JOSEPH SWAN VINEYARDS PINOT NOIR TRENTON ESTATE VINEYARD 2013
Historically, this is one of those labels where we never really ‘got it’. The reputation of Joseph Swan has been exalted for pretty much our entire time in the wine business. But perhaps because history doesn’t really matter to us when it comes to purchasing, only what’s in the glass, we have not been big fans. A lot of the wines were a bit too, um, ‘exotic’. Maybe we had the misfortune to have them all on ‘root days’ (arguably before anyone knew what that was). But we never understood why the ‘old timers’ spoke of the label in such glowing terms, and presumably never tasted the wines that generated such a buzz back in the day.
It is with that history, and with full knowledge of the fact that a number of people will simply tune out as we are pitching a $70 Pinot with a 91 point score, we say that the Joseph Swan Vineyards Pinot Noir Trenton Estate Vineyard 2013 is bloody amazing. We kept tasting this and looking at each other with the expression, ‘is this really that good?’. The answer is, “heck yeah!” It is one of the best Pinots we have tasted from anywhere this year, and we have been tasting 2015 Burgundies among other things.
Apparently the 40th vintage of this wine, it shows deft winemaking in its unfettered purity, haunting, subtle spice and anise tones to the deep dark red and blue fruits, refined tannins and just the right touch of acidity to make the wine pop on the palate. If you are looking for some sweet, gooey ‘jamball’, this is not that. It is instead a very focused, refined and harmonious expression of Russian River Pinot that can play alongside anything.
It isn’t ‘big’ as that is defined these days. But it is deep and expressive, simply a gorgeous effort that made us reconsider our position on this producer. We must, in all fairness, give some of the credit to 2013, one of the most impressive vintages we have ever had from California. It was also one that was particularly kind to Pinot, giving the wines an unusual depth and power while maintaining balance.
Lisa Perotti-Brown’s description, while accurate and complimentary enough, sounds a little clinical, “The 2013 Pinot Noir Trenton Estate Vineyard presents a pale to medium ruby color and tar and asphalt-led nose, opening out to a core of raspberry preserves, red currant jelly and licorice, plus a waft of underbrush. Full-bodied, rich and powerful in the mouth, it gives mouth-filling berry preserves and anise flavors with a chewy backbone and a long, fruity finish.”
The score and the rhetoric, while pretty good for her, simply doesn’t convey our level of enthusiasm. Maybe she had it on a ‘root day’. In any case, this is a serious, layered bottle of Pinot that deserves equally serious attention. There are lots of other wines that would be easier sells, but this one is very special, and maybe something of a game-changer for us….$69.99