Wines

This is another stellar set of Champagne from Christophe Baron. The 2018s are simply lights out. Readers will note the addition of a new wine in this range, the Closeaux, which rounds out the collection of four pure Meunier Champagnes, all bottled in magnum only. Mignon and his cousins practice a decidedly Burgundian approach to winemaking. The wines are fermented in 600L Taransaud demi-muids (25% new), with heavy lees stirring, an approach Baron favors for building the wines, especially on the mid-palate and that allows for bottling with no dosage. As for 2018, Baron calls it a typical modern vintage for Champagne marked by climate change. “You better get used to it, because this is the future!” he told me emphatically. - Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

This is another stellar set of Champagne from Christophe Baron. The 2018s are simply lights out. Readers will note the addition of a new wine in this range, the Closeaux, which rounds out the collection of four pure Meunier Champagnes, all bottled in magnum only. Mignon and his cousins practice a decidedly Burgundian approach to winemaking. The wines are fermented in 600L Taransaud demi-muids (25% new), with heavy lees stirring, an approach Baron favors for building the wines, especially on the mid-palate and that allows for bottling with no dosage. As for 2018, Baron calls it a typical modern vintage for Champagne marked by climate change. “You better get used to it, because this is the future!” he told me emphatically. - Antoni Galloni, Vinous Media

97 Points! This is so complex, with lifting citrus and herb undertones to the blue and red berry fruit. Thyme, sage and lavender, with mocha and clove, too. Full-bodied, full of depth and intensity, with firm yet seamless tannins. Evolves to espresso. Balanced, powerful and very long. - JamesSuckling.com

96 Points! A special single-vineyard wine with origins in one of the more remote, wild and beautiful corners of Montalcino, this is one of the true treats of the appellation. The Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona 2018 Brunello di Montalcino Pianrosso opens to a medium-rich appearance and vibrant color saturation. Sangiovese can lose its color quickly, but it remains beautifully intact here. Sweet cherry, redcurrant, spice, blue flower, balsam herb and orange peel are neatly woven together to create this balanced wine. Fruit is sourced from across a 11.7-hectare vineyard with schistous galestro soils. - Monica Larner, robertparker.com

98 Points! Intense, vibrant aromas of strawberries and raspberries, together with cola and flowery notes. Milk and mint nuances, too. Shows a lot of licorice elegance and blood-orange freshness on both the nose and palate with firm, velvety tannins and well-packed, brilliant acidity and a polished finish. Good aftertaste and amazing potential. Very classic. Drinkable now, but best from 2025. - JamesSuckling.com

98 Points! Enticing aromas of red cherries, dried strawberries and hints of plums, cedar, sandalwood and balsamic. Medium-bodied with a tight and rich center palate and a chewy and powerful finish. This needs time to come together and soften slightly. - JamesSuckling.com

97 Points! Aromas of new leather, spiced black plum, violet and camphor unfold on the bold and beautiful 2021 Brunello Pianrosso. Combining power and restraint, the full-bodied palate delivers layers of ripe Morello cherry, raspberry jam, licorice and fine tobacco blend before a spiced orange zest close. Velvety, enveloping tannins provide seamless support. - Kerin O'Keefe

Some impressive sourcing for this incredible 'value' Chardonnay, with fruit coming from Eden Rift and Gimelli Vineyards, two VERY respected sites in the, you guessed it, Cienega Valley. Both vineyards produce a multitude of $50+ dollar wines so to see this one at this price? Amazing!

Some impressive sourcing for this incredible 'value' Pinot Noir, with fruit coming from Eden Rift and Gimelli Vineyards, two VERY respected sites in the, you guessed it, Cienega Valley. Both vineyards produce a multitude of $50+ dollar wines so to see this one at this price? Amazing!

From the importer: The ‘BruEmm' is a single vineyard bottling of Falanghina Beneventana (there are two different kinds of Falanghina) from a vineyard that Ciro Picariello farms near Benevento, about 30 minutes drive from the cellar. The wine is named for his children, Bruno and Emma. Notes of apple and lemon zest, with a strong mineral character, great complexity, and a very long finish. Pairs with all kinds of seafood or roasted light meats.

From the importer: 

Originally, Ciro produced only Fiano because the vineyards he bought were planted only with that variety. A few years ago he started making Greco from a rented vineyard, a vineyard that he is now renting and farming himself. The soil is a sandy clay of volcanic origin called tuff, or 'tufo' in Italian (but the name of the appellation refers not to the soil, but to the village of Tufo, which is not far from Avellino). Chunks of pure sulfur can sometimes be found in the vineyard.

