Popular wines in the 70’s sometimes resulted in a negative spin on a the categories at large. Soave, Bardolino, Chenin Blanc, ‘Pink Wines’ in general, all had their purpose but those mass market versions tainted the genres’ images moving forward. One of the unfortunate victims was Lambrusco, typically in those days seen as a fizzy, sweet, often mawkish red. Believe us when we tell you that the Lambruscos we are talking about here bear no resemblance to those Cella/Riunite memories of times gone by. Lambrusco has always had a cadre of more sophisticated wines and were are starting to see more and more of them now. From Central Italy, they have been around for a long time, just not in this market in any significant way.
Bone dry with definite fruit character, these play beautifully with a plate of charcuterie, pasta dishes, and cheeses, to say nothing of drinking them alone where they play like a lower dosage Champagne only with more of a ‘winey’ character and gentler bubbles. Certainly we have to be careful introducing new categories to people but are pretty confident that the duo from Paltrinieri will make our point elegantly.
Paltrinieri Radice Lambrusco di Sorbara 2017 is a visual surprise with its coppery salmon color and crown cap closure. The region is Emilia Romagna and the grape is Sorbara, and the flavors here run to a drier tropical fruit, early season strawberry, and intriguing notes of spice. As a Wine Enthusiast piece states, “One of the wines that put Lambrusco back on the map, this vibrant, linear wine boasts aromas of wild strawberry, violet, red cherry and grapefruit. The aromas carry through to the slightly sparkling, savory palate along with cinnamon and white pepper notes. Crisp acidity lifts the savory finish…93 Points!” A refreshing change of pace, very food friendly, serve chilled, a Suckling 92 as well.
Paltrinieri Leclisse Lambrusco di Sorbara 2017 looks more like what you would expect from Lambrusco but, again, expresses itself with more of a wine personality with small, not overly aggressive bubbles rather than a soft drink kind of mouth feel. Texturally appealing, you get more of the ‘red wine’ feel from this darker version but, more important, you get a unique experience with the berry/citrus flavors and creamy mouth feel. Not a lot of folks write about this sort of thing, yet. But what we did find was most ‘enthusiastic’ from Wine Enthusiast, “…this delicious, stunning wine opens with enticing scents of wild berry, rose petal and citrus. The aromas carry over to the elegant, foaming palate along with juicy strawberry, creamy nectarine, grapefruit and a sprinkling of white pepper. A silky mousse gives it an irresistible texture, while fresh acidity keeps it balanced…94 Points.”