Tag: basque

MORE THAN JUST TXAKOLI

Not many folks around these parts even knew what Txakoli, the crisp white from the Basque country of Spain, even was a quarter century ago. But it has become something serious wine stores now need to have on hand. Most Txakolis are pretty utilitarian, crisp, lively, often a little fizzy foils for a wide variety of lighter finger foods or dishes that call for a white with some verve. Most of the time it is about the genre itself, rather than the ‘brand’.

While it isn’t quite ‘any Txakoli will do’, the stylistic range is fairly narrow. While we occasionally find one that stands out in a crowd (like the Hiruzta 2020 we sold a while back), usually its more about function in this arena. In that vein, the Txomin Etxaniz Blanco Txakolí de Getaria has been a staple for a couple of decades. Exemplary of the region, consistent year in and year out, we have always considered them a best of breed kind of choice to build around.

The other day a supplier rolled through here with a variety of samples from his Spanish book, and the Txomin Etxaniz Blanco Txakolí de Getaria 2020 was among the things in the bag. We already had the wine on the shelf and recall liking it a lot the first time around. But it had been some time since we had tried it. Honestly, we had forgotten just how good this was! It’s a wine that possesses plenty of the characteristics that one expects of a Txakoli. But it also has palate volume and fruit, something that is pretty rare in anything but the very best examples of the breed.

Txakolis these days do get some attention from the media because Spanish whites have become more topical, and usually the polite 89 or 90 point score. But this version of Txomin Etxaniz got dueling 92s from Decanter Magazine and Vinous. The Decanter review from nearly a year ago will give you a feel, “Made in the classic style, this blend of the two main Txakoli grapes – 85% Hondarrabi Zuri, 15% Hondarrabi Beltza – is fresh and lean with a spiky acidity punctuated by green apples, lime and a fizz of sherbet lemons. There’s a delightful tingle of petillance which sets it off nicely and introduces a slight mineral note on the finish. It cries out for oysters…92 points.”

We’d update that to say that the fizz factor is less these days, but the fruit component in gentler, more ample, and delicious. We picked up a little quince and maybe a tinge of ginger in the mix. We don’t have a Txakoli vintage chart handy but we have now had two epic, very memorable examples from the 2020 vintage. It’s not only exceptional Txakoli, it’s good enough to be considered outside its category just as a delicious, versatile white wine. As for the ‘oysters’ part, that’s still true.

97 POINT TXAKOLI? WHY NOT?

Yeah, we know.  The first question most people will ask is how does a Txakoli get that kind of review?  There are many ways to approach the question, but the easiest one is talking about relativity.  Some reviewers approach tasting with the idea of making comparisons within the genre, whereas others look at a broader, though not necessarily more correct one.  Clearly perspective is necessary.  You aren’t comparing a Spanish Txakoli to Haut Brion Blanc, you are comparing it to other Txakolis.  If it’s head of the class, so be it.

Perhaps more to the point, the goal of tasting is to find the best options out there without having some kind of agenda.  That being the case, then the ‘score’ here is justified because this is arguably the best Txakoli we’ve ever had.  Most Txakolis are crisp, clean, and slightly fizzy, something to wash down food like a Basque version of Portugal’s Vinho Verde.  But what’s wrong with aspiring to more?  That seems to be the case with Hiruzta Txakolina 2020, be it by virtue of this estate’s efforts or a unique set of circumstances in the 2020 vintage.  It’s probably some of both.

In their own words, “Hiruzta is a Txakoli wine that combines classicism and modernity. It is made from the Hondarrabi Zuri grape, grown in the winery’s own vineyards in Hondarribia and fermented at its state-of-the-art facility in Getariako Txakolina.”  The winery’s 17-hectare vineyard surrounds the winery itself, at the foothills of Jaizkibel Mountain. It is oriented towards the mid-day sun which protects it from the wind and damp of the nearby Cantabrian Sea.  It’s about sunshine mediated by the sea, and 2020 was a particularly dry vintage that allowed the grapes get fully ripe.

Yes, you have the proper acidity, and that expected little kick of fizz.  It would serve you fine in some pintxos bar crawl. But there’s so much more. This one also has fruit, weight, and character which sets it apart from most Txakolis out there.  Hiruzta harvests by hand in small crates, destems, and crushes via a soft pressing.  The juice is then stored at a low temperature to retain some of the natural carbonation.   In the winery’s notes, they speak of 2020 as a very successful vintage.  This 2020 is balanced and fresh as it should be.  Yet there is texture to the pear, apple, tropical and citrus fruit.  It is Txakoli in every sense of the word, but a more complete wine in many ways.

Decanter Magazine found a lot to like here, “Bright lemon peel and grapefruit aromas with some underlying tropical fruits. Light prickle on the palate with mid-palate weight and texture; deftly poised with palate-whetting acidity. Long, zesty, elegant, crunchy and fine-boned, this has delightful charm. Shellfish anyone?… 97 Points.”

Yes, that 97 point score will raise an eyebrow or two.  But it’s about excelling in the Txakoli category, not as a direct comparison to some boutique, limited release Chardonnay.  Hiruzta Txakolina 2020 deserves the recognition because it’s…really…good… Txakoli.  It rises above the category, and will stylistically appeal to a broader audience because it is a more complete wine, yet still costs under $20 ($17.98).