses that have garnered international attention. Domaine Mirabeau is a 20 hectare estate which includes 14 hectares of AOP Côtes de Provence vines plus they have established relationships with other premium growers in the region. This is the delightful entry level effort, a blend of 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache, that captures the delicate nature of Provence rose with delicate but outgoing berry fruit with floral and spice tones.

Mas de Cadenet Cotes de Provence Ste. Victoire Rosé 2021-The key to Provencal rose is expressive fruit that is at the same time delicate. This wine reflects the calcerous soils of the area of Ste. Victoire. Inviting pale pink, nose of both berry and white stone fruits, crisp lift to the finish, this is another complete version of the genre that’s engaging but supremely light on its feet. A blend of 45% Grenache, 45% Cinsault, and 10% Syrah.

Clos Cibonne Cotes de Provence Rosé Tentations 2021-A new (to us) version from this long time favorite Clos Cibonne whose rose based on the rare Tibouren grape is a consistent favorite around here. That botting is, like Domaine Tempier (in quality not necessarily style), is now in the $40+ range (well worth it we might add), making this more ‘popularly price’ effort a welcome addition. While featuring younger vined Tibouren (15%), Tentations also has 50% Grenache, 20% Cinsault and 15% Syrah in the mix grown by farmers with whom the Deforges family has long-standing relationships, working in prime spots in the villages of La Crau and Carqueiranne. Bottled with a screw cap, this is a fresh, delicate, tasty rose where the flavor range is expanded a bit by the mineral/earthy Tibouren. Very food friendly and also vegan friendly.

Cavalchina Bardolino Chiaretto Rosato 2021– The Cavalchina folks are shining stars in a region that is largely uninspired. The Chiaretto (key-ar-et-to) is what they call their rosé and it here it is made as a rosé rather than as a ‘bleed’ from the red wine. That helps retain this juicy wine’s its vibrant acidity. Made from the classic grapes of Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara (some as Valpolicella) this is full of lively berry and citrus flavors. This is a winery that has been around since 1948 and Vinous Media’s Ian D’Agata calls them, “…a recognized master in the making of Chiarettos.” This is also the fourth vintage in a row we have carried this delightful, crowd pleasing pink.

Raul Perez Leon Rosado Arrotos del Pendon 2021– Made from 100% Prieto Picudo from very old vines in stony clay at high altitude (800m ASL). The grapes were macerated for two days on the skins before bleeding off, fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, raised on the fine lees for four months in tank, bottled without fining or filtration. The extended maceration would explain the deeper color and give you a clue that this is a ‘pink’ with an attitude more of a red wine. Dark berries, some minerality, more ‘vinuous’ than most roses, if there was a rose on the shelf that could stand up to grilled meats, this is it. Distinctive and delicious.

Commanderie de la Bargemone Coteaux d’Aix en Provence Rosé 2021-Bargemone is another label that has been with us for many seasons, and the 2021 is on point again as one of the best values from this region. Definitely more of a red berry feel to the profile here, a bit more midpalate weight (as pinks go) and . Older vines (30 year average) and a different mix of grapes (40% Grenache, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cinsault…Cabernet not a common ingredient around these parts). Organic farming here, this one shows dark berries and yellow melon, a little spice, pepper, and florality in the nose and always a really palatable price.

THERE’S A NEW KID IN TOWN: WITH RAVISHING BEAUJOLAIS

We’ve been crusaders for Beaujolais for a long time as most of you know. Thew region has been seeing quite a revival recently as some new faces are starting to appear. While we have been long acquainted with Bernard Burgaud, one of the blue chip names in Beaujolais, this Burgaud is new to us but definitely got our attention.

Alexandre Burgaud is, relatively speaking, new to the wine scene in Beaujolais, having purchased vines in 2013. A rising star, his property comprises 12 hectares which were purchased from among plots that the family had worked for generations. Alexandre has it in mind to purchase additional parcels, some of which he currently rents.

