Actually, the title may not be entirely ‘on point’. In all fairness, Claude Riffault is already a big deal to fans of Sancerre. The estate has been a consistent player producing captivating, true to type examples of the genre and getting big reviews. What he hasn’t quite done yet is get to the upper tier price levels that it currently takes to buy labels like Vatan, Alphonse Mellot, and Paul Cotat. However, there is little doubt that he can get there. It wasn’t that long ago that Mellot’s wines sold for these kinds of prices (mid-$20 as opposed to around twice that now). For now, these are still some of the best deals on elite quality Sancerre.
Riffault’s style focuses on purity, intense flavors, balance, and vineyard expression. His last 2013s and 2015s pulled down tremendous reviews from Wine Advocate (among others) and, having tasted those two vintages ourselves, we can say without hesitation that the 2016s are right at that upper performance level. Young Stephane Riffault has kicked up the quality here since taking the helm and has focused on more organic farming, an important point with regard to a genre like Sancerre where the wines rely on transparency.
The family owns 33 different (and quite small) plots on steep hillsides in four
different villages. Some are limestone while others are classic flint. Everything is hand harvested and vinified by plot. The results speak for themselves. The Claude Riffault Sancerre Les Boucauds 2016 comes from steep slopes of Terres Blanches soils – marls and clays over Kimmeridgian limestone. Half Steel-aged, half neutral barrels, this one is broad in the mouth with a rounded profile of ripe grapefruit, yellow stone fruits, bright flavors and a tantalizing zing of acidity to the long finish. The Boucauds has size and power on the attack but everything is perfectly proportioned. The last one (2015) was an Advocate 92, and this one is every bit of that.
The Claude Riffault Sancerre Les Chasseignes 2016 is a subtly-but-distinctively different take on the subject. From shallow limestone soil and subsoil containing overlapping stones, also done in half steel and half neutral oak, this one is very Sancerre but more layered and nuanced with the flavors leaning more mineral. A little less ‘pop’, a little more complexity, sort of the white wine version of the ‘iron fist in the velvet glove’. Last year’s effort was a glowing 93 from Advocate and this little gem is a bit better in our minds.
To us this estate is importer John David Headrick’s ‘greatest hit and this young man is putting out some serious juice. It’s only a matter of time before these command more serious d’argent (money). If you love Sancerre (we do!), these are a must.