GREAT WHITES – Page 4

THE MAGIC OF ALSACE

If you saw the Beck-Hartweg Pinot Gris Cuvee de l’Ours 2007 just sitting on the shelf, you would likely pay it no mind. To be honest, looking at the vintage, it wouldn’t be our first grab either. Too old? Tired? We would have been wrong. One of the sad things we have noticed is that folks don’t care about Alsace as much as they used to. We sold remarkable amounts back in the 90s, and the area achieved stature thanks to a significant run of great juice from the likes of Olivier Humbrecht and the ladies at Domaine Weinbach. But, sadly, Alsace as a subject doesn’t get much attention in the wine press any more. It is particularly unfortunate at a time when the varied Asian and Asian influenced cuisines are widely appreciated on the food scene as these wines pair superbly (….getting hungry).

In any case, Beck-Hartweg is a fine producer who farms organically. We have been working with this domaine for a while and the presentation that day included several ‘older’ bottles that all showed surprisingly well. Do Alsace wines typically age well? The good ones certainly can and this one did!

It will be a little difficult to paint the picture since very few folks have the opportunity to experience a wine like this, thus making for no point of reference. But we’re going to give it our best shot secure in the knowledge, if it doesn’t work, there are lot of good Thai and Vietnamese places around here where we could do some expanded research ourselves. We won’t mind but, really, this is one of those rare opportunities.

In spite of the date, we just bought this. The 2007 vintage was very good in Alsace (one of the best since the turn of the century). The nose is an inviting melange of well meshed floral, white stone fruit, and quince nuances. All of that comes through on the palate accented with some yellow stone fruit and a delicate touch of minerality. The texture was remarkable, almost fat and unctuous but with everything sitting atop perfectly proportioned gentle acidity that did its job without getting in the way. The richness on the palate gave the impression of sweetness but the wine wasn’t actually sweet.

All in all, this was a captivating, soulful, and even a little bit cerebral effort. Only something from Alsace could have been exactly like this, the bottle age, those unique terroirs and deceptive viscosity making for a one-of-a-kind wine experience. An exciting wine and proof that Alsace should still be a ‘thing’.

2016 MÁQUINA & TABLA PÁRAMOS DE NICASIA BLANCO CASTILLA Y LEON 2016

If ever a wine needed subtitles, this would be it. But there are a lot of fun, esoteric things emerging from the wine world today simply because they are there and someone was convinced enough of the wine to bring it to market. The label is very ‘camp’, the red waxed tip closure visually appealing, and the appellation Castilla y Leon reasonably familiar to fans of Spanish wines as a broad area containing other more delineated regions within it like Ribera del Duero. This particular wine is labeled 2016 Máquina & Tabla Páramos de Nicasia Blanco Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y Leon, a rather wordy delineation that essentially means ‘freedom’ because the wines bearing the “vino de la tierra” nomenclature operate outside the strict guidelines of more specific Dos like Ribera and Rueda.

Most of the examples we have seen bearing this banner, probably the most famous of which is Mauro, are red. Though with the dark glass and red cap might give one an impression otherwise, this is pink wine, though one with a personality all its own. The stated goal here is to produce wines with a connection to centuries-old tradition, in this case making a ‘Clarete’. The wine is made by blending the free-run juice of Garnacha, Tempranillo, and Malvasia which here creates a wine that isn’t very pink and has more in common with a white wine from Savennierres or a dry version of a still ‘blanc de noir’. They use the term ‘Clarete’ rather than Rosato because they feel it suggests a wine that is more substantial and serious than your garden variety pink wine.

This juice comes from 8 hectare vineyard located outside Villaester within the D.O. of Toro. Called Pasiego, this site is a mix of 50-60 year old, ungrafted vines of Tinta del País (the local clone of Tempranillo), Garnacha and Malvasía on sandy soil over a clay/limestone subsoil. The color of this wine comes from the natural hue of the free-run juice of the blend, which is roughly equal parts of the three varietals. It has volume, texture, and verve, and can hang with more serious dishes. It sees 8 months in four-year-old barrels.

