We know we have been a little harsh on the whole German trocken (dry Riesling) phenomenon. Some might have said, “ these guys say they love Riesling, what’s their problem”. Well, there are a couple of things. One is execution. Far too many are lean and skeletal as trocken wines. The fruity examples with a little residual sugar to counterbalance blazing acidity is a true joy to us. There’s nothing quite like a good traditional kabinett or spatlese anywhere in the wine world.
The other point is ‘why’? Why muck with a good thing? Plus, it has been done. The Australians and Austrians have been making compelling dry Riesling for a long time. There doesn’t seem to be a good reason to have another, less successful choice other than it’s German. But we are not here to bag on the Geremans (they are probably cranky enough after the 2018 World Cup). Rather we are here to praise some of the outstanding dry Rieslings that we do endorse.
We’ve been acquainted with the wines of Frankland estate for probably to decades. The story is always a bit puzzling. What possessed this family to head on out to one of the more remote parts of southwestern Australia to plant grapes is baffling. To take a chance on a varietal like Riesling that doesn’t perform just anywhere was a leap of faith. But they have become one of the icon Riesling producers in Oz and have developed a unique and flattering style. Delicate apple and pear, some pleasing citrus and floral notes, with a nice underpinning of a delicate earthy minerality, this is tender and fresh and lifted without being at all edgy.
The 2017 vintage in Australia is quite successful (a cracker!) and 2017 Frankland Estate Riesling is a beautifully composed expression of pristine fruit. Made from various parcels from the estate including some of the original vines from 1988 and a 2006 planting on an ‘ironstone’ ridge, it is a subtle, layered, mouth-watering, ‘pretty’ example of the genre from a very special, if really isolated place.
We aren’t sure how much of a ‘Riesling guy’ Advocate’s Joe Czerwinski, but he seemed to like this one as well, “Scents of lime blossom and orange sherbet practically erupt from the glass. The exuberant 2017 Riesling is medium-bodied with slightly rounded edges and hints at red berries to go along with all of the expected citrus and green apple notes. It’s approachable now but should continue to drink well for a decade or more… 91 Points!” This is how you trocken.