The Burgundy boats are finally coming in. It has been a tough year for ‘logistics’. As we have been preaching, no matter how you feel about global warming, it has raised the bar substantially in certain, formerly ‘lesser ‘regions in Burgundy. Those terroirs don’t have the historic reputation because they were ‘marginal’ sites that didn’t ripen consistently. Give them a little more heat and the whole equation changes. Areas like Givry, Monthelie, Mercurey, and Marsannay have enjoyed unparalleled success over the last few vintages.
On the northern end of the Cote de Nuits, Marsannay was a region prized mostly for pink wine and is unique in Burgundy for having AOC status for red, white, and pink wines. The producer of this pair of Marsannays, Jean Fournier, dates back to the reign of Louis XIII and the 17th Century. Now at the helm of the domaine is the dynamic young Louis Fournier. He converted his vineyards to organic farming and has been Ecocert certified since 2008. Harvest is completed manually and grapes are hand-sorted to guarantee that the wine is made from only the highest quality fruit. His winemaking is determinedly non-interventionist and honest, and the combination has surely contributed to these intense, expressive wines that are absolutely bursting with bright cherry fruit.
The Jean Fournier Marsannay Clos du Roy 2018 is a showpiece for a vintage that was generally quite good for reds yielding wines of bright, ripe fruits and great harmony. The juice was done in temperature-controlled stainless with native yeasts then aged for one year in 50% 600L and 50% 225L (25% new) oak, then 5-7 months in old 600L barrels. The review from Neal Martin in Vinous tells the story pretty well, “The 2018 Marsannay Clos du Roy has a perfumed bouquet of blackberry and raspberry fruit infused with blood orange and tangerine, playful and quite forward in style. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity. Fresh from the start, with good grip and detail on the finish. Good potential here…90-92 points.”
Jean Fournier Marsannay Les Longueroies 2018 comes from a one hectare plot averaging 40 years of age and has a 2% dollop of old Pinot Beurout (Pinot Blanc) that is permitted to be co-fermented in’ very old Burgundy vineyards’. This one was fermented the same way and then saw 12 months in oak, 50% new. Neal Martin’s notes here were even a touch more enthusiastic, “The 2018 Marsannay Les Longeroies has darker fruit on the nose compared to the Clos du Roy, offering blackberry, hints of tar and a touch of menthol that emerges with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity, and pure in style as it fans out toward the fresh and energetic finish. This is a lovely Marsannay that will give heaps of pleasure…91-93 points.”
These are barrel notes but clearly, from what we’ve tasted, these wines got into the bottle just fine. Even during a period where we are finding a lot to like in Burgundy, these are thrilling examples where everything is ripe, round, bright, and vivid. They demand to be noticed and, thanks to global warming if you will, these ‘little’ appellations are offering up big surprises.