THE MAESTRO OF MOSCATO

Yeah, we know, New Year’s resolutions. But everyone needs a little joy in their life, and there is nothing more joyous than an expressive Moscato with its engaging apple/yellow stone fruit, enticing spicy aromas, and lively spritz on the palate. Through the years we have sold truckloads of Moscato d’Asti, which is pretty remarkable really.  Not because of the wine itself, mind you.  It is one of those wines that appeals to people who aren’t very sophisticated in their wine tastes, but also to people that are pretty experienced as well who appreciate an artful version .  The thing is that ‘sophisticated’ wine drinkers would never admit they enjoyed a sweet, fizzy wine.  Our message is that there is nothing wrong with shameless pleasure.

That point made, just being Moscato is not enough.  All Moscatos are not created equal.  Some are a little too clipped and lean and can come off as a little soapy. Others come off as dumpy and too sugary because they lack buoyancy and verve.  The key is to have that tension between the juicy fruit and the wine’s acidity.  Very fresh, even boisterous fruit, sitting atop refined, lifting acidity, with the right touch of fizz to cleanse the palate but never steal the show, make these wines the ultimate crowd-pleasers.

As we think back, there have been many labels on our shelves over the years.  We are naturally curious sorts and seek out new and unique producers in every genre in our effort to find the very best stuff out there. Heck in a world that doesn’t admit that they like ‘sweet’ wine, we have at times carried (and sold) a dozen examples of Moscato d’Asti.  Where they are ‘on’, they are pretty irresistible.  But there were only a handful that were always on the shelf.  Saracco was always part of that inner circle.  Paolo Saracco is the Moscato whisperer, and his wines hit that perfect balance of fruit, acidity and sparkle, with extra points for clarity and purity, year in and year out.  He is a master of Moscato magic.

Ian d’Agata of Vinous Media has the same kind of passion for the subject as we do.  A small excerpt from his piece on Moscato that he wrote last year sets the tone, “Asti and Moscato d’Asti are two of Italy’s best-known and most delicious sparkling wines. Light in alcohol and strong on flavor, Asti and Moscato d’Asti are the ultimate party wines, but they can be remarkably nuanced and terroir-specific, too. At their best, the wines offer aromas and flavors of orange blossom, pear, peach, sage, vanilla and other sweet spices, and are an absolute joy to drink on their own, as aperitifs or with fruit and cream-based desserts.”

His review of the outstanding 2017 Saracco Moscato d’Asti ended with the phrase, “For my money, this estate is the DRC of Moscato d’Asti.”  That is pretty spectacular praise for any fermented beverage.  Clearly his review of that particular bottling took the Moscato adulation to new heights, with all of the glowing words and the 93 point score.  But we can’t really disagree.  We are fans and will openly admit we love a good Moscato (How could you not?) and Paolo has been one of the stars for a long time.

But with the new vintage, Vinous’ D’Agata upped his own ante, writing of the 2018,” Luminous pale straw-green with golden tinges. Captivating aromas of orange blossom, lemon verbena, vanilla, sage and ripe grapefruit nectar. Dense, juicy and suave, presenting a multilayered, complex set of flavors similar to the aromas. The finish is very long, resonating with a floral topnote and delightful vibrancy. Outstanding, concentrated, complex and very pure Moscato d’Asti…94 points.” All of that prose, a point higher score, and still a price under $13!

There are probably a lot of people that tuned out when they noted this is about a fruity, frizzante white wine.  Even more will be incensed that ‘big-time’ wine merchants would waste their time talking about such a wine to anyone other than ‘grandma’.  Move over grandma, we’re right there with you.  We have tasted the great wines of the world, and appreciate them for what they are.  But there is nothing wrong with enjoying some sheer, unadulterated pleasure in the form of a well made Moscato d’Asti. 

We have no problem professing our love for this intentionally pandering, joyous white.   Saracco’s effort is, as always, seriously delicious.  If you are already a fan of the genre, your path is clear.  If not, you need to have the experience.  Simply the Saracco Moscato d’Asti 2018 is one of the best versions from one of the best makers.  Fresh, lively, low in alcohol and captivating, if the ‘DRC of Moscato’ doesn’t put a smile on your face, too bad for you.  Joy in a bottle.

