As we told the story last time (with the 2016s), we were going through some open market offers in Europe and ran across one for a Winex favorite from years past, Domaine de la Soumade in Rasteau. We recalled they used to make some pretty impressive juice, Rasteau that played at a much higher level than the appellation. At the time we researched to find only four people in the country were offering this wine. Naturally we were all over that. This time around when we ‘wine-searchered’ the 2019 vintage from this house we found only one store offering it for sale…us. We can’t imagine why this talented, established producer hasn’t yet found a U.S. importer. But we aren’t losing any sleep over it as long as we can get it.
Domaine la Soumade was established by André Roméro in 1979. Since 1990 the whole production has been bottled at the domain. In 1996, when his son Frédéric Roméro had earned his BEPA Diploma in viticulture and oenology, he returned to the domain to join his father. These days André is dialing it back, essentially semi-retired, and the reins are now firmly in Frédéric’s capable hands.
The domain covers 27 hectares, one of which is in Gigondas and the rest is situated in Rasteau. They make nine different wines including four selections of Rasteau. The trend here is to use more large foudres (really big barrels) with the idea of keeping the star of the show, the super ripe Grenache, as fresh and bright as possible. They farm lutte raisonée, in effect organic unless there is a problem that can only be solved by commercial applications. They also have a somewhat unique situation in having Bordeaux superstar winemaker Stephane Derenencourt as a consultant. As we said, this domaine has always played above their appellation, and the 2019s are once again highlight performances.
The one thing about not having broad (or much of any) distribution in the U.S. is that your wares don’t get in front of the media as much, or in as timely a manner. While there are reviews out on a broad array of the 2019 southern Rhones as a category, very few pundits who have gotten to the 2019 Soumade wines. We did find one source that was as enthusiastic as we are although, truth be told, we were in on these wines regardless. They are quite easy to like and their track record is impressive. These two represent the best efforts.
The Domaine le Soumade Rasteau Cuvee Prestige 2019 slowly emits deep aromas of cranberry, dark berry, cured cherry, anise, and floral notes. There’s plenty of juicy, darker fruits in the mid-palate, some pretty spice and fresh herb notes around the edges and a surprising touch of pastry crust. Bright and lively, very expressive, this one definitely shows breeding beyond its sub-$20 price point.
Wine Enthusiast gave us the blend as well as some ‘encouraging words’, “Sun-kissed but zesty blackberry and boysenberry flavors are etched by veins of salt, crushed granite and peppercorn in this full-bodied blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre. Matured in equal parts stainless steel and large-format barrels, it’s pristine in black-fruit flavors and briskly balanced in acidity. Edged by very fine, peppery tannins, it’s vibrantly youthful now but should improve through 2029…93 points.”
The Domaine le Soumade Rasteau Cuvee Confiance 2019 is a similar blend from top parcels of older vines. Even though the scores are only a point apart from this reviewer, this one works at a level comparable to a very good Chateauneuf. There are more layers to the nose, with darker fruit and inviting spice and red licorice notes combining with a well tucked in florality. More stuffing, more intensity here along with sweeter, denser, even more compelling fruit, and this wine is tender yet vibrant and the balance is impeccable. Very classy juice.
Wine Enthusiast’s view was appropriately complimentary, “Domaine La Soumade devotes its oldest vines from 50-100 years old to this blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre. Vinified entirely in large-format wood vessels, its black plum and cherry flavors are lusciously concentrated but maintain a zestiness and mineral edge that are thrilling. Full bodied and opulent, it’s a velveteen, solidly structured red that should drink beautifully now–2030…94 points.”
We expect even bigger numbers down the road for the 2019s from other reviewers based on the reviews of the 2016s (2019 is another excellent vintage), but there haven’t been any more reviews of 2019 as yet. So you are still ahead of the game.
One interesting note. If we were unscrupulous merchants, we could point out we were substantially below the stated retail prices in the Enthusiast pieces ($60 and $70 respectively). We’ve never seen them offered anywhere near those prices. Suffice it to say, however, at $19.98 and $29.98 respectively, they deliver superb value. Limited.