It has been a great run for Chianti over the last couple vintages. There has been any number of epic performances by ‘the usual suspects.’ But perhaps more exciting is the energy running through the whole category, and the appearance of a few newer faces that have a lot to offer. This pair of Chiantis aren’t necessarily ‘famous’ from a media standout. But they are everything else you could want…distinctive, elegant, and possessed of excellent expression of ‘enlightened traditional.’
We were familiar with the Bibbiano label mostly from noticing it in and among rather extensive consorzio tasting events in Europe. This is the first time we were ever presented the wine by the current importer and the Bibbiano Chianti Classico 2016 is the first version to be on the floor. These are not newcomers in general though, having been founded in 1865. Bibbiano is located in the historic Chianti region, in the municipality of Castellina in Chianti, overlooking the Elsa Valley towards the castle of Monteriggioni. Today’s owners, Tommaso and Federico Marrocchesi Marzi, represent the fifth generation to operate the estate.
Bibbiano’s current winemaker was trained under the long-standing consultancy of famed winemaker Giulio Gambelli, also famous for his long relationships with Montevertine and Case Basse di Soldera. The estate was certified organic in 2011. The Chianti Classico 2016 is 100% Sangiovese with grapes harvested by hand and fermented in accordance with their position on hill as the grapes come from both sides of the property. The fermentation is done entirely in concrete to preserve the terroir notes but also soften the profile of the wine. The flavors run from dark cherry to plum, with elements of earth and stony minerality, and a touch of spice.
The wine has a pleasing touch of rusticity in among the fruit, definitely giving it a bit of an ‘old school’ vibe, and presents a relatively fruit-forward demeanor. Having had past vintages sporadically, we’d proffer that the 2016 vintage gave this one a bit more flesh than normally, kicking it into another level. Wine Spectator said of this wine, “A racy style whose vibrant acidity drives flavors of black cherry, black currant, iron, earth and soy. Still very firm, with the acidity acting in tandem with refined tannins. Fine length. Drink now through 2033… 91 Points.”
Not sure we’d use the term ‘racy’. We’d describe it as a slight ‘chewiness’ that is quite pleasing. But, all in all, the Bibbiano is certainly tasty and satisfying, as well as a Chianti that plays very well for its moderate tab. A well-made ‘workhorse’ in a bit of a throwback style.
The Castello Romitorio Chianti Colli Senesi 2017 was something of a surprise. Not because we didn’t know the house. On the contrary, we have been selling Romitorio’s Brunellos for years. The estate is well known for their historic castle (the foundations of which may date to Roman times), their highly-regarded Brunellos, and the occasional controversial label from artist/owner Sando Chia. What we hadn’t seen before was a Chianti Colli Senesi from this notable estate.
Sando’s son, Fillipo, spoke with great enthusiasm about the Chianti project as a way to put a more affordable version of the Romitorio name into the marketplace to cast a wider net. The idea here is to make a polished version of the genre, with the estate’s tech sheet speaking about the hills around Siena and making the statement that, “This area has been known since ancient times for knowing how to produce very high quality reds that rival Burgundy for elegance.”
The grapes are hand harvested, and sorted twice, both before and after destemming. This 100% Sangiovese sees ten months in oak. We’re perfectly capable of writing notes but as we researched this piece, we found a somewhat over-the-top literary effort by MW Anne Krebiehl , “Just smell it to be transported to the ocher-colored countryside of Tuscany: the scent of parched earth and oak woods is there, together with the characteristic, harsh hint of Sangiovese marasca cherries. The body presents structure and tension without being heavy, it is fresh and pungent, a wine born for the table. Good persistence, sincere, and impactful but agile at the same time. The fruit, red currant, cranberry and Morello cherry, looks clear in the finish. It has charm and character to sell.”
Artists. In truth there is something of an ethereal sense to this very sleek Chianti that is modern yet at the same time has tradition in full view. Like the Bibbiano, it is a very classy effort for under $20, though stylistically quite different. It is also a ‘little’ wine made big time folks, a long adhered-to axiom of ours. Wee found no mention of it anywhere in the media but are happy to have discovered this beauty and anxious to see where it goes in future vintages.