Vermentino has many manifestations. There are crisp, high pitched versions that that come from Liguria and other parts of Sardinia that show a little hint of the sea There are the somewhat riper, rounder versions that seems to be popping up from Tuscany, and the somewhat steely versions from southern France (where the grape is called Rolle). We have tasted many versions of all of them, but we can’t say we ever had one like this.
This is from a unique spot, situated on Cap Corse, a finger-like peninsula on the northern coast of Corsica. that juts northward into the Tyrrhenian Sea. This rugged area is a distinctive display of seascapes and vineyards. Located on the coast near the village of Rogliano, Clos Nicrosi has been cared for by the same family since 1859. The story goes that one Dominique Nicrosi left the island penniless, made his fortune in the southern U.S. (Alabama to be specific), and then left the U.S. because of the coming winds of the Civil War.
Upon returning to Corsica, he bought a mansion on the coast that had some vineyards which he renamed Clos Nicrosi. His grandson, Toussaint Luigi, took over the estate a century later. The wine was ‘discovered’ and presented to the world thanks to a ‘scouting’trip’ led by Jean-Marie Peynaud (son of Lucien Peyraud of Domaine Tempier) and Kermit Lynch. It was this wine that proved to importer Lynch that all of Corsica wasn’t just a bunch of nice vineyards producing rustic ‘plonk’.
Apparently Luigi’s wines enjoyed great popularity on the island, but were virtually unknown anywhere else. The rest, as they say, is history. Clos Nicorsi is now farmed by the next generations, Jean-Noël Luigi, along with his daughter, Marine, and son, Sébastien. They farm 20 hectares of vines, half of which is located on the Cap Corse itself.
The Clos Nicorsi Coteaux du Cap Corse Blanc 2016 is made with 100% Vermentino from 15-20 year-old vines planted in shale soils from the Cap itself. They do all the right things in the vineyard and in the cellar including controlled yields, hand harvesting and direct pressing. The fermentation happens in thermo-regulated steel tanks with only native yeasts.
The Clos Nicorsi has the brightness, lift, salinity and minerality that connects it with all of the other manifestations of Vermentino. Where it differs is in size, mid-palate volume, and palate authority. This one has a more substantial mouthfeel, more like a Chateauneuf Blanc, but with the lilting spice notes of Vermentino and a certain subtle nuttiness to the flavors that makes this an intriguing drink.
It sure caught us by surprise. A unique and classy rendition of this varietal and a superb choice with fish in particular. It is still well under the radar as evidenced by the fact that we found zero reviews in any of the major publications for any vintage. But this stylish white definitely deserves a wider play.