Steve Zanotti – Page 6

NEW NAVARRA NOTABLES

There are things going on all over Spain, and Navarra is no different. It is a historic area that lives in the considerable shadow of Rioja to the southwest. This, however, is a new project by two environmental biologists and former winemaking hobbyists of Basque decent deciding to ‘go pro’ with the intent of focusing on Navarra’s widest planted varietal, Grenache. There’s a bit of a twist as they are looking for old plantings with more historic genetic materials. If those sites contain other ancient indigenous varietals, that’s okay, too.

They have assigned themselves a rather formidable task. They want to establish a new identity for Navarra based on scrutinizing and developing unique sites and allowing them to express themselves. They seem to have caught on in Spain and bottles of their wines started showing up in Michelin-starred restaurants across the country. The key to their work is biodiversity. They are working on high elevation sites with predominantly old vines in places were aromatic plants like rosemary, thyme and lavender naturally sprout up between the rows. Kind of sounds like Provence.

The name of the project, Aseginolaza & Leunda, will be a bit of a stumbling block for some folks, as will the general lack of familiarity regarding what Navarra is really all about. But that won’t be a major problem just yet since there is very little wine at present. The national importer says that only 1000 bottles came into the country among seven different bottlings. So you won’t need to clear away a lot of space in the cellar, but you should get to know this promising startup early on.

The Aseginolaza & Leunda Navarra Kauten 2020 is 100% Garnacha harvested in small bins and fermented with 25% whole clusters (the rest is destemmed) via native yeasts. It spends three months in neutral barrels before being bottled unfiltered with a minimum of SO2. As is the character of Navarra Grenache, the flavors center on cool edged, urgent red fruits.

From Luis Gutierrez at robertparker.com, “The very young and primary 2020 Kauten, produced with fruit from their younger vineyards, is fruit-driven and a little heady, with good ripeness and 14% alcohol, which provided pungent flavors and abundant fine-grained tannins. The oak is neatly integrated and the wine has very good general balance. It’s elegant and powerful with good ripeness, 14% alcohol, very good freshness (pH 3.17 and seven grams of acidity) and integrated oak after six months in barrel. 1,200 bottles were filled in July 2021…92 p0ints.”

As to the Aseginolaza & Leunda Navarra Matsanko 2020, the soil is composed
by a a succession of shales and siltstones, with insertions of coarse-grained sandstones. The wine sees five months in older barrels and then is bottled unfiltered after natural clarification. Luis Gutierrez takes care of the rest of the technicals in his piece.

From Luis Gutierrez, robertparker.com, “I was quite surprised by the complexity and nuance of the 2020 Matsanko, despite being very young. It fermented with full clusters and semi-carbonic maceration and matured in barrel for five months. It’s a blend of old-vine Garnacha (75%), Tempranillo (15%) and Viura (10%). It’s elegant, serious and somehow austere, with good ripeness (14.5% alcohol) and concentration, abundant fine-grained tannins and good depth. 1,239 bottles produced. It was bottled in July 2021…Aseginolaza & Leunda is one of the new names from Navarra worth following…92+ points!”

An intriguing new source to check out, quantities are limited.

AN IMPORTANT NEW FACE IN RIOJA

Even though Spain is a country of history and tradition, there are a number of things happening that question the established order of thing and, in some cases, boldly go where few have travelled. In Rioja, arguably the most traditional wine region in Spain, there is a lot of new thinking, some of which is generational. In some cases, this new thinking involves going back to the ‘old ways’ in the vineyard. The path of young, influential winemaker Arturo de Miguel Blanco is a fine example of that.

Arturo’s family has grape vines, and a strong belief in their land. Their ‘vision’ is to focus on specific terroirs and ‘return the power to the growers’. Arturo has converted all of their vineyards to organic farming and has purchased an additional 3.2 hectares in the villager of Samaniego and Villabuena de la Sonsierra, bringing their total holdings to 28.9 hectares of principally 30-40 year-old vines, mostly Tempranillo with some Garnarcha and Viura. Their ‘terroirs’ are primarily calcerous sandstone (somewhat similar to Barbera and Barbaresco).

