It all started with an idea. The Perucci family was one of the dominant players in the region, producing large quantities of commercial wine. Costantino Perrucci was one of the most famous wine entrepreneurs of Puglia in the 1970s and 80s. But Gregory Perucci had other ideas. He wanted to prove that fine wine could be made out of the native varieties of the area. To that end, in 1996, he founded Accademia dei Racemi whose purpose was to give impetus to the research and revival of numerous indigenous grapes.
He and his young, enthusiastic staff worked tirelessly to research and improve vinification techniques and raise the wine bar for an area known as a place for hearty, cheap reds. He was credited with the elevation of Malvasia Nera, Fiano Minutolo, and Ottavianello as well as bringing back Sussumaniello from virtual extinction(it is now one of the most important grapes in Puglia). But it all started with Primativo de Manduria. The Acaddemia commited serious effort to studying the many facets of the area’s different soils. Discussions still happen regarding the relationship of Primitivo to California’s Zinfandel. Here in the black soils of Manduria in southern Puglia, Primitivo has risen to the status of a serious varietal as opposed to just an ingredient to fortify generic blends.
In 1998, Gregory decided to take the step of creating a new winery that featured these indigenous varietals made as premium wines. He was convinced of the potential for fine red wines here by virtue of excellent soils, a near-perfect climate, and the extra control that modern technology could now provide. He hired consultant winemaking wizard Roberto Cipresso and off they went to revitalize and reactivate abandoned Primitivo vineyards containing ‘bush’ vines ranging from 40 to over 90 years old.
But the ambitious Gregory had other plans as well. He has been a member of ZAP (Zinfandel Advocates and Producers) since 1997 nd the Felline estate offers not only their ‘Old World’ version of Primitivo but this ‘New World’ version created from what was playfully called the ‘Samsonite clones’ said to be from cuttings that Gregory obtained from Ridge icon Paul Draper and carried back in a suitcase.
The Felline Primitivo di Manduria Terra Nera Sinfarosa Zinfandel 2016 is a wine Geek’s ‘home run’. This wine says Zinfandel right on the label and shows the earth, minerality, and countryside tones verifying it’s Italian origins, but an unmistakable core of spicy, brambly dark berry fruit that is the soul of quality Zinfandel from the North Coast. The two factions harmonize beautifully and make for an intriguing interplay of profiles, on the one hand suggesting classic Italian nuance, on the other ripe, shameless, very varietal expression. Since it is warm down here, this wine has the amplitude that one expects from something labeled Zinfandel.
At 15% it approaches Amarone weight, but still has the freshness to bring it all together and finish with some lift. A six month sojourn in a combination of French and American oak rounds the edges and adds a hint of vanilla. Those ‘American’ vines have ‘learned the language’, yet still retain visible signs of their identity. This wine provides both an intellectual side to ponder and a spicy, hedonistic side to simply enjoy with hearty fare. The choice is yours.
Vinous Media’s Ian d’Agata seemed as excited with this distinctive bottling as we were writing, “Medium red-ruby. Beautifully nuanced scents and flavors of red cherry, raspberry, smoky minerality and flowers. Rich, suave and wonderfully broad on the palate, with a tactile, plush mouthfeel and a powerful but refined presence. A noteworthy edge of saline minerality carries through on the very long, refined finish. A knockout Primitivo. ..93 points.”
While a little more subdued numerically, Wine Spectator still had nice things to say, “An elegant, medium- to full-bodied red, with creamy tannins and a palate that ripples with black cherry coulis flavors and accents of ground anise, graphite, smoke and herb, lingering on the fresh finish. Drink now through 2024…90 points.”
It also played well with the home folks earning the prestigious Tre Bicchiere (Three Glasses, the highest award) from Gambero Rosso. At that point, all we could do is ‘add by subtraction’ by shaving roughly $10 off the retail price. At $16.98, this is a must for a variety of reasons. Only 25 cases, though.