The style here is very traditional. A semi-carbonic vinification in concrete vats, using all the stems, creates wines that are fruit forward and, in this case, gushing with character. It is finished in older barrels.

This particular wine is from a section of Beaujolais called Lantignié, where Alexandre’s best parcels are located. The vines exceed 50 years-of-age and are situated in rocky, blue granite soils that bear a resemblance to those of the Cote de Py, one of Beaujolais’ most renowned vineyards.

Some suggest this particular small vineyard could receive Cru status some day, which of course goes beyond winemaking into politics. But given our limited experience with this source, we’ll suggest Alexandre can make a pretty good case.

This wine had the kind of layered, sweet, dark fruits that would win friends easily. As an example from the appealing 2019 vintage, it also carried that plush texture that brings one back for more. It was too easy to drink and, clearly, one didn’t have to be any kind of wine genius to ‘get’ this Beaujolais.

William Kelley of WIne Advocate had good things to say about the domaine, “I identified this 12-hectare domaine, founded in 2013, as one to watch in my last Beaujolais report, and this more extensive tasting confirmed Alexandre Burgaud’s talents…Fleshy and flavorful, with the substance to age but plenty of near-term appeal, these are nicely made wines which come recommended.”

Kelley’s notes on this Alexandre Burgaud Beaujolais Villages Lantignié 2019 definitely coincide with our impressions, especially the use of the term ‘bursting’, “Bursting with aromas of cherries, berries and spices, the 2019 Beaujolais-Villages Lantignié is medium to full-bodied, round and succulent, with lively acids, melting tannins and a generous core of fruit. Slightly more dynamic and lively than the rounder, more gourmand 2018, this has turned out very well…92 points.”

‘Turned out very well’ seems a bit of an understatement, but suffice it so say this is a versatile, hedonistic, and well priced ($18.98) beverage that everyone should check out. The ‘new kid’ has got chops.

EXCITING ‘INSIDER’ FIND IN CHABLIS

There are always new things to discover with wine. As odd as it may sound, the other day we ran across a designation we had never seen before. Now that, in and of itself, isn’t necessarily shocking. There are lots of new things coming to light in wine as new areas and producers are appearing as the world becomes smaller and more connected. But we are talking about Chablis, a place that has existed as a wine appellation for centuries within the same boundaries more or less, and our buying team that, combined, is approaching a century of experience.

The producer is one that is pretty familiar around here, Chateau des Malandes in Chablis. Founded in 1949 by the grand parents of the current owners, it was run until 2018 by their daughter, Lyne Marchive. We have sold the wines for years and they have always had a very appealing, some might say ‘feminine’ style. Malandes Chablis, while portraying the various terroirs from which they came, always had in common a tender, fruit-driven palate feel and rather gentle demeanor. Thus far not much has changed under the guidance of son Richard and daughter Amandine, and that’s a good thing.

The estate has holdings in a number of Premier Cru climats including Vau de Vey, Lechets, Montmains, Fourchaume and Mont de Milieu, as well as Grand Crus Vaudesir and Le Clos. But the subject of this piece is, as we said, something we had never seen until this bottling, the Domaine de Malandes Chablis ‘Envers de Valmur’ 2019. This is what they call a ‘lieu dit’ or ‘named vineyard’ in Burgundy. Essentially they are naming the vineyard on the bottle even though it does not have an official designation, something not that unusual in in the Cote d’Or but not all that common in Chablis.

As we all know about Burgundy, location is everything. We have talked many times about relatively unknown parcels that exist in close proximity to famous ones, and how the potential can far exceed the price commanded. That is the case here. This 1.6 ha parcel exists on the backside of the hill of Grand Cru vineyard Valmur (envers de Valmur literally means ‘behind Valmur’), and face west looking out at Grand Cru Vaudesir. The vines were planted in 1967 and typically deliver small, concentrated berries that give the wine plenty of punch and acidity as well as well-woven minerality.