Luis Gutierrez of Wine Advocate took a walk on the wild side as well, saying of this unique juice “…It has a serious profile, especially on the palate, where it’s somewhere in between a light red and a full-bodied white, with serious chalky tannins and consistency to stand up to food and a few years of aging in bottle. It’s tasty and supple, serious and not banal…91 points.” Definitely not banal, this is also the type of distinctive effort that the broad marketplace doesn’t even know exists. It’s definitely something that has a place on the table and makes a great foil for a surprising array of dishes. A must try.

DREAM SWEETS: Part 2

Global warming has changed a lot of things about German wines. So have the changing tastes of some markets that have put an emphasis on dry/trocken versions of German wine (for better or worse), particularly from elite ‘grand cru’ sites from which the great dessert bottlings used to come. When we go to German tasting these days, we are typically forced to slog through 30% (or more) skeletal dry Rieslings among the offerings while there are only a handful of true Auslesen in the room.

Maybe tastes really have changed and the demand for the higher pradikat wines has waned in recent years. Our objection with Germany is that the traditional fruity style is what these vineyards do like nowhere else in the world, yet we are fighting Nature by superimposing a current winemaking ‘fad’ on vineyard sites who are best served doing what they have been doing for centuries. Those are fighting words to some of the ‘New Age’ wine types but, frankly, we don’t care. We love a great auslese and the Selbach-Oster Riesling Zeltinger Schlossberg ‘Schmitt’ 2016 is a fine example of why.

Selabch-Oster is a top flight producer that owns parcels in several of the best sites on the Mosel, and he makes a lot of different bottlings. His ‘benchmark’ wines are from three very old plots high on the slopes within specific, high profile vineyards. One of these is Schmitt from the Zeltiner Himmelreich. Schmitt has a perfect southern exposure, but a deeper subsoil of crumbly, broken slate mixed with organic matter and loam. Importer Terry Thiesse likens the vineyard’s orientation further from the river and above the town where the human element creates additional warmth to that of Bernkasteler Doktor.

It is also made in a singular style. Whereas most Auslese are the result of several passes through the vineyard, Selbach harvests the whole block at once, fermenting the grapes of varied degrees of ripeness together to reflect not only the terroir, but the ‘moment’. The grapes are fermented with only their natural yeasts and allowed to determine their own fate, be that trocken or a knockout auslese like we have here.

Stephan Reinhardt wrote a love poem that covers all the bases succinctly, “The 2016 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Auslese “Schmitt” is a very clear, fresh and precise on the nose, with very fine mineral aromas of crunchy slate. This reminds me a bit of the Wehlener Sonnenuhr in its finesse, perfectly ripe fruit and the finest possible expression of minerals in wine. This is the finest Schmitt I have ever had and surely one of the greatest 2016s from the Mosel. Its finesse and elegance are mind-blowing…97 points“–

Great now and for a couple of decades hence.

ALT WHITES: PART 3

Over the years we have told a lot of tales. More than a few of them have been about a new star coming to market that was going to have a significant impact. This one is more of a rebirth of sorts that has the potential to have greater impact as time passes in the rather specific area of Austrian whites. For the time being, it is important to understand the ‘players’, and as importantly the dirt, or the stones as this elevated site is a bit light on topsoil.

Without going into a whole Mitchneresque reach back to the formation of the earth, Atzberg and Singgeriegel are virtually identical in their composition of red stones, slate and gneiss with little topsoil. Eventually they were separated by a stream called Mieslingbach. Singgeriegel went on to become recognized as one of, if not the top vineyard in the Wachau. Atzberg can trace its history back to the 13^th Century and the building called Mauritiushof was used by the monks to collect grapes. The Gritsch family bought the property in 1799, and used the building for wine production.

In recent times the Atzberg Vineyard itself was not cultivated. It’s terraced vineyards high on the hill were unplanted until winemaker Franz-Josef Gritsch and his partners Hans Schmid and Robert Wutzl decided that the spot was too special and important a site to be ignored. They dove in and ‘recultivated’ this historic site with the idea of restoring it to its formal elite status that was mentioned in records as far back as 1382.

Everything is ‘old school’. This 100% Gruner Veltliner vineyard is labor-intensive, with the grapes handpicked and carried in small tubs down to the lower valley. The thinking was that, given the history, if Singgeriegel is such an iconic vineyard, so too should Atzberg be among the stars of the region. If the Atzberg Gruner Veltliner Steilterrassen 2016 (Steilterrassen literally means ‘steep terraces’) is any indication, the ‘reclamation’ project is going quite swimmingly. The juice in the glass definitely gets one’s attention. It begins with a harmonious succession of aromas such as red berries, earthy minerality, apple, pear, wild herbs and spices.