As we have discussed on a couple of occasions, there is a trend among producers to eschew the standard classifications of Rioja of Reserva, Grand Reserva, etc. The thinking is that the standard Rioja designations are about the ‘process’, and strictly define what course a producer must follow to use the designation on the label. It involves rules on time in barrel and time in bottle, but has no requirements or regard for the sourcing.

In our minds there is nothing inherently wrong with that system. But we also understand the thinking of the new wave of vintners. They are more interested in recognizing villages and individual estates for their terroirs and being free to make the wines however they see fit for their vineyards without regard to structured rules about barrel time and bottling. There are some pretty loud voices supporting that stance, among them the likes of Telmo Rodriguez and Juan-Carlos López de Lacalle of Artadi. Arturo di Miguel is in that camp.

As we were presented these wines for the first time, the focus of the information seemed to be centered on the two site-specific bottlings, Paso de las Manas and Finca de los Locos. They were just fine but that day the show was stolen by the Artuke Rioja Pies Negros 2019, a remarkably expressive, engaging, high quality effort at a surprising price given the quality. Pies Negros is Spanish for ‘black feet’, a reference to the foot-trodding that is part of this wine’s upbringing.

The source here are high altitude vineyards tucked just below the Sierra Cantabria Mountains in Rioja Alta village of Abalos at about 1900-foot elevation. The blend here is 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano that are de-stemmed and, yes, foot-trodden. Maceration in stainless steel is followed by a 12-14 month sojourn in 80% French and 20% American oak barrels, second and third fill.

Visually this is rather dark in color as Riojas go. The nose showcases deep, dark, very pure cherry fruit that hits with almost laser-like precision. Plush, layered, polished, this wine looks and tastes like something costing twice the price and possesses a depth and freshness that is kind of uncommon for the genre. The purveyor’s ‘pitch’ was ‘serious wine at a not so serious price,’ which in this case is entirely accurate.

We taste a lot of Spanish wines and it isn’t easy to surprise us, but the Pies Negros had a unique personality and a very engaging demeanor that took us a little off-guard. How could something this compelling only cost twenty bucks!? Even within the context of Spanish value, this one is a notch above.

Curiously, with regard to press, the Wine Advocate has followed the winery and said very nice things about the 2017 Pies Negros (92 points), the 2018 (93 points), and the 2020 (92+ points). But Luis Gutierrez did not taste the 2019s, (other than the already bottled entry level which got 90 points) because they were not yet bottled. Too bad since 2019, considered outstanding by the Riojanos, is by far the best vintage of the group. It would likely score higher. Guess it’s still under the radar which is fine by us. A serious new name in Rioja.

‘THE BUNNY’ IS BACK PLUS OTHER VALUE CAB NOTES…

First, we’ll reiterate our broad massage. Thanks to the wildfires in Napa in 2020, there will be a lot less Cabernet on the market thanks to the residual smoke taint that affected the later-ripening Cabernet grapes. A lot of wineries simply did not produces Cabernet from the vintage, and were sure the juice is out there somewhere cleaned up in someone’s blend. That said, we suggest people be more attuned to the wines that are currently available, from prior, non-tainted (and actually quite good) vintages,

First up is the Coniglio Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, affectionately called ‘the Bunny’ around here (coniglio is the Italian word for ‘rabbit’). This winery has been a repeated feature over the years as they wind down what we presume are suspended operations. This family winery has favored a rich, well oaked style Cabernet for as long as we have dealt with them … a rich, savory, full-throttle mouthful that begs for some grilled beef.

The Coniglio Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2015 is all could you could ask of a Napa Cab. The nose speaks of spicy oak and a fruit component that centers on cassis and mulberry spice and a direct, full throttle approach. We’ve sold many manifestations over the years that are usually district focused. This one, from a respected and historic district, off the Silverado Trail has the structure one expects from mountain vineyards, yet it is approachable and enjoyable now. It bears that family resemblance to all of the Coniglio Cabs we have sold in the past…full flavored, well seasoned with French oak and with loads of character. It carries a $70 list price on their website but, because of our long term relationship, we can sell you this delicious Napa Cabernet, with bottle age, for a lot less ($32.98). The timing couldn’t be better.