WHITE TABLECLOTH COSTIERES?

We have been following Michel Gassier’s work for over two decades, and he along with Grenache virtuoso Philippe Cambie, have established an enviable track record going back to the days when the wines were under the Chateau de Nages label (Michel’s home estate). Since 2006, the Nostre Pais reds have garnered 90-and-above scores all but twice, and on every vintage both great and small since 2010. As we have said many times about this wine that, at its normal ‘upper teens’ pricing, selling this kind of juice at this kind of price never gets old.

When it comes to wine, Michel Gassier ‘gets it’.  When we visited his estate in 2000, he was already experimenting with micro-oxygenation, pretty advanced for the times and the region.  Most folks don’t really have a feel for where Costieres de Nimes even is, but this guy has been A-game for a long time and, because he is working with a less than famous appellation, there is somewhat of a limit to what he can charge.  That makes it an ideal scenario for consumers. 

The Nostre Pais program has been like clockwork getting Wine Advocate scores predominantly between 91 and 93 points, even in difficult vintages.  The exercise here is about introducing his newest red which we believe is among his best ever.  We’ll also submit that Nostre Pais 2016 represents another level of refinement in his winemaking.  White tablecloth Costieres des Nimes?  Why not? Yet the wine is still at very palatable prices given the performance. 

We are very pleased with this newest Nostre Pais wines overall, and with this red we see an even more notable step up. Typically in this part of the world, whether deliberately or not, size does matter for the critics.  The region’s wines can sometimes be a bit direct and one dimensional and strictly rely on ‘punch’ to impress.  This Nostre Pais is a notch better than their very fine efforts from past vintages, but here expect more balance, seamlessness and elegance.  It plays well above its appellation and is more akin stylistically to a Chateauneuf from the cooler northern area.  Very classy and complex, this is not your father’s Costieres.

One again, ‘the critics agree’.  The Wine Advocate’s notes are, “A Grenache-led blend (55% Grenache Noir,25% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, 5% Carignan, and 5% Cinsault to be exact), the 2016 Costieres de Nimes Nostre Pais features compelling aromas of crushed stone, black olive and blueberry. It’s medium to full-bodied, with crunchy, fresh fruit and silky but firm tannins. It should drink well through 2025.”

Once again, the comments were quite consistent, with Jeb Dunnuck offering, “…Orange peel, black raspberries, exotic flowers, spice, and a limestone-like minerality all flow from this elegant, seamless, medium to full-bodied 2016 that has both freshness and richness. It’s a no-brainer purchase and will drink nicely for 5-6 years.” 

Both pundits gave the Michel Gassier Costieres De Nimes Rouge Nostre Pais 2016 91-point reviews, but we actually think this one deserves better.  Balance and refinement might have even put it the Nostre Pais at a little bit of a disadvantage in an arena that favors chunkier wines.  We like this one even better than the critics for its polished presentation.  It reaches another level stylistically and plays above its price point even more than its predecessors.  This is a ‘wine for all seasons’ and a definite must for value and versatility. Like the man said…a no brainer.

A LOOK AHEAD

As has been our tradition over the years, we like to kick off January by telling our loyal customers exactly how we see things moving forward.  As we have consistently said, we work for you.  But we consider that job being to find the best wines and the best deals out there.  The point of this piece is to let you know what to expect over the coming months which, in theory, might help you planning purchases over that time by going over important categories both here and upcoming.  As you all know, wine is like few other things in that, for the most part (with the few exceptions of things like solera sherries and ports and non-vintage Champagne) when something is gone, you just can’t make more. 

In the long view, for some categories your best choices aren’t necessarily ‘yet to come’.  They are already here and are beginning to disappear.  Take advantage of the 2016 Southern Rhones, 2016 Tuscans, 2015 and 2016 Bordeaux, and whatever scraps of 2015 red Burgundies and 2015 red Northern Rhones are still around.  They represent not only the best available player for the here and now, but for at least the next twelve months.   Those vintages all represent exceptionally successful harvests from a more historical perspective as well.

