The more we find out about this Sud-Tirol producer, the more impressed we are. We are big fans of the whites from these pristine sites nestled near the Alps, which we lovingly refer to as the German part of Italy. Sparkling high valleys, clean air, unique ad varied soils, we dare say that when Nature cooperates, these are some of the most riveting whites anywhere. Margreid has been one of the standard bearers for the region since we first ran across his precise wines maybe three vintages back. The rest, as they say, is history, though this latest set of releases kind of border on ‘historic from the standpoint of excelling true to the region.
If you like big, buttery Chardonnays, these will not be your muse. But if you fancy driving fruit delivered atop vigorous, fresh acidity, clean, pure flavors and superb integration, your Schiff has com in. We were recently presented with this lineup from Margrein, featuring efforts from the 2016 vintage (which has been enormously exciting in this region) and we couldn’t help buy everything we were presented. This ‘triple play’ was quite a show!
The thing is that these perform nearly perfectly for what they are intended to be. It isn’t a genre that gets a lot of attention, nor are these the kind of wines that will play to the typical media palate. But the execution for our tastes is so impressive, we find talking them up an imperative even if it is for a small, select audience. How excited can we get about Kerner, Pinot Grigio and Schiava? If they taste like this, pretty darned excited! And the prices are very modest for wines this good.
Nals Margreid Kerner Sudtirol Alto Adige 2016– While this aromatic white grape, first created in Germany in 1929 as a hybrid between Schiava and Riesling, is something of an also-ran in its native country, on this side of the hills it hits remarkable heights. The exotic fruit component flashes tropical notes, candied citrus, dried peach and honey, yet is bone dry with a trace of salinity. The tension between the fruit and well-integrated acid keeps the flavors lifted and vigorous but there is plenty here to make an impression. Even though it is crisp and nervy, it is packed with flavor.
Nals Margreid Pinot Grigio Sudtirol Alto Adige 2016– One of the most unique and interesting examples of this varietal we can recall. There’s a persistent florality to the nose that grabs you immediately, followed by impressions of pear and apricot that avail themselves as the wine unfolds. Plenty of flesh to make an impression up front followed almost immediately by a fresh underpinning of acidity that drives the fruit through the back-palate. Yes we know that there is a lot of insipid Pinot Grigio on the market. The people who drink those probably wouldn’t like this one because it has waayyy too much character. This is an elite performance because it is loaded with character yet still plays on the racy side as it should.
Nals Margreid Galea Schiava Sudtirol Alto Adige 2016– Schiava anyone? Yes this fresh red is virtually unknown to most folks, mostly functioning as a cool, go-to red in this mountain country. But with a little more ripeness’ the possibilities expand greatly. Here we have the insistent spice of the varietal augmenting a somewhat riper and more tender version of red fruits that lean a little blue. Schiava from a cooler vintage can have a bit of an edge. But somehow, in Goldilocks speak, this one is ‘just right’. Roses, fresh outdoor spiciness, a touch of earth, bright flavors., from century-old vines, it is medium weight and dangerously quaffable. Serve with a slight chill.