Yeah, we know. The first question most people will ask is how does a Txakoli get that kind of review? There are many ways to approach the question, but the easiest one is talking about relativity. Some reviewers approach tasting with the idea of making comparisons within the genre, whereas others look at a broader, though not necessarily more correct one. Clearly perspective is necessary. You aren’t comparing a Spanish Txakoli to Haut Brion Blanc, you are comparing it to other Txakolis. If it’s head of the class, so be it.
Perhaps more to the point, the goal of tasting is to find the best options out there without having some kind of agenda. That being the case, then the ‘score’ here is justified because this is arguably the best Txakoli we’ve ever had. Most Txakolis are crisp, clean, and slightly fizzy, something to wash down food like a Basque version of Portugal’s Vinho Verde. But what’s wrong with aspiring to more? That seems to be the case with Hiruzta Txakolina 2020, be it by virtue of this estate’s efforts or a unique set of circumstances in the 2020 vintage. It’s probably some of both.
In their own words, “Hiruzta is a Txakoli wine that combines classicism and modernity. It is made from the Hondarrabi Zuri grape, grown in the winery’s own vineyards in Hondarribia and fermented at its state-of-the-art facility in Getariako Txakolina.” The winery’s 17-hectare vineyard surrounds the winery itself, at the foothills of Jaizkibel Mountain. It is oriented towards the mid-day sun which protects it from the wind and damp of the nearby Cantabrian Sea. It’s about sunshine mediated by the sea, and 2020 was a particularly dry vintage that allowed the grapes get fully ripe.
Yes, you have the proper acidity, and that expected little kick of fizz. It would serve you fine in some pintxos bar crawl. But there’s so much more. This one also has fruit, weight, and character which sets it apart from most Txakolis out there. Hiruzta harvests by hand in small crates, destems, and crushes via a soft pressing. The juice is then stored at a low temperature to retain some of the natural carbonation. In the winery’s notes, they speak of 2020 as a very successful vintage. This 2020 is balanced and fresh as it should be. Yet there is texture to the pear, apple, tropical and citrus fruit. It is Txakoli in every sense of the word, but a more complete wine in many ways.
Decanter Magazine found a lot to like here, “Bright lemon peel and grapefruit aromas with some underlying tropical fruits. Light prickle on the palate with mid-palate weight and texture; deftly poised with palate-whetting acidity. Long, zesty, elegant, crunchy and fine-boned, this has delightful charm. Shellfish anyone?… 97 Points.”
Yes, that 97 point score will raise an eyebrow or two. But it’s about excelling in the Txakoli category, not as a direct comparison to some boutique, limited release Chardonnay. Hiruzta Txakolina 2020 deserves the recognition because it’s…really…good… Txakoli. It rises above the category, and will stylistically appeal to a broader audience because it is a more complete wine, yet still costs under $20 ($17.98).