‘PRODIGAL’ DEAL: 96 points, for $19.98?

Remelluri has been on our radar since the first ‘Spanish invasion’ in the 90s.  We originally became aware of them through Jorge Ordonez who was the importer at the time.  Two of the WInex team visited the property separately about four years apart on an importer tour and the notes were consistent.  First, it was way up the hill.  Remelluri’s vineyards are located along the slopes of the Sierra de Toloño mountains in the valleys of Valderemelluri, Villaescusa and La Granja  at the highest elevation in the region.

Second, we were treated to something we had never experienced before.  People from the winery brought out bundles of cut grapevines and built a bonfire in the courtyard.  They then took the smoldering sticks, spread them out on the ground and proceeded to cook dinner over them.  It was a great show, the meat was delicious, and the wines were spectacular.  We still remember the event some two decades later, although we have seen this meat-cooked-on-sticks elsewhere in Spain since then.  But you always ‘remember the first time’ and none of that would be relevant if we didn’t really like the wines. 

We were big fans back in the day, though there were some distribution changes and a few wines that were a ‘walk on the wild’ side in the years that followed.   Remelluri became a solid option but not a slam dunk, and then we didn’t see it at all for a while.   Perhaps not entirely coincidentally, one of the emerging hot winemakers of the era, and someone that was followed by enthusiasts thereafter, was a guy named Telmo Rodriguez.  His story, in a sense, is similar to the one we have told about Alvaro Palacios. 

Telmo, like Alvaro, left his Rioja home (Remelluri) to learn and create his own name.  He has achieved something of a ‘rock star’ status among Spanish winemakers, advises on a number of project all over Spain, and has a number of his own labels (Gago, Basa, and Lanzaga among them).  Like Palacios, Telmo Rodriguez has returned to his family’s winery after years of perfecting his craft and gaining international recognition for his winemaking abilities.

The Remelluri Farm itself has origins that date back to the 10th Century, and there are local documents that make account of winemaking here since 1596. Labastida Town Hall has records of pitchers of wine made by the Nuestra Senora de Remelluri Farm for every year up to the last century. The modern winery was established in 1967 when Jaime Rodríguez Salis purchased the vineyards at the heart of the former estate.  Poor, stony soil, with layers of clay help to retain freshness, with the Atlantic influence providing adequate rainfall and lower temperatures than there are in the rest of the region, this is a great environment for Tempranillo.  Remelluri also uses an integrated system of agriculture with great respect for the environment and is currently in the process of gaining organic certification.

With Telmo, of course, comes ‘Telmo’s way’.  He is a great proponent of terroir and terroir based bottlings.  Remelluri’s newest project is Lindes de Remelluri which means “the borders of Remelluri.”   This is one of two specific bottlings now produced, this one from San Vincente and the other from Labastida.  The overall plan is for the sites themselves to be the primary focus, with winemaking, trellising, and even varietal decisions based entirely on the best expression of the vineyard.  We’ll see how that manifests down the road, but in the meantime this current offering is a screamer and, because of our acquisition scenario, a remarkable buy.

The Remelluri Rioja Lindes de Remelluri Vinedos de San Vicente 2014 is a striking Rioja that toes the line between traditional and modern.  You’ve got outgoing, lifted, ripe, insistent plum, currant, and mulberry fruit that exudes freshness but also classic notes of dusty spice and damp earth.  It is simply a beautiful, versatile bottle of Rioja .  James Suckling was pretty taken with it as well writing, “Some richer, darker and deeper fruit character with plums, blackberries and a dark, earthy streak. The tannins are more upright, more elevated, and the fruit is richer and darker than in the Labastida. This has real presence, grip and energy…96 points.”

Because we purchased this in a way that eliminated a good chunk of ‘extra’ markup, we are able to offer this $32 list wine at a substantially lower fare and post one of our best price/review interplays (referred here as ‘the delta) so far this year.  The name is kind of long, as is the story though it is one that needed to be told.  Thanks for reading, but we probably had a lot of folks just with the ‘numbers’ at 96 points for $19.98! We bought all there was but we expect it will fly.  Good hunting and welcome back Remelluri.