chianti

STRIKING, LATE BREAKING 2016 CHIANTI RISERVA

We haven’t had the occasion to talk a lot about Tuscan 2016s very much of late. Sadly, the bulk of them have pretty much passed through the market. But we aren’t so far along that the possibility of something popping up has totally passed. That said, a brief reminder that we think 2016 in Tuscany is one of, if not the best vintage we have experienced in our four decades of doing this.

The Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico Riserva I Colli 2016 isn’t a label we are intimately familiar with though we have carried a few examples over the years. But we don’t remember anything quite like this one. This is definitely the ‘home run’ version, a Chianti with driving, ample, outgoing fruit, and an array of gorgeous notes of sour cherry, earth, wild herbs, chocolate, and spice. This is a Chianti that is big on flavor but still poised to support food with a measured underpinning of acidity that pushes the wine across the palate.

This shows everything that gets us ranting about 2016, great fruit, superb balance, great presence on the palate, and the unmistakable impression that there are a couple of gears the wine has yet to reveal. It’s all here and, in truth, this was one of the easier calls because there was plenty going on right up front.

While they may not be among the best known names in Chianti in the American market, they have certainly put in their time. Located just outside Siena, the family claims the “I Colli estate represents the history and soul of 23 generations of the Bindi Sergardi family, which built this hamlet at the end of the 1400s.”

They certainly got dealt a winning hand in 2016, and they have the critical acclaim to prove it. From WIne Spectator, “This is bright and linear in profile, displaying cherry, strawberry, bitter almond, earth, iron and tobacco flavors. Balanced and taut, lingering with a mix of fruit, mineral and savory elements. Best from 2022 through 2043…93 points.”

This wine impressed us right out of the gate and we are probably more on the level of enthusiasm of James Suckling, who wrote, “Aromas of raspberries, sour cherries, dates, chocolate, dried herbs and five spice. Medium- to full-bodied with fine tannins and a creamy, velvety texture. Layered and balanced with a caressing feel. Long, spicy and savory finish. Drink now or hold…95 points.“

An exceptional effort in a traditional style from a historic harvest, an exciting find this late in the game.

DONNA LAURA CHIANTI RISERVA ALTEO 2018

We’ve done our part over the years to raise the image of Chianti from the straw fiasco bottles to a wine that should be taken seriously, and a number of high-performing producers have given us the vinous tools to make that point. But a number of scenarios call for a Chianti to simply be that tasty, honest bottle to grab to foil a plate of pasta, risotto, or any one of a number of red wine dishes. It’s important to know who the players are in an important wine area like Chianti. But it is equally important to find quality options for that go-to, guilt-free, ‘house pour’ category as well. It just isn’t as easy to find viable value options that live up to our standards. Donna Laura Chianti Riserva Alteo 2018 is one that does.

The back story here is that the current proprietress of Tolaini, Lia Tolaini Banville, was greatly inspired by her aunt, Laura. The story goes that Banville, on a summer holiday traveling from her birthplace in Canada to her ancestral home outside the city of Lucca at the age of six, Lia met her Aunt Laura for the first time who would become a driving force in her life.

So why are we talking about Lia Totaini-Banville, owner of Banville importing and quality oriented Tolaini estate that produces a number of wines including highly reviewed Legit Cabernet? Well the name Donna Laura is a tribute to her aunt, but this Chianti is produced by Lia. As they tell it, “In 2004 an opportunity arose to write a new chapter in the story, this time at Tolaini Winery in Castelnuovo Berardenga with the production of Lia’s own wine label Donna Laura. A loving tribute to the woman whose lessons of family, tradition and honor would share double billing with Lia’s own heritage…”

We had no idea about the connection at the time we tasted it, but that is a pretty significant demonstration of how the work of quality producers somehow shines through. The Sangiovese grapes for the Alteo (a mashup of the names of Lia’s sons Alessandro and Matteo) are selected in Donna Laura’s vineyards in Castelnuovo Berardenga, one of Chianti’s ‘sweet spots’. They are carefully destemmed in the winery and put immediately into steel vats without crushing. The must is kept in contact with the skins for about 20 days with pumping over every 10 hours and 1 delestage a week.

