Tag: cubillo

We’ll skip the part about what huge fans of Rioja we are, and how they continue to be some of the most compelling values in the wine market.  It’s not like we haven’t said it before…a lot!  This time were going to get specific.  About 2 years ago, we did an offer with the 2011 Cune Imperial, making the point that James Suckling chose to score the 2011 higher than the vaunted 2010.  The 2010 vintage was epic in Rioja, while 2011 was very good but much warmer and not as ‘classic’ as 2010.  We wondered what possessed him to ‘go against the grain’ and score the 2011 higher than the ’10.  Then we tasted it. 

There are lots of ways to look at a wine.  The 2010 ‘checked all the boxes’, structure, balance, great fruit, it was all there.  But any self-respecting hedonist would choose the 2011, a layered, gushing, fruit forward mouthful of joy that erred on the side of deliciousness.  We recall that offer because when we saw the newest release of the Lopez de Heredia Rioja Viña Cubillo, the 2011, we were musing if it was going to be another such awakening.  We had deified the 2010 Cubillo as the best we could recall among all of the vintages that we had tasted since we started selling this iconic Rioja producer many years ago.   But the thought of a plusher, gushing Cubillo was certainly an enticing proposition. 

As it turned out, here the proverbial ‘leopard’ did not change its spots, at least not very much anyway.  Yes, this was a more outgoing Cubillo, relatively speaking.  The great ripeness of the vintage showed itself primarily in the bluer toned fruit that was the focal point of the wine.  There was more cassis and plum to the flavor spectrum, and perhaps a touch more evident spice with in that core of fruit.  But the leather, earth, balsamic, structure and pedigree were not vastly altered by a rather different harvest. 

Lopez being Lopez?  Absolutely, and all the better for it.  Had we not had the 2010, we might be inclined to say that this 2011 was something of a ‘best ever’ effort.  The bottom line is that this is a spectacular, structured delicious bottle of Rioja that deserves it own time in the spotlight.  Did this once again meet our expectations?  You bet!  Just not quite in the way we expected.  They still do things the old-fashioned way.  While Tempranillo is the dominant grape, Lopez still uses 10-15% Grenache in the mix with a little Graciano and Mazuelo.  All from estate vineyards, this wine saw three years in barrel (more like a Gran Reserva), was racked twice a year, after which it is bottled unfiltered. 

Once again, we were not alone in our praise.  As for the critics, the reviews are pretty darn close to those for the esteemed 2010, as they should be.  Luis Gutierrez from Wine Advocate put it this way, “It’s not easy to follow a 2010, but the 2011 Viña Cubillo Tinto Crianza improves with time in the glass, showing much better than expected. 2011 was a warmer year than the 2010, and the wine is a little riper but has great balance and very good harmony. It’s a noteworthy red for the price asked…92 points.” That’s one point under the 2010 and remember there are much bigger dogs in Lopez’ cellar that also get tasted

James Suckling’s score was the same as last year’s, “Cubillo spends three years in barrique and then in larger cask to await bottling, which happens two years before the expected release. This is very fresh on the nose with quite fresh, ripe blackberries and dark cherries, mahogany and dry, woody spices. The palate is very powerful, juicy and fresh with clear black cherries and plums in abundance. So fresh, fleshy and deep. The freshness is impressive. Long, shell-like tannins. Drink or hold…95 Points.”

As to Lopez de Heredia, there is little we need to say about this icon of traditional Spanish winemaking founded in 1892.  We have tasted virtually every level of wine they produce, including some historic older bottlings, and have never been disappointed even given pretty high expectations.  They do all the right things to create the wines they want to make and charge very attractive prices for the various levels offered.  Even in these crazy times, where there are mad deals at every turn, and tariffs trying to spoil some wines’ positioning in the marketplace, this wine still shines as a refined, well made, attractively-priced, high quality choice.