The vineyard is farmed organically and the fruit sees time in oak vessels from one to seven years old with the purpose of rounding the wine and giving it a creamy texture while not letting pronounced wood notes get in the way of the vineyard terroir. The plush, inviting, somewhat gentle texture and palate feel has been a consistent feature of Malandes wines for as long as we have known them. Given this wine and the location, one has to wonder why this vineyard was never given any ‘official’ standing.

Like we said, we had not seen this designation before and there isn’t a lot of it anyway (about 900 cases produced). But it didn’t slip past the folks at Decanter Magazine who wrote, “Domaine des Malandes is a 29ha estate with the ‘Envers de Valmur’ an intriguing ‘insiders’ choice from vineyards abutting Grand Cru Vaudésir. Classic in colour, aroma and flavour profile on the palate, this is a fine Chablis with great potential for further ageing. Bright, focussed and mineral with a lovely balance between freshness, bright acidity and ripe fruit flavours. Long and precise on the finish… 94 Points!

This would have been an email but there really wasn’t enough juice to support that. We bought everything there was anyway because it is simply a lovely, well-priced example of the genre from a vintage that looks like it is going to get some attention.

DISTINCTIVE 2006 DUO FROM DANIEL-ETIENNE DEFAIX

We have spoken of our penchant for Chablis many times, and how Chablis, the region, is in a better place than it has ever been. There is a great range of activity there these days, classic producers as well as passionate newcomers that are expanding the style range of the region within the context of the classic chalky terroir. Even within the broad context of today, Daniel-Etienne Defaix is no ordinary Chablis producer. This guy is in the ‘aged Chablis’ business and we have had numerous great experiences with his wines dating back more than two decades. That makes him ‘the exception’ over a period of time where premature oxidation has changed people’s expectations about aging white Burgundy. And he does it for you!

His whole approach is not only different, it would be virtually impossible to imitate starting from scratch. For Defaix, aged Chablis is his raison d’etre. He has extensive holdings in Chablis and sells most of his harvest “en vrac” (in bulk). This affords him the capital to underwrite long aging of cuvees from selected lots of wine. First, only a small percentage of his produce actually finds its way into his bottlings in the first place. He retains the very best juice for his own label.

At that point, as we understand it, the wine ages for at least two years in vertical tanks with the lees in constant suspension. Each month or two the lees are pumped up-and-over the wine via an external tube with no exposure to air. Those lees circulate and descend through the vat over the next days and weeks in a state of suspension thus enriching the wine as they pass through.

Defaix decides when to bottle and then ages the wines in bottle until he deems them ready for prime time. He is in no particular hurry and ‘go time’ might not come for more than a decade. But when the wine then hits the shelves, it is in a state of near-perfect readiness. No one else conducts business in this manner. Not sure anyone could. As a number of you found out from the two rounds of offers we did with Defaix’s 2005s, the results are magic.

Today we are pleased to roll out an intriguing pair of 2006s we just tasted. We’ll tell you right up front that Defaix does not go out of his way to court the press and these wines have not been reviewed as yet. But 2006 is a better vintage and this pair is better respectively than those delightful, reviewed 2005s we sold before. Also, they couldn’t be more different from each other which is a pretty sensational demonstration of what terroir is all about.

The Daniel-Etienne Defaix Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 2006 panders in a way that only aged Chablis can. The vines (average age 45 years) are planted on a 28-degree slope in the original parcel of “Vaillon” with a southeast exposure. The soil here is particularly influenced by iron deposits which yields a wine of fruit and spice and great density. The Vaillons is influenced by notes of forest floor and subtle, more iron-like minerality, and is often the most generous wine of the domaine. That generality definitely applies here. The Vaillon has classic apple and citrus fruit up front laced with typical salinity and mineral notes. As it rolls across the palate, it flashes some lifted but surprisingly butter-like notes as well, sort of Chablis meets Cote de Beaune. Delightful, elegant and very civilized, this will appeal to a broad audience with its show of refinement, creamier palate and tender-but-insistent finish.