Chiantis in this price range often suffer from being acidic or undernourished. This is neither, with a lovely, cohesive roundness from front to back to the currant and classic cherry fruit laced with floral notes and a touch of earth. It is a perfect demonstration why you seek little wines made by very conscientious producers as opposed to someone putting together a ‘blend’ to hit a ‘price point’. It’s all about intent. We’ll take it easy on the adjectives but it fulfills its mission nicely, a pleasing, easy drinking, soulful, surprisingly successful ‘riserva’ offering of Chianti from top terroir at a very modest ($11.98) price. You don’t have to tell anyone it cost so little.

2019: CHIANTIS TO LOVE

This is less about any individual Chiantis as much as to give our impressions of the latest vintage of Chiantis starting to hit the market. Please note that we have offered up a couple of early arrivals that we think prove our point below. Also, not long after we proclaimed 2016 one of the best vintages ever in Tuscany, here we are touting a vintage again. So, for the record, we are not redacting what we said about 2016. It is still the best vintage we have tasted. But as we move forward, 2019 is going to make a LOT of friends just based on their sheer sexiness.

The 2016s still stand alone for their power, grace, balance and typicite. But the 2019s are not that far behind in terms of performance and are some of the lustiest, creamiest examples of the genre we can recall. These take people- pleasing to a new level with their overt roundness, silky texture, and fruit-driven mid-palate. Kinder, gentler Chianti? It works. Here are a couple of examples from two meticulous producers.

The Monteraponi Chianti Classico 2019 is a relatively new favorite from Radda in Chianti from a high altitude (from 400-500 meters above sea level). The wines are carefully made in a very natural way, which is to say no added yeast, nutrients, or malolactic bacteria are used, and fermentation takes place in cement tanks, followed by long macerations (even the Chianti Classico is kept on the skins for at least 25 days). The wines are aged in large oak only, and they are not fined or filtered. This Classico, a blend of 95% Sangiovese and 5% Canaiolo, expresses the outgoing spice and minerality we have come to expect from this respected source, but the urgent cherry fruit component is a much less tightly wound and more relaxed and engaging. This producer is a consistent star but this friendlier version will reach a broader audience.

We have been fans of Castellare for decades and the Castellare Di Castellina Chianti Classico 2019 is a beauty. Their Chiantis are always clean, precise and delicious, but this one has a wealth of forward dark red leaning towards black fruit and something of a slippery direction. It doesn’t happen often but this Chianti, while it will play its usual role as an augment to food, can be consumed with gusto all by itself thanks to its gentle palate, plush fruit, and well tucked in acidity.

Based on purity, quality and likability, we’d normally predict great reviews for these. But there is concern that a reviewer who is very strict in their reference points might be taken aback by these wines’ more New World demeanor. Do they fit the mold by comparison to all Chiantis that have come before? Maybe not because they are juicier and more outgoing than most examples we can think of. But that is by no means a problem. Are they delcious? Absolutely, and that is the point.

A LATE ARRIVING 2016: LE FONTI CHIANTI CLASSICO

We have often said that we are going to pursue the 2016 Tuscans until we can’t find them any more. Le Fonti is a brand new face for us…on this side of the ocean. We had a positive impression of the house based on tasting the wine at Consorzio tastings at Vinitaly, probably one of the more difficult places to precisely assess as wine. Why is it tough to get a bead on a wine at a wine show? Simply, it’s the volume. You taste so many wines so quickly to make the best of your limited time there that it’s not always easy to recall the nuances and minutia.

In any case, we liked the Le Fonti Chianti Classico 2016 (the first time we have seen it here) one on one on this side of the ocean as well. Located between Siena and Florence, the winery sits in the heart of Chianti country in Panzano. At this site, nearly 1500 feet above sea level, this 15 hectare estate consists of 9 hectares of vineyards and the rest olive trees. The current owners, the Schimtt-Vitali family, took over the estate in 1994 and have replanted the vineyards since that time with the appropriate clones and rootstock. The vineyard and olive grove are all certified organic and they take meticulous care of their holdings.