The wines of Rowland Cellars in the Napa Valley (Ramspeck, Cenay, Rowland) aren’t widely known, but they have been on our radar for a long time and we have tasted a number of offerings over the years. They are always solid with the occasional ‘hit’. The Ramspeck Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019 really hit the spot, a particularly timely effort given the current outlook for Napa Cabernet. WInemaker/owner Gerry Rowland is Australian born and got his degree at the prestigious Roseworthy College in Adelaide. Plump, honest, pure varietal black fruits laced with some spice and flacks of minerality, this is a pleasing, round, user-friendly Napa Cab at a great price ($26.98).

Just a reminder, we got in the last bits of the Thread Feather Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District 2019. The Thread Feather lineup, from the obvious well-connected negociant firm Flight Wine Company. To quote ourselves from an earlier email, “Simply put, this wine blew us away, and you know we don’t say that kind of thing all that often. We’ve had plenty of top-end, ‘reserve’ bottlings from Stag’s Leap wineries at three to five times the price that don’t deliver this much character and joy. A gorgeous, hedonistic Cabernet even in its impetuous youth, at $39.98, you’ll feel like you got away with something that was mismarked.”

Finally, as an early warning, you’re likely to see an email pretty soon on the Marietta Cabernet Sauvignon Arme 2019. The ‘Brothers Balbro’ are in quite the groove right now, churning out one jaw dropping value after another. You might recall their highly reviewed 2018 Cabernet Arte from last year and their 95-point Old Vine Red from very recently. Well their 2019 Cabernet Sauvingnon Arte finished in the money again. From Wine Advocate, ” The 2019 Armé Cabernet Sauvignon has a medium ruby-purple color and layered aromas of red and black currants, violet, iron, underbrush and mushrooms. The medium-bodied palate is pleasantly rustic and a touch chewy, with bright acidity, pretty floral perfume and an earth-laced finish…94 Points.” From Sonoma, only $24.98.

SPARKLING NEWS

We’ve been fans of the unique Champagne styles of Henri Giraud and mentioned their reappearance after a long absence from the marketplace as we talked about their delicious entry-level Henri Giraud Brut Esprit Nature. They put a couple of really interesting higher end efforts on the table this week that deserved their own attention.

The Henri Giraud Brut Hommage Au Pinot Noir NV is 100% Pinot Noir done in an unusual style that sees eleven months in oak followed by six months in tank, an approach that is much more common for white Burgundy. According to Antonio Galloni, “In fact, I have never seen this élevage in Champagne. No matter, though, it all works.” That it does. There’s plenty of savory red fruit to behold, ripe plum skin and dark cherry, and plenty going on with the weight on the palate, silky mousse, and notes of spice. Lifted and fresh, it also gives you some of that vinous character that suggest this could play nicely with a number of dishes. We took an immediate liking to it and thought the style, flair, and distinctiveness of this bubbly more than justified the tab.

Speaking of Champagnes with oak, we had the great fortune to revisit the wine that started it all with us all those years ago. The Henri Giraud Brut Grand Cru Fut de Chene MV 16 gets plenty of attention from the wine media with this version garnering a James Suckling 97, Antonio Galloni 97 and Wine Advocate 95. But it really is ‘all that’ with the 70% new oak creaming out the mid-palate in such a seductive way, the mousse so fine and silky and the finish a bit longer and more complex thanks to the process. A lot of folks don’t know this distinctive bubbly yet because it hasn’t been on the market that long and doesn’t have a ‘marketing team’ behind it like the ‘big brands’. There’s a few folks out there trying to marketing expensive, not that great Champagne with gimmicks and over the top packaging. This, however, is the real deal and we’ll put it up against any Grande Marque. Delicious.