Things coming along that are of sweeping categorical importance are the 2015 Brunellos and 2016 Barolos.  These, again, represent distinctive harvests from a broader perspective, as in being among the best of their genre over the last decade or two.  There will be several exciting things coming out of both Argentina and Chile thanks to particularly successful vintages there in 2018 and 2019.  We also look forward to the continued arrival of more Rioja Gran Reservas from the great 2010 vintage plus early releases (Crianza and Reserva level stuff) from 2015 and 2016, excellent harvests in much of Spain. 

California has had a string of good vintages and there promises to be a number of noteworthy wines. For the most part, the only issue will be paying for them as vintners here still do not seem to believe their current price levels are unsustainable.  On the bright side, we expect to find a few more instances of surprising ‘domestic’ value bottlings as lots of higher quality juice will quietly ‘leak’ out the back door because fewer consumers are enamored with paying $50-60 and up for median quality bottlings.

It is going to be a year of exceptional individual efforts.   What we mean by that is that the coming year doesn’t boast the same number of compelling categories.  As an example, the 2017 southern Rhones are very good, and they would have been much more heralded in many other decades.  But the vintage ranks third behind 2010 and 2016 in recent times, and we would (and still will if given the opportunity) buy 2016s first.  In 2017, however, some regions enjoyed very successful harvests and the best examples will provide some ‘must have’ individual efforts that could hold their own in any company, even if the year itself couldn’t legitimately be called a ‘vintage of the century’.  The potential to excel is there but only for those who put forth an exceptional effort.

Also, as internet marketing changes the way wines are sold, selection will be one of the things that will suffer over the long run.  Buying has become much more targeted and the dynamic doesn’t encourage a lot of browsing.  Internet buyers, by and large, are much more specific in their searches, typically looking for an item of specific interest or responding to an item-targeted email.  People wander ‘off course’ considerably less.

It changes the game completely from the early days of the internet (the 90s) when most sales were still face-to-face.  It has swung greatly in the other direction.  The Orange store ran roughly 50-50 online versus in-store, the Santa Ana location is closer to 80% ‘etail’, though that may change as the new tasting program gets into full swing.  The bottom line, there are more great wines available than ever, and this year will be no different in that regard.  But, for the most part, they won’t come in ‘waves’ but rather one at a time. As always, we will be on top of it. More next time. Happy New Year.

CASA CASTILLO KEEPS ON ROLLING

We went through Jumilla two decades ago when we had an opportunity to visit Spain.  The few towns we went through looked like they could have been movie sets for the ‘spaghetti westerns’ of the 70s. The terrain reminds us of the Southern California desert (sans the Joshua trees). Yet from this harsh landscape came some pretty surprising wines, packed with character and weight without being over the top. The ripe, persistent fruit and modest prices made these wines immediately appealing.

Casa Castillo was one of the early stars of the region.  This was also a producer whose property looked a lot like the southern Rhône, with gnarly old vines sitting in a chalk soil covered in stones. Like most of the Jumilla producers we tasted then and have come to know since, this bodega (what the Spaniards call their wineries) had a gutsy, well-priced value wine that was impressive for its substance and it only went up from there.

Casa Castillo is still bringing drama even in a more crowded marketplace with substantially more options for the wine buyer. The drawing on the front label could have as easily been inspired by a site in Chateauneuf as here in this still relatively obscure region in southern Spain. While global warming generally represents negative things, the wines from this warm region show that Mourvedre likes the heat. When this late-ripening grape gets fully mature, it can take on a leading role in a ripe forward wine.

The Casa Castillo Las Gravas is something we have been fans of since those early days. The grape varieties here are the same as the southern Rhone but in different proportions with the Mourvedre making up 70% of the blend, with the balance divided equally between Grenache and Syrah. The track record here is pretty remarkable, with this 2015 version garnering a ’94’ from Wine Advocate as it has for 5 of the last six vintages (the 2011 got a mere ’92’)! The generosity of the 2015 vintage shows in this wine’s more rounded nature, though it packs plenty of punch as always.