In the mouth, all of this reveals itself in a palate that has not only the anticipated lift but a fairly broad, ample, and tender feel. Some Gruners sting, this one does a lot more caressing while still delivering the kind of bright, energetic experience one expects from this varietal when done right. Somewhat kinder and gentler, it delivers loads of character and finishing salinity. While it should please established fans of the genre, it is capable of winning some new friends for Gruner by virtue of its friendlier texture. The breeding and complexity of the site in the glass support the effort Gritsch and friends have put into it.

We don’t have any flashy reviews. We didn’t find any on this specific vintage, but didn’t really need them to validate that this was exciting stuff. Also, given the laborious nature of the site, we found the price to be more than fair, particularly when compared to an ‘upper cuvee’ from the site called Obere that literally costs more than twice as much. Delicious Gruner that can play with serious food should you choose, this is an early look into what we expect to be recognized as one of the superstar sites of the region soon enough.

ALT WHITES: PART 2

We embraced the whites from northwestern Spain immediately when we first started seeing a lot of them in the mid-90s. We’re still big fans but it is important to know that all such wines are not created equal. They can be riveting and bright, but can also be dull or over acidic. The right ones, as an aperitif or particularly with seafood, can be magic. We try a lot of them that you will never hear about because the range for success is a narrow one, and we think they should be reasonably priced to boot. With that in mind here are a couple of choices that work for us on all the required levels and, in fact, are repeat performers here.

Back when we started selling Albarinos, we had to explain to people what they were. Now enough people have had them to know what they are about. Styles and performance can vary widely given the producer, the volume, and where the vineyard is relative to the sea among other things. The Turonia Albarino Rias Baixas 2017 once again has everything we are looking for and delivers at a price that is easy to swallow. Somewhere between a Viognier and a Riesling in personality, the wine shows white stone fruit, lime, some spice and floral notes, and a refreshing finishing salinity with some fruit volume up-front and lift throughout.

Perhaps a bit harder to explain is the Eduardo Peña Ribeiro Blanco 2017. Ribiero is a small area inland from Raixas Bias and north of Portugal that specializes in unique blended whites. The rock star of the region is one called Emilio Rojo that is on most of the Michelin restaurant lists in Spain but costs in the $40-50 range. The Edward Pena gives you a very fine example of this genre for a lot less money.

The Edward Pena is a blend of Treixadura, Albariño, Godello, Lado and Loureira macerated and fermented in 300-liter European oak barrels. Pale yellow in color with golden highlights, the nose is a complex melange of lemon, bay leaf and orange blossom aromas, and tropical scents such as pineapple and mango. Peach and apricot, some honied tones, minerals and light balsamic smoky touch, it’s a bit broader on the palate than the ‘coastal’ whites but still has deceptive lift. An intriguing genre here that should have more followers but that’s because few people have seen these wines.

ALT WHITES: PART 1

Back in the day when Chardonnay was king (and it still is in a lot of households), there was the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) movement. Ultimately no universal truths came out of it, only the fact that more people realize that other white wines, some even with funny names, can be very pleasing beverages and, as a bonus, more versatile with food.

White Rhones can be something of an enigma to some folks. North and south feature different varietals, blends can be quirky, and how one utilizes oak can be a make or break proposition. There is also a history of wines that were a bit oxidative and rather expensive that gave the category a rather checkered history in decades past.

Even though white wine production is considerably smaller than red in this part of the world, vintners have made great strides in producing whites that are both compelling and bright. In this case, Francois Villard is probably more known for his whites and the Francois Villard Saint Peray Version 2017 presents the kind of clarity and lift that few wines from this lesser-known region achieve.

Pear and citrus fruit punctuated by subtle floral and mineral aspects, this got our attention from first sip. Wine Advocate’s Joe Czerwinski was spot on with his notes here, “Villard’s 2017 Saint Peray Version is simultaneously rich and opulent yet bright and refreshing. This medium to full-bodied blend of 65% Marsanne and 35% Roussanne was barrel fermented and aged in older barrels, giving it plenty of weight and a silky texture, but the flavors of anise and flamed citrus zest keep the wine fresh, lingering elegantly on the finish…93 points.” The expressive, gregarious nature of this white makes it a surprisingly engaging choice in both aperitif or food applications.

