It is pretty easy to buy Spanish wines ‘by the numbers’ these days. There seems to be no end to the parade of well-priced, aged reds from places like Rioja that are getting great notes from the media, and deservedly so. But every once in a while one comes along that is so accommodating and delicious that reviews aren’t really a factor. Simply put, we have an outstanding selection of Spanish wines that fall into that big score, little price category already. We didn’t need this one, but bought it anyway with an eye to our own consumption.
The Lealtanza Rioja Gran Reserva 2010, is, by classic Riojano definition, the top traditional bottling from this house. What impressed here, besides the obvious depth of quality to the fruit as expected from a gran reserva in one of Rioja’s benchmark vintages, was the plush, ample, velvety palate feel that was a cut above the crowd even for this typically crowd-pleasing genre.
The wine is packed with cassis, black raspberry and other dark berry fruit laced with cocoa, spice, a hint of pepper and a whiff of tobacco, all served on a bed of nicely ripe, mellow tannins. But what really sets it apart is its fleshy sweetness on the palate, engaging roundness, and soft core of fruit as it rolls across your tongue. Yes, Riojas aim to please. But this wine simply does it a bit better. The reviews will likely come. We haven’t seen any yet. But in truth, we’re already pretty smitten with this one. Deliciousness trumps everything. As Gran Reservas go, it’s pretty attractively priced as well ($22.98). All the better.