The Daniel-Etienne Defaix Chablis 1er Cru Cote de Lechet 2006 is more about power and exhibits what Defaix’s careful, purposeful process can deliver. If you are more of a ‘hard-core’ lover of Chablis, this one will ring your bell. It is truly spectacular in a different way. Defaix’s holdings in the Cote de Lechet are on a 38 degree slope facing southeast. Most of the grapes come from a single parcel called ‘Clos des Moines’. The vines are on average 45 years of age, and naturally have smaller yields, thus more concentrated fruit. This specific vineyard section has the reputation of being “the most emphatic and pure expression of the minerality.” That’s the story here, surprising size, stoniness, power, texture and energy, particularly for a 14-year-old white. Amazing.

Once again you have classic, perfectly proportioned Chablis at its optimum and showing a distinct display of the terroir. That is the Defaix way. Considering the effort and time to produce these wines, at these prices they are simply some of the better deals on premium Chablis we’ve encountered.

ANOTHER WINNER FROM THIVIN

This respected house was one of our first experiences with the 2019s from Beaujolais and, based on this ‘early return’, it looks to be a sensational harvest for this part of the world. Thivin is one of the iconic estates in Cotes de Brouilly and one with considerable history. It is the oldest estate on Mount Brouilly, circa the 15^th Century, and has been in the hands of the Geoffrey family since 1877. The vines are an average of 50-years-old and this crazy steep vineyard (an average 48% slope) is farmed organically.

As we have stressed in the past, there are front-loaded carbonic Beaujolais and there are estate producers that produce with the utmost care and work more like great Burgundy. Thivin is a poster child of that second group. The wines are always good, and occasionally brilliant examples. They can also be a bit inward on release. That is what was striking here. We don’t recall a deeper, richer, friendlier version of this wine out of the gate. Saturated color, ripe berry and plum on the nose and an expansive, broad, polished feel on the palate, this has fruit and character to burn. They have been on quite a roll, averaging 93 points from Wine Advocate for the last six, very different vintages.

Wine Advocate Burgundy guy William Kelly was on the same page, “Bottled a mere week before I tasted it, Thivin’s 2019 Côte de Brouilly unwinds in the glass with inviting aromas of plums, red berries, warm spices and peonies. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and enveloping, it’s bright and precise, with fine depth at the core and real energy, concluding with a long, gently tannic finish. A touch finer-boned and more dynamic than the gourmand, demonstrative 2018, this is showing very well…93+.”

It is showing well, indeed, yet history tells us that this wil age and develop for a decade at least, maybe longer, if you can keep your hands off it. At $26.98, it delivers well above its class and reaffirms our point that Beaujolais is still the source for some of the best value reds on the planet. It’s hard to say this is their best ever because they have had an impressive string of sensational efforts. But this Thivin Cote de Brouilly 2019 is definitely the sexiest.

Domaine du Gour de Chaule Gigondas 2015

Given how long and extensively we have worked with the Rhone, and the southern Rhone in particular, it’s a little surprising that this is only our second go around with this stylish Gigondas estate. Our first foray, the 2010 Gour de Chaule Gigondas was a huge hit and lot of boxes disappeared from the old location. This is actually the first volley in the newer spot, and the price is a little bit more than it was five years ago (that’s to be expected), but we are big fans of what this estate is doing.

The fact sheet reads something like this, with deference to the importer’s extensive and accessible information. The Domaine du Gour de Chaulé, situated in the heart of the village of Gigondas, was founded in 1900 by Eugene Bonfils, the great-grandfather of the current proprietor, Stephanie Fumoso. All the wine produced at the estate was sold in bulk to negociants until 1970 when Madame Rolande Beaumet, Eugene’s daughter and the grandmother of the current owner, Stéphanie, began to bottle a small percentage of the estate’s wine for sale to private clients.