The vines are planted to 85% Sangiovese and the rest more international varietals, Cabernet and Merlot. Manuel harvest is the practice here and bleed off 10-15% of the juice to make a rose, concentrating the remaining must. The final wine, predominantly Sangiovese with a small percentage of Cabernet and Merlot are put into French oak for 12 months and another 6 months in bottle before release

This version definitely shows a more modern bent stylistically, with a nice pop of dark cherry fruit right up from and som authority to the midpalate. Plenty of fresh fruit here with the more classic notes of earth and spice, but a rounder, fresher disposition in the glass and an outgoing immediacy to the style. It has all of the ‘pop’ of the 2016s, the lifted fruit and well infused, ripe tannins, but a distinct juicy, some might say ‘modern component that will appeal to a broader audience.

Enthusiastic comments from Vinous’ Antonio Galloni tell a similarstory, “Le Fonti’s 2016 Chianti Classico is fresh, aromatically expressive and a plain delight to taste. This is an especially mid-weight, gracious style that is typical of this sector of Panzano. Spice, licorice, leather, dried herb and menthol add shades of nuance to a Chianti Classico that speaks to finesse, nuance and the natural freshness of Sangiovese in this vintage more than anything else…92 points.”

Another exciting arrival from a very special vintage, enjoy and accumulate them while you can.

A VERY SPECIAL CHIANTI

We have come through a very special period in Tuscany in general and Chianti in particular. But we are still on the lookout for more examples of 2016, arguably the best and most complete vintage we can recall in all of our years doing this. We are thrilled to run across regular Chianti bottlings from the vintage but, for the most part, the market has absorbed those wines. There should still be occasional appearances from Riserva and Gran Selezione bottlings from this exceptional vintage that should prove to be memorable high points.

We had great expectations, given what we have tasted from 2016, when a purveyor pulled one of the late arriving 2016 Chiantis out of their bags and the Caparsa Chianti Classico Riserva Caparsino 2016 did not disappoint. In fact it was arguably one of the most impressive examples of the vintage we have tasted thus far. Since we don’t have a long experience with this producer (or any prior to 2016), we can’t really say with any authority if how much of this wine is courtesy of the vintage, or if Paolo Cianferoni is some sort of winemaking genius. In any case, even among the sensational array of outstanding Chiantis we have tasted from 2016, this one is special.

Located in Radda in Chianti, there is a distinct mineral undertone that makes a first impression here and is part of the whole experience front to back. The flavors and profile are definitely Tuscan, the insistent stony underpinnings definitely something we associate with Radda (a relatively small designation), but the density and richness of the fruit component and mid-palate elevate this wine to another level. Given the performance here, we couldn’t even balk at the price, certainly at the upper end of the riserva classification though relatively modest by comparison to many of the Gran Selezione bottlings.

In the notes from the winery, this wine is 100% Sangiovese (hand harvested, of course) from an elevated site (about 1450 feet) that is spontaneously fermented with natural yeasts and then sees one year in large barrels. The color is impressively dark for Sangiovese, the aromas show powerful fruit tones and well as that stony minerality. The weight on the palate surprises for Sangiovese as well, the flavors deceptively rich and yet distinctively Tuscan, the tannins and acidity well tucked in as is the standard in 2016, this is a head turner.

Antonio Galloni was suitably impressed as well, “The 2016 Chianti Classico Riserva Caparsino is the more refined of the estate’s two Riservas. Aromatic, silky and also plush, the 2016 is fabulous. Mint, pine, lavender, espresso and macerated dark cherry all open up in the glass, but more than anything else, the 2016 is a wine that gracefully marries power with richness. The 2016 is a total knock-out. Don’t miss it… 96 Points.”

We understand that for some of you, $45 for something that says Chianti might be a little difficult. But this is one of those wines that rises above the appellation and bests most of the much pricier Gran Selezione wines we have tasted.

Like Galloni says, don’t miss it. He’s right.