Luis Gutierrez of Wine Advocate paints a pretty clear picture, ”
The 2015 Las Gravas is a classic Mediterranean blend of Monastrell with 15% each Garnacha and Syrah, with 15% alcohol after fermenting with part of full clusters and indigenous grapes and aging in used oak barrels for 19 months. 2015 is the last vintage that Las Gravas has some Syrah, as it adds some sweet fruit he wants to avoid. However, it shows fresh within the balsamic profile, with plenty of rosemary and thyme notes combined with floral undertones and the character of the esparto grass and tree bark that are textbook (aspects) of the variety.” A lot of wine for the fare as always…

TASTY STAGS LEAP RED FOR UNDER $25? WE GOT THAT

There are a couple of points to cover here.  First, while we have not been out protesting at college football games, we do recognize global warming is an issue.  We see it in wine.  Don’t worry, we aren’t going to go off on some long tirade about greenhouse gases.  Wine is supposed to be one of the fun things in life.  But changes in the weather will likely affect what you drink because warmer seasons will change the varietal mix, even what gets bottles as a varietal.

What are we getting at?  Grapes known as ‘late-ripening varietals’ are changing roles a bit as the growing seasons warm up.  We aren’t expecting to see Cabernet in the Mosel any time soon.  But a little more sunshine means Mourvedre will more consistently mature, and you’ll likely see more of it in Chateauneufs and Rhone blends.  In Bordeaux, many are increasing their percentages of Cabernet Franc in the vineyards.  Over a century ago, Carmenere was pretty much kicked out of Bordeaux because it didn’t mature very well.  Now it is thriving in the New World.  Our point is that the times they are a-changin’.  So it is, with perfectly straight faces, we’d like to introduce you to a potential new friend, Petit Verdot.  

If you have been around wine a while, you know that Petit Verdot is a bit player in Cabernet and Bordeaux blends in many wine regions.  You may have even had a varietal Petit Verdot at some point, typically dark and inky with firm tannins and a cool edge, maybe even a little bite to the fruit.  Most folks probably encountered it at some sort of a component tasting or bought a bottle to see what the stuff was about.  We’d suspect if you had the experience, you understood why it was mainly a blending varietal, filed it in your memory bank, and got on with your life. 

There have been exceptions.  We vividly recall the sensational Von Siebenthal Petit Verdot from Chile we sold a few years ago.  But by and large, most Petit Verdot bottlings are more novelty than anything else.  However the Avid Petit Verdot Napa Valley 2017 kind of changes everything!  A little more sunshine, a little more physiological ripeness, and voila, you have a Petit Verdot that can play to a broad audience.  You expect the deep purple color with aromas of ripe black fruit, plum, blackberry but the floral notes of violet and lavender come as a welcome surprise. There are also hints of smoked meat and leather, a hint of minerality, and none of the ‘edge’ typically associated with the grape. 

The wine itself is 100% Petit Verdot from the Stag’s Leap District that sees 50% American and 50% French oak for six months and additional time in the bottle.  This is a delicious mouthful without qualification, and it can play along with grilled meats as well as any Cabernet.  It’s actually better than most of the Cabs you could buy for this kind of price, and it’s doubtful you could find much of anything with a Stags Leap designation on it for this kind of tab.  Tasty, full-flavored, polished red?  Napa Valley bargain?  Petit Verdot breakthrough?  It’s all of these things.

So who are these guys?  The story here is a pretty short one since this is the first release under this label by Avid Wines, itself only founded in 2017.  But these are the same folks that brought us the eye-opening Acoya bargain blend sourced from Oakville and Yountville just a few weeks ago.  Winemaker Hossen Namdar started his journey with Domaine Chandon back in 1982 and later went on to the successful, occasionally surprising Stephen Vincent negociant lines.  Partner Bob Goyette himself was a founder of La Crema Vinera, a serious boutique in the 80s and 90s before financial issues set in and they were purchased by Jess Jackson.  Bob also did time at Chalk Hill and Benziger’s Imagery Series. 

These guys have definitely been around the block so to speak, and it shows in the fact that this label got off the ground and delivered some impressive juice right off the bat.  They aren’t big players yet.  There were only 750 cases of this surprising Petit Verdot made.   But it is clear this team, thus far anyway, has displayed quite an eye for quality and value.