On the other end of the price spectrum, we’ve gotten the newest version of the ‘who says you can’t buy French Champagne for under $20?’, the
Champagne Gouet-Henry Brut NV . It’s a blend of 50% Pinot Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay done in a clean, fruit-driven style. You’ll probably be seeing an email on this in short order but here’s an early warning. Yes, real Champagne, that tastes like real Champagne, for $19.98.

ANOTHER CAPTIVATING 2019 VOSNE ROMANEE

First we’ll again make the point that, while we know our way around Burgundy pretty well, it isn’t necessarily our mission to focus on higher end fare. We are more the guys who look first for that diamond in the rough that doesn’t cost a car payment to purchase and plays above its station. But every so often we run across one of those ‘must have’ bottles that’s approaching three-digit price territory. Vosne Romanee is expensive real estate anyway and the produce from here is among the most sought after and highest priced. So something like this, that exhibits the personality of the village so eloquently, is very desirable. This version also comes from a source that has an exceptional track record for engaging reds which is even more important in a great vintage like 2019. Though most Burgundy fans know this, here’s a brief ditty on the producer. Maison Camille Giroud ranks among the most venerable boutique négociants in Burgundy. Founded in 1865, Giroud earned an impeccable reputation over the last 150 years as a specialist in traditional vins de garde. In 2001, Giroud was acquired by a group of investment bankers led by wine collector Joe Wender and his wife, Napa cult vintner Ann Colgin. They hired wunderkind David Croix not only to manage the distinguished cellar but also to begin acquiring grapes and making first-class wines. Croix accomplished this goal with flying colors and has now been succeeded by the highly-talented Carel Voorhuis. The Les Chalandins is located on the Flagey-Echezeaux side of the village at an altitude of 245 meters on a hill that faces south-east and extends up to the lower part of Clos Vougeout. It sits on deep clay-silt soil laid atop the marl of Bresse. Barrel notes from Neal Martin of Vinous tell the story, “The 2019 Vosne Romanee Les Chalandins is matured with just under 50% whole cluster and 20% new oak. It ha a well-defined bouquet of brambly fruit, rose petal. and crushed rock aromas. The palate is medium bodied with supple tannins, a rounded texture and a harmonious silky smooth finish. A lovely wine from Camille Giroud...90-92 points.” Nice cellar notes from Burghound as well from a year and a half ago, “A spicy and very Vosne-like nose freely offers up its aromas of black pinot fruit, plum, hoisin and exotic tea. The suave and highly seductive flavors coat the palate with sappy dry extract while the finish displays focused power on the mildly warm finale. This needs to develop more depth but it should be able to do so if allowed a few years of cellaring.” The scores are pretty strong considering the ‘hierarchy’ as these folks make a lot of wines and a number of Grand and Premier Crus. The Camille Giroud Vosne Romanee Les Chalandins 2019 is everything you could want from this part of the world. That layered, super-spiced red cherry fruit that is distinct to this village, that lush yet suave, nuanced palate, it’s all here in an engaging style that should age nicely as well, though like most 2019s it is quite pleasing already.

TASTY BARGAIN SUMMER QUAFFERS FROM PORTUGAL

We aren’t going to write one of our epic tales here. There aren’t any rock star winemakers, famous vineyards, or legendary reviews here. We’re just going to say a few words about a couple of low-priced, delicious quaffers for holiday weekends and summer in general. When it comes to delightful, bright casual quaffers, the Portuguese are a great source.

Muralhas de Moncao has been a regular player for quite some time. Their newest release, the Muralhas de Moncao Vinho Verde Moncao e Melgaco 2021 is everything you could ask for in a casual summer sipper. Bright nose of tropical fruit and floral notes, lifted presentation of white stone fruits and spices, a little impression of fizz, this is clean, refreshing, but also has enough body to engage serious wine folk. A blend of 85% Alvarinho (we have also sold their varietal Alvarinho) and 15% Trajadura, 12.5% ABV, it doesn’t pretend to be a wine to contemplate but it serves its purpose well.

