Some of us are old enough to remember back in the beginning, when the first editions of this new (at the time) project from actor/real estate tycoon Fess Parker hit the market. Some of us even saw the original Disney versions of Davey Crockett and the Alamo on television. Somehow, given Fess’s history, those early labels with the small ‘coonskin’ cap were both familiar and comforting, and the wines from this emerging Santa Barbara/Santa Maria area source were solid go-to wines. The winery still uses Fess as the ‘front man’ on their website even though he has been gone since 2010. That’s the kind of unique persona on which the brand was founded.
Like a number of wineries, Fess Parker had their ups and downs over the years. They were always a viable choice, but perhaps never really emerged from the pack as far as reputation. They had the occasional ‘hit’ (we had a nice little run with their ‘Prisoner’ look-alike Big Easy a while back), but in general they were a solid, dependable, but arguably yeoman choice. Current winemaker Blair Fox has been in place since 2005 and the winery is still in family hands. What seems to be different, at least according to a set of recent releases that we were presented, is that the winery clearly has higher aspirations.
The pair of wines we are highlighting today, the Fess Parker Chardonnay Parker West 2018 and Fess Parker Pinot Fiddlestix 2018, are clearly a step up from anything we recall from this Foxen Canyon producer. Both show the classic lines of where they come from, as do all of the Parker wines. But there is more definition and delineation of flavor, more ‘pop’ if you will, that clearly make these more impressive, inspired bottlings that deserve another level of critical acclaim. Yeah the whole idea of ‘Frontier Red’ may be good for the tourists, but this is the kind of juice that will get them talked about in serious wine circles.
The Fess Parker Chardonnay Parker West 2018 is sourced from two specific blocks in the Parker West vineyard located in the Santa Rita Hills. The juice is entirely barrel fermented and sees nine months in French oak, 42% new. Simple put, the wine has another gear. There is a fresh, bright entry of slightly toasty apple, pear and citrus fruit that is vigorous and broad but sits high on the palate, and seems to have more left to push through to the finish.
The Antoino Galloni review and score will turn a few heads, “The 2018 Chardonnay Parker West is laced with the essence of crushed rocks, lemon peel, white flowers and white pepper. This is an especially taut style, but there is also plenty of fruit depth to keep things in balance. This is such a gorgeous wine and also a terrific example of the style that comes so natural on the western edge of the Sta. Rita Hills…95 points.”
The Fiddlestix Vineyard has a reputation all its own thanks to other bottlings particularly from Kathy Joseph’s Fiddlehead Cellars. This stylish Fess Parker Pinot Noir Fiddlestix Vineyard 2017 bottling hits all the high notes yet has a juicy, forward demeanor that makes for a fine hedonistic choice as well. Like the Chardonnay, this comes from specific blocks of the vineyard and sees 17 months in 100% French oak (35% new), which it seems to absorb with no issues.
Again the Galloni notes and score will raise a few eyebrows for this winery, “The 2017 Pinot Noir Fiddlestix Vineyard is a bold, powerful wine, with all of the raw energy that is so typical of this site. Bright red fruit, flowers, game and licorice are all pushed forward. The Fiddlestix is a big, brooding Pinot, but it is also very nicely balanced, with tons of sheer allure, something that young Fiddlestix Pinots don’t always offer….93 points.” Our comment as we were tasting was that this was downright user-friendly for this part of ‘the Hills’ and the fruit had much more of a tender edge than we typically expect from here.
Epiphany Grenache in four-pack cans notwithstanding (yes they make that, too), it is clear from these wines, and a new series of reds sourced from Napa called Addendum, that the folks at Fess Parker are making every effort to raise their game. This Pinot and Chardonnay aren’t the first efforts in their respective series, but they both qualify as ‘best yet’ in their respective series and should cause folks to look in on what they’re doing more often.