MORE MAGIC FROM CHIANTI

It has been a great run for Chianti over the last couple vintages. There has been any number of epic performances by ‘the usual suspects.’ But perhaps more exciting is the energy running through the whole category, and the appearance of a few newer faces that have a lot to offer. This pair of Chiantis aren’t necessarily ‘famous’ from a media standout. But they are everything else you could want…distinctive, elegant, and possessed of excellent expression of ‘enlightened traditional.’

We were familiar with the Bibbiano label mostly from noticing it in and among rather extensive consorzio tasting events in Europe. This is the first time we were ever presented the wine by the current importer and the Bibbiano Chianti Classico 2016 is the first version to be on the floor. These are not newcomers in general though, having been founded in 1865. Bibbiano is located in the historic Chianti region, in the municipality of Castellina in Chianti, overlooking the Elsa Valley towards the castle of Monteriggioni. Today’s owners, Tommaso and Federico Marrocchesi Marzi, represent the fifth generation to operate the estate.

Bibbiano’s current winemaker was trained under the long-standing consultancy of famed winemaker Giulio Gambelli, also famous for his long relationships with Montevertine and Case Basse di Soldera. The estate was certified organic in 2011. The Chianti Classico 2016 is 100% Sangiovese with grapes harvested by hand and fermented in accordance with their position on hill as the grapes come from both sides of the property. The fermentation is done entirely in concrete to preserve the terroir notes but also soften the profile of the wine. The flavors run from dark cherry to plum, with elements of earth and stony minerality, and a touch of spice.

The wine has a pleasing touch of rusticity in among the fruit, definitely giving it a bit of an ‘old school’ vibe, and presents a relatively fruit-forward demeanor. Having had past vintages sporadically, we’d proffer that the 2016 vintage gave this one a bit more flesh than normally, kicking it into another level. Wine Spectator said of this wine, “A racy style whose vibrant acidity drives flavors of black cherry, black currant, iron, earth and soy. Still very firm, with the acidity acting in tandem with refined tannins. Fine length. Drink now through 2033… 91 Points.”

Not sure we’d use the term ‘racy’. We’d describe it as a slight ‘chewiness’ that is quite pleasing. But, all in all, the Bibbiano is certainly tasty and satisfying, as well as a Chianti that plays very well for its moderate tab. A well-made ‘workhorse’ in a bit of a throwback style.

The Castello Romitorio Chianti Colli Senesi 2017 was something of a surprise. Not because we didn’t know the house. On the contrary, we have been selling Romitorio’s Brunellos for years. The estate is well known for their historic castle (the foundations of which may date to Roman times), their highly-regarded Brunellos, and the occasional controversial label from artist/owner Sando Chia. What we hadn’t seen before was a Chianti Colli Senesi from this notable estate.

Sando’s son, Fillipo, spoke with great enthusiasm about the Chianti project as a way to put a more affordable version of the Romitorio name into the marketplace to cast a wider net. The idea here is to make a polished version of the genre, with the estate’s tech sheet speaking about the hills around Siena and making the statement that, “This area has been known since ancient times for knowing how to produce very high quality reds that rival Burgundy for elegance.”

The grapes are hand harvested, and sorted twice, both before and after destemming. This 100% Sangiovese sees ten months in oak. We’re perfectly capable of writing notes but as we researched this piece, we found a somewhat over-the-top literary effort by MW Anne Krebiehl , “Just smell it to be transported to the ocher-colored countryside of Tuscany: the scent of parched earth and oak woods is there, together with the characteristic, harsh hint of Sangiovese marasca cherries. The body presents structure and tension without being heavy, it is fresh and pungent, a wine born for the table. Good persistence, sincere, and impactful but agile at the same time. The fruit, red currant, cranberry and Morello cherry, looks clear in the finish. It has charm and character to sell.”

Artists. In truth there is something of an ethereal sense to this very sleek Chianti that is modern yet at the same time has tradition in full view. Like the Bibbiano, it is a very classy effort for under $20, though stylistically quite different. It is also a ‘little’ wine made big time folks, a long adhered-to axiom of ours. Wee found no mention of it anywhere in the media but are happy to have discovered this beauty and anxious to see where it goes in future vintages.