What we had not seen, and which was a welcome addition to this easy drinking lineup, was the Muralhas de Moncao Vinho Verde Rose Moncao e Melgaco 2021. An inviting rosy pink, this has the some kind of QQ (‘quaffabilty quotient’) as its white Vinho Verde stablemate, fresh, lively, light on its feet, but the flavor profile suggests more strawberry and fresh melon. A blend of Alvarelhao, Pedral, and Vinhao, all indigenous red grapes. With an ABV of 11%, it is a great choice chilled for warm day outdoors. A faint impression of sweetness it has the cut to be food friendly as well.

LEO STEEN, EURO SENSIBILTY IN CALIFORNIA

Leo Hansen was born and raised in Denmark to a father that was a chef and hotelier. So food and wine have always been a part of his life. Leo’s first career was as a sommelier in some of Europe’s best restaurants including Kong Hans, Copenhagen’s first one-star Michelin guide restaurant. Having caught the wine bug, Leo came to the United States in 1999 to check out the food and wine scene, and never went back!

He migrated to the Sonoma wine country, and worked as a waiter and sommelier and, ultimately, a wine buyer at the wine-centric Dry Creek Kitchen and Cyrus restaurants in Healdsburg. He later began working at Stuhmuller winery in the Alexander Valley, and started making a bit of his own wine, at the Stuhlmuller facilities, in 2004.

From his years as a buyer, he noticed there was a decided lack of food-friendly, energetic wines from California. So, it was fitting that the centerpiece of Leo’s winemaking efforts was a bone-dry Chenin Blanc. Steen is also his family’s middle name and it is also what South African call Chenin Blanc.

We met Leo Hansen recently along with his latest releases. While Leo has reputation for Chenin Blanc (he makes three different bottlings), on this day those were not what got our attention. We sense vineyard selection plays a big part here. Leo has a bit of range and works with sites all over the state and we were surprised by a Chardonnay from Santa Cruz and a Grenache Rose from single biodynamic site near Kenwood that made for distinctive additions to our carefully curated lineup. Though they are food friendly, the style here isn’t the usual ‘lean and mean’, sommelier-torture ‘food’ wines. There’s depth, character, and pleasure here.

The 2019 Leo Steen Chardonnay Santa Cruz Mountains Bruzzone Vineyard comes from a single vineyard located in the southern hills of Scotts Valley, just four miles from the town of Santa Cruz and the Pacific Ocean. The dry-farmed Chardonnay vines on this site were planted in 1998, in sandy soils rich in marine deposits. Surrounded by forests, and featuring a north-south row orientation, these vines yield small, tiny-berried clusters. While this is a very cool vineyard that produces grapes with great acidity, the fruit also achieves lovely ripeness at low sugar levels.

The resulting Chardonnay impressed us as a slightly earthier version of a white Burugundy with some notes that reminded us of something from Mount Eden. Apple, pear, spice, and finishing salinity, there was plenty of flavor but also fine delineation provided by the acidity. Leo is clearly a Euro-palate and typically so are we, so this sneaky little gem was right in our wheelhouse. Deceptive complexity here, a distinctive profile and a very fair fare made it an easy call. Only 265 cases produced.

The Leo Steen Rose of Grenache Sonoma Valley Rose Ranch 2021 comes from the Rose Vineyard at the base of Sugarloaf not far from Kenwood in Sonoma Valley. Sugarloaf is an extinct volcano and this vineyard, made up mainly of clay laced with lava, has been farmed biodynamically since the 1990s. One of our complaint about domestic rose (besides that there are way to many of them) is that they are often blowsy and alcoholic.

Here again Leo’s ‘euro’ sensibilities, and the long, cool growing season of 2021, created a distinctive combination of berries, floral notes and a touch of minerality sitting atop fresh acidity that kept everything humming along. It was a surprising effort from a California vineyard, with purity of fruit and the brightness that is imperative in good rose. It can play alone or pair well with nibbles, gilled fish, and other lighter handed fare.