Picariello's Greco is made similarly to his Fiano, although the must is pressed more quickly to avoid oxidation. Ciro tells me that Greco can age like Fiano; given that he started making Greco more recently, I haven't had the chance to test this for myself, but the first Picariello wine I ever tasted was a ten-year-old bottle of Fiano di Avellino that knocked my socks off, so I have no reason to doubt it. My sense is that Ciro is getting better with this variety; I clearly preferred the Fiano when we first started working together, but the Greco is excellent white wine, savory, very minerally, long and complex. Ciro's description: 'orange blossom, citrus peel, melon.' 

93 Points! The Corpinnat sparkling white 2023 Lucidity is their youngest sparkling wine, produced with Xarel.lo and Macabeu from four different plots—there was less Macabeo in 2023—on limestone of marine origin. It fermented by plot in stainless steel and 300-liter French oak barrels, where the wine was kept with the lees for 11 months, until it was put in bottle to referment. It's a Mediterranean sparkler with energy, structure and freshness, though it has ripeness. It's aromatic, with notes of herbs and even some traces of red fruit, and the palate is a lot sharper and very tasty, with a slate-like, tasty and bone-dry finish and small bubbles that give it texture. It was put in bottle in July 2024 and disgorged in January 2026, after 18 months with the lees. It comes in at 12% alcohol, with a pH of 3.02 and 6.1 grams of acidity. It's very impressive for an entry-level wine. - Luis Gutierrez, robertparker.com

Stellar new release from 'Cava country' in Spain. Xarel-Lo & Macabeu from deep marine-limestone bedrock beneath limestone-clay topsoil. Whole-bunch pressed at low pressure, racked lightly preserving the fine solids. Fermented in stainless steel & 300L french oak barrels. Aged in barrel & tank sur lie for 11 months prior to tirage. Aged in bottle on the lees for 18 months, prior to disgorgement. Zero dosage, zero sulfur added, topped with the same wine.

96+ Points! I loved the 2019 Pinot Noir Garys' Vineyard. It's a rich, backward, relatively closed wine that's going to blossom with another 2-3 years of bottle age. Giving up Gevrey-Chambertin like notes of smoked black fruits, pomegranate, violets, spiced meats, iron, and leafy herbs, it's medium to full-bodied and has a beautiful mid-palate, building tannins, and a solid spine of acidity. It has plenty of ripeness and is certainly a California Pinot Noir, with beautiful fruit and purity. It needs a healthy decant if drinking any time soon, and it's going to hit prime time in another 2-4 years and have a solid decade of prime drinking. It's a gorgeous wine. - Jeb Dunnuck

Dugat's 2022 Bourgogne delivers aromas of sweet cherries, berries and petals, followed by a medium-bodied, bright and precise palate that's vibrant and mouthwatering. William Kelley, robertparker.com, Jan 2024 

A super-fresh and bright red pinot fruit nose is cut with discreet earth nuances that are reflected on the delicious if not especially dense flavors that possess both fine cut and punch before concluding in a saline-suffused and refreshing finale where a touch of rusticity appears. - Allen Meadows, Burghound, Jan 2025 

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Village presents a pretty nose with a mixture of blackcurrant and raspberry fruit. Well defined with nicely integrated oak, it conveys a sense of transparency. Fine tannins frame the palate, offering raspberry and strawberry fruit with a dash of spice on the finish, which is more structured than I expected. Delightful. - Neal Martin, Vinous Media

A slightly riper nose freely offers up its array of plum, dark currant and more prominent earth influence. There is more size and weight, if not necessary better density, to the sappy, dusty and complex finale that is noticeably firmer. This is a lovely Gevrey villages and worth considering. - Allen Meadows, Burghound, Jan 2025 

Most of the fruit in this Bourgogne Blanc comes from the area of Charnay,  just  North  of  Pouilly. This is 100% Chardonnay, vinified in stainless steel tanks. High-toned aromatics of calcaire, apple and pear skin. In the mouth the wine is vibrant  and fresh, with good tension and very fruit-driven: lemon oil, tangerine, smoke, wet chalky stones.

A single plot of land, but two different age vines (60 and 80 years!), gives this wine a consistent character, made up of ripe fruit aromas and very soft tannins. Les Epenottes referred to places where thorns and thorny bushes grew. The vineyard borders Pommard Epenots to the south of Beaune, where the deep marl and surface silt allow Pinot Noir to demonstrate its beautiful breadth of flavor and express its power.

A massal selection of Dolcetto carved out from their other two Dolcetto vineyards. After fermenting it in steel, it is also aged about 10 months there, to make it even more intense and solid. The palate is of the highest level, capable of sustaining any gastronomic pairing with elegance and pleasantness.