MONTEPARONI: CHIANTI FOR MATURE AUDIENCES

As we see it, our job is to find the good stuff. Period. If there is widespread success, and lots of good stuff, so be it. If there is a concentration of standouts in one region as opposed to others, that’s OK, too. Tuscany has had their share of good fortune of late, though 2017 was a bit more difficult from a farming perspective, though mostly from an economic standpoint (early weather quirks curtailed a lot of cropload). We aren’t going to tell you the vintage was like 2016. There haven’t been many at that level. But there certainly was a good enough vintage canvas for talented artists and this small estate is one of the under the radar stars.

This will be our third straight vintage with Monteraponi. Yes, for some folks, Chianti comes in those little, woven fiasco bottles. But this is on a completely different plane. Value is a relative thing and means delivering for the fare. This estate makes one of the more serious Chiantis you’ll taste, though it isn’t all gussied up with wood. It can go toe-to-toe with Gran Seleziones, a new, and still rather nebulous ‘reserve plus’ designation.

Monteraponi is in Radda and the vineyards are at high altitude (from 1300-1500 feet above sea level). The wines are carefully made in a very natural way, which is to say no added yeast, nutrients, or malolactic bacteria are used, fermentation takes place in cement tanks, followed by long macerations (even the Chianti Classico is kept on the skins for at least 25 days), the wines are aged in large neutral oak only, and they are not fined or filtered.

Plenty of complex, terroir-driven fruit, this ‘regular’ bottling somehow has more gravitas than most Chiantis we encounter, price notwithstanding.
The deep core of dark red fruit comes to the fore, with accents of earth, menthol, pepper, cedar, sandalwood, and violets. But it also has another gear that carries more through the back of the palate and length to the flavors. It gets pretty consistent accolades from the press (93 for both the 2015 and 2016 from Vinous for example) and we expect the same here. It has plenty of fruit and, if you had the 2016, this one will be a little higher toned and lighter on its feet by virtue of the vintage. Delicious and very soulful, a little air time will allow it strut its stuff.

Monteraponi is in Radda and the vineyards are at high altitude (from 1300-1500 feet above sea level). and the wines are carefully made in a very natural way, which is to say no added yeast, nutrients, or malolactic bacteria are used, fermentation takes place in cement tanks, followed by long macerations (even the Chianti Classico is kept on the skins for at least 25 days), the wines are aged in large oak only, and they are not fined or filtered.

YET ANOTHER KILLER 2016 CHIANTI VALUE: CASTELLO DI VOLPAIA

Castello di Volpaia has been on our radar for a long time. We have, at one time or another, sold their black label Riserva, and specialty bottlings Coltasala and Balifico. But we can’t remember a time the ‘regular’ Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico turned in a performance like this. Hey, this is a good house that has a solid track record and an occasional ‘home run’ (their 2015 Riserva was #3 on Wine Sectator’s Top 100 last year…of course it had been sold out for months).

But an exceptional vintage like 2016 has the power to lift the level of all wines great and small and put this ‘little’ wine into a special place. The Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico is usually a pretty good utilitarian choice, but this time around this 2016 is touching another level. As we have explained a few times, the scores for this wine are typically going to be influenced lower by the fact that there are a number of upper tier selections from the same house for scribes to review. But the fact that everybody gave this wine a nice ‘number,’ and even nicer comments, speaks volumes.

For our part, we’ll say that the rounder texture, lift, and darker fruit component, as well as the easy-to-swallow price ($17.98), made this a must. Here are quick hits on the critic’s words,

Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media : “The 2016 Chianti Classico is all class. Fresh, floral and beautifully lifted, the 2016 offers a terrific expression of the estate in its mid-weight personality. All the elements meld together in this effortless, classy wine from the family. The 2016 is quite accessible today, but it also has enough brightness to age nicely for a number of years. What a pretty wine it is… 91 Points”

Monica Larner, robertparker.com: “Showing ripe fruit and rich intensity, the 2016 Chianti Classico (made with 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot) would pair nicely next to pasta with extra cheese grated on top. This wine is bright and fruit-forward with the fresh acidity to cut though the fat in cheese, butter or cream. The tight and focused nature of the wine’s sharp berry flavors would also make a perfect contrast to the natural sweetness in those ingredients. This is always a great food wine, but this vintage is even better poised to match your favorite Italian dishes…90+ points!”