SUPERSTAR IN THE RE-MAKING

Without going into a whole Mitchneresque reach back to the formation of the earth, Atzberg and Singgeriegel are virtually identical in their composition of red stones, slate and gneiss with little topsoil. Eventually, they were separated by a stream called Mieslingbach. Singgeriegel went on to become recognized as one of, if not the top vineyard in the Wachau. Atzberg can trace its history back to the 13th Century and the building called Mauritiushof was used by the monks to collect grapes. The Gritsch family bought the property in 1799, and used the building for wine production.

Everything is ‘old school’. This 100% Gruner Veltliner vineyard is labor- intensive, with the grapes handpicked and carried in small tubs down to the lower valley. The thinking was that, given the history, if Singgeriegel is such an iconic vineyard, so too should Atzberg be among the stars of the region. If the Atzberg Gruner Veltliner Steilterrassen 2016 (Steilterrassen literally means ‘steep terraces’) is any indication, the ‘reclamation’ project is going quite swimmingly. The juice in the glass definitely gets one’s attention. It begins with a harmonious succession of aromas such as red berries, earthy minerality, apple, pear, wild herbs and spices.

We don’t have any flashy reviews. We didn’t find any reviews on this specific vintage, we didn’t really need them to validate that this was exciting stuff. Also, given the laborious nature of the site, we found the price to be more than fair, particularly when compared to an ‘upper cuvee’ from the site called Obere that literally costs more than twice as much. Delicious Gruner that can play with serious food should you choose, this is an early look into what we expect to be recognized as one of the superstar sites of the region soon enough.

MAYBE WE SHOULDN’T LET THE OLD WAYS DIE…

There seems to be a growing trend among some California winemakers to go back to the more balanced styles of California’s formative years in the ‘60s and ‘70’s. During all this time Husch winery has been doing the same things and delivering clear stylistic examples that have been virtually unchanged the winery was founded in 1971. It claims to have been the first winery in the Anderson Valley. In 1979 the Oswald family purchased the estate and the third generation to run the winery are currently at the helm.

We bring them up not to praise their Cabernet or Chardonnay, which are still well made, traditional styles of their respective genre. But they are stars with two genres of wine that aren’t widely grown or even talked about in California. They are delicious examples of their breed and ridiculously cheap by today’s overblown California standards.

Part of the juice for the Husch Dry Gewurztraminer Anderson Valley 2017 comes from vines planted in 1968 and the cool climate here suits the varietal like few places in the Golden State. As such it is dry, crisp, delicate, spicy and ‘Gewurtzy’ without being overdone or clumsy. Sometimes Gewurz can be a little ‘dumpy’ on the finish, but not this one. Clean, bright, varietal with a subtle fruit and floral nose, delicate spice notes through the palate, and lift to the finish. Fire this up with a holiday ham or any number of lighter preparations of fish or fowl, particularly with an Asian slant.

If you think talking about Gewurz is off the wall, their Husch Chenin Blanc Mendocino County 2018 is a marvelous throwback (though it’s not a throwback to them as they have always made it this way). They started in 1984 and have been making one of the best in the state ever since. Yeah, Chenin has a bad rap thanks to a lot of mass produced examples when the genre was widely popular in the ’70s. But a well made Chenin still has a place at the table or on the porch. We think a touch of sweetness is necessary to offset the blazing acidity in this varietal, and this is a super refreshing display of orange, peach and melon flavors with a hint of ‘stone’ and great cut to the finish. It has the same kind of food versatility as their gewurz, and is, again, silly ‘cheap’.

Sure it’s ‘hipper’ to say you drink some semi-oxidized lab experiment under the banner of ‘natural wine’. But we’d rather have something direct, precise, and that does exactly what it should. There is precious little of these varietals made in California any more. But even though they are ‘old school’ they are riveting examples of a time gone by.

NOT YOUR FATHER’S CHENIN BLANC

South Africa has been an interesting proposition winewise. Starting to export in the 90s after the apartheid was lifted, the political stigma and rather parochial styles of most of the wines made it difficult to get any traction for the category in this marketplace. Now that we are about a quarter century into the ‘program’, we and they have learned a few things. The styles of many of the wines have become more international in an attempt to create better market penetration. A lot of those wines are competitive internationally, but it is fair to say that a good many of them are not memorable or distinctive.