What a difference a year makes!  As the majority of you who read us regularly are aware, there are likely no greater fans of Rioja, with the possible exception of some of the Riojanos themselves, than we are.   One of the rewards of doing this kind of thing, for us, is to get paid for doing something we would do anyway.  Today’s exercise gives us the opportunity to talk about a few of our favorite things, specifically one of the revered houses located in Rioja’s ‘holy city’ (Haro), Lopez de Heredia, and one of the greatest vintages we have had the good fortune to experience from the region, 2010.

As to Lopez de Heredia, there is little we need to say about this icon of traditional Spanish winemaking founded in 1892.  We have tasted virtually every level of wine they produce, including some historic older bottlings, and have never been disappointed even given pretty high expectations.  They do all the right things to create the wines they want to make and charge very attractive prices for the various levels offered.  Granted prices have edged up a bit as the world continues to discover the wonders of Rioja, but they are still pretty sensational given the other choices of equal caliber.

As to 2010, it has been a while since we have talked about the vintage.  It is a sensational harvest with purity of fruit, ripe tannins, classic lines and fine structure.  They are wines that will age decades yet can deliver a glassful of joy next weekend.  The Riojanos have definitely been surprisingly low-keyed about the exceptional year, but the rest of the wine world has been unanimous in its praise. 

Simply put, releases in Rioja come sort of in waves.  For the most part crianzas come out first, followed by reservas and finally gran reservas, all titles very specifically defined by Spanish law based on barrel age and time in bottle. Each winery has their own schedule as to how the wines roll out, though they mostly follow the same level by level pattern we described.  Most of the 2010 crianzas and reservas are long gone and we have even moved through a number of the gran reservas.  But the top older houses run on a much slower cycle.  So we will be seeing a number of the ‘big dogs’ from this great vintage coming out over the next several months.  Hallelujah!

As for Lopez de Heredia, they are just beginning on their efforts in 2010 starting with the Lopez de Heredia Rioja Vina Cubillo Crianza 2010, their entry-level bottling.  This is where we must make the point again, one of the best houses in one of the best vintages.  We have faithfully followed Lopez for years and enjoyed virtually every vintage of Cubillo along the way.  This is the best version we have ever tasted by a good bit.  Made from 65% Tempranillo, 25% Garnacha, and the rest Mazuelo and Graciano all from estate vineyards, this saw three years in barrel (like a gran reserva) after which it is bottled unfiltered. 

Sure it has all of the accustomed sweet cherry and plum fruit, dusty/spicy classic Rioja accents and underpinning of vanilla and balsamic.  But there is more weight, power and richness in the midpalate, impeccable balance between the fruit and tannins and a remarkable but refined presence in the glass.  Over the course of several hours it evolved glacially, so packed and structured, yet it never ceased to impress.  We dare say it is better than some of their Tondonia and Bosconia bottlings we have had in the past, yet this surprising beverage can be had for under $25.  Amazing? You bet!

But that’s Rioja, that’s Lopez, and the greatness of 2010.

We were not alone in our praise.  Luis Gutierrez of robertparker.com wrote, “The 2010 Viña Cubillo Tinto Crianza is superb and shows great depth and nuance, with great freshness, and the red cherries are complemented by notes of blood oranges, nutmeg and other spices. It has a soft and harmonious palate, with great balance and very good freshness. – 93 Points!”

Given James Suckling’s usual brevity of comments, this is a virtual tome, “Cubillo is a very focused and quite crisp style of red that has spent three years in barrique and then in larger cask to wait for bottling, which happens two years before the expected release. The richness and depth of complex dried wood and spice here is seamlessly sewn into the dried red and dark cherries. The palate is pinned around a fresh-blackberry core that marries still sweet fruit to more savory style. Long and balanced. The tannins are fine yet assertive. It freshens into the finish nicely. Drink or hold…95 Points!”

Great house, great vintage, great price, this one checks all the boxes!  This is not to be missed.