Both that Acoya blend, and now this ‘next-gen’ Petit Verdot, are a little off the beaten path.   But then how often do you see anything from Stags Leap for under $25?!   Most important, it over-delivers in the glass.  That’s what matters in the end. 

A ‘RESOLUTION’ TO THE VALUE CABERNET ISSUE

The search for value Cabernet, specifically from Napa, is never-ending. But thankfully it is not hopeless, though we do have to work through a lot of juice to find a precious few gems. A while back (specifically January 2018) we introduced a new find (for us) that answered the prayers of California Cabernet drinkers.   It was clean, varietally true, showed the nuances of its Napa Valley heritage, and cost under $20.  A late Christmas miracle?   Apparently not as here we are with the latest edition of the Branham Estate Resolution Cabernet Napa Valley that hits the mark again.

Winex has been scouring the countryside for remarkable values for nearly four decades.  We have to wonder why we haven’t run across the wines of Gary Branham before.  The guy has been in the wine business, by his own account, since 1971, and started the first of his two estates by planting Branham Rockpile Vineyard in 1994.  In 1997, Branham purchased Obsidian Vineyard in Napa Valley, located near the Napa River near the Silverado Trail and Bale Lane.  This 10-acre estate was planted in 1986 and then 60% was replanted in 2005.

Gary has basically existed as a grower for most of the time but has made numerous small lots of a variety of different things under his own labels, Branham and Resolution, all of which seemed to be priced at very reasonable fares given their pedigrees.  Apparently, while Gary makes the majority of his livelihood as a grower, he likes to make wines that express their vineyards and that people can afford to drink.  What a concept!

We couldn’t have been more elated when we were presented this Cabernet.  In the value game, there are far too many one-hit wonders.  This version was every bit as good as the last one, and that’s a big compliment.  The Branham Estate Resolution Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2017 comes mainly from Gary’s Obsidian Vineyard with a portion from each of two other vineyards he works, one in Calistoga and one in St. Helena.  There are bits of Merlot and Petit Verdot in the mix as well.  This is all Napa Valley juice that sees 16 months in 100% used French oak to polish and soften the mid-palate and make something tender and delicious for current applications’   A year or two more in the bottle certainly won’t hurt either.

‘The Res’, as the winery refers to it, is full-bodied, rich, and balanced with aromas of dark berries, cassis, mocha and spice on the nose. You get the same profile on the palate with a touch of coffee in the mix as well.  For Cab drinkers, this is a fastball down the middle, delivering all you could ask for in terms of size, richness and nuance, as well as actual notes of Napa Valley terroir.  If we told you this was a $30-40 Cab, you would have no reason to question it since even that would be a pretty sensational deal for legit Napa Cabernet in today’s world.

Like its predecessor, perhaps the biggest plus for us is that it actually tastes like good Cabernet.  Simply put, this is the ‘resolution’ to all of our Napa value Cabernet needs… at least while it is around.   Once again it isn’t going to make a gigantic splash in the marketplace because only 700 cases were produced this time around.  So grab this needle-in-a-haystack/holy grail/unicorn Cabernet value while you can.  Last year’s version sold out in a flash and we suspect those folks will happily be back for the next round.  Wines like this don’t come around all that often, and they usually don’t hang around very long.

RIGHTEOUS RIOJA

Over the years A LOT of La Rioja Alta juice has passed through these doors.  But, for reasons we can’t really put our finger on, not a lot of this particular bottling.  Part of that is that it isn’t bottled every year. In this case, this is also the first Vina Arana (2012) to have a Gran Reserva designation, making definitely worth highlighting even as we have an epic version of the Vina Ardanza (2010) on the floor. 

As the winery tells it, “A vintage marked by drought, resulting in very heterogeneous grapes. Late September rains had a very positive effect on vine development, resulting in perfect ripening. The grapes arrived in perfect condition with a great balance between alcoholic strength and polyphenols, leading to wines of superb quality, with good polyphenolic structure and magnificent aromatic tipicity, key traits for making aged wines and determinant in our decision to make our first ever Viña Arana Gran Reserva.”  In simple terms, this Rioja rocks!