SOMETHING OLD, SOMETHING NEW FROM THE CAPE

South Africa isn’t new to wine, having started viticulture somewhere around the 1630s. It isn’t new to us either as we started to explore the wines soon post apartheid. A lot of folks have given them a spin and it’s hard for us to know where to start. There are people out there open to the idea while others still think about the parochial bottlings with very aggressive flavors that pushed them in another direction.

It probably isn’t news for us to tell you that there are some exciting things going on down there. Current favorites include the Tania and Vincent Careme Terre Brulee Chenin Blanc Swartland 2020 from Loire maestro Vincent Careme. We’d had consistent good luck with Chenin from this part of the world and you can find some very tasty examples like this one for under $10.

Recently we were reacquainted with a high performing, well priced Sauvignon Blanc under the Bayten label. This wine achieved ‘legendary’ status under a different moniker, Buitenverwachting, as a multiple 90 point scorer and a Spectator Top 100 or 2 along the way. Classic Cape Sauvignon at a great price.

We hadn’t seen it in a while and found they had gone through a couple of changes. Now in a different shaped bottle under the name Bayten Sauvignon Blanc Constantia 2020 (with the intimidating Afrikaner name, Buitenverwachting, reduced to small, light print) it soldiers on doing exactly what it has always done…providing a sleek, delicious, well-priced option in Sauv. Blanc. Bright and lively from the get-go, it delivers a good blast of tropical fruit and grapefruit with well infused minerality. Clean, driving and a bargain at this price, like the good old days but easier to say.

Speaking of transplants, we had not seen the Topiary Chardonnay Franschhoek Valley South Africa 2019, a complex and fresh wooded Chardonnay in a Burgundian style made by Philippe Colin (yes, that Philippe Colin). The purveyor told us that Philippe was in the process of retiring and moving here permanently. If he can make things like this at this kind of price, we’re all for it.

The grapes are handpicked early in the morning to retain freshness, the must is settled and the alcoholic fermentation starts with wild yeasts in a stainless steel tank for 1 week, before to be transferred into 450L (double a traditional barrique) Rousseau Piano oaks (French). Then, the malolactic fermentation is done naturally during the following 12 months with batonnage (lees stirring) done every 2 weeks. There’s definitely a Burgundy spin to the apple, spice and toast flavors, and a more ‘old school’ (like before global warming) snap of underlying acidity.

SPECIAL PURCHASE, MACON NOSTALGIA

Like the song says, ‘every day is a winding road.’ We’re old enough to remember when it wasn’t unusual to find a knockout Macon for this kind of price. But that was a long time ago. In fact, with all of the new Premier Cru things happening in the Macon, prices are going the other way. That’s what makes this Macon buy not only special, but in a way kind of nostalgic. Meanwhile this ripping Macon deal was brought about by events.

Founded in 1989, Domaine Catherine & Didier Tripoz is located in the southern part of the Mâcon appellation, with an area of about 13 ha (about 32 acres) planted mainly with Chardonnay as you would expect. The age of the vines is between 20 and 65 years, averaging about 45 years-of-age. As of 2018, they have converted to organic farming.

Fast forward some three decades, and Catherine and Didier have decided to retire. They are selling the domaine and were liquidating their existing stocks. An importer we know was ‘johnny on the spot’ and snapped up a great portion of their remaining wines, which were predominantly from the very good 2019 and excellent 2020 vintages.

You can bet this would have been a full-blown email except that we didn’t quite have enough wine to do that because some of our shrewder buyers have been nibbling on the stocks for a while. Still, it was time to mention the Domaine Catherine & Didier Tripoz Macon Charnay Clos des Tournons 2020 (‘Clos des Tournons’ is a monopole, meaning that the Tripoz family owns the entire parcel). This will give a hint to a few new folks and be fair warning to those that have already discovered this little gem that it’s one and done.