Madame Beaumet’s daughter, Aline Bonfils, took the reins of the domaine in the early 1980s and it was she that broadened the tradition of estate bottling significantly. Stephanie was at the helm when we flipped over that 2010, and we were immediately captivated by a wine that, while it had all of the moxie one would expect from a Gigondas, it also had a polished presence that was considerably less ‘rough and tumble’ than most of the other ‘local produce’.

Were going to go out on a limb and suggests that a woman’s touch is clearly evident here (are we allowed to say that any more?) as the wine has the size and substance to stand among most Gigondas, but without the gritty tannins that are so often a part of wines from this appellation. Dark berries, stony minerality, pepper, and garrigue here, typicite is not an issue but this is a more white tablecloth version of the genre.

This Grenache based cuvee comes from three separate plots with the average vine age approaching age 60. Yields are most and the grapes are hand harvested, never destemmed, and sees no new oak. The wine is put into large foudres for 18 months before it is bottled unfiltered and unfined. Bottom line, this is a classy example from an often rustic area.

This is still kind of an under-the-radar property in the broad market, but the media is starring to take notice. Wine Advocate’s Joe Czerwinski had this to say, “Still in foudres and concrete, the 2015 Gigondas Cuvee Tradition is incredibly creamy, ripe and fresh. This full-bodied wine is bursting with ripe Grenache fruit, while the finish displays plush tannins. It’s not hugely complex—or maybe the fruit is just covering some of that complexity right now—but it sure is delicious…90-92 points.” He got the delicious part right, but that review was posted in Oct., 2017, which means it was tasted well before that. A lot can change in a year and a half (or more).

Even more upbeat was the prose from Josh Raynolds of Vinous, “Brilliant ruby. A heady bouquet evokes ripe red and blue fruits, Indian spices and smoky minerals, along with a hint of candied lavender in the background. Deeply concentrated yet energetic black raspberry, boysenberry and spicecake flavors unfold slowly, picking up a licorice quality that expands on the back half. Shows excellent clarity and mineral cut on a sweet, seamless finish shaped by smooth tannins…92-94 points.”

We know a lot of folks out there aren’t necessarily convinced by ‘barrel scores’. We tasted the Domaine du Gour de Chaule Gigondas 2015 out of the bottle. It’s delicious, complex and all we can say is ‘you go, girl’.

Great, well-priced, go-to Beaujolais…we got that

As a store that has been heavy into the Beaujolais game for more than a quarter century, it is interesting to note how much more interest the genre gets now than it did a couple decades ago. The thing it that most of that attention is devoted to the ‘cru’ level wines and folks like Liger Belair and Desjourneys who are trying to shake the traditional foundations of Beaujolais.

If you are looking for the classic, juicy, versatile example of Beaujolais, there are plenty of them out there, particularly from special vintages like 2015 and 2016. Unfortunately they are usually the entry level wine of some producer’s hierarchy and, because they are usually overshadowed by those ‘upper cuvees’, are less likely to get the kind of reviews that will inspire buyers.

Market mechanics are a big part of the equation to be sure. But one of the producers that has been a part of our lineup by virtue of a consistent juiciness and engaging personality to their wines is Domaine de Colette. These guys make that fruit driven, in-your face style that will make friends and influence people…in other words classic Beaujolais. The 2016 shows pure, ripe Gamay with very specific flavors that sit atop beautifully measured tension that gives this wine an uncommon energy along with a pleasing core of fruit.

The comments from Vinous’ Josh Raynolds on the Domaine de Colette Beaujolais Villages Coteaux de Colette 2016 are very positive, “Vivid red. Spicy, mineral-accented red berry and floral scents, along with a hint of white pepper. Juicy and focused on the palate, offering tangy red currant and strawberry flavors and a touch of allspice. Unfolds slowly, picking up a subtle floral pastille quality on the gently tannic, focused finish.’ But perhaps on a more mundane level, if you are looking for a well made, fruit driven, really pleasing Beaujolais, Colette has been a good source for us for a long time and this is a particularly good example. Great price for the performance!