James Suckling: “Aromas of cherries, dried strawberries and red plums. Medium to full body, round and ripe tannins and a nice, fresh finish. Drink now….92 points.”

Decanter Magazine: “…Merlot is included to make it more approachable, but it still has the potential to age. Red berries and earth notes reveal themselves slowly, with perfumed violet nuances showing up on the palate. Firm but refined tannins hold it all together, and the finish lingers with appetizing minerality…91 points”

Another superb ‘go-to’ from Chianti in 2016…enough said.

‘Modern’ (Easy Dinking) Chianti

Chianti as a category can be a bit daunting. You’ve got commercial stuff in straw fiascos in the red checkered cloth Italian restaurants, the $100+ single vineyard bottlings from Castello di Ama, and a rainbow of stuff in between. It’s all called Chianti even though some have nothing in common. To further complicate matters, you have a variety of terroirs like Chianti Classico, Rufina, and Greve that make their own unique contribution to the finished wine. Finally, you have individual styles of the wineries themselves.

While most of the producer names that come to mind fall into more or less in what would be the ‘traditional’ camp, today we thought we’d touch on a couple that were more ‘new school’ at least in how they come across. While the whole discussion of ‘camps’ doesn’t really come up a lot relative to Chianti, we felt the need to share a couple of wines that have a plumper, sweeter core of fruit that gives a more fruit-driven, ‘modern’ element to their profiles.

The first was a staple at the Orange store for years, though this is the first time this ‘regular’ bottling of the Fattoria Basciano Chianti Rufina 2015 has appeared here. We hadn’t seen the wine in a while. The fact that this came from the juicy 2015 vintage made a perfect platform for Basciano’s gregarious stylistic bent. Key words that seem to come up consistently when we talk about Basciano are ‘lip smacking’ and ‘juicy’. Father Renzo and son Paolo Masi run something of a negociant enterprise with the idea of consistently getting high quality fruit to create enviable quality at attractive prices. This they have done quite well for a long time.

The 2015 has the bright, slippery, ripe black and blue fruit core that should appeal to anyone. The wine is packed with tender fruit, has plenty of energy, and is far too easy to haul off and drink for something from Rufina. At this point we don’t see a lot of the minerally terroir that appears in a supporting role in most efforts from this part of Chianti. This wine is the proverbial, succulent ‘fastball down the middle’.

Wine Spectator’s descriptors work efficiently here, “Pure aromas and flavors of cherry, blackberry and floral gain depth from earth and leafy tobacco accents. Firms up on the finish, with a pleasant astringency.” One doesn’t write paragraphs on this one. One drinks it with relish. The Basciano simply wants to be liked and it succeeds admirably on that score. Don’t let the $12 price scare you either. This delivers plenty of character and value as well.

The Gagliole Chianti Classico Rubiolo 2016 plays to the same crowd, but for different reasons. We have had a few presentations of this Gagliole bottling in past vintages, but this is the first one to ‘make the cut’. We are probably not going out on too much of a limb to suggest the 2016 vintage may have had something to do with that, ome article suggesting later harvesting during this cooler vintage probably did a lot to elevate and enrich this wine’s fruit core.

It is that outgoing fruit that makes the Rubiolo appealing to a larger audience. Not sure if ‘fruit driven’ and ‘modern’ was the intent here but that is what this delivers. The Rubiolo is 95% Sangiovese, clearly a big beneficiary in the 2016 vintage as a varietal, but also contains five percent Merlot to give the edges a bit of polish.

While this is our first dance with the Rubiolo that we can recall, there seems to be a ready audience with a 91 from Wine Advocate with comments, “This wine is an absolute steal…” James Suckling tossed a 92 on it and it got two glasses from Gambero Rosso to boot. Plump, seamless, focused on a joyous core of plumy fruit, it is easy to like, and won’t break the bank at $14.98.