This Macon has a real ‘old school’ feel to it. The wine shows floral notes, crisp apple, pear and citrus in the nose. The palate has bright apple, pear and a touch of citrus fruit, a surprising depth and intensity to the palate with notes of stone and faintly honeyed notes to the finish. From top to bottom the is plenty of underlying, as one taster called it ‘crackling’ acidity and a nice snap of minerality. The crisp profile, and the price ($13.98!), reminds us pleasantly of ‘days of yore’ before global warming. Right place, time, an exceptional buy…while it lasts.

FINALLY SOME PINK TALK

Yeah, we’ve talked about supply chain and all of that, but we’ve finally accumulated a lovely crop of 2021 roses. Here are some hightlights…

Mirabeau Cotes de Provence Rosé 2021-One of those made for TV type stories where Stephen and Jeany Cronk move their family from south London to Provence with the goal of establishing a successful winery. The happy ending was the Mirabeau wines, a collection of several roses that have garnered international attention. Domaine Mirabeau is a 20 hectare estate which includes 14 hectares of AOP Côtes de Provence vines plus they have established relationships with other premium growers in the region. This is the delightful entry level effort, a blend of 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache, that captures the delicate nature of Provence rose with delicate but outgoing berry fruit with floral and spice tones.

Mas de Cadenet Cotes de Provence Ste. Victoire Rosé 2021-The key to Provencal rose is expressive fruit that is at the same time delicate. This wine reflects the calcerous soils of the area of Ste. Victoire. Inviting pale pink, nose of both berry and white stone fruits, crisp lift to the finish, this is another complete version of the genre that’s engaging but supremely light on its feet. A blend of 45% Grenache, 45% Cinsault, and 10% Syrah.

Clos Cibonne Cotes de Provence Rosé Tentations 2021-A new (to us) version from this long time favorite Clos Cibonne whose rose based on the rare Tibouren grape is a consistent favorite around here. That botting is, like Domaine Tempier (in quality not necessarily style), is now in the $40+ range (well worth it we might add), making this more ‘popularly price’ effort a welcome addition. While featuring younger vined Tibouren (15%), Tentations also has 50% Grenache, 20% Cinsault and 15% Syrah in the mix grown by farmers with whom the Deforges family has long-standing relationships, working in prime spots in the villages of La Crau and Carqueiranne. Bottled with a screw cap, this is a fresh, delicate, tasty rose where the flavor range is expanded a bit by the mineral/earthy Tibouren. Very food friendly and also vegan friendly.

Cavalchina Bardolino Chiaretto Rosato 2021– The Cavalchina folks are shining stars in a region that is largely uninspired. The Chiaretto (key-ar-et-to) is what they call their rosé and it here it is made as a rosé rather than as a ‘bleed’ from the red wine. That helps retain this juicy wine’s its vibrant acidity. Made from the classic grapes of Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara (some as Valpolicella) this is full of lively berry and citrus flavors. This is a winery that has been around since 1948 and Vinous Media’s Ian D’Agata calls them, “…a recognized master in the making of Chiarettos.” This is also the fourth vintage in a row we have carried this delightful, crowd pleasing pink.

Raul Perez Leon Rosado Arrotos del Pendon 2021– Made from 100% Prieto Picudo from very old vines in stony clay at high altitude (800m ASL). The grapes were macerated for two days on the skins before bleeding off, fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, raised on the fine lees for four months in tank, bottled without fining or filtration. The extended maceration would explain the deeper color and give you a clue that this is a ‘pink’ with an attitude more of a red wine. Dark berries, some minerality, more ‘vinuous’ than most roses, if there was a rose on the shelf that could stand up to grilled meats, this is it. Distinctive and delicious.

Commanderie de la Bargemone Coteaux d’Aix en Provence Rosé 2021-Bargemone is another label that has been with us for many seasons, and the 2021 is on point again as one of the best values from this region. Definitely more of a red berry feel to the profile here, a bit more midpalate weight (as pinks go) and . Older vines (30 year average) and a different mix of grapes (40% Grenache, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cinsault…Cabernet not a common ingredient around these parts). Organic farming here, this one shows dark berries and yellow melon, a little spice, pepper, and florality in the nose and always a really palatable price.