With a few exceptions, most of South Africa’s best efforts are uniquely South African. Among the most notable are the work of folks like Erin Sadie and some dynamic new white blends from an emerging cadre of open minded, creative newcomers. But the grape that seems to achieve the highest expression as a varietal is…Chenin Blanc!

Typically the vines are old, with deep roots extracting distinctive character from the unique vineyard sites, tremendous infused minerality and crackling, mouth-watering acidity. This is not the sweet, quaffable stuff that permeated the American market in the 70s, sort of a precursor to the white Zin era. In fact the best examples of South African Chenin can hold their own with the produce from the ‘motherland’ of the Loire Valley. Which is better? That’s not a sweeping debate but rather comes down to the individual comparison being made.

Huet or Chidane versus Sadie Family or Alheit? Fantastic comparison on the quality front though the acidity is a bit more driving in the South African wines. Frankly, for the most part, although the best of the Loire ‘giants’ are expensive these days, the best SA versions typically cost more. Advantage Loire. On the value end of the spectrum, however, we have seen things come out of South Africa that are downright unbelievable, and we have recently come across one of the most remarkable examples of South African Chenin Blanc we have ever tasted for this kind of price.

Simonsig was among the first wave of wineries that came over here when South Africa was permitted to enter this market. We tasted a number of wines over the years but mostly reds. We can assure you we never had their Chenin or it would have been a staple. Apparently, Simonsig Chenin Blanc was the first wine released by founder Frans Malan in 1968 and this particular bottling marks their 50^th Anniversary harvest.

For a wine that is going to sell for this kind of price, it is given the royal treatment in the vineyard with all hand harvesting from 30-40 year old bush vines and cool, controlled fermentation. In the glass, a honey/peach aroma makes its presence felt right out of the gate. The flavor aromas of crunchy ripe kiwi and green melon jump out of the glass. The palate is crisp and fresh with Granny Smith apples and sweet tropical limes all sitting atop of driving acidity. The Simonsig Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch 2018 is what Chenin is supposed to be, with broad, bright honeyed toast, peach, and subtle minerality all as part of the presentation, but with the kid of cut that makes it all quite vibrant.

Full and round up fruit, and so easy to sip, this has the kind of riveting acidity that makes an impression and makes the mouth water. A complete effort with sizzling character, a little punch of berries and lemon drops underneath and mouth watering snap to the finish. You can drink this with lighter fare or on its own as an amazing aperitif. Normally with most wines we’d roll out some sort of reviews, but wines like this doesn’t get the kind of respect they deserve and this one wasn’t reviewed anywhere we saw.

Like we said, we don’t recall ever tasting past incarnations of this effort from Simonsig, but this is one is one of the best Chenins we have had at any price in terms of its verve and, certainly among the best value white wines we hve had period. At $10, it’s downright silly. Over the years one of our value, go-to Chenins was Mann (also from South Africa), but this one is better. In fact we have tasted few others this compelling at any price. A stunner!

Classic Gruner at a sub-$20 fare

We have espoused on our version of the theory of relativity on a number of occasions. The heart of that theory is that one’s perception of a wine is greatly influenced by what else might be on the table. You are likely to have a better impression of a particular wine if it is tasted among lesser efforts, and, conversely, a really great wine’s magnitude might not be fully appreciated if it is tasted solely amongst other great wines.

Given that belief, it would follow that the Vorspannhof Mayr Gruner Veltliner Ried Loiser Weg Kremstal 2017, which we tasted after a knockout lineup of Ott Gruners, should have been swept away. The fact that it held its own in that company speaks volumes. From the northern end of Kremstal, near Kamptal, the soils here are loess and gravel, and the wine’s style and expression is much more ‘traditional’ with in the realm of Gruners.

Classic snap pea and watercress high tones with some white pepper and a little apricot, with a driving minerality and salinity through the middle to make everything sizzle, these folks are bringing it ‘old school’ in a good way. It could hang with the flashier Otts because of its drive. This one slices through food and leaves the palate energized for more, and the price performance in particular was impressive at $18.98.