Tag: goldschmidt

TASTY CABERNET BUY HIDING IN PLAIN SIGHT

One of the important things a wine merchant can do is show the way. A number of folks are constantly looking for delicious deals on Cabernet. But where do they have to look? At some chain operation that’s going to tell you that whatever they have is the best deal anywhere? At the wine media where by the time you get by all of the 92-point $200 boutique Cabernets your eyes are tired? It’s tough, we know. So it’s our due diligence to mention things that should be on every Cab drinkers radar so you can’t say we didn’t tell you. The Katherine Goldschmidt Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley Stonemason Hill 2021, while a little long, is definitely a must.

Kiwi Nick Golgschmidt has been around for a long time and we have sent out a few email offers on some of his exceptional value bottlings. Starting back in 1991 as the assistant winemaker at then ‘big deal’ Simi winery, he has been and still is involved in projects all over the place (California, New Zealand, Argentina, Australia, and Spain). His own family brand is also a priority.

As the winery explains about this site, “Made in tandem by Nick and his middle daughter, Katherine, this very popular Cabernet Sauvignon has become a close family tradition over the years. The 2018 vintage marked a transition to an incredible new vineyard called Stonemason Hill. Located in Alexander Valley, this aptly-named site has large rocks leading up to a stone-walled terrace… This vineyard’s beautiful gravel loam soil with mature vines—many over thirty years old (rather rare in California thanks to phylloxera)—is ideally suited for the discerning tasters looking for an elegant drop with loads of personality and style.”

This has all of that personality with a pleasing core of black cherry, other dark fruits, and notes of spice, toffee, and a little underlying, balancing savory. It’s a straight forward, delicious mouthful of Cab with round, broad, honest fruit and pure Cabernet flavors. This is the wine all Cabernet fans should be looking for as it is everything you could ask and $21.98. How much delicious, honest Cabernet is out there for that kind of fare? Not much.

The Katherine Goldschmidt Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley Stonemason Hill 202 is the answer to a lot of Cabernet questions. Yet if we don’t mention stuff like this, who will? Most of the high profile writers aren’t going to even bother with a wine like this, even though it is a personality filled, single-vineyard bottling. It’s not a ‘hot’ producer (though it’s an accomplished one), and Alexander Valley isn’t a glamor locale (except for maybe Silver Oak). If they do review it, it is upper 80s or low 90s at best because you have to save the big scores for the big boys. Now if you spend your time with a bunch of folks that have oil wells or tech companies, this might not have the cache for you. But if you like a really good bottle of Cabernet that doesn’t cost a fortune, this is that!

Here are a couple of reviews that tell the story. From James Suckling, “Coffee candies, black cherries, olives and blackberries. Quite rich and obvious, with a degree of sweetness in the full-bodied palate. Chewy, fine-grained structure. Flattering and easy to understand. Drink in 2023…90 points.”

And from Wne Enthusaist, “Tasty cocoa, blueberry and maple flavors ride a velvety texture of smooth tannins in this full-bodied, rich and lavishly oaked wine. Cedar, vanilla, clove and slight wood-char accents give it a spicy, soft allure…91 points.”

You don’t drink ‘cache’ or ‘numbers’ and this very likeable Cab, from an excellent vintage, hits all the notes for not a lot of money. That is the point.

‘THROWBACK’ ZIN VALUE

Nick Goldschmidt has traveled the wine world. This New-Zealand born winemaker has worked in New Zealand, Australia, and South America, eventually landing in California where he settled in Healdsberg back in 1990. He became the assistant, and then chief winemaker at Simi back in the early 1990s back when Simi was still a sought after label. He is still involved in a number of bigger projects with large wineries but also has his own stable of releases, many of which are dedicated to his family, wife Yolyn and five children who are all occasionally getting some ‘hands on’ training in the vineyards .  He still makes wine in New Zealand as well under his Forefathers label.  Guess you need something to do when it is winter here. 

Yeah, Nick’s a busy guy and a proven performer. Has he made that consummate 100 case, ‘98 point’ red that seems to be what gets a winemaker’s name up in lights?  No, but our rebuttal to that is that it takes more skill to make lots of good wine on a consistent basis than to make a couple of barrels of something special.  An important thing about Nick’s own wines is that he never seems to forget that most people don’t necessarily want to plunk down $60, $100, or more, every time they want a bottle of wine.  This isn’t some guy who landed in a G6 and proclaimed he was going to be the next Harlan. This is a guy who came up through the ranks based on talent and makes wines that have typically been well-priced, outgoing, and easy-to-like stylistically. 

We have sold a number of Goldschmidt wines over the years, mostly Cabernets Nick has sourced from unique vineyard spots and sold at very reasonable fares.  It’s great when someone like that gets a shot at exceptional fruit and doesn’t let his ego get in the way when he is figuring out how to price it.  Today’s offer however is with a varietal that we don’t necessarily associate with Goldschmidt, Zinfandel, from fruit that is sourced from vines planted in 1983 in his own Railway Vineyards in the Alexander Valley.  Beyond that, it is the usual Goldschmidt story.  You’ve got your plump, pure, honest fruit crafted in a round, likeable style, and you’ve got a really attractive price. 

This is a little bit of a different spin than we are used with all of the other Goldschmidt wines we have sold in the past.  Far too often Nick’s wines end up being ‘scored’ in the no-man’s-land of the upper 80s, which is fine for us since we like to sell the wines based on their value and appeal.  However, this Zinfandel actually got noticed by the media.  It is one of only three times a Goldschmidt wine has gotten a 92 from Wine Spectator.  The other two, specialty Cabernets, sold for over $60.  The Goldschmidt Zinfandel Fidelity Nick Goldschmidt Railyard Alexander Valley 2018 sells for less than $20!  It also got a Spectator ‘smart buy’ because, duh, it is!

The description of this tasty Zin itself in the Wine Spectator is succinct but accurate, “ Supple and sleek, with polished, multilayered fruit, showing raspberry and toasty spice flavors that glide on the lasting finish…92 points.”  The description is pretty much the character of every Goldschmidt wine we have ever presented.  Ripe, round, engaging, varietal, user-friendly and hedonistic, pretty much a pleasure to consume, is the Goldschmidt style.  His wines may not always get the attention of the critics, but they more than deliver in the glass where it counts. 

We decided to do a little query by asking how many Zins got 92 points or better from Wine Spectator so far this year.  The answer was 37, with many past $40 and a couple over $60.  When we put in a price ceiling of $30, only three remained.  Under $20, there was but one…this one.  Talk about exclusive company!  This kind of recognition could be a dangerous precedent.  We’re glad to see Nick get some love.  But if he is no longer under the radar, there’s a risk that future prices will escalate, or availability will be sorely compromised.  Zin lovers, or fans of affable reds in general, should buy up this juicy value while they can.