We have followed Portuguese whites for some time. Frankly for much of that period, they were little more than utilitarian. They weren’t necessarily intended for great heights, so comparing them to ‘grand vin’ is kind of pointless. They were, for the most part, simply ‘white and wet’.
Over the last half-dozen years or so, however, we have started to see some new faces that take their business more seriously. They keep the wines clean and fresh. They don’t over crop. And the wines have fruit along with their brisk acidity. Lately we find ourselves reaching for these a lot more often, and the newest versions of two of our favorites have hit the floor just in time.
The ‘official’ drink me by-the-sea wine of Portugal is called Vinho Verde, which translates into ‘green wine’. These are intended to be consumed young and bright, but for the most part are not necessarily compelling. A couple of years ago we discovered this producer, and have looked for this bottling every year since. The Arca Nova Vinho Verde 2016 is a compelling go-to again, all of that crisp quaffability but also corresponding fruit and flavor interest that you don’t find in too many Vinho Verdes.
Dubbed one of the official Winex ‘house whites’, there’s texture to the lime/apple fruit and a feeling of substance to go along with the expected zing and delicate mineral notes. Fermentation occurs at low temperatures in stainless steel vats, preserving the wine’s jump-out-of-the-glass verve and keeping a little CO2 in the mix to give it a little hint of spritz taking the whole experience up a couple of notches! It’s a steal at this price so ‘don’t fear the deal’ and it zips nicely with the lighter fare of summer. You may not know the grapes (Loureiro 50%, Arinto 40%, and Treixadura 10%), but this one performs in the glass where it matters.
Another of our old favorites, and arguably a wine whose earlier versions sent us the message that there was something going on in Portugal, is the Soalheiro Alvarinho Vinho Verde 2016. The grape here is a bit more familiar (Alvarinho is what the Portuguese call Albariño), and Soalheiro can compete with Spain’s best versions. Yellow melon, lime, kiwi, a wisp of salinity, this is another superb performer with a bit more power and substance and, of course, plenty of sizzle.
A Wine Advocate 92 for Soalheiro (not bad for a ‘little’ Portuguese white), the descriptive notes ring true, “This shows all the hallmarks of Soalheiro, fresh, clean and lively. It is a pointed wine that seems a bit on the lean side, but it is very tightly wound, utterly gripping on the juicy finish and perfectly focused…Don’t drink it too cold—if you do, the power just takes over. If you like them crisp and dry, with that laser-like burst of acidity, this is an easy choice at a nice price.”
The Iberian Peninsula is rocking this summer with whites…