The star of the show is Tempranillo (95%) from 40-year-old vines from Las Cuevas, El Palo and Las Monjas vineyards in Rodezno complemented with 5% Graciano from the Montecillo estate in Fuenmayor.  This is everything you could ask from a Rioja in the classic sense.  There’s plenty of round, supple-yet-lifted and energetic plum and blackcurrant fruit with flecks of spice, tobacco, damp earth, and dried orange.  Impressive from start to finish, harmonious, and textbook Rioja, this is one where the bottle just doesn’t seem quite big enough.  Super deliciosa!

James Suckling clearly ‘got it’, commenting, “Brambleberries, licorice, dried blueberries, cedar, tobacco, smoke, vanilla, dried citrus and even a hint of grapefruit. The laser-sharp acidity evinces a real sense of purity, and the tannins are really edgy and structured. Full-bodied but very elegant and stylish. The finish goes on and on, thanks to the shimmering acidity. Beautiful now…95 points.”

BOURGOGNE CHARMER

The title Bourgogne doesn’t give one a lot of information.  Basically the wines can come from any legitimate terroir within the entire appellation of Burgundy and quality can vary greatly.  We surely like the pricing but value depends ultimately on what’s under the cork.  The back story here does a lot to set expectations. This firm was founded as a negocient back in 1865 and for a long period was a respected source of traditional Burgundy.

In 2002, it was acquired by Ann Colgin (yes, that Colgin) and husband Joe Wender. They brought in young winemaker David Croix, hooked up with savvy importer Becky Wassermen, revamped the cellars and replaced a lot of old wood, including the introduction of a wooden press for the red wines, open wooden vats for fermentation.  These days they use little or no new oak and little racking. The winemaking pulls from both traditional and modern methodology and the wines these days are much more supple and approachable.

As you might expect, this is quite the ‘little’ Bourgogne.  Certainly, the engaging 2017 vintage, ripe like 2015 but a little lighter on its feet, provided the kind of delectable fruit to play nicely into the program.  Sourced from Bourgogne parcels in Volnay (climats Long Bois, Mon Poulain), Gevrey-Chambertin and the Côte Chalonnaise (Moroges), all of which have clay-limestone soils, the Camille Giroud Bourgogne 2017 delivers a punchy, bright mouthful of strawberry and cherry fruit laced with spice and lighter framed minerality.  It sports deceptively power as Pinots go, and represents a classic expression of Burgundy for a surprisingly modest fare.  A must for any Pinot Noir lover, it drinks nicely now with a little bit of air (something of a theme with the better 2017s).

AND THEY KIWI, TOO

First Oregon, and now the world.  As we said in a piece not long ago about l’Envoye’s exciting new bottlings from Beaujolais, the folks at Maison L’Envoyé started with a lot of promise and only seem to be broadening their impact and their sphere of influence.  Given the players involved, that really wasn’t a big surprise.  Their name, Maison L’Envoye, loosely translated means ‘House of the Messenger’.   Their mission is a bit wordy, “Minimalist Burgundian winemaking fostered in the Côte d’Or crossing the Pacific to meet generational farming on the diverse and unique soils of Oregon’s Willamette Valley.”  Catchy, huh?  The ‘message’ itself seems to be much simpler…well conceived, well-made, well priced wines wherever they go.

 The ‘dream team’ continues to spread its wings to a number of far flung spots.  Mark Tarlov, who created Evening Land, raised a few eyebrows in the northwest when he purchased the vaunted Seven Springs Vineyard, left that enterprise in 2012 to create this project.  He partnered with none other than Louis-Michel Liger-Belair, Burgundy winemaker extraordinaire, producer of extremely rare bottlings from the Cote d’Or.  Rounding out the group is Max Marriott, certainly the least ‘famous’ of the group, but an Aussie with quite a resume including Louis-Michel in Burgundy as well as top producers in New Zealand, Tasmania, Germany and at Cristom (one of our personal favorites from Oregon). 

With this kind of winemaking pedigree, one might expect that the thrust would be yet another high end project, yet the wines are pretty consistently value priced.  Apparently with all that time to burn during winter in the Northern Hemisphere, they decided to explore a couple locations far to the south.  In both Tasmania and Central Otago, they work with a single vineyard, each family owned and farmed, that are outstanding examples of ‘purely expressed’, coole- climate Pinot Noir.  In areas where the wines can sometimes be overtly nervy, their efforts have a pleasing tender edge to the expressive ripe fruit. 

Our focus today is the Kiwi version from what we believe is the best spot for Pinot in New Zealand, Central Otago.  A little further inland, and a little bit warmer, here Pinot Noir expresses the distinctive character of New Zealand, but with a layer of ripe, glossy fruit up front to give it immediate appeal.  Yes the classic notes of tea, laurel, and savory spice are all part of the equation, but the insistent cherry fruit core pulls it all together and the tender edge to the mid-palate gives it a user-friendly feel that makes it a finer, if cooler-edged choice for current consumption.

It walks the line nicely at 13.9% alcohol level, clearly showing there is plenty of ripeness, but still coming in under that 14% ‘hard cap’ that is a point of contention for some wine drinkers.  Tasty, bright and light on its feet, this is a deft glassful of Pinot Noir.  While we are certainly happy to support our words with a 91 point score from Wine Advocate, we don’t necessarily agree with some of the specific statements in the review.

From erobertparker.com writer Joe Czerwinski, who is also the Rhone reviewer, “The 2017 Central Otago Pinot Noir comes out of the chute a bit green and stemmy (it’s 50% whole cluster). It clearly needs a year or two to settle down and integrate that element with the bold cherry fruit, but I have little doubt that those components will come together in time, resulting in a wine that’s substantially more attractive than it is currently. It’s medium to full-bodied, with ample ripeness, silky tannins and solid length on the finish, all of which augur well for the future. It’s made at Giant Steps in the Yarra Valley (Australia).”

We contend that whatever transformation Czerwinski expected to happen over time, must have happened already (even though the review is only from July, 2019).  We experienced none of the ‘kiwi green’ notes described in the first sentence, and found this wine fresh, engaging and pretty darn likeable out of the gate, or we wouldn’t be writing this piece.  At $24.98, it is a well performing, food friendly Pinot that should find a receptive audience in general and be particularly appealing to fans of the distinctive New Zealand genre.

Nicely done.

THE MAGIC OF ALSACE

If you saw the Beck-Hartweg Pinot Gris Cuvee de l’Ours 2007 just sitting on the shelf, you would likely pay it no mind. To be honest, looking at the vintage, it wouldn’t be our first grab either. Too old? Tired? We would have been wrong. One of the sad things we have noticed is that folks don’t care about Alsace as much as they used to. We sold remarkable amounts back in the 90s, and the area achieved stature thanks to a significant run of great juice from the likes of Olivier Humbrecht and the ladies at Domaine Weinbach. But, sadly, Alsace as a subject doesn’t get much attention in the wine press any more. It is particularly unfortunate at a time when the varied Asian and Asian influenced cuisines are widely appreciated on the food scene as these wines pair superbly (….getting hungry).

In any case, Beck-Hartweg is a fine producer who farms organically. We have been working with this domaine for a while and the presentation that day included several ‘older’ bottles that all showed surprisingly well. Do Alsace wines typically age well? The good ones certainly can and this one did!

It will be a little difficult to paint the picture since very few folks have the opportunity to experience a wine like this, thus making for no point of reference. But we’re going to give it our best shot secure in the knowledge, if it doesn’t work, there are lot of good Thai and Vietnamese places around here where we could do some expanded research ourselves. We won’t mind but, really, this is one of those rare opportunities.

In spite of the date, we just bought this. The 2007 vintage was very good in Alsace (one of the best since the turn of the century). The nose is an inviting melange of well meshed floral, white stone fruit, and quince nuances. All of that comes through on the palate accented with some yellow stone fruit and a delicate touch of minerality. The texture was remarkable, almost fat and unctuous but with everything sitting atop perfectly proportioned gentle acidity that did its job without getting in the way. The richness on the palate gave the impression of sweetness but the wine wasn’t actually sweet.

All in all, this was a captivating, soulful, and even a little bit cerebral effort. Only something from Alsace could have been exactly like this, the bottle age, those unique terroirs and deceptive viscosity making for a one-of-a-kind wine experience. An exciting wine and proof that Alsace should still